What I'd do differently next time. - Page 31 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #901 of 915 Old 03-21-2015, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by LeBon View Post
Known in the trade as a "long radius elbow" or a "wide sweep ell"
You can also make these sweeping bends by patiently heating the conduit while rotating the pipe and continually moving a heat gun (or more carefully, a plumber's torch) over a section of the PVC pipe until it softens enough to stretch without kinking. Hold it in the custom shape and splash cold water on it to speed up the hardening process with your third hand. I have bent up to 4" PVC pipe this way to get around obstacles where elbows would not have fit. This also eliminates the joints that the fish can get hung on.

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post #902 of 915 Old 03-21-2015, 01:13 PM
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I would have made the stretched-fabric panels removable wherever there was a speaker behind them. It was a technical challenge to do this, so I opted not to. I believed that it was unlikely that there would be problems with the surround speakers, since they are passive, so no electronics to fail, etc. What we did do was to really pay attention to how they are mounted, ensuring there was no way for the speaker to vibrate, or for the speaker wires to contact the cabinetry or any other structure and vibrate.

Well, I ended up with a buzz in one of my surround speakers! So, I had to take the fabric down, which will require expert assistance to put it up again. It turned out that there was a loose screw on the back of the speaker, and it allowed the PCB for the speaker crossover to buzz when the speaker was energized with a particular frequency range.
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post #903 of 915 Old 03-21-2015, 02:42 PM
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After a build like yours, to end up with such a dumb problem is a real shame.
More proof that sh*t happens.
Duct tape won't work?

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post #904 of 915 Old 03-21-2015, 03:29 PM
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It is a bit vexing, but right you are. "Stuff" happens. We did do extensive shake tests and tone sweeps before putting the fabric up, so I suspect that that screw either backed out a bit, or maybe the PCB was stuck on the standoff that holds it and eventually popped free.

I will be using some superglue on those screws before I put everything back together.

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post #905 of 915 Old 03-22-2015, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustMike View Post
I would have made the stretched-fabric panels removable wherever there was a speaker behind them. It was a technical challenge to do this, so I opted not to. I believed that it was unlikely that there would be problems with the surround speakers, since they are passive, so no electronics to fail, etc. What we did do was to really pay attention to how they are mounted, ensuring there was no way for the speaker to vibrate, or for the speaker wires to contact the cabinetry or any other structure and vibrate.

Well, I ended up with a buzz in one of my surround speakers! So, I had to take the fabric down, which will require expert assistance to put it up again. It turned out that there was a loose screw on the back of the speaker, and it allowed the PCB for the speaker crossover to buzz when the speaker was energized with a particular frequency range.
What fabric system did you end up using? I have tried/plan to install the fabricmate track system, its really easy to get fabric in and out of it if you do need to replace something behind it. You just pull the fabric back out, then use a pizza like tool or a thin tool like a putty knife to push it back in, doesn't require any thing special to put it back in.
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post #906 of 915 Old 03-22-2015, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by KanosWRX View Post
What fabric system did you end up using? I have tried/plan to install the fabricmate track system, its really easy to get fabric in and out of it if you do need to replace something behind it. You just pull the fabric back out, then use a pizza like tool or a thin tool like a putty knife to push it back in, doesn't require any thing special to put it back in.
I was thinking I would use Fabricmate, but saw their price is up 50% per piece, so I should have bought a few months back. Now, I am thinking 3/4" plywood strips, with 1/4 round on the edges, but velcro them to the wall for easy removal.
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post #907 of 915 Old 03-22-2015, 12:04 PM
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What fabric system did you end up using?
I don't know what it's called, I'm afraid. I had it installed professionally. The tracks are in two pieces that snap together and hinge open on one side. You affix the fabric to the other side where there's a sticky area, then snap them closed, which puts the tension on the fabric and clamps it in place. I've attached a photo of a sample piece.
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post #908 of 915 Old 03-22-2015, 06:57 PM
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I don't know what it's called, I'm afraid. I had it installed professionally. The tracks are in two pieces that snap together and hinge open on one side. You affix the fabric to the other side where there's a sticky area, then snap them closed, which puts the tension on the fabric and clamps it in place. I've attached a photo of a sample piece.
Yeah, that one does look more complicated. well hopefully you won't have to take it off to much anymore
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post #909 of 915 Old 03-22-2015, 07:08 PM
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Let's hope not! It's not too hard to take off with the proper tool. But I'm not willing to try putting it up again myself, especially on that panel with the cutout for the light fixture. The pros will do it next time they're in the area for another client.

