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post #1 of 567 Old 05-28-2007, 08:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Current status:










The theater is fully functional at this point. Still todo:

- bass trap over door
- columns
- wall panels




====================================================

All right, I've been lurking since January and absorbing ideas and inspiration. Now it's time to start my thread. I've been working on the room for 5 months now, so it'll take me a few posts to bring things up to date. I've been snapping pics the whole time.

I want to thank everyone with a 'my home theater build' thread (Sandman, Swithey, etc. More than I can remember or name). Watching you all try different ideas and make mistakes and fix them has made the whole thing a lot less intimidating.

My HT is a conversion of an existing 16x21' 10' ceiling media room put in by the previous owner. That has huge advantages in this case. While I really don't like what he ended up with, and the finish build quality was low everywhere an inspector or the homeowner wouldn't think to look, the structure was a great starting point. The room was built into attic space reserved for a 'future room'. The floor of this room rides on long 2x8's that are suspended about 4" above the 2x6 ceiling of the rooms below. The ceiling of the rooms below (master closet and laundry room) have the original blown in insulation, and the floor has R30 pink stuff between the joists. So the floor isolation is pretty good.

2+ sides of room (screen wall, right wall, and part of the left wall) face open attic that I have good access to. The back of the left wall is a double wall with a guest bathroom (2x4, 4" space, 2x4, both wall insulated now), and the back wall has 19" of space to the guest bedroom behind (both walls insulated). The right side has the roof leaning in from about the middle of the theater back, starting at about 5' and sloping up to the ceiling. The right rear has a wierd little alcove kicked out with a low ceiling as the roof slopes down.

So, it is pretty well isolated to begin with. Unfortunately, it was divided into TWO ROOMS! Rather than a nice home theater, they had a weird shaped little TV room (with the TV in the corner and speakers in alcoves high in the wall) and a weird little closet room with a big skylight. Sketch and pictures:



From the door towards the TV corner. The new screen will be to the left of the TV, the TV corner squared off.


Front of the room looking back at the door to the weird room.


Interior of the weird room:


Since I moved into this house 2 years ago, I've had my eye on this room. My wife finally got comfortable with the idea over Christmas. In January, I got an architect to verify that the wall wasn't structural, got some permits, and pulled out the sawzall!



I had a general plan to rip out that closet room, match the complex ceiling work, and put in a home theater, but no specifics. It's been evolving since then while I destroyed things.

The general plan, as it stands today:
- 16x21' room (screen to back wall), with 2'+ of space for speakers/bass traps behind the screen wall.
- better isolation: double drywall/GG on all the walls, another layer of 3/4" OSB with GG on the floor, better door.
- 11' wide 2.35:1 AT SMX screen. (I'll likely project a 16x9 100" wide picture to begin with)
- 1080p <$7k projector (RS1?)
- 2 rows of 4 recliners (Berkline 088? Comparable individual recliners?), second row on a riser.
- Stage in front of the screen for the kids (4 and 6) to perform on.
- 7.2 audio. Looking at HSU subs right now, and considering DIY speakers.

More to come.

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post #2 of 567 Old 05-29-2007, 09:00 AM - Thread Starter
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My initial plan was to hire a contractor to do the destruction/framing/drywall/etc. I'd just do the stage/riser/screen after the room was done.

The contractor I ended up with was quite comfortable working with me and letting me do as much as I wanted to do. So I told him I'd work on the destruction, and when I had everything ripped out and ready for framing, I'd talk to him.

Haven't talked to him since.

Every time I get to the next stage, I realize that I can do it myself, and that I'll be more likely to get it the way I want that way. I'm learning as I go.

--------------

After the destruction, I had to redo the ceiling. Original plan: just square off the corner over the door to the little room. However, I decided it would look better and be no harder to push it all the way back to the back wall.

