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post #181 of 1820 Old 06-07-2008, 05:02 PM
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You guys have too much time on your hands.

Wait that will be me in a few years with a HT in this forum itf it is here that long!

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post #182 of 1820 Old 06-08-2008, 06:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Too much time on our hands? You do realize that this thread is now a year old and I'm about 10% of the way through my build?

I haven't mentioned, but I am at the point of needing a "theme". I've struggled with this for some time and have settled on one now. I actually need to credit the guys that came over for the home theater meet. They helped pull the thought out of me. I'm from New Orleans, and wanted my theme to bring back childhood memories, so I've chosen a "French Quarter" theater theme. What is that exactly? I'm not sure. I'm thinking a gas lamp look for sconces, maybe some wrought iron railing? color scheme maybe a bit medeterainian?

I've also got a good inspiration photo for the entry. I'd credit the owner, but got it from a BigMouthinDC post and he got it from somewhere else too.



I will likely follow it pretty closely, other than color scheme. Will also go to one column on each side. I really like the doors and will follow those as well. Probably on double swing hinges.

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post #183 of 1820 Old 06-09-2008, 08:15 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm thinking of rough framing the bar now. On one hand, it would make a convenient workbench while constructing the rest of the room. On the other, it could just be in the way. Any thoughts from you guys that have been through it?

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post #184 of 1820 Old 06-09-2008, 11:00 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm also studying my side wall elevations. I was planning acoustic treatment from the floor up 48". If I do this in the rear of the room, it will have to step up with the riser. This starts to look like its "squashing" the sconces in the rear of the room. Do you think I could get away with keeping it the same height all the way across the room? Essentially, only 36" high in the riser area of the room.

I might would opt for this approach even if a slight audio compromise. I think the aesthetics would be more important. Aren't they sometimes?

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post #185 of 1820 Old 06-09-2008, 06:12 PM
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The acoustic treatment needs to reach ear level.


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post #186 of 1820 Old 06-09-2008, 07:49 PM
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I love those doors. The marquis is excellent too. I know they are not yours, but they look great!

I wonder about soundproofing those bad boys, though.

CJ

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post #187 of 1820 Old 06-09-2008, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Dan, the rear bar is going to be at 36" height (same as a kitchen counter), using 24" tall bar stools. I just sat in ours that are upstairs, and ear level for me is at 56". If I put the Linacoustic up that high, I think the decor will look funny. I'll be left with about 2.5' of space above. Heck, it would come right up to the sconces too.

I can stay at higher than ear level all the way back to the riser, which is halfway (16'). I've got to believe that most of the reflection issues are cured by the time you're 16' from the speakers? no? Maybe I can just keep a shorter barstool around for people that are troubled by the acoustics. Except that they won't see the screen on a shorter stool........oh brother, this is a very complex hobby.

CJ, I'm sure they are a poor choice for soundproofing. I'm not going to much trouble to soundproof to start with, so the doors won't be a real factor. Plus, they are COOL !

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post #188 of 1820 Old 06-10-2008, 07:52 AM
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Hey , I love the idea of French Quarter. I think you need a marquee above it that stciks out, like a triangle. Big low wattage bulbs. Fluer de lis in the wrought iron.
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post #189 of 1820 Old 06-10-2008, 09:49 AM
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Tony,

I realize that ear height puts your acoustic treatment above where you want to be but for the treatment to be effective, ear height is imperative. Remember when you were at my place and I had you listen to the ringing (snapped fingers) above and below the treatment?

I guess it's reasonable to believe that those seated at the bar won't necessarily be listening critically. I was just reminding you that there will be a significant difference in the sound at the bar compared to your front row. That back row will probably sound as if there is very little treatment or none at all.

One home theater I visited in Highlands had the treatment at the top of the wall rather than the bottom. He did it that way because he felt that many people would be standing in his theater. He made sure the treatment went below ear level while seated in the front row. I felt he had a bit of a first reflection problem but maybe that was just me.

You might want to ask for suggestions in the Acoustical Treatment Master Thread. Terry Montlick, Dennis Erskine, Ethan Winer and several other acoustic professionals and hobbyists reply in that thread on a regular basis. I'm sure a couple of them have encountered this issue in the past and will offer ideas on how to solve the problem. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2&goto=newpost


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post #190 of 1820 Old 06-10-2008, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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jp, good ideas, now I need drawings!

Dan, thanks for the input. I will ask the question on the acoustic treatment thread.

Hot as %^&$ here right now. Our 4th day in a row right at 100 !!! The basement is a bit warm too. Certainly not the nice cool place to work that it was a few weeks ago.

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post #191 of 1820 Old 06-10-2008, 01:07 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm also having a rough time with my screen wall. I want the screen flush on the back wall, to take advantage of all the depth I have in the room. But I also want the speakers and sub all hidden. My plan was to have false walls only on the sides of the screen. But this will lead to a screen in a shadow box sort of thing. I don't know if that's wise or not?

