Cover wood with drywall mud - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 11-19-2007, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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All the walls in my HT room are already covered in drywall, so what i'm talking about is "inside" the outer layer of drywall.
At the front of my theatre, I'm buidling some arches, made them out of plywood & masonite (for the arch part). I'm going to be doing a stone texture using drywall mud & sand, so there's going to be a relatively thick layer of drywall mud no matter what.

What I'm wondering is if i should put a layer or drywall over the wood first. I tried putting some drywall mud on some of the wood i've been using and it seems to stick really well, so i think it would work without the drywall. I'd probably use those drywall corner beads to get a hard edge.

Should i put a layer of drywall first?
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post #2 of 9 Old 11-19-2007, 10:55 AM
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If the wood beams are load bearing or part of the structure, I suspect there's an increased potential for cracking the mud if/when they shift.
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post #3 of 9 Old 11-19-2007, 11:04 AM
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i would consider something more along the lines of a spanish stucko type of product....maybe just thin it down a bit.

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post #4 of 9 Old 11-19-2007, 11:20 AM
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I would use a thin set or some other type of concrete product. Drywall mud would work but if your going to add sand to it I would use something that is already sand based. Just my 2 Cents

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post #5 of 9 Old 11-19-2007, 11:32 AM
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You can also staple chicken wire to the frame. This will give any mud you use more to hold on to.
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post #6 of 9 Old 11-19-2007, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Interesting, I might take a look at products like that. Although I may stick with drywall putty, because in another section of the room, i'm going build some stuff out of foam, and the "foam-coat" stuff i bought is pretty similar to drywall putty (but sticks to foam), so i might have an easier time getting the same texture with drywall putty over stucco or something.
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post #7 of 9 Old 11-19-2007, 01:17 PM
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The chicken wire and drywall mudd thing works pretty good. I have done that before.
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post #8 of 9 Old 11-26-2007, 11:05 AM
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Drywall compound isn't intended for the use you have in mind. It doesn't set up very hard (so it sands easily), and will crack if you apply it in thick layers because the outside dries (and therefore shrinks) faster than the inside. That's because it dries by evaporation of the water the powder is mixed with.

For what you want to do, you're better off using plaster. It's available premixed in bags (just add water, the directions are on the bag). It is formulated and intended for use as a wall surface, as opposed to drywall compound, which is intended only to bridge the small spaces between sheets and to repair small surface defects. Plaster sets by a chemical reaction between the powdered contents and the water it's mixed with (like concrete), so cracking due to differential drying rates between surface and interior layers isn't as much of a problem. Plaster mixes come formulated for various drying times, and with the sand already mixed in if you want a sand texture.

Whatever you use, you do need to use some kind of lath. Chicken wire will work, but expanded-metal lath, which you can buy at a plastering supply house, has smaller openings and thus creates a much stronger mechanical bond (the plaster oozes through the openings and dries behind the lath, forming "keys" that hold the plaster layer in place). If you don't use lath your surface coating will not stay on the wall for long.

There's no need to cover the wood with drywall first, but if you do, you need to use greenboard, not ordinary drywall. Greenboard is intended to have a skim coat of plaster applied over it, whereas ordinary drywall isn't intended to have so much water applied to its surface. The drywall's paper surface will absorb all that water and pass it through to the gypsum layer, causing it to disintegrate.
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post #9 of 9 Old 11-26-2007, 02:06 PM
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Answers with the speed and agility of a superbike...gotta love this place! Thanks bugatti

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