Here is the guts of the ceiling once the destruction was done:



The room is 10' tall. At 36" from the wall, it drops to a 9' soffit. Underneath that there is an 18" light shelf. The same thing extends along the right side angled wall, but the dimensions are a bit compressed over there.

Another shot, towards the back. I relocated that flex duct you see in the wall. It used to come out into the room (covered by a drywall box a foot deep). That annoyed me so I relocated the return in the room below and shifted it into the wall.



----------------
At this point I decided to try the framing myself. Bought a chop saw and a framing nailer. Not a chance I could have done it without both tools without killing myself.

First I built some frames for the front face of the soffits. They need to work into the existing steel studs at the front, but conveniently a 2x4 fits pretty well inside a steel stud, so I could just lay them in there. Holding these up to the ceilng with one hand while nailing them in with the other was a pain. I used ropes and bungie cords to help:


Then I built more frames and fit them in to form the bottom of the soffits:


At this point the 9' soffits were done (not counting the 45 degree corners, that comes later). This was relatively easy framing. Good for getting my confidence up.

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post #3 of 567 Old 05-30-2007, 05:56 AM - Thread Starter
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The 8' light shelf was the hardest part of the framing. Here is a cross section of the existing shelf I was extending:



Essentially I needed shelf 'bracket' 2x3's sticking out 18", supported about 4" from the wall by something coming down from the 9' ceiling above. In the back corners (where I am reproducing the 45 degree corners from the front, but scaled down), I needed to angle it across.

Here is my first attempt at the back right corner, right wall, and back:







The right wall was sturdy, but the right corner and back bugged me. Even though they likely would have been fine for a light shelf, I couldn't hang from them. They weren't overbuilt enough for me.

Then a light bulb went off! Rather than having the back wall shelf supports stick out from the wall, I could get a 12' 2x6 on it's side spanning from the wall over the window all the way across the room as the front of the shelf. Support the shelf from the sidewalls.

The back shelf would then be plenty strong to hang from. Also much simpler to make straight. The left and right walls will still be the 2x4 or 2x3 brackets. The angled corners will be 2x6's mitered into the back 2x6, but long enough to reach all the way to the side wall framing.

All the shelves would have 2x4's (ripped to the right height) as their front lip. These were overlapped to give a lot of strength to the joints between the different shelf parts.

Here is a picture of the solution, along with 2x4's ripped down to about 2x3's to match the front lip height:



back right:



back left:



That was it. I put 2x4's in for the angled corners of the soffit and the ceiling framing was done!


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post #4 of 567 Old 05-30-2007, 06:21 PM
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Wow! I love it when a man destroys a perfectly good room to build a theater. Good luck with the build. I doubt you will ever call that contractor.

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post #5 of 567 Old 05-30-2007, 11:14 PM - Thread Starter
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I kind of feel guilty never calling him back. He came by twice and spent an hour or two with me. He also got me in touch with my architect. But he never got any money from me. Ah, well. Maybe I'll invite him over to see the final result and give him some beer.

One advantage of using this space as a home theater: I'm replacing a really weird space with a more open/useful space. When we bought the house, my wife was turned off by the weird little room with a skylight (among other oddities), and I was annoyed by the TV room. The house had been on the market for 9 months, so maybe other people thought the same way.

I'm working my way through the house fixing all the things we thought were odd. It's weird, the more I fix it up, the better we'll do on resale, but the less likely I am to move.

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post #6 of 567 Old 05-31-2007, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Next, I prepared for my framing/electrical/mechanical inspection.

That meant patching the hole in the floor (I had to reroute a vent pipe and a duct), putting back the can lights I ripped out, adding an electrical socket (switched) to the light shelf over the door for the rope light.

I also had to rip the drywall out around the window and add spacers to the studs. The drywall in the little room sloped ceiling had been hung directly on the ceiling joists, but spaced off the wall by 1" or so in the main room (to match the big corner joist near the front). So I added spacers on the joists and in a frame around the window:


I had to chop the corner of the frame off that door to make room for the lower drywall level. I decided to leave the drywall in the nook directly on the joists so I'd have as much height for racks in there as possible. It'll likely be covered by a wall or cabinet fronts anyway.

