DRYLOK and basement question - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 09-10-2007, 11:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi folks,

I would just like to know if it's safe to apply DRYLOK or any other product to seal walls and floors. I've seen good reviews on the product but I would like to know first if it's safe to apply it everywhere such as walls and floor and anything we think water might come in.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 21 Old 09-11-2007, 05:07 AM
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It is certainly safe for concrete walls. I am not sure if it is designed for use on floors. Probably an epoxy based product is better for floors. If you are planning a subfloor (Delta Fl, Plankton, Dricore) then you do not need to paint the floor.

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post #3 of 21 Old 09-11-2007, 06:01 AM
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Drylock is safe to apply to walls. It says right on the bucket "not for floors"

Beware of which floor sealer you pick. A neighbors contractor used a solvent/spirit based sealer for their basement and they had to move to a hotel for two days until the odor went away.

It was so strong that when the contractor put some fans in the windows I could smell the solvent inside my house across the street. That is about 200 ft.

Another thing about DRYLOK and other similar products they work great in mitigating the humidity that enters a basement through the porous concrete walls . They also will stop a certain amount of leaking that a temporary excess build up of water that might occur.
But they will not solve fundamental drainage and ground water problems. Those have to be addressed first if you want a dry basement.
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post #4 of 21 Old 09-11-2007, 06:18 AM
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There is a Drylok that you can use on floors. I used it under my Dricore floor.
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post #5 of 21 Old 09-11-2007, 07:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Drylock is safe to apply to walls. It says right on the bucket "not for floors"

Beware of which floor sealer you pick. A neighbors contractor used a solvent/spirit based sealer for their basement and they had to move to a hotel for two days until the odor went away.

It was so strong that when the contractor put some fans in the windows I could smell the solvent inside my house across the street. That is about 200 ft.

Another thing about DRYLOK and other similar products they work great in mitigating the humidity that enters a basement through the porous concrete walls . They also will stop a certain amount of leaking that a temporary excess build up of water that might occur.
But they will not solve fundamental drainage and ground water problems. Those have to be addressed first if you want a dry basement.

So far we have been very dry even during last 3 week's storm. It rained hard and continuous for 1 week. A lot of people in our area got flooding.

Thanks for the tips too.
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post #6 of 21 Old 09-11-2007, 07:54 AM
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Here is an old thread I had on this topic.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=795523

I can't remember the name of the product I wound up using. I was intruiged by the Kryton product mentioned, but couldn't source it locally and was on a timeline. With Drylock you need to consider if you have cement or masonry in your basement.
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post #7 of 21 Old 09-11-2007, 08:47 AM
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Drylok is a good product but I think the Ames product I used is far better. I used the block & wall it goes on real thick. Here is the link. http://www.amesresearch.com/basement...TJAodmzLk2w#bw

check out post #5 The Copper Fields Cinema

I ordered it and had it at my door in 2 days

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post #8 of 21 Old 09-11-2007, 04:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

Drylok is a good product but I think the Ames product I used is far better. I used the block & wall it goes on real thick. Here is the link. http://www.amesresearch.com/basement...TJAodmzLk2w#bw

check out post #5 The Copper Fields Cinema

I ordered it and had it at my door in 2 days

Thanks for sharing your experience. That helps a lot. How big did you cover? How many cans did you end up using?
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post #9 of 21 Old 09-11-2007, 06:07 PM
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I used drylock for floors and it's working great. Look for the Low Odor type, it's 4 bucks more, but it is worth the money. I made the mistake of getting a gallon of the regular and had to keep all the windows in my house open for days.
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post #10 of 21 Old 09-11-2007, 06:34 PM
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v1rtu0s1ty

I used two 5 gallon buckets on my walls I wanted it pretty heavy so that if my walls did crack again I hopefully wont spring a leak The ames folks are pretty helpful if you call them. They can tell you how much you will need

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post #11 of 21 Old 09-11-2007, 07:47 PM
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I thought drylok is for cinderblock foundations only? I read it shouldnt be used on a poured foundation.
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post #12 of 21 Old 09-11-2007, 08:06 PM
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From their product sheet:

"Latex Base DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer is a low odor, ready-mixed masonry waterproofing paint. Specially formulated to waterproof interior, exterior, above or below grade masonry walls. Ideal for use on cinder and concrete block, poured concrete walls, stucco, brick, retaining walls, basement walls, birdbaths and fishponds."