I contacted SMX for an AT screen. Most on this forum rave about the reasonable price, but I was left unimpressed. I suppose it's all relative. Anyway, I won't be getting one. Maybe some day in the future.

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post #192 of 1820 Old 06-10-2008, 01:13 PM
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Hey Tony,

The French Quarter theme sounds great...and I really like the entry style shown in the photo!

Tom


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post #193 of 1820 Old 06-13-2008, 07:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Glad you like it Tom!

I started framing in the entry. An issue I'm having is that the area just adjacent to the entry is going to be pool / ping pong. I wanted to do the radial steps as drawn in the plan, but I'm concerned about a tripping hazard for ping pong. So, I framed it out as one rectangular (8'x14" tread) step. I'm thinking I'm thinking I will try to visually get the radius in with carpet on the floor, and the overhead marquee.

I hope to frame the bar over the weekend. I picked up the lumber yesterday. I've decided to eliminate the part of the bar on the middle row side. So it will be a one sided bar. The middle row will now be a sofa and not swivel chairs. My wife feels a sofa is more condusive for the family to "cuddle" together, and she's probably right.

The bar will be 10' long with a radius. It will be 1' deep on the ends and radius out to 2' deep in the middle. As said earlier, top of bar will be 36".

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post #194 of 1820 Old 06-13-2008, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

I'm also having a rough time with my screen wall. I want the screen flush on the back wall, to take advantage of all the depth I have in the room. But I also want the speakers and sub all hidden. My plan was to have false walls only on the sides of the screen. But this will lead to a screen in a shadow box sort of thing. I don't know if that's wise or not?

I contacted SMX for an AT screen. Most on this forum rave about the reasonable price, but I was left unimpressed. I suppose it's all relative. Anyway, I won't be getting one. Maybe some day in the future.


Check out BritinVA for a stage design with a flush screen and hidden speakers. I noticed your plans in post 66 indicate cabinets on the front end which I would avoid like the plague to avoid resonances.

Shadow box design is a good plan and LarryChapin (Spell?) has a good example.


SMX fabric was only a blow out bargain if you got in early on his first few shipments before he created his company and discontinued fabric only sales. A similar fabric is now available from http://www.seymourav.com/ Ruben states it is a little different then his weave.

If you aren't putting speakers behind the screen there are probably better alternatives for DIY screens.


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post #195 of 1820 Old 06-13-2008, 11:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Big, good to have you back on the thread!

Thanks for the link to seymourav. I read the website and contacted them for a quote. It does look like getting the fabric and a DIY frame will put AT back into my budget.

Post #66 did show cabinets. It was my effort to hide the center channel. But I understand the audio effects and will not do it.

If I go with the AT screen, then all equipment will be behind it, and the false wall will be out 2.5'. I will also go with a 12' in screen width, which means my front row will be at 1x's screen width. I don't think that's too bad, considering nearly 100% of viewing will be Blue Ray or broadcast HD.

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post #196 of 1820 Old 06-13-2008, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Shadow box design is a good plan and LarryChapin (Spell?) has a good example.

Think its LarryChanin...

Bud


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post #197 of 1820 Old 06-13-2008, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Think its LarryChanin...Bud


thanks, found his page:

http://mysite.verizon.net/res8ycu4/id4.html


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post #198 of 1820 Old 06-13-2008, 02:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I did spend some time on his page. That does look promising. I'll PM Larry with some specific questions.

The AT is still my first choice if not too expensive (which seymourav doesn't seem to be).

Big, I framed up the main wall of the bar just now (10' long). I'm planning on having a 12" leg on either end on one side, and a 6" leg on both ends of the front side. There will also be one 6" leg in the middle of one side (I got this from one of your photos). All of the bottom plates will be screwed down to the riser. Do you think this gives enough stability to the bar? Seems like it will be shakey to me. Maybe once the sheetrock is on it will "tighten" it up? Any thoughts? I can draw a plan if that wasn't clear.

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post #199 of 1820 Old 06-13-2008, 02:27 PM
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A sketch would certainly help.

Are you planning a one or two level bar?

On thing I would do differently is minimize the middle leg and go for bracket supports. see this Pic





from this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1022589


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post #200 of 1820 Old 06-13-2008, 02:45 PM - Thread Starter
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It was going to be a two level, but now is one level. Good idea for the brackets in the middle, I'll do that.

The plans back on post#66 were showing a lower level bar on the front side of the wall to serve the middle row of swivel chairs. We have since changed the middle row to a couch and decided to do away with that part of the bar. We are now planning small coffee tables in front of the couch. It is probably time I update the floorplan.

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post #201 of 1820 Old 06-13-2008, 04:18 PM
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You should plan at least a 12 inch overhang at the ends if it is curved (small at the ends)

My bar top is 18 inches overall at the ends 25 at the middle.