I passed inspection clean. No issues. He did look at fire-blocking in the vertical walls. However, I was just fine in the back wall which I had worked on. The left wall (which I hadn't touched) did not have fireblocking at the top, he didn't look there as I hadn't touched it. Also, his take was that any wall space that had insulation on both sides could be open to the attic above. He considered that attic space.

Mostly he just said 'cool', looked around at my outlets and my lights, verified that the framing was sturdy, and signed me off. Took maybe 15 minutes, tops.

-----------------------------

Then came insulation. I tore down the back wall drywall and more of the angled ceiling so I could insulate it right. When originally built, the contractor only put drywall where the inspector could see it. Much of the soffit space and the whole back wall was uninsulated and exposed to attic. I ripped down enough drywall to get access to every uninsulated area and fixed the issues.





I also added insulation to the whole left wall. That wall is a 2x4 wall with a 4" or so gap to the 2x4 wall of the next room. The other wall was insulated, the HT wall was not. The top was exposed to attic.



I pushed insulation down from above into the space between the joists on that wall. I made duct tape 'cups' attached to the bottom of 8' batts and used an extendible pole to push the insulation down the wall. Worked fine where I didn't hit electrical outlets, etc. I'll be sealing off the top anyway, so it would be ok. I was mostly looking for additional sound isolation (I know, it won't help much).

While doing it, I found a LIVE light fixture with no bulb in it buried in the wall! It was attached to the attic light circuit and turned on whenever the attic lights are on. How moronic can you get. Fortunately, I could reach it through the in-wall speaker hole. Took me two hours to rewire that circuit and get the fixture and the dead romex out.

I then passed 'insulation inspection'. That was a very quick one: walk in, look up. "Yup, there's insulation." Sign off, leave.

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post #7 of 567 Old 05-31-2007, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Next came my first experience with drywall. I debated getting a dedicated drywall screw gun, but ended up with a simple, cheap 'dimpler' bit from a big box. There were two different brands (bosch and dewalt, I think). Both about $10. I tried both and had much more luck with one than the other. For the amount of drywall I'll be doing, a screw gun would have been a waste.

I started with the ceiling, soffit and light shelf. I can tell you, lifting drywall over your head and screwing it in is a pain. I would recommend two helpers and three ladders, or a drywall lift. In my case, I never had to lift more than 3/4 of a sheet of 5/8" over my head at a time, so I survived.

Here is the ceiling and soffit bottom:


Another big pain was the inside of the light shelf. I had pieces against the back on the window side that I needed a flexible shaft to drywall. I ended up just gluing down the drywall on the bottom of the light shelf, and putting no drywall in the back edge of the lip of the light shelf (solid 2x4 anyway). Completed ceiling drywall:



About this time, I ran out of the few sheets of drywall I had already picked up, so I had the blue box deliver me a load:



For $45, they'll deliver anything. That's 5/8 drywall for the right side wall and behind the screen, 1/2" drywall for all the double drywall, and 3/4" OSB for the double floor. I also had 5 cases of GG delivered.

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post #8 of 567 Old 05-31-2007, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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At this point, there was a big change in plans.

I had originally planned a screen on the wall as I didn't want to shorten my theater with a false wall, and my screen wall is a bearing wall. But I really really wanted to hide my speakers behind an AT screen if I could.

There is ~10' of angled attic space behind my screen wall. I considered knocking out some studs and putting 48" wide by 5' tall by 4' deep 'niches' for the speakers, stuff like that. The center speaker would have been an issue, as there is a quadruple 2x4 post right to the left of center. I anguished over this for a few weeks and asked around here. Generally the niches were considered a bad idea.

