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post #91 of 1814 Old 08-13-2007, 11:41 PM
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Post 80 looks to be about how I would do it. Just I like the screen closer to the floor and would do a 10" riser to compensate. Looks great can not wait to see how it turns out.

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post #92 of 1814 Old 08-14-2007, 05:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Gonzo, I wasn't planning on any subfloor treatment. Half of the room is up on a riser, which I was going to use pressure treated for all contact points with the concrete. The basement is on a hillside, so really only the uphill wall is under soil. I just don't think I'm a high risk basement for moisture.

Although sound isolation is not a top priority, I do want to do the little things that will help. I'll wait for drywall before risers. This just means I've got to figure out electrical and hvac before I can really start. Doing the riser first was a way for me to be doing something while still in the planning stages. I suppose I could leave the back sides of walls and the ceiling open and that would allow electrical after sheetrock.

Nate, I would also like the riser to be more like 10", but doesn't code dictate risers to be between 7 and 8"? The extra 2" is not worth adding two platforms and doubling the risers.

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post #93 of 1814 Old 08-14-2007, 05:46 PM
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Tony,
Just curious. How long have you lived in the house? If you have been through some big storms (or real rainy weeks) you should have a sense for moisture issues.

I am still very nervous about my basement because it HAS flooded. I think I have corrected the issues, but my sphincter is still real tight

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post #94 of 1814 Old 08-16-2007, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Gonzo, I've had a close eye on moisture in the basement since it was poured about 8 months ago. We have been through a few bouts of 5" plus rainstorms and have not had any issues. I have 100% confidence I won't ever have a flood, but I suppose some "damp spots" could occur.

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post #95 of 1814 Old 08-16-2007, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Can anyone point me to a source for construction sequence. I've done a search and didn't turn up much. I did get this....

----------------------
Subfloor (done)
Drywall (Room was already drywalled)
Riser (done)

Stage - framing (done)
Stage - fill with sand (Fri)
Stage - finish (Fri)

Screen wall (AT screen)

Soffit work

Projector housing

Paint (question on when - painting ceiling)

Treatments (but not finished to fabric)

Hang starfield

Carpet

Molding

Treatments (finish to fabric)

------------------------------------------------------------------

It doesn't put electrical in the sequence though.

Can someone give me a rough outline to follow?

One issue I will have: My brother in law is going to help with HVAC, but can't until this winter. I'd like to make some headway on the room before then. Do you think I could do electrical and sheetrock all but the ceiling (allowing me to then build the riser), prior to HVAC?

Also, I may need to have a subpanel installed for basement circuits. Can I wire the room up and have everything come back to a junction box near the future panel so that I can hook right up when its installed?

To steal a comment I saw on another thread, "Paralysis by analysis". I feel I need to get started on something before paralysis sets in.

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post #96 of 1814 Old 08-19-2007, 02:15 PM - Thread Starter
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I've been wanting to post this for awhile, but can't seem to get my scanner working right. This is the best resolution I'm getting? Anyway, somethings better than nothing.

The top photo was sort of the inspiration for the bar layout. The bottom photo is the overall room inspiration. I like the wall treatments, columns, chairail, color scheme, etc.

I'll try to post a better scan if I ever get it working right.


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post #97 of 1814 Old 08-19-2007, 02:17 PM - Thread Starter
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hahaha.... that's terrible. it looks much worse on the forum than it even did here at the house

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post #98 of 1814 Old 08-19-2007, 02:27 PM - Thread Starter
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So, you know I've been itching to swing a hammer or something....

I went out and got all the electrical boxes and wire, and picked up the first load of sheetrock.

Not too difficult. I used 1/2" in the 4x12 sheets. I was able to get one wall done. That's about all I can do until I build the front wall and finish off the rest of electrical. I'll post my electrical plan when I get a chance. It ended up being 4 circuits. One for general room oulets. Two, for sconces. Three for can lights. Four, for equipment. May add a fifth for two equipment circuits. I've still got to color code the plan so you can make sense of it here.

