The RTROSE (take my sweet time) HT Construction Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 2103 Old 04-24-2010, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPh Drew View Post

Yes, you just get empty screen on either side (in my case about 14" wide on each side. There are masking option available but I don't find it necessary.

I just had a first time guest over here Thursday to watch a Wings game and sitting in the second row (19' from screen) he kept commenting on how it felt like he was at the game.

I didnt notice in your thread but how about a screenshot of some 16:9 material followed by some 2.40 material??

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post #632 of 2103 Old 04-24-2010, 12:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

I didnt notice in your thread but how about a screenshot of some 16:9 material followed by some 2.40 material??

You could do that but you could also post them here too. I find I am really not bothered by bars either letter boxing or pillar boxing so getting rid of the bars is not the most motivating factor in my decision in which screen aspect to go with. I just want the best experience I can get.

But yep photos of the different scopes on different screens would be a great learning experience, so post away.

Regards,

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post #633 of 2103 Old 04-24-2010, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

You could do that but you could also post them here too. I find I am really not bothered by bars either letter boxing or pillar boxing so getting rid of the bars is not the most motivating factor in my decision in which screen aspect to go with. I just want the best experience I can get.

But yep photos of the different scopes on different screens would be a great learning experience, so post away.

Regards,

RTROSE

I only recommended his thread so we didnt hijack yours any longer but here is fine as well....I need to see a 16:9 image on a 2.40 screen to see if it would bother me or not

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post #634 of 2103 Old 04-24-2010, 01:24 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm not opposed to hijacking when the hijack help me (and others) visualize a concept or question.

Hijack away I say!

Regards,

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post #635 of 2103 Old 04-24-2010, 06:51 PM
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Here is a link of some old pics of screen shots. I will see if I can get any better ones.

Man, that took longer than I thought it would...

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post #636 of 2103 Old 04-25-2010, 06:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Drew,

That helps a lot . I remember seeing those now, I had just forgotten since it was so long ago.

Regards,

RTROSE

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post #637 of 2103 Old 04-25-2010, 07:26 AM
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What is the difference between 16:9 and 2.4? i dont get what is trying to be accomplished. Bigger picture?

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post #638 of 2103 Old 04-25-2010, 01:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PS3forlife View Post

What is the difference between 16:9 and 2.4? i dont get what is trying to be accomplished. Bigger picture?

It has to do with aspect ratio. 16:9 is what HDTV's native aspect ratio is. Flat panel widescreen TV's are 16:9 Old tube TV's are 4:3.

Movies are shot in a wide variety of aspect ratios, 16:9, 2.35, 2.40, 1.78 etc. In deciding what aspect ratio to go with you make a compromise on how you fill your screen. If you go 16:9 then when you watch a movie that is other than 16:9 there will be black bars at the top and bottom of the picture (letter boxing) if you go with a screen that is 2.40 then when you watch a 16:9 program there will be black bars on the sides (pillar boxing). To make matters more confusing there is also CIH that will stretch 16:9 to fill the 2.40 screen. To do CIH you would need an outboard processor and lens system to do this properly.

There is a forum here on AVS that deals with CIH and all types of discussion relating to it. Clickie.

If someone has a better explanation feel free to chime in.

Regards,

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post #639 of 2103 Old 04-25-2010, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

It has to do with aspect ratio. 16:9 is what HDTV's native aspect ratio is. Flat panel widescreen TV's are 16:9 Old tube TV's are 4:3.

Movies are shot in a wide variety of aspect ratios, 16:9, 2.35, 2.40, 1.78 etc. In deciding what aspect ratio to go with you make a compromise on how you fill your screen. If you go 16:9 then when you watch a movie that is other than 16:9 there will be black bars at the top and bottom of the picture (letter boxing) if you go with a screen that is 2.40 then when you watch a 16:9 program there will be black bars on the sides (pillar boxing). To make matters more confusing there is also CIH that will stretch 16:9 to fill the 2.40 screen. To do CIH you would need an outboard processor and lens system to do this properly.

There is a forum here on AVS that deals with CIH and all types of discussion relating to it. Clickie.

If someone has a better explanation feel free to chime in.