Finally, I called Bryan Pape. I was very familiar with his posts in Sandman's thread and the acoustical treatment master thread. However, since the folks around here who were hiring him (especially Sandman, my first exposure to Bryan) were clearly spending more money than I planned on my theater, I had assumed he was priced out of my range. But I finally gave up and figured it can't hurt to ask.

In my initial discussion with Bryan, he suggested knocking out the drywall on the screen wall, but leaving the studs. Build a new wall behind, put the speakers back there. It seems obvious now, but I had never thought of that. I guess I assumed the studs would be an issue. That did it, Bryan was hired to do my acoustic planning. Oh, and his rates were quite reasonable.

So, new plan: 2.35:1 AT screen mounted on the current front wall (where the cabinets are now). Speakers and treatment behind that.

Of course, my permit didn't contemplate tearing out the front wall. So that had to wait until after my inspections were complete. I didn't want to go through repermitting and new inspections.

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post #9 of 567 Old 06-01-2007, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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About two weeks ago, I was ready to finish my drywall. Unfortunately, I don't have a helper and my drywall was all stacked in the garage (see above). My HT is upstairs. My stairs are two short flights with a 180 turn in the middle. It's possible to get drywall up there, but it involves two people, contortions and crushed corners.

So I got creative. There is an upstairs family room right above the garage, next to the HT. I've pulled out some closets in there, so we'll need to recarpet pretty soon anyway. I pulled out the carpet knife and circular saw and cut a hole in the floor. Voila: sheet rock elevator:



View from upstairs:



View from upstairs with the plug in and the carpet folded back over:



With that, I can manhandle a sheet of 5/8" upstairs myself. Lean it up agaist the 2x6's, slide it up to sit on that cross piece, run upstairs and pull it up. When I'm done, I put the plug in, fold back the carpet, and slide a chair over it. The plug won't come up without a screwdriver prying it, so it's pretty kid safe.

So I finished my drywall:





At this point, I had my drywall inspection. I had now finished everything that was in the plans I submitted. No final inspection was needed, as the inspector didn't see a point to come out and inspect my mud, paint, and carpet. So he signed me off as 'no final needed'. I'm done.

That brings us up to last week. Next: the screen wall.

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post #10 of 567 Old 06-01-2007, 05:34 PM
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So this begs the question are you getting THE AT screen meaning an Smx? if so unless you want the entire thing frame and all at reg price, get your order in Immediately for the Smx fabric if you are doing your own, unless of course you already have. It was only offered for very limited final time.

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post #11 of 567 Old 06-01-2007, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh, believe me, I got my order in. It messed up my whole week when he took it off the market.

When I got the email that it was back on, I got my order for 13' in within an hour (order #51)! I was so pumped that it kicked me out of my week long break and I spent the whole Memorial day weekend destroying the screen wall. Pictures of that next.

Destruction is so much less complicated than construction. Much more viscerally satisfying.

Thanks for the heads up, though. If I hadn't ordered and missed out on SMX I'd be bumming.

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post #12 of 567 Old 06-02-2007, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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As mentioned above, when I saw the "No More SMX" post, I was bumming for a week. So last Saturday when I got the Ruben email indicating it was temporarily available, I jumped on it. Ordered 13' so I could get a 10-11' screen angled by 15% (if needed).

I hadn't really planned to do much on Memorial Day weekend, but now I was energized. So I went up and tore out the screen wall. Here it is before:



I yanked the drywall first (with the help of my four year old son and his hammer), then pulled each of the cabinets out as a unit. The TV corner I had to chop into smaller chunks to manage to get it out. I dragged the cabinets downstairs for disassembly (I'll save the larger plywood pieces for later use somewhere).

One minor luck: the builders had drywall the TV cabinet corner all the way to the corner of the room. I had thought I was going to drywall that.

Then lots and lots of cleanup.

