What I'd do differently next time. - Page 31 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Baselworld is only a few weeks away. Getting the latest news is easy, Click Here for info on how to join the Watchuseek.com newsletter list. Follow our team for updates featuring event coverage, new product unveilings, watch industry news & more!


Forum Jump: 
 76Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #901 of 946 Old 03-21-2015, 07:56 AM
Senior Member
 
just jim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 331
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Liked: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post
Known in the trade as a "long radius elbow" or a "wide sweep ell"
You can also make these sweeping bends by patiently heating the conduit while rotating the pipe and continually moving a heat gun (or more carefully, a plumber's torch) over a section of the PVC pipe until it softens enough to stretch without kinking. Hold it in the custom shape and splash cold water on it to speed up the hardening process with your third hand. I have bent up to 4" PVC pipe this way to get around obstacles where elbows would not have fit. This also eliminates the joints that the fish can get hung on.

Winterfell theatre build - working title
just jim is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #902 of 946 Old 03-21-2015, 01:13 PM
AVS Special Member
 
JustMike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 2,276
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked: 34
I would have made the stretched-fabric panels removable wherever there was a speaker behind them. It was a technical challenge to do this, so I opted not to. I believed that it was unlikely that there would be problems with the surround speakers, since they are passive, so no electronics to fail, etc. What we did do was to really pay attention to how they are mounted, ensuring there was no way for the speaker to vibrate, or for the speaker wires to contact the cabinetry or any other structure and vibrate.

Well, I ended up with a buzz in one of my surround speakers! So, I had to take the fabric down, which will require expert assistance to put it up again. It turned out that there was a loose screw on the back of the speaker, and it allowed the PCB for the speaker crossover to buzz when the speaker was energized with a particular frequency range.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_8466.jpg
Views:	300
Size:	35.9 KB
ID:	616769   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_8478.jpg
Views:	256
Size:	55.5 KB
ID:	616777  

Mike Kobb
(Formerly "ReplayMike". These opinions are mine alone, and in no way reflect the opinions of employers past or present!)
"Mike's Money Pit" Build Thread
JustMike is offline  
post #903 of 946 Old 03-21-2015, 02:42 PM
AVS Special Member
 
LastButNotLeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: 08077
Posts: 6,135
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked: 565
After a build like yours, to end up with such a dumb problem is a real shame.
More proof that sh*t happens.
Duct tape won't work?

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
Downloadable FREE demo discs: Demonstration Blu-Ray Discs (Independently Authored)
Welcome to AVS - Get out while you still can!
LastButNotLeast is offline  
post #904 of 946 Old 03-21-2015, 03:29 PM
AVS Special Member
 
JustMike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 2,276
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked: 34
It is a bit vexing, but right you are. "Stuff" happens. We did do extensive shake tests and tone sweeps before putting the fabric up, so I suspect that that screw either backed out a bit, or maybe the PCB was stuck on the standoff that holds it and eventually popped free.

I will be using some superglue on those screws before I put everything back together.

Mike Kobb
(Formerly "ReplayMike". These opinions are mine alone, and in no way reflect the opinions of employers past or present!)
"Mike's Money Pit" Build Thread
JustMike is offline  
post #905 of 946 Old 03-22-2015, 05:50 AM
Senior Member
 
KanosWRX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 383
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 118 Post(s)
Liked: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustMike View Post
I would have made the stretched-fabric panels removable wherever there was a speaker behind them. It was a technical challenge to do this, so I opted not to. I believed that it was unlikely that there would be problems with the surround speakers, since they are passive, so no electronics to fail, etc. What we did do was to really pay attention to how they are mounted, ensuring there was no way for the speaker to vibrate, or for the speaker wires to contact the cabinetry or any other structure and vibrate.

