Paint Overlap Marks Advice - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 06:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi All,

Need some advice on a problem I ran into while painting my theater area.

I am painting red wine color in my theater area, it is flat. I have put on three coats so far, the drywalls have been primed with a primer/sealant. The problem is, even after three coats of paint I still see overlap marks on the walls. I am not sure what I am doing wrong, or should I put on another coat. Any help is greatly appreciated.

regards,
Sreedhar
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post #2 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 06:59 AM
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I've noticed there is a lot of difference in the results depending on the quality of the paint. I recently used some $50 per gallon Sherwin-Williams guaranteed to cover in one coat satin latex. It was very different from some Wal-Mart paint I had used previously. Very different. What quality level of paint are you using?
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post #3 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 07:09 AM
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Make sure you are using a quality roller. I used a 3/8 inch nap. Red/Burgandy can be difficult to paint evenly. Make sure you do NOT press too hard on the roller. If you do, you will get paint squeezed on the roller edges. Let the roller do the work. I painted my ceiling black (which can be difficult) and I did it in one coat. No roller marks. I used Lowe's Valspar Flat Black Magic. Take your time and recharge your roller often.

Good luck.
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post #4 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 07:10 AM - Thread Starter
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I am using the Olympic Premium paint from Lowes.

Thanks....
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post #5 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 07:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Make sure you are using a quality roller. I used a 3/8 inch nap. Red/Burgandy can be difficult to paint evenly. Make sure you do NOT press too hard on the roller. If you do, you will get paint squeezed on the roller edges. Let the roller do the work. I painted my ceiling black (which can be difficult) and I did it in one coat. No roller marks. I used Lowe's Valspar Flat Black Magic. Take your time and recharge your roller often.

Good luck.

Thank you for the advice, I will try this.
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post #6 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sreedhart View Post

I am using the Olympic Premium paint from Lowes.

Thanks....

No experience with that brand. One would think it would be good, however.
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post #7 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 07:23 AM
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I'm a huge Sherwin Williams Super Paint fan. Just redid our entire first floor and used several moderately dark colors and it covered fantastically. I also love Zinsser BIN for a primer - but you need an organic respirator and no one home when you use it.

Also - get quality Purdy 3/8" nap rollers - don't use cheapie rollers.

~Bill
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post #8 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 07:29 AM
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Use a very high quality roller, preferably, IMO, one with a wool nap.

I used a 1/2 nap wool roller with flat matte mouse ears black and ended up with no roller marks. The thing looked like a shaggy dog while in use, but somehow it applied paint evenly and smoothly.
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post #9 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccubeman View Post

Use a very high quality roller, preferably, IMO, one with a wool nap.

I used a 1/2 nap wool roller with flat matte mouse ears black and ended up with no roller marks. The thing looked like a shaggy dog while in use, but somehow it applied paint evenly and smoothly.

are these available in the regular home improvement stores (Home Depot / Lowes) ?
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post #10 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 07:41 AM
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Yes, I got mine at Lowes
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post #11 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Yes, I got mine at Lowes

Thank you... just checked your bar build pics, great work....
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post #12 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 08:28 AM
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Virtually impossible not to have roller marks with flat paint. Benjamin Moore is a great great quality paint but on my ceiling I could not eliminate all of the marks. The best way to reduce their appearance is to just leave all the lights off........ Just kidding . Seriously ,the best way to reduce them is high quality paint and keep a wet edge.

Art

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iRule rules my theater
 

"If she's amazing she won't be easy,if she's easy she won't be amazing"

 

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post #13 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 09:29 AM
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Make sure when you paint you do a wall all at once, and make sure you leave a wet edge, meaning don't let an edge dry and then try to start at the dry edge, you will get roller line mark.

Its best to do a small section (4' wide) from ceiling to floor, in that section i do the top and bottom seperately making "W"s to coat the wall. Then after it is painted, then take the roller (without adding paint) and move it from the ceiling to the floor, one roller width at a time over the area you just painted, to remove any beads and smooth out the finish. Next then start the next section from the wet edge you left. Only stop when you are done or you get to a edge in the wall.

And DONT paint over dry paint unless you are putting on a completely new coat.

"If the world didn't suck, we'd all fly off."
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post #14 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 09:38 AM
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Was the primer tinted? For a dark red color, have the primer tinted a shade below what the final paint color will be. It will save you from having to put 3-4 coats on the wall. It should only take 1 coat if you are putting it over a tinted primer.

I found this out the hard way.
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post #15 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 10:25 AM
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Some folks in my build thread gave me some great advice. One of things not mentioned here yet that really helped me out was adding Floetrol to the paint. It helps keep it wet longer and go on smoother. You can buy it at Lowes, Home Depot or pretty much any paint store.

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post #16 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 10:42 AM
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Regarding the tinted primer.... NEVER tint to a shade below the intended color ( ex for red don't tint to red which gives you a pink primer) unless you want to put about 4 or 5 final coats on...

ALWAYS and I mean ALWAYS tint your primer for dark colors to a shade of GRAY. Darkness of gray depends on darkness of final color. Using gray will ensure a 1 or 2 coat final color with even the hardest dark colors like deep red and maroons.