The next steps should be....

1. finish out electrical
2. Build front wall
3. Frame out rear wall
4. insulate
5. Sheetrock (all but ceiling. I'm leaving that open until later. Need access for HVAC)
4. Riser
5. Stage and screenwall

That's enough for now. I need to view this five steps at a time or else be overwhelmed.


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post #99 of 1814 Old 08-19-2007, 02:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Almost forgot, here's my little helpers. They're more about the popcorn than the work.


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post #100 of 1814 Old 08-19-2007, 02:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's the electrical plan.

One thing not shown is riser lights on the sconce circuit.

I'm very much novice at this, and would appreciate any comments.


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post #101 of 1814 Old 08-19-2007, 03:18 PM
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Tony,

I don't remember you mentioning it but if you are going to have columns, you might want to consider placing your electrical outlets in them along with your lights.

This will help keep the outside noise out.
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post #102 of 1814 Old 08-19-2007, 04:03 PM
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Tony,

This looks like a great a build, just like what I have wanted to do at my place! I'm looking forward to following the build!

Jonathan
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post #103 of 1814 Old 08-19-2007, 07:31 PM
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Tony, if you want a hand with your scanner PM me, I might be able to talk you through it via messages. Let me know what brand/model and what software you're using.

Thanks,
Mike
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post #104 of 1814 Old 08-20-2007, 05:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Dan, Now you mention it!!! The boxes are in---and drywall cut already. Wouldn't be a big deal to change it now, but two reasons come to mind for doing it like I did. One, a sconce on a column will narrow down the room that much more. Two, I like the look of a sconce between columns. I suppose, sound isolation is just not as important to me as it is to most here.

One place that I do want to pay attention to sound traveling, is the ceiling. Our master bedroom is above the theater. I'm going to do double sheetrock and insulation there.

Jonathan, thanks.

Mike, thanks for the offer. I sent you a PM.

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post #105 of 1814 Old 08-20-2007, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

I've been wanting to post this for awhile, but can't seem to get my scanner working right. This is the best resolution I'm getting? Anyway, somethings better than nothing.

Hey, I think the infrared pics are interesting!
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post #106 of 1814 Old 08-20-2007, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Mike! Sometimes you just need someone to point out the obvious. My save settings were set at too high a compression.

Here's the inspiration photos again. This time you can see them.


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post #107 of 1814 Old 08-21-2007, 08:36 AM
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Ahh, yeah, much better

I like the top one because of what they did for the paneling on the wall. Much more interesting than just plain rectangles.

Mike
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post #108 of 1814 Old 08-25-2007, 02:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay, I can't go any further until I decide how to handle the insulation and screenwall.

Here you can see that it is a stairstepping concrete wall, roughly half of which is typical stud construction above grade (for that matter, half of the concrete is above grade too).



The issue I can't resolve is that the stud wall portion is not flush with the concrete face. It is 4" behind the face of concrete.




Based on other threads, I am thinking I will first insulate the existing upper stud wall with fiberglass batts. Then, build another wall that is 4" thick on top of the concrete wall so that I end up with a flush wall (half stud and half concrete). Then, fill the new 4" thick stud portion with more fiberglass batts. Then cover the whole face of wall with rigid 1" foam insulation. Lastly, build a new stud wall from floor to ceiling and fill that with fiberglass batts (with the paper either pulled off or perforated).

In the end, I end up with 3.5"+3.5"+1" rigid foam + 3.5", for a total of an 11.5" thick insulated wall.

Is this making sense? Does it sound appropriate?

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post #109 of 1814 Old 08-25-2007, 04:28 PM
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I think you can bypass this section of studding.

Quote:


Then, build another wall that is 4" thick on top of the concrete wall so that I end up with a flush wall (half stud and half concrete).

Unless I'm mistaken, code allows (please double check because I'm not sure) for you to just build the stud wall that will wind up being your new interior wall. You will still want to completely fill the cavity with insulation though.
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post #110 of 1814 Old 08-25-2007, 04:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Dan, I see what you're saying, but isn't that section of wall necessary to give support for the rigid foam? it does seem like its overbuilt just for supporting the rigid foam.