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post #910 of 915 Old 03-26-2015, 02:57 PM
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I have several. A few that come to mind...I'm sure I'll post more later.

1) Build a basement in my next house. A basement was out of budget for this house but I definitely want one in my next house. The upstairs theater is not that bad for my family, however I really envy the awesome basement theaters and recreation spaces.

2) Make the riser at least 12" tall. Mine is 10" and if reclined in the back row the front row seats (if not reclined) set ever so slightly up at the bottom of my view in front of the screen. Most "non theater geeks" people would probably not notice, but its enough to drive me mad.

3) Make the ceiling taller. My plan called for 8' and I had plenty of space to add another foot or two, but didn't to save money. It would have been worth it to add an extra foot and I never even discussed the cost with my builder.

4) Make a bigger component closet. I personally, am not a fan of the visible equipment racks and like have my components hidden. I put in a 4'x5' closet which is more than enough room for my equipment but it would be very nice if I had more room to walk in and move things around easier when it comes to setup, etc. Not to mention, I like to store all of my media in there as well.
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post #911 of 915 Old 03-26-2015, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mthiggins View Post
I have several. A few that come to mind...I'm sure I'll post more later.

1) Build a basement in my next house. A basement was out of budget for this house but I definitely want one in my next house. The upstairs theater is not that bad for my family, however I really envy the awesome basement theaters and recreation spaces.

2) Make the riser at least 12" tall. Mine is 10" and if reclined in the back row the front row seats (if not reclined) set ever so slightly up at the bottom of my view in front of the screen. Most "non theater geeks" people would probably not notice, but its enough to drive me mad.

3) Make the ceiling taller. My plan called for 8' and I had plenty of space to add another foot or two, but didn't to save money. It would have been worth it to add an extra foot and I never even discussed the cost with my builder.

4) Make a bigger component closet. I personally, am not a fan of the visible equipment racks and like have my components hidden. I put in a 4'x5' closet which is more than enough room for my equipment but it would be very nice if I had more room to walk in and move things around easier when it comes to setup, etc. Not to mention, I like to store all of my media in there as well.

I had the same problem with your #2 . I build a small "riser" just for my second row. 2x4 with leftover 3/4" ply. Covered it with black carpet, kinda like the stuff to cover boat trailer bunks. It gave me the boost I needed.


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post #912 of 915 Old 04-02-2015, 06:57 PM
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Concrete cinema room. Placed the tubes in the walls and the wall boxes for the side and back speaker cables too low...Yeah...another day of work With Builders to extend them to 180cm over the floor. Lesson learned.


Another pointer for you all out there: rethink and use some more time mulling over details and solutions BEFORE you start building. Cheaper that way...

Shait Happenz...
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post #913 of 915 Old Yesterday, 08:54 AM
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I wish I would have put my step lights in the wall facing the seats versus in the riser facing the screen. They light up the sides of the screen and leave a shadow in the center.

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post #914 of 915 Old Today, 03:30 PM
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Would something like this help?
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post #915 of 915 Old Today, 03:50 PM
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I wish I would have put my step lights in the wall facing the seats versus in the riser facing the screen. They light up the sides of the screen and leave a shadow in the center.
Use some kind of baffle like shown above and dim them. During a movie the room is fairly dark, so your irises are dilated and don't need a lot of light to see the stairs.

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