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post #721 of 1626 Old 01-24-2010, 04:55 AM
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Thread Hijack ... Day 73

Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

As CJ stated the patch panel is really just a 'dumb' terminating point - does not move the traffic between the each drop.

You will need to connect each drop to your router (via a patch cable) but as most home routers just have 4 LAN ports you use a switch to give you more ports.

Thanks for helping me out a bit, Mark, and giving poor CJ a break from my noob questions. My ignorance in this respect knows no bounds.

Is this the type of switch that one would need between a patch panel and a typical 4 port home router?


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post #722 of 1626 Old 01-24-2010, 05:37 AM
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Hanes - make sure whatever you get is Gigabit. That one you posted is not. Newegg is a good place to start browsing and reading reviews.

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post #723 of 1626 Old 01-24-2010, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Hanes:

Exactly, BUT as Audixium said, pick one that is totally gigabit ethernet. The package should say 10/100/1000 Megabit. 100 Mbt is rapidly fading as the standard for ethernet. There is little difference in price between 100 and 1000 Mbt equipment.

In my original picture, the switch is the gray box and the patch panel is black. The switch that I purchased is rack mountable (so it looks good sitting in the rack.

And keep asking questions. That's how we all learn.

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post #724 of 1626 Old 01-24-2010, 09:24 AM
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Plus, he wired with Cat6...

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post #725 of 1626 Old 01-24-2010, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

Plus, he wired with Cat6...

Yea, that certinly helps. It's not required for gigabit speeds (Cat 5e works fine), but it doesn't hurt.

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post #726 of 1626 Old 01-24-2010, 11:53 AM
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CJ (AKA Mr Network):

tell me what I need. I have a reasonably fast cable connection that terminates in my office. I currently have a Linksys WRT300N (draft N) router and switch that is rated 10/100 with 4 ports, One port to my office computer and another port via hard wire to my equipment stack, I really need to split the the run to the equipment stack at least 3 ways, PS3, Oppo, and DirecTV.

I need to provide wireless through the house. And I would be interested in exploring the ability to steam wireless content to other locations in the house. I also have an unused Slingbox solo (old gift) that I can hook to my Satbox and router to stream content inside the house.

I am open to getting a new router and switch in the equipment stack.
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post #727 of 1626 Old 01-24-2010, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Not Mr. Network...just a hacker who is open to experimenting...

OK. You have a router with 4 ports. You have 2 drops currently, and feel the need to add three more:

Current:
Office
Equipment Stack

New:
PS3
Oppo
DirectTV

First question...you have a wire running to the equipment stack...will that be used for the Oppo, PS3, or DirectTV? What I'm asking is do you need 3 NEW drops to the equipment stack or two new ones?

Second question...will you be running any addition ethernet drops in your house?

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post #728 of 1626 Old 01-24-2010, 12:19 PM
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I have holes in the wall/conduit from my office to the equipment stack. So I could pull more lines.

So there are currently 4 ports on my 10/100 rated router,

As I see it I really need 5+

Office computer
PS3
Oppo
Directv
Slingbox
Future Pre/pro

I also want the fastest wireless connection possible for my wifes office upstairs.
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post #729 of 1626 Old 01-24-2010, 12:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Got it. There are a variety of ways to skin this cat.

Here's my assumptions:
* You will benefit from GB connectivity between your machines in the home for file transfers and the like.
* MOST homes will not see a benefit from a GB connection, as their internet service entering the home is much too slow to have any benefit from this higher speed connection. 100 MB ethernet already provides much more bandwidth than you can obtain from your ethernet service.

Cheap way:

Cable Box/Fios >> Existing wireless router to:

>> Office
>> 1 line to equipment stack

Install a small switch behind the equipment stack and connect all network aware devices to this new switch.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16833166034

size: 5.5" x 3.3" x 1.1"...total cost $7.99

Way I Would Do It:

Cable Box/Fios >> Existing wireless router to:

8 port 10/100/1000 ethernet switch (preferably made by Netgear or Linksys/Cicso)

>> Office
>> PS3
>>Oppo
>>Directv
>>Slingbox
>>Future Pre/pro

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16833124020

The existing wireless router will provide DHCP. The switch will have DHCP disabled. I'm not certain if any of the devices connected to the new switch will take advantage of the GB bandwidth, but since you'll need to buy one, you may as well spend a few extra bucks and get a future proof one.