Well, I ended up with a buzz in one of my surround speakers! So, I had to take the fabric down, which will require expert assistance to put it up again. It turned out that there was a loose screw on the back of the speaker, and it allowed the PCB for the speaker crossover to buzz when the speaker was energized with a particular frequency range.
What fabric system did you end up using? I have tried/plan to install the fabricmate track system, its really easy to get fabric in and out of it if you do need to replace something behind it. You just pull the fabric back out, then use a pizza like tool or a thin tool like a putty knife to push it back in, doesn't require any thing special to put it back in.
KanosWRX is offline  
post #906 of 946 Old 03-22-2015, 06:21 AM
Advanced Member
 
kmhvball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mason, Ohio
Posts: 569
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 231 Post(s)
Liked: 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by KanosWRX View Post
What fabric system did you end up using? I have tried/plan to install the fabricmate track system, its really easy to get fabric in and out of it if you do need to replace something behind it. You just pull the fabric back out, then use a pizza like tool or a thin tool like a putty knife to push it back in, doesn't require any thing special to put it back in.
I was thinking I would use Fabricmate, but saw their price is up 50% per piece, so I should have bought a few months back. Now, I am thinking 3/4" plywood strips, with 1/4 round on the edges, but velcro them to the wall for easy removal.
kmhvball is offline  
post #907 of 946 Old 03-22-2015, 12:04 PM
AVS Special Member
 
JustMike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 2,276
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by KanosWRX View Post
What fabric system did you end up using?
I don't know what it's called, I'm afraid. I had it installed professionally. The tracks are in two pieces that snap together and hinge open on one side. You affix the fabric to the other side where there's a sticky area, then snap them closed, which puts the tension on the fabric and clamps it in place. I've attached a photo of a sample piece.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 3-22-15 at 12.03 PM.jpg
Views:	203
Size:	47.4 KB
ID:	618553  

Mike Kobb
(Formerly "ReplayMike". These opinions are mine alone, and in no way reflect the opinions of employers past or present!)
"Mike's Money Pit" Build Thread
JustMike is offline  
post #908 of 946 Old 03-22-2015, 06:57 PM
Senior Member
 
KanosWRX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 383
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 118 Post(s)
Liked: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustMike View Post
I don't know what it's called, I'm afraid. I had it installed professionally. The tracks are in two pieces that snap together and hinge open on one side. You affix the fabric to the other side where there's a sticky area, then snap them closed, which puts the tension on the fabric and clamps it in place. I've attached a photo of a sample piece.
Yeah, that one does look more complicated. well hopefully you won't have to take it off to much anymore
KanosWRX is offline  
post #909 of 946 Old 03-22-2015, 07:08 PM
AVS Special Member
 
JustMike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 2,276
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked: 34
Let's hope not! It's not too hard to take off with the proper tool. But I'm not willing to try putting it up again myself, especially on that panel with the cutout for the light fixture. The pros will do it next time they're in the area for another client.

Mike Kobb
(Formerly "ReplayMike". These opinions are mine alone, and in no way reflect the opinions of employers past or present!)
"Mike's Money Pit" Build Thread
JustMike is offline  
post #910 of 946 Old 03-26-2015, 02:57 PM
Member
 
mthiggins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 85
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 14
I have several. A few that come to mind...I'm sure I'll post more later.

1) Build a basement in my next house. A basement was out of budget for this house but I definitely want one in my next house. The upstairs theater is not that bad for my family, however I really envy the awesome basement theaters and recreation spaces.

2) Make the riser at least 12" tall. Mine is 10" and if reclined in the back row the front row seats (if not reclined) set ever so slightly up at the bottom of my view in front of the screen. Most "non theater geeks" people would probably not notice, but its enough to drive me mad.

3) Make the ceiling taller. My plan called for 8' and I had plenty of space to add another foot or two, but didn't to save money. It would have been worth it to add an extra foot and I never even discussed the cost with my builder.

4) Make a bigger component closet. I personally, am not a fan of the visible equipment racks and like have my components hidden. I put in a 4'x5' closet which is more than enough room for my equipment but it would be very nice if I had more room to walk in and move things around easier when it comes to setup, etc. Not to mention, I like to store all of my media in there as well.
mthiggins is offline  
post #911 of 946 Old 03-26-2015, 05:13 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by mthiggins View Post
I have several. A few that come to mind...I'm sure I'll post more later.

1) Build a basement in my next house. A basement was out of budget for this house but I definitely want one in my next house. The upstairs theater is not that bad for my family, however I really envy the awesome basement theaters and recreation spaces.

2) Make the riser at least 12" tall. Mine is 10" and if reclined in the back row the front row seats (if not reclined) set ever so slightly up at the bottom of my view in front of the screen. Most "non theater geeks" people would probably not notice, but its enough to drive me mad.