After:


After with 11' wide 2.25:1 screen:



That screen is about the widest I think the room can handle. I may very well start by projecting 16x9, or projecting 2.35:1 smaller, depending on what my projector (not chosen yet) can handle.

However, I'll likely build the screen close to 11' wide, preparing for future light cannons.

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post #13 of 567 Old 06-04-2007, 10:52 AM - Thread Starter
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That brings the construction pictures up to date.

Plans as they stand today:

Room
- 9-11" wide screen mounted on the existing wall studs.
- 3' of space behind for subs/speakers (new wall to be built)
- 8-12" stage (for looks and kids)
- two rows of 4 Berkline 088 or similar, second row on riser
- equipment in low nook in back right

Video
- 2.35:1 SMX screen, Max 11' wide, more likely 9-10' wide.
- JVC RS1 mounted as far back as I can
- CIH stretch lense -> maybe someday
- HTPC doing DVD/scaler duty
- PS3

Audio
Start with my current 5.1 setup:
- Marantz SR8000
- Paradigm mini-monitors(4)/cc-370/PS-1000
Upgrade to:
- 7.1 receiver or prepro/amps (tbd)
- Build my own 7.1 speakers (ala Swithey)
- 2- HSU vtf3m3 subs

After talking to bpape and reading swithey's thread, the plan is to build my own speakers! This is a change as of last weekend. My carpentry skills are just fine and I have all the tools (cabinet saw, band saw, jointer, planer, etc), but speaker building was (is) black magic to me so I didn't consider it.

When I talked to Bryan and read the Swithey thread and realized that I could get somebody else to design the speaker/XO for my particular room/speaker placement, I was hooked. The building is the easy part, especially if they are all hidden behind GOM. I'm not the type to veneer anything hidden. I hate sanding.

Part of what triggered it was my desire to have identical left/center/right behind the screen, but vertical space constraint in the center with a sub at center front. If I build my own fronts, I can do a mid tweeter or low tweeter design, mount the speakers higher on the wall, and still have tweeter at the right screen height.

Current issues:
a) Room look: color scheme, column details, carpet, stage, etc. I need to spend more time browsing threads and pick a style starting point.

b) Speaker details: Do I just go with Steve Withey's setup as a starting point (with no curved sides, however), or go in a different direction? I'm not an audiophile, I just want 'good sound'.

c) Center post removal: I need to figure out how to support the roof while replacing the center post with two offset posts.

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post #14 of 567 Old 06-18-2007, 07:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Father's Day gave me a chance to finally move that center post in the screen wall. The post supports a double 2x8 that runs 22' down the middle of the theater. The post has to go as it is about where I want my center speaker. I'm going to replace it with a horizontal beam made up of 3 2x8's glued/screwed together, supported by two posts each made of two 2x6's. The new posts will have a 37" space between them, giving me plenty of room for my center speaker.

I cut a small hole in the ceiling drywall to expose the beam about 3' from the post. I built a jack out of scrap 2x8's and some 3/4" threaded rod/nuts/washers that I had lying around. I cut 3 9' 2x4's, clamped them together, and used them with the jack to support the ceiling and take the weight off the post. (The only thing being supported on this long beam is the ceiling of this room. It's not supporting the roof or anything above this room). I just used a wrench to raise the post until I heard a little bit of creaking in the ceiling and there was a slight visible lifting of the end of the beam off of the post.





Once I had that in, I cut/glued/screwed together the horizontal beam. I cut it long enough to fit snugly between the studs to either side of the center pillar. That way I can nail the top of those studs into the end of the beam and cut out the rest of the studs while still having some ceiling support.

I used a circular saw and sawzall to get out the center post below the 8' level. I had to trim it a bit with a dozuki saw to get the bottom of the top part of the post completely flat. I put up the beam under the remaining post section and nailed through the studs into the end of it. Then I cut the four 2x8's to fit and wacked them into place. Finally, I cut out the adjacent studs:



Here's a view from behind. You can see the end of the beam (it narrows to about 3" at the end) at the very top by the arrow. Below that is the top 2' of the post down to where I cut it. That rests on the new horizontal beam.