Regards,

RTROSE


Great explanation!! I am truly impressed. Now what will a lens system cost to stretch my 16:9 to 2.40? I want a 12' wide screen with the height of a 120" 16:9 screen......make it happen for me

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post #640 of 2103 Old 04-26-2010, 04:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

Great explanation!! I am truly impressed. Now what will a lens system cost to stretch my 16:9 to 2.40? I want a 12' wide screen with the height of a 120" 16:9 screen......make it happen for me

At least someone understands. Now if I could only make it happen for you, oh and me!

Stay tuned.....More sconce selections coming.

Regards,

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post #641 of 2103 Old 04-26-2010, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

Great explanation!! I am truly impressed. Now what will a lens system cost to stretch my 16:9 to 2.40? I want a 12' wide screen with the height of a 120" 16:9 screen......make it happen for me

A 120" diagonal 16:9 screen's height is 59". That would translate to roughly a a 141" wide 2.39:1 screen. To light a 12" wide screen you'll need a pricey projector. You don't need a lens to do this if you are willing to go the zoom route. But for a lens expect to pay around $2k for a basic lens, less for a DIY kit and more for a high end kit with an automated lens sled.

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post #642 of 2103 Old 04-26-2010, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

A 120" diagonal 16:9 screen's height is 59". That would translate to roughly a a 141" wide 2.39:1 screen. To light a 12" wide screen you'll need a pricey projector. You don't need a lens to do this if you are willing to go the zoom route. But for a lens expect to pay around $2k for a basic lens, less for a DIY kit and more for a high end kit with an automated lens sled.

Ok the part I am confused (or lost) with is"You dont need a lens to do this if you are willing to go the zoom route".....please explain for a noob otherwise I appreciate the information.

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post #643 of 2103 Old 04-26-2010, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

Ok the part I am confused (or lost) with is"You dont need a lens to do this if you are willing to go the zoom route".....please explain for a noob otherwise I appreciate the information.

I rather we don't hijack RTrose's thread. Follow the CIH link posted above and read through the CIH faq. If you have additional questions either PM me or post in the CIH forum and we'll get you all the help you need.

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post #644 of 2103 Old 04-26-2010, 06:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

I rather we don't hijack RTrose's thread. Follow the CIH link posted above and read through the CIH faq. If you have additional questions either PM me or post in the CIH forum and we'll get you all the help you need.

I don't mind a hijack as long as it is educational for all..... Iusteve, this CIH stuff can be a little mind bending at first, but keep asking questions and reading....It IS easier to understand than quantum physics.......I swear!

Well here we go again some additional sconce samples.







I heard from my cabinet guy. He reworked some things for me and sent me a new render. He mailed it vs. email so I don't have the new one to post, but to refresh memories here is the general layout.



However I'm rethinking some design features of the kitchenette. My current design calls for a snack bar with two to three bar stools and some pendant lighting. However the way that it is currently set up you would be seated with your back to the theater and I doubt you could even see the screen from there anyway. So I have thought about going with another layout he proposed which will open up the space, still give me what I need and 86 the snack bar which more than likely get very little use.



These are the rough renders so it just mostly for layout purposes.

Regards,

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post #645 of 2103 Old 04-27-2010, 04:14 AM
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Either of those top two sconces could really be gorgeous in the right application. I can see them mounted over some sort of earth tone green wall/fabric.

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post #646 of 2103 Old 04-27-2010, 08:10 AM
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I like the sconces RT, particullarly the one with the fishscale look.

out of curiousity, i probably missed it in your thread, what is the reason for the shorter upper in your cabinet layout.. clearance for a soffit/bulkhead?

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post #647 of 2103 Old 04-27-2010, 07:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

Either of those top two sconces could really be gorgeous in the right application. I can see them mounted over some sort of earth tone green wall/fabric.

I think so too. I am looking for something unusual but not so unusual that it draw attention to itself because it is "just" unusual. If that makes sense. I am planning on a color pallet of blues and grays so the color won't work, but I like the style

Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post

I like the sconces RT, particullarly the one with the fishscale look.

out of curiousity, i probably missed it in your thread, what is the reason for the shorter upper in your cabinet layout.. clearance for a soffit/bulkhead?