I believe that your wireless router is fine for now. I don't know much about the devices, but I think the pre-n stuff is plenty fast.

Total cost...about $80 (plus the new wires to the rack).

Hope this helps.

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post #730 of 1626 Old 01-25-2010, 10:35 AM
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Thanks CJ & Audixium. Think I have a fighting chance now, so long as I don't fumble a gazillion times like my Vikes did yesterday.

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post #731 of 1626 Old 01-31-2010, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
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I finally sat down and drew the design for the riser into my theater plan, and figured out all of the angles and the materials needed. Thanks to Biggy for the help on the design. The step on the right side was really causing me grief.

Here's a copy of the revised plan including the riser:



I completed all of the calculations using the riser calculator, and it called for a riser that was 10 5/8" tall. I built the riser using 2x10". With three layers of plywood, the total will be almost 12".





My two sons and I built it in place this afternoon. We were hiding in the basement to stay away from mom while she was studying. After we built it, we stood it up and attached the roofing paper underneath. The dude is HEAVY and is tall! It nearly went floor to ceiling! We then slid it back into place and I built the steps. As you can tell, I was 1 treated 2x4 short. Stores were closed, so I made do with what I had on hand.

I need to buy some step lights and get it all wired up (including a conduit in case something new comes along). I should be able to finish up the wiring and insulation this week and be ready to install the top this weekend (if I don't get it done sooner)!

Nice to be making progress again!

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post #732 of 1626 Old 01-31-2010, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

The dude is HEAVY and is tall! It nearly went floor to ceiling!

You won't regret it. I only put two layers of flooring on mine and it is solid as a rock. I really like that it is as solid or more so than any floor in the house. You can jump up and down on it and there is no give in it at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

Nice to be making progress again!

Nice indeed... Keep it going.

What floor planning software are you using and is it easy to use for a novice?

Man, that took longer than I thought it would...

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post #733 of 1626 Old 02-01-2010, 05:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks RPh Drew. I'm a bit of an overbuilder (go figure).

I'm using Visio to do the floorplans and darawings. It works great for isometric views and such. If I need renders of the actual space, I use sketchup, but sadly, my skill with that program leaves quite a bit to be desired.

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post #734 of 1626 Old 02-01-2010, 05:36 AM
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Looks good. Just remember to mark the stud locations on the facing piece as well as the back wall. makes installing the decking layers easier.

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post #735 of 1626 Old 02-01-2010, 06:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Good tip. Thanks Michael. Did you glue the decking down on yours? Did you do a conduit for Buttkickers or did you just wire for them directly?

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post #736 of 1626 Old 02-01-2010, 06:50 AM
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Looking good CJ. I like the angled step.

I did not use glue on my riser, but lots of screws.

I used conduit for all of the LV A/V stuff in the riser. Probably didn't need to, but I had some left over and it would be a real pain to swap out a cable without it.

Clearly, I'm a man of action - just give me a few minutes to think about it.
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post #737 of 1626 Old 02-01-2010, 07:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. I can't take credit for the step...it was Biggy's design.

I'm going to install a conduit. I had forgotten about the wiring for the buttkickers. I want the flexibility to add ethernet and video cables to the front of the riser if I want to in the future. Now I need to figure out how to install the conduit. It would have been easier when the riser was standing on end AND before I installed the tar paper...

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post #738 of 1626 Old 02-01-2010, 07:20 AM
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Looks great. Another Big inspired design.

Just curious why you didn't just lay the tar paper down and build on top of it? Personally, I would have built it as three boxes and then joined them. That's how I built my stage. Sure was easier to handle.

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post #739 of 1626 Old 02-01-2010, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

Looks great. Another Big inspired design.

Just curious why you didn't just lay the tar paper down and build on top of it? Personally, I would have built it as three boxes and then joined them. That's how I built my stage. Sure was easier to handle.

To add to that, why uses PT lumber if you lay it on roofing felt? The felt should be your moisture barrier and the need for PT goes away. Much cheaper and lighter.

Otherwise I think it looks great. Your stage should be really nice!

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post #740 of 1626 Old 02-01-2010, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

Good tip. Thanks Michael. Did you glue the decking down on yours? Did you do a conduit for Buttkickers or did you just wire for them directly?