Also you might want to think about using plywood on at least one side of the base (you can put drywall over if you want) that will give a little more rigidity to the frame support.



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post #202 of 1820 Old 06-13-2008, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks BigMouthinDC! That's very helpful.

Here's a few photos so you can see what I've done today.







It's framed 10' long and 15" in depth. By the time I do overhang, the top should be 10'6" wide, 18" deep on ends, and 24" deep in the middle. So, I think I've framed right into the figures you suggest. It feels pretty steady, but I may still need to put the little short walls on the front side as well.

The isle on either side measures 43.5" now, so after the wall treatment takes an inch and the bar top takes another 3", I should be at about 39.5" for the finished isle. It feels generous at 43.5", so that should work out fine.

In the last photo you can also see the step I framed to the entrance. It looks to simple to me without the radius, so I guess I'll do that after all. I'd like to match the radius on the entry step to the radius on the bar top. I hope it works that way. Oh, same radius on the front stage too.

Off to watch "Atonement".

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post #203 of 1820 Old 06-13-2008, 05:47 PM
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It looks good, Tony.


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post #204 of 1820 Old 06-13-2008, 06:48 PM
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In the last photo you can also see the step I framed to the entrance. It looks to simple to me without the radius, so I guess I'll do that after all. I'd like to match the radius on the entry step to the radius on the bar top. I hope it works that way. Oh, same radius on the front stage too.

You've put so much work into this project I almost hate to criticize that step up design...but I got a big mouth.

Putting a step up right at the threshold isn't a very wise idea...in fact I am not certain it is code legal. It will be very dangerous for those leaving the theater and might not look down for that step down.

Given your constraint of not wanting to extend too much into the game room I think I would do some surgery on the riser and take a bite out of the riser right inside the theater entrance (half moon maybe) have one level equal to your step outside the theater then another up to the level of the riser but do it inside the theater and put step lights on the vertical portion of the step.

Your design also prevents the use of two way swing door that you said you wanted.


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post #205 of 1820 Old 06-13-2008, 08:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Glad you like it Dan.

Big, I need a big mouth around, no worries. I came upstairs halfway through "Atonement", and read your post. You had my mind racing through the rest of the movie. I'm trying to figure how I'm not going to have to chop into the riser.

As for code, I'm not certain what it is either, but I do have the same situation in three other locations in the house that all passed code (basement door to steps, garage door to steps, and front door to porch).

I do understand that it may be unsafe regardless of code. At the very least, I'll be sure it is well lit, but I may brainstorm another option. I could come out into the gameroom if it comes to that. It would only be an issue for long shots in ping pong. And, I can always put my opponent on that side.

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post #206 of 1820 Old 06-14-2008, 06:03 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm a little slow but it just dawned on me why you commented that the double swing door would be dangerous.

I've been walking in and out of all our doors in the house. In the ones that open to a step, the door swing is always away from the step. That makes sense to me now. Pulling the door away, causes you to take a step back and look first. If it would swing out into the step, you could push your way through in one motion and take a step before you looked.

I'm thinking that my solution will be lighting and an in-swing door.

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post #207 of 1820 Old 06-14-2008, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

I'm thinking that my solution will be lighting and an in-swing door.

Contrasting color (light to dark) carpet will help as well.

Bear in mind that your end result will not be "resale" friendly.


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post #208 of 1820 Old 06-14-2008, 10:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Good idea on the carpet color change. I'll do that.

Resale....never say never, but I ain't movin' unless they pry me out of here.

I got the step done this morning.





And my helper today...


I'm happy with how it came out.

Next up, I need to start resolving the screen wall.

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post #209 of 1820 Old 06-15-2008, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't know why I didn't take the advice of trying "SketchUp" sooner. It was really as easy as everyone claimed! Here are a few images of what I've done with only two hours time. That includes downloading and the learning curve. The colors and materials aren't right, and some of the geometry is still off, but I was just so darn proud of it I had to post the "works in progress". It should be mandatory for everyone to do one of these before building.






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post #210 of 1820 Old 06-16-2008, 01:42 PM
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Looks great (the real and virtual.) I use AutoCAD professionally so I've yet to try sketchup, but it amazes me the things people can do with it in such a quick time. I really should look at it if for nothing else but quick mock-ups.

Have you let your helper actually nail anything together? I still remember when I visited some friend of the family with my mom when he was building a restaurant or something and he let me hammer in a nail. I felt soooo important. I suppose it may have been because it was a business, but really I'm sure just the memory of actually helping build the place (at least in my mind I helped, now as a person around building all day I realize that a kid hammering in a nail is definitely going to slow down the progress for a bit) was so cool. If he hasn't hammered in a nail yet find a place to let him, he may just remember it forever.

I love NEW technology, it makes the stuff I can afford even cheaper.
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