So, I'll pack the existing stud wall with fiberglass batts that are 8" thick (out to flush with the face of concrete). Then, put the 1" rigid foam and then my stud wall.

The top half of the rigid foam board would only be supported by the fiberglass batts on one side and the new stud wall on the inside.

I'm soliciting ideas here

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post #111 of 1814 Old 08-25-2007, 04:55 PM
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I am not sure about code, but this is what seems to make sense to me. I think I would just cut and fit the foam to the existing studs above the concrete. Then cut and fit rigid foam onto the cement portion. Then build the new stud wall 1" off the rigid foam that is on concrete portion. Then just insulate the new stud wall. An air gap will not hurt you. Just make sure you have only one craft face on the most internal wall.

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post #112 of 1814 Old 08-25-2007, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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So, I am overthinking this then.

One vote for filling the cavity, one for not. I think filling it makes me more comfortable. I can't think of a problem with filling it?

I think I'm going to follow Gonzo's suggestions but will fill the entire cavity with batting.

Well...my ears are smoking. I'm off to watch a movie. Yes, I know my construction pace will be slower with the projector operable.

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post #113 of 1814 Old 08-25-2007, 05:52 PM
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There is no problem with filling the cavity, it will just increase the R value. I have found the theory that the PJ hanging slows progress is not true in my case. We used to watch movies at night on a smaller TV, now we watch them in the theater. The only change is the location

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post #114 of 1814 Old 08-25-2007, 06:14 PM
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I think Gonzo and I are saying the same thing. I filled all of the cavities in my walls and one of them is right at 10". Like Gonzo, I don't think a 1" space is going to hurt anything, I just felt better filling the entire cavity.
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post #115 of 1814 Old 08-30-2007, 06:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Did the front wall insulation over the last few days. 1" rigid foam glued to the concrete, and R13 in the studs above. All of the foam is not glued in place yet, which is why it looks sloppy in the photo.



I've also got all my lumber here for the false wall in front of this, which will also get R13.

How should I attach the bottom plate of the wall to the concrete? My contractor had used 22cal gun cartridges, but I don't have that. Would you use concrete anchors? maybe every 4'? I am using pressure treated and putting it on that foam sill insulation stuff.

Slowly coming together.

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post #116 of 1814 Old 08-30-2007, 06:32 AM
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Tony

Before you cover up the foam get yourself some foil duct tape and tape all the joints of the foam board. I am not sure how cold it gets where you are but it sure mad a huge difference in my basement by spending $5 on some tape to keep the cold air from sneaking in between the sheets of foam

If you have a hammer drill use tapcon concrete screws they hold real well

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post #117 of 1814 Old 08-30-2007, 06:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Woolly. I will get some tape. The foam board has tounge and groove on it, so by adding the tape I should have as tight a seal as possible. That darn adhesive to attach to the wall goes fast! I used a whole tube for just one sheet.

I don't have a hammer drill, but have used masonry bits in a standard drill. I think I can get anchors in that way too.

Question: Should I use rigid foam board over the top of the concrete wall? There is about a 4" wide section along the top of the wall that is exposed.

By the way, I'm in Greenville, SC, near the intersection of South Carolina, Georgia, NOrth Carolina and Tennessee. Our climate is considered mild. I want to take all reasonable measure in insulation, but don't think I'm designing for the extreme.

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post #118 of 1814 Old 08-30-2007, 06:49 AM
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Tony
Are building the false wall right in front of this wall so that you have a flat wall?

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post #119 of 1814 Old 08-30-2007, 06:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes. And also that it gives me a wall to run electrical and place outlets, etc.

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post #120 of 1814 Old 08-30-2007, 07:06 AM
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Tony
You mite as well put the foam on the top overkill is the way to go

Man i wish I had the width of your room at my place so I could go 4 across with the directors

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