A bunch of toe-nailing later, I removed the jack and support. Nothing collapsed, no drywall cracking, no creaking.



I'm glad to have that done. Having that hanging over me has been slowing me down. The fact that the ceiling could fall down if I messed it up made this one a plan ten times, measure twenty times, cut once kind of job.

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post #15 of 567 Old 06-19-2007, 06:40 AM
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Great job,

Love the jack. Definately a nerve wracking step in the build.
Your skill has come a long way since the time you thought you needed a contractor, and it shows. Good luck with the rest.
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post #16 of 567 Old 06-19-2007, 09:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks!

I'm proud of that jack. Somehow it made the whole post removal feel much more professional. It took me about an hour to design/assemble. Most of that time was cutting one of my threaded rods into short sections with an angle grinder.

I had originally planned on using shims under 2x4's to wedge the support up, but I wasn't happy with the idea. I was at the big blue box buying some Titebond for the engineered beam and trying to find something like metal shims or a cheap jack that would work better. I was looking at the metal rods/bars bin when I remembered the threaded rod I had at home. Light bulb!

It pays to keep around all the old junk from previous projects.


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post #17 of 567 Old 06-19-2007, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post

When I talked to Bryan and read the Swithey thread and realized that I could get somebody else to design the speaker/XO for my particular room/speaker placement, I was hooked. The building is the easy part, especially if they are all hidden behind GOM. I'm not the type to veneer anything hidden. I hate sanding.

Part of what triggered it was my desire to have identical left/center/right behind the screen, but vertical space constraint in the center with a sub at center front. If I build my own fronts, I can do a mid tweeter or low tweeter design, mount the speakers higher on the wall, and still have tweeter at the right screen height.

I had many of the same goals. Here's what I ended up doing:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=826642
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post #18 of 567 Old 06-19-2007, 11:33 AM
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Interesting project. Did you close off the "Drywall elevator" - or will you when you are done? After learning that laundry chutes are now firecode violations up here, it occurs to me that if you don't close it up, you may be creating a path for fire to travel.
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post #19 of 567 Old 06-19-2007, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Lindahl,

Thanks for the speaker thread pointer. I'm a total speaker newbie. I'm waiting for my 'Speaker Building 201' and 'Loudspeaker design cookbook' to get in from Amazon before I go much further on the speakers. When I read things like 'inductive peaks', etc. it's all so much greek to me at this point. And this from an electrical engineer. (I've got an excuse, though, I'm a digital type).

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post #20 of 567 Old 06-19-2007, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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pilgrim,

The drywall elevator will be permanently sealed when I'm done. I can always reopen it easily enough if I ever need to. It's just drywall.

I know from a previous house that any path from the garage to the attic space above is bad. Also, the door from the garage to the house has to have a higher fire resistance. Essentially, the garage is considered to be a high fire risk and they want to slow the spread into the house. Oily rags, exploding pintos, etc.

I've got the upstairs floor pretty well sealed off even now, but I do have the drywall off. I'll just have to avoid oily rags for the next month or so.

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post #21 of 567 Old 06-19-2007, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post

Lindahl,

Thanks for the speaker thread pointer. I'm a total speaker newbie. I'm waiting for my 'Speaker Building 201' and 'Loudspeaker design cookbook' to get in from Amazon before I go much further on the speakers. When I read things like 'inductive peaks', etc. it's all so much greek to me at this point. And this from an electrical engineer. (I've got an excuse, though, I'm a digital type).

Actually, with what I did (hire Rick Craig for the design), I could have gotten by with knowing absolutely nothing about speaker building. But I can understand the desire to learn. After I started looking at getting into DIY speakers, I tried to learn as much as I could, just so I'd know what was going on.
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post #22 of 567 Old 07-07-2007, 08:44 PM - Thread Starter
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This is getting complicated!