It's been on my poured concrete walls for 12 years without a problem.
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post #13 of 21 Old 01-22-2008, 07:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

From their product sheet:

"Latex Base DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer is a low odor, ready-mixed masonry waterproofing paint. Specially formulated to waterproof interior, exterior, above or below grade masonry walls. Ideal for use on cinder and concrete block, poured concrete walls, stucco, brick, retaining walls, basement walls, birdbaths and fishponds."

It's been on my poured concrete walls for 12 years without a problem.

EDIT: I'll just go with LATEX.

LATEX BASE DRYLOK® MASONRY WATERPROOFER

Latex Base DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer is a low odor, water clean-up formula for waterproofing all interior, exterior, above or below grade masonry walls, cinder and concrete blocks, stucco, brick, retaining walls, basements, concrete swimming pools and foundation. No pre-mixing or pre-wetting necessary.

* A masonry waterproofer paint
* Ready mixed
* Tintable
* Low Odor
* Non-flammable
* Guaranteed to stop water even under pressure
* Withstands 10 pounds of hydrostatic pressure, greater than a wall of water 22 feet high
* Clean up with soap and water
* Applies easily with brush and/or roller
* Complies with all current VOC and/or VOS
* 10-year Warranty
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post #14 of 21 Old 01-22-2008, 08:26 PM
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So, a poured foundation can be coated with Drylock and then pad and carpet on top?

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post #15 of 21 Old 01-22-2008, 10:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

So, a poured foundation can be coated with Drylock and then pad and carpet on top?

I'll search other's thread. Thanks.

I'll go with latex. The smell isn't really that bad according to the description. Yes, you can apply it to poured concrete. They claim that they use it for swimming pools.
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post #16 of 21 Old 01-23-2008, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

So, a poured foundation can be coated with Drylock and then pad and carpet on top?

Poured foundation walls, not floor.

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post #17 of 21 Old 01-23-2008, 06:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

Poured foundation walls, not floor.

I'll contact DRYLOK later and ask about it. But I think it should work especially they mentioned swimming pools. They didn't mention swimming pool walls. But what about swimming pools that doesn't have any corners. Anyways, I'll keep you posted.

Thanks.
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post #18 of 21 Old 01-23-2008, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remax View Post

I thought drylok is for cinderblock foundations only? I read it shouldnt be used on a poured foundation.

In my experience drylock is not for poured foundations but I guess you could put it on the walls for piece of mind, but IMO it is a waste of time.
I would concentrate more on moving water from the downspouts > away from the house.

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post #19 of 21 Old 01-23-2008, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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BADABING!!! BAMBAMBAM!!!

FYI...

Quote:


Hello,

Thank you for contacting us. In regard to your question, we do not recommend using the DRYLOK Masonry Wateproofer on the floor as it is not designed to accept any kind of foot traffic or pressure and will begin to break down over time. The product that you want to use is a clear sealer called DRYLOK Concrete Protector with SaltLok. It is a penetrating sealer that will soak into the pores of the floor to stop the moisture and dampness from coming up through.

We recommend that the floor be bare, clean and dry. Apply one coat of the DRYLOK Concrete Protector to the floor, and it will seal up and solidify any powdering masonry as well as making the floor resistant to chemicals and spills, etc.

Apply one coat to the floor by brush, roller or sprayer. Allow the Protector to cure 6 hours for light foot traffic, 24 hours for normal traffic, and 48 hours
before painting over with a latex based paint or laying carpeting. Be sure the
air and surface temperatures are 50 degrees F or higher when applying. If the floor is too cold the product will not be able to cure and will not be able to form its waterproof seal.

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post #20 of 21 Old 01-23-2008, 03:10 PM
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Nice work. That clears up any confusion.

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post #21 of 21 Old 02-16-2008, 09:42 AM
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i have an home that is about 50yr old it has a celler door that leads to outside from family room down stairs. within that area there is cinder block walls which are starting to leak when it rains the cement walls are painted .my question is would drylok work for this problem and would we have to remove the paint
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