CJ

I think I did use liquid nails, but it was overkill. Screws alone are fine.

No Buttkickers. I don't need them.

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post #741 of 1626 Old 02-01-2010, 09:50 AM
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CJ,

Nice work on the riser, very well done!!

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post #742 of 1626 Old 02-01-2010, 10:17 AM
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When I put my OSB down I used dabs of caulk here and there to prevent squeaks and then screwed it all together you never know if you will ever have to take it apart and using liquid nails would make that impossible. I saw one build quite a while ago where OP used liquid nails and nails to put his stage together and then ended up changing something and had to cut it all apart with a sawzall

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post #743 of 1626 Old 02-02-2010, 07:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I didn't want to use liquid nails, "just in case". You have convinced me that I can get by without it!

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post #744 of 1626 Old 02-02-2010, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Last night, I ordered the theater door. Got a solid core masonite door that is 1 3/4" thick. It will arrive in 3 - 4 weeks.

I will cover it with some type of mass and room treatments and beef up the hinges.

I also picked up the stuff for the conduit in the riser. Still need to get step lights....

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post #745 of 1626 Old 02-02-2010, 08:31 AM
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Is it a Safe N Sound or just some generic brand? I saw that I could order a SnS slab and it was only slightly more thna solid core, like $50 or so. I'll DEFINITELY need to replace and seal the door at the top of my steps.

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post #746 of 1626 Old 02-02-2010, 08:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Lowe's didn't carry the Safe N Sound brand. What I've read of them, they are solid core masonite that are 1 3/4" thick. Apparently, they are built using many layers and are very heavy.

The one I ordered is the same size, material, and method of manufacture. I don't know the brand, so I'm guessing it's generic. I'll add all of the T-Astragal, weather stripping, threshold, and beef up the mass after it's installed.

While not optimal, I am using 4' door (each panel is 2'). It achieves the look I like and a more grand entry. BUT, the thing will weigh a TON when it's here...

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Quote:


Lowe's didn't carry the Safe N Sound brand.

Actually as I was flipping through one of Lowes door catalogs, and I can't remember the manufacturer, THAT'S where I saw an option to upgrade to a Safe n Sound. So technically, Lowes doesn't carry Safe N Sound but one of their special order door manufacturers does as an option. You just have to know to look for it and I found by accident. Knowing that, I was NOT able to find the same thing at Home Depot. Although thier manufacturer offered a very similar, though different brand name, upgrade option.

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post #748 of 1626 Old 02-02-2010, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

Actually as I was flipping through one of Lowes door catalogs, and I can't remember the manufacturer, THAT'S where I saw an option to upgrade to a Safe n Sound. So technically, Lowes doesn't carry Safe N Sound but one of their special order door manufacturers does as an option. You just have to know to look for it and I found by accident. Knowing that, I was NOT able to find the same thing at Home Depot. Although thier manufacturer offered a very similar, though different brand name, upgrade option.

I remember seeing that. I was looking for Safe N Sound as a manufacturer. That's a NO-GO at Lowe's. I don't think that SnS was an option for my door.

I'm now curious what the differences between what I got and a Safe N Sound door would be (other than cost).

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post #749 of 1626 Old 02-02-2010, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

While not optimal, I am using 4' door (each panel is 2'). It achieves the look I like and a more grand entry. BUT, the thing will weigh a TON when it's here...

CJ

Man, now I'm thinking I'll rip out the rough framing for my 3' single door and go back to my original plan of double doors. I really wish there was a way to know for sure if in a basement room like yours (and mine) after all the isolation efforts how much difference there would be between single and double door installations - all other things being equal. I'm really only concerned with isolation between the basement and the second floor.

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post #750 of 1626 Old 02-02-2010, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

Man, now I'm thinking I'll rip out the rough framing for my 3' single door and go back to my original plan of double doors. I really wish there was a way to know for sure if in a basement room like yours (and mine) after all the isolation efforts how much difference there would be between single and double door installations - all other things being equal. I'm really only concerned with isolation between the basement and the second floor.

I can say that my room the weakest link is for certain the door at this point. I am in a walk out ranch style and even though I am not finished I did have everything setup (progress went to a screeching halt) and I am pretty sure once I deal with my door I should be in good shape. Just hoping I can deal with it in a way it reduces.

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