3) Make the ceiling taller. My plan called for 8' and I had plenty of space to add another foot or two, but didn't to save money. It would have been worth it to add an extra foot and I never even discussed the cost with my builder.

4) Make a bigger component closet. I personally, am not a fan of the visible equipment racks and like have my components hidden. I put in a 4'x5' closet which is more than enough room for my equipment but it would be very nice if I had more room to walk in and move things around easier when it comes to setup, etc. Not to mention, I like to store all of my media in there as well.

I had the same problem with your #2 . I build a small "riser" just for my second row. 2x4 with leftover 3/4" ply. Covered it with black carpet, kinda like the stuff to cover boat trailer bunks. It gave me the boost I needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mercracing is offline  
post #912 of 946 Old 04-02-2015, 06:57 PM
Member
 
LydMekk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Spain
Posts: 99
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Concrete cinema room. Placed the tubes in the walls and the wall boxes for the side and back speaker cables too low...Yeah...another day of work With Builders to extend them to 180cm over the floor. Lesson learned.


Another pointer for you all out there: rethink and use some more time mulling over details and solutions BEFORE you start building. Cheaper that way...

Shait Happenz...
LydMekk is offline  
post #913 of 946 Old 04-20-2015, 08:54 AM
Advanced Member
 
avtexan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 512
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Liked: 82
I wish I would have put my step lights in the wall facing the seats versus in the riser facing the screen. They light up the sides of the screen and leave a shadow in the center.

The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462881/th...ruction-thread

Houston GTG - Summer 2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post26079610
avtexan is offline  
post #914 of 946 Old 04-21-2015, 03:30 PM
AVS Special Member
 
LastButNotLeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: 08077
Posts: 6,135
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked: 565
Would something like this help?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	prledvls-ww.jpg
Views:	93
Size:	73.4 KB
ID:	678153  

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
Downloadable FREE demo discs: Demonstration Blu-Ray Discs (Independently Authored)
Welcome to AVS - Get out while you still can!
LastButNotLeast is offline  
post #915 of 946 Old 04-21-2015, 03:50 PM
Senior Member
 
just jim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 331
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Liked: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post
I wish I would have put my step lights in the wall facing the seats versus in the riser facing the screen. They light up the sides of the screen and leave a shadow in the center.
Use some kind of baffle like shown above and dim them. During a movie the room is fairly dark, so your irises are dilated and don't need a lot of light to see the stairs.

Winterfell theatre build - working title
just jim is offline  
post #916 of 946 Old 05-18-2015, 11:14 AM
Member
 
nonstopdoc1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 152
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 61 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by strange_brew View Post
I would have made more room between my front wall and screen wall - right now the subs are jammed in there pretty tight and I don't have as much freedom of movement as I'd like. An extra 3" would have made a huge difference.
How much space would you recommend between front wall and screen wall?
nonstopdoc1 is offline  
post #917 of 946 Old 06-25-2015, 08:44 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
R Harkness's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 12,462
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 438 Post(s)
Liked: 533
I drove myself almost mad with thinking through every tiny little detail in my theater, for something like 2 years in the design process. And then getting all those details right during the build process almost ruined me.

But the end result, 5 years later, is that there is almost nothing I would have done differently. Everything worked beyond my wildest dreams.

There is ONE thing for sure I can think of that I'd do differently if doing it again. I'd employ black velvet curtains
right from the beginning, for covering walls when watching movies (projection-based set up).

It's amazing how many ideas I went through in terms of how to have walls that were bright during the day/not watching movies (because this was not dedicated theater room), but which could be covered easily for movie watching. For various reasons I'd contemplated pull down black blinds over the walls, automated blinds, etc.
My "final" design was using dark brown velvet curtains stacked to the sides of the screen wall which could be pulled some way out along the side walls to cut reflections for movies. That certainly worked really well. But ultimately I wanted the room to utterly disappear when watching movies, and only truly deep black velvet would do that. The existing brown curtains were actually helpful here, as I didn't like the look at all of black velvet curtains during the day time. So I installed black velvet curtains behind the more beautiful, decor-matching brown velvet curtains. So now the black velvet curtains can be quickly pulled out along the entire walls to make a black box for movie watching, and just as quickly disappear from view, like they don't exist,
behind the existing curtains during daytime.