I've made this mistake and you will always get the advise at the big box home centers to tint to the same color. There is a reason pro painters and the pro centers (sherwin, ben etc) always recommend GRAY primer... In fact look towards the auto industry... Ever seen a car that wasn't primed gray? They know what they are doing.
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post #17 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 11:15 AM
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Many good points in this thread regarding painting technique as well as some good brands of paint.

That being said I have found Martin Senour paint to be the best paint HANDS DOWN. There is no substitute for the quality of this paint. Yes it costs a few bucks more and yes you have to find a dealer, but it is the good stuff. I also use a 3/8 nap roller (Purdy brand).
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post #18 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your advice and opinions, here is what I am planning on doing

1. Get a high quality roller 1/2 nap
2. keep a wet edge always before starting the next section
3. As I have already started with the Olympic premium paint and into 3 coats with it, I will use the same for this time also

I will let everyone know the results....
Thank you.

regards,
Sreedhar
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post #19 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sreedhart View Post

Thank you all for your advice and opinions, here is what I am planning on doing

1. Get a high quality roller 1/2 nap
2. keep a wet edge always before starting the next section
3. As I have already started with the Olympic premium paint and into 3 coats with it, I will use the same for this time also

I will let everyone know the results....
Thank you.

regards,
Sreedhar

my biggest painting mishap was running out of paint when I still had a few touch-ups to do.......I did the touch-ups with a new can of paint. Those touch-ups soon became a new coat of paint for the entire room.

Lesson: Paint is for the most part cheap plan to buy more than you think you need and then buy a little bit more.
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post #20 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 05:55 PM
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I only painted the ceiling but that was enough.
Benjamin-Moore 2 coats flat sealer\\primer 1/2 tinted, 3 finish coats, flat 18% to Kodak gray scale.
Roll from dry to wet in a W pattern.
Painted the first 5 feet out from the screen in flat black too.

Don't ever touch the surface as it will shows marks even after it's dry.
Don't look at it too much as that will leave marks too.
Don't install too many lights and keep them dimmed.
Flat paint is an unforgiving pain in the a$$ no 2 ways about.

 

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post #21 of 28 Old 10-05-2007, 07:59 PM
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I had a lot of trouble getting a coat in my HT room I was happy with. I added a product called Floetrol to the paint and it helped immensely. Pretty much eliminated the roller marks I had been getting before. And it also made the paint a lot more touch-up friendly, it blends a lot nicer with the Floetrol than without.
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post #22 of 28 Old 10-06-2007, 05:48 PM
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Recently painted over a 20' wide and 20' high wall previously covered by a southwestern theme mural, adobe houses with windows, etc. Looked great in a new england home .

Used a "gingersnap" colored paint - essentially a medium/dark red/brown. Used C2 brand paint - great color choices - expensive. Recommended by local dealer I trust - they sell this paint and B Moore. Use flat paint to hide the various mural layers from telegraphing through (they overlayed with masks to create the mural creating varying surface textures and patterns).

I used a Zinzer Sealer Primer tinted to a medium grey.

Two coats covered great and only in very direct sun can you see the underlying irregularity. Don't see any brush marks. Used medium 3/8 good quality roller and always kept a wet edge; and yes, put on the coat and don't mess with it until dry.

db
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post #23 of 28 Old 10-06-2007, 07:01 PM
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You're pressing too hard with the roller.

"The dream never dies, just the dreamer."

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post #24 of 28 Old 10-06-2007, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milt99 View Post

...Don't look at it too much as that will leave marks too...

That was funny! Thanks.
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post #25 of 28 Old 10-07-2007, 06:49 AM
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For those of you going with a dark red color I had very good luck using Benjamin Moore Aura paint with a Matte finish (not quite flat but not bad although it's a bit expensive ~50/gallon). It is a self-priming paint and they recommended not priming my new drywall (paperless densarmor) and just go with the paint. I did two coats of dark red without any primer and it looks great. In fact 80% of what I did looked great after the first coat and if I was more careful with the first coat I might not have needed the second. The paint dries very fast (~1hr or so) but it was recommended that I do all the cut-in first then use the roller after the cut-in areas were dry. They even said you could wait for up to a week before rolling. I didn't wait that long but it did seem very forgiving if you didn't keep a nice wet edge. It may have cost more per gallon but I saved on primer and the typical 4-5 coats that everyone always talks about for red paint. If you doing a dark red I would recommend getting a sample and see how you like it.
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post #26 of 28 Old 10-07-2007, 12:01 PM - Thread Starter
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came back to update the results, here is what I did

1. 1/2 nap wool roller
2. same Olympic premium paint
3. avoided any pressure while rolling
4. always keep a wet edge

The results are much better now, the lap marks have faded away, ofcourse not at zero.... most of it since I know I can see them. I am happy with the way it turned out....

would like to thank all of you for your suggestions, it helped me a lot.

regards,
Sreedhar
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post #27 of 28 Old 10-07-2007, 07:38 PM
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why do you guys go with flat paint and not a semi gloss??? Am I missing something?
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post #28 of 28 Old 10-07-2007, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djmas View Post

why do you guys go with flat paint and not a semi gloss??? Am I missing something?

Reflections my lad, reflections.
Trying to create the black hole effect.
Even flat black paint has some reflectivity.

 

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