I've spent the last week juggling variables. It all started because I need to finalize my stage height before I build the floor in the attic behind the screen. I was leaning towards about a foot, but I needed to nail it down.

To validate my stage height, I needed to see how my screen wall would look. I already planned on having my screen 24″ off of the HT floor (to get 42″ high front row eyes about 1/3 of the way from the bottom of the screen). Just to sanity check, I calculated my riser height. 18″ riser height! That would be three steps up! Wasn't going to happen, I am tight even with two steps up, so back to the drawing board.

I spent the last few days juggling screen height, Berkline 088 estimated eye height, recline angle, various assumptions about the heights of folks in the front/back rows, etc. I ended up with a 14″ riser, a 10″ stage, 17″ between the bottom of the screen and the stage and 17″ above the top of the screen to the 8′ light shelf.

This put the front row eye height about 7" below the "1/3 of the way up the screen" target that I had, but I can live with that. There was no way I was doing a three step up riser.



The stage is very deep because it's designed to be functional for the kids. That's about the minimum you need for a good dance show'. I'll need some ferns or curtains or something in the left/right corners to balance it out a bit. The stage design isn't finalized, just the height.

With the 10″ stage height validated, I could finally try to plan the floor behind the screen wall. I decided to build the floor in three maneagable sections out of 2×6's and strong-tie joist hangers. Once I had it planned, it only took about 4 hours to get the lumber, cut it, assemble it, and roughly place it.





Now I just need to build the support under the back and nail them in place. Then I can start working on the wall/ceiling back there.

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post #23 of 567 Old 07-07-2007, 10:32 PM
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Paul

Is that foil foam board they put under the roof sheating. If so how well does that keep it from heating up in that hot Texas sun

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post #24 of 567 Old 07-08-2007, 08:31 AM
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Wooly.

Solar Board is an easy and cost effective way to keep heat out of attic space. We just installed it in our new home construction.
Reports say it cuts down about 30% temperature gradient especially in low pitch roofs.
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post #25 of 567 Old 07-08-2007, 02:21 PM - Thread Starter
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It's 'TechShield', from Louisiana Pacific. It's normal OSB roof sheathing with a radiant barrier glued to the inner surface. I don't know how effective it is, but when I bought my house, my realtor was very pleased when he saw it and seemed to think it was a good thing.

I've been working up there this weekend framing and insulating and it's been in the 90's up there. I'm about a week away from being able to turn on the AC again.

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post #26 of 567 Old 07-09-2007, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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I've finished framing the room extension.

I put in the first layer of the floor in (3/4″ OSB), then framed the walls/ceiling. I used 2×6 construction connected into the ceiling joists along the back wall, with framed right and left side walls.

I've also got the ceiling insulation in. I can start drywalling tomorrow! Once I get that in and patch the front section of the right wall, I can turn on the AC again.






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post #27 of 567 Old 07-10-2007, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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We have drywall! The first layer of drywall is in the room extension. All I need to do is frame/drywall that hole in the right wall, insulate, OSB over the gap behind the stage, and I can turn on the A/C again!

That will be a huge step. After that I can work in comfort.




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post #28 of 567 Old 07-27-2007, 12:00 AM
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sweet! a fellow Austinite!!! Keep up the good work!
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post #29 of 567 Old 07-27-2007, 09:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks! I'm just starting to play with mudding/taping drywall at this point. Life's been a bit hectic.

What part of Austin are you in? Have you got a home theater?

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post #30 of 567 Old 08-07-2007, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post

Thanks! I'm just starting to play with mudding/taping drywall at this point. Life's been a bit hectic.

What part of Austin are you in? Have you got a home theater?

I am in Cedar Park. My home theater is really just a big tv room. I have a 62" dlp with 7.1 surround sound. Nothing fancy @ all, but good enough to keep my family entertained (primarily me and the wife).
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