Any time I have to do another HT, I will definitely be deploying something similar to this method. (My ultimate version would have the curtains automated, so they could come out and cover the walls as part of a macro on my universal remote. Automated curtain motors aren't actually very expensive either. My problem is one curtain side has to clear a fire-place, hence not a straight path, making automated curtains difficult).
R Harkness is offline  
post #918 of 946 Old 06-28-2015, 06:29 AM
Senior Member
 
KanosWRX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 383
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 118 Post(s)
Liked: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 View Post
How much space would you recommend between front wall and screen wall?
This was one thing I read, but wish I followed through with more.. its a trade off that usually means slightly smaller screen size, but more room behind the false wall. You never see behind the false wall so you think, oh ill never need anymore space... until you find out that new sub won't fit back there I spec'd out about 2 feet for mine, but failed to realize that with the sound absorption and false wall framing, it ate up a good 8-9 inches all together, so I only had about 15" of space on the floor.. not a lot for a sub So now I am trying to take out some insulation behind where the sub is going and cut away some of the false wall framing up front to fit a sub in there that is 17" deep with a big heatsink on the back. So I would say, make sure you have at least 3 feet total from drywall to the front of the false wall (If its a tight fit, might be able to get away with 2.5 feet, but no less then that!), that gives you some wiggle room to fit most subs. That's the biggest thing I would have done differently.
nonstopdoc1 likes this.
KanosWRX is offline  
post #919 of 946 Old 06-29-2015, 04:11 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 1
Recommendations for consultant? Cost expectations?

>>>Honestly, I would have used DE or his associates from the beginning... I spent $1000 for DRAWINGS.....No support, no contact-it was like pulling teeth just to get questions answered.<<<<

Hey Chinaclipper and all,
I'd love to get pro/consultant help, as I'm just diving into information in the last two months, and I am DROWNING I have a 9.5 x 14.5' room stripped to the studs, so a (small) but blank slate for a dedicated theater. My total budget is as follows, so if you could recommend someone to consult and give rough cost estimate, much appreciated:
Construction: $3,000 (quietrock or double drywall with green glue, light electrical, smurf tube, new door location; floors and ceiling are already soundproofed; has dimmable lights that should work)
Everything else: $8,000 (I have a decent receiver and front speakers already)
ingloriousbasterd is offline  
post #920 of 946 Old 06-30-2015, 10:29 AM
AVS Special Member
 
LastButNotLeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: 08077
Posts: 6,135
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked: 565
Knowing your location would be a good start.

Welcome to AVS. Have fun.

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
Downloadable FREE demo discs: Demonstration Blu-Ray Discs (Independently Authored)
Welcome to AVS - Get out while you still can!
LastButNotLeast is offline  
post #921 of 946 Old 06-30-2015, 10:48 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by ingloriousbasterd View Post
>>>Honestly, I would have used DE or his associates from the beginning... I spent $1000 for DRAWINGS.....No support, no contact-it was like pulling teeth just to get questions answered.<<<<

Hey Chinaclipper and all,
I'd love to get pro/consultant help, as I'm just diving into information in the last two months, and I am DROWNING I have a 9.5 x 14.5' room stripped to the studs, so a (small) but blank slate for a dedicated theater. My total budget is as follows, so if you could recommend someone to consult and give rough cost estimate, much appreciated:
Construction: $3,000 (quietrock or double drywall with green glue, light electrical, smurf tube, new door location; floors and ceiling are already soundproofed; has dimmable lights that should work)
Everything else: $8,000 (I have a decent receiver and front speakers already)
OK, i'm just outside of Boulder, CO.
ingloriousbasterd is offline  
post #922 of 946 Old 06-30-2015, 11:29 AM
AVS Special Member
 
nickbuol's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Marion, Iowa
Posts: 2,019
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 154 Post(s)
Liked: 305
I read at a number of places that double drywall and Greenglue (or OSB then Greenglue and then drywall) was much better, and a better value, than Quietrock or similar products, but that is just my 2cents probably for a different thread.
nickbuol is offline  
post #923 of 946 Old 06-30-2015, 11:40 AM
AVS Special Member
 
LastButNotLeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: 08077
Posts: 6,135
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked: 565
You might find some interesting info in Earl Geddes' book (free pdf):
http://gedlee.azurewebsites.net/down...me_theater.pdf

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
Downloadable FREE demo discs: Demonstration Blu-Ray Discs (Independently Authored)
Welcome to AVS - Get out while you still can!
LastButNotLeast is offline  
post #924 of 946 Old 06-30-2015, 01:36 PM
AVS Special Member
 
nickbuol's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Marion, Iowa
Posts: 2,019
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 154 Post(s)
Liked: 305
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
You might find some interesting info in Earl Geddes' book (free pdf):
http://gedlee.azurewebsites.net/down...me_theater.pdf
Chapter 11 of that is good for construction... With a smallish room, there would be great benefit from decoupling the interior and exterior walls, but not sure if he can lose the interior space.

Good (bit dated, but still valid) long reference doc for someone getting started. Thanks for sharing it.
nickbuol is offline  
post #925 of 946 Old 07-22-2015, 08:41 AM
Member
 
Nick in Manitou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Manitou Springs, Colorado
Posts: 80
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I was sure that I had all the cables I would ever need to the TV location, so I didn't run conduit or other tubing...I wouldn't need to add anything!

We rented the house out while out of town for a year and a half due to a job change and when we came back...the HDMI cable end was destroyed.

Lesson learned...conduit everywhere next time...no question.
Nick in Manitou is offline  
post #926 of 946 Old 07-22-2015, 08:41 AM
Member
 
Nick in Manitou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Manitou Springs, Colorado
Posts: 80
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I was sure that I had all the cables I would ever need to the TV location, so I didn't run conduit or other tubing...I wouldn't need to add anything!

We rented the house out while out of town for a year and a half due to a job change and when we came back...the HDMI cable end was destroyed.

Lesson learned...conduit everywhere next time...no question.
Nick in Manitou is offline  
post #927 of 946 Old 07-22-2015, 11:10 AM
AVS Special Member
 
blipszyc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 2,784
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked: 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick in Manitou View Post
Lesson learned...conduit everywhere next time...no question.
Lesson #2 - get a bigger Security Deposit from your renter.
Nick in Manitou likes this.

Visit the Lipszyc Home Theater! 1.0
2.0 done and finally posted! - Theater 2.0

And now...The Queen City Theater (3.0)

Last edited by blipszyc; 07-22-2015 at 11:25 AM.
blipszyc is offline  
post #928 of 946 Old 07-23-2015, 08:02 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
R Harkness's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 12,462
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 438 Post(s)
Liked: 533
I'm curious:

Would anyone say that "next time" you simply would not build a home theater at all?

Perhaps the experience was too draining and not worth it. Or it didn't turn out as you hoped, or you don't use it so much, or any other reason to just not want to do it again (or even regret doing it)?
R Harkness is offline  
post #929 of 946 Old 07-24-2015, 08:14 AM
Newbie
 
Bronston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'm about to enter the process again and I'm wondering the same thing. How far do I really need to go for an enjoyable result. I know that's open to personal preference but I'm thinking maybe I don't need as many bells and whistles, especially with respect to decor. I do very much like having a big picture and big sound experience but I think I'm realizing I'm not so committed to the hobby as to apply the excess resources of money and time anymore that it may take to implement a reference level theater experience. I think I'm more than OK with a good to very good experience.

Life changes, people relocate etc... I wonder if investing so much into something that may get left behind and may not offer a good financial return. Sometimes the space doesn't get all the intended usage. One agonizes over how to build and accommodate those 6,8,10, 12 seats and 90% of the time only 3 or 4 seats are used.
Bronston is offline  
post #930 of 946 Old 07-25-2015, 06:48 AM
Senior Member
 
SteveFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Vernon, WI(near Milwaukee)
Posts: 322
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Liked: 19
I would say, do what you feel is comfortable for you. If you want to go all out, then awesome. I am in the process of designing my 2nd theater and I will go a bit higher end this time, but still not to the extremes. I do agree we set up the theaters to fit 6-8-10-12 but 95% of the time it's just 1-4 watching. I say have fun and in the end, I am sure it will be perfect for you.
SteveFred is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off