Brad


Got to love the patterns of nature fish scales, tiger stripes, snake skin, all beautiful patterns.

The lower cabinet is due to having to clear the soffit.

Here is a pic to help refresh the memory of the space.



Stay tuned more sconces to follow.

Regards,

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post #648 of 2103 Old 05-04-2010, 09:27 AM
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RTROSE,

What software are you using to creat your renderings? From the look of your pics in previous post, your grey cabinets, I could use something like this, might help with getting better visual representations. Thanks.
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post #649 of 2103 Old 05-04-2010, 11:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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RTROSE,

What software are you using to creat your renderings? From the look of your pics in previous post, your grey cabinets, I could use something like this, might help with getting better visual representations. Thanks.

Those renders actually came from my cabinet designer. I'm not sure what he uses for his business. I can check for you if you like. Shoot me a PM if your interested.

Your right, it really helps me visualize what I'm looking for and how it fits into my overall plan.

Regards,

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post #650 of 2103 Old 05-04-2010, 03:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok,

More sconces as contenders.









I have gone to Lowes and looked at the sconces there and there is really nothing there that catches my eye. I'll probably end up in Greenwood/Indy at some point to take a look see, but I imagine I'll be buying online.

Still doing some looking, but I think I'm narrowing it down some.

Regards,

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post #651 of 2103 Old 05-05-2010, 05:13 AM
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I have that very last one. While I like it, it still looks and feels like I bought it at Lowes... lol. So, I'd recommend none of those last ones for you since you're home theatre deserves more than that look!
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post #652 of 2103 Old 05-05-2010, 08:33 AM
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RT,

Of the ones shown to date:
I like the first one (at the top of post #650).

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post #653 of 2103 Old 05-05-2010, 09:34 AM
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RTROSE, check out Hubbardton Forge... Plenty you will find that you like, few will you find that you can afford...

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post #654 of 2103 Old 05-05-2010, 10:29 AM
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1st batch

3rd can be used, the others look too dark imo to be used

2nd batch
2nd for entry way
3rd for bar
4th for ht room

with that rough render

i'd go with a small island with sink..
for cabinets i'd with glass door fridges on the top to keep beer and glasses cool on the botton unde shelf fridge wine coolers..
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post #655 of 2103 Old 05-05-2010, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
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RTROSE, check out Hubbardton Forge... Plenty you will find that you like, few will you find that you can afford...

So true. It gets worse when you start adding their chandeliers to your homes...trust me. My wallet knows.

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post #656 of 2103 Old 05-05-2010, 11:18 AM
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RT,
Have you looked at Minka-Lavery's selection? I found mine there. They have a ton of options:
http://www.minkagroup.net/SearchAdva...57&f=2&catid=0
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post #657 of 2103 Old 05-05-2010, 06:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiahead View Post

RTROSE, check out Hubbardton Forge... Plenty you will find that you like, few will you find that you can afford...

Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

RT,
Have you looked at Minka-Lavery's selection? I found mine there. They have a ton of options:
http://www.minkagroup.net/SearchAdva...57&f=2&catid=0

Thanks for the links guys. Awesome selections.

Hubbaedton Forge has some very beautiful fixtures, however they are pricey. Cathan I can see if you have some of the chandeliers I can see how your wallet would be noticeably lighter!

The Minka-Lavery's are more my speed cost wise and there is actually one of those fixtures I have on my thread here so I'm in the ballpark anyway with this collection.

More to consider. Hmmm.....

Regards,

RTROSE

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post #658 of 2103 Old 05-06-2010, 08:17 AM
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RT,

I ended up going with Minka-Lavery. Seems there are many sellers of this brand.

I found a good selection and my best price here:
http://www.csnstores.com

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post #659 of 2103 Old 05-06-2010, 11:43 AM
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+1 on CSN. I've used them for all of my non-Hub lighting purchases.

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post #660 of 2103 Old 05-06-2010, 12:04 PM
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I've looked at so many sconce images on the internet that I'm going to vomit if I don't find the right one soon! Seems they go from "cheap" to "a work of art", with nothing inbetween!

The "Twinseltown" Theater
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