The Silent Theater - Phase 1 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 09:22 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
ntode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: On my Computer
Posts: 1,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
As the title suggests, I'm starting my theater. It will be a long process made up of two relatively short phases.
  1. Room Construction
  2. Equipment Purchase and installation (at least one year later)
I’m naming this thread the Silent Theater for two reasons. First, one of my most important goals is to keep sound from traveling outside of the theater, and second, because for a long time (at least in my mind) the theater will not have any equipment in it to make any sound…

Below I’ve broken down some basic info. I really need feedback on my decisions, but more importantly I need answers to my questions and feedback on my fears.

All comments and suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance for your help. Construction may begin within a month…

What I know for sure:
  1. Concrete walls and steps will limit the room to 19 x 14 x 9 BEFORE studs and drywall. I’ve added a diagram below of what I believe are the max dimensions of the theater once studs are up.
  2. Equipment will not be in the theater (although may be accessible from the theater). In other words I won’t have an equipment rack sitting in the room somewhere.
  3. Room will be built at least 1 year before any theater equipment makes it in there. I’ll probably use it for an office with a two channel (Klipsch RF-3 tower speakers) setup, but may leave it empty…  which will most likely encourage us to finish the room.
  4. While someone else will be doing the labor (putting up the walls, hanging drywall, wiring the power), the rest will be up to me. However, I will not be hiring a specialist or using my local shops (actually shop unless you count magnolia in Best Buy - which I don’t), because I have no confidence in them or any desire to spend money on knowledge that can be gained from research. Besides doing the design myself is half the fun.
  5. This will not be a showplace as it is HT 1.0. Instead I’m looking to put money into what I can take with me when I leave the house, or what will add the most performance to the room. In other words, no fiber optic lighting, no wood columns, no hidden speakers, no fake front wall.
  6. Room will be used for 30/30/30/10 (movies, gaming, television, other)
Decisions 90% made (in other words I could be talked out of any of them with a good enough reason):
  1. Fixed screen attached to wall (I could be talked into juts painting a screen if I believe it will save money but still allow for really good performance, but I’d rather have a real screen.)
  2. In room speakers
  3. 7.1 channel system
  4. Center below the screen on stand away from front wall.
  5. Two rows of 3 seats
  6. Back row on riser
  7. 16X9 screen (Update - this decision is now about 50/50 for a wider screen ratio)
  8. 1080p projector
  9. 92 inch screen (only because everything I read suggests I can’t go larger and still be reasonable on size – please convince me otherwise). EDIT: According to THX, I can go up to at least 116 and still be ok!
  10. Two doors in room. One for accessing the room, and one for accessing some utilities pipes on side of room (see drawing ).
  11. I plan on using an existing Definitive technology PF1500 subwoofer
  12. I do not plan on using my Klipsch Reference speakers once the equipment purchases begin EDIT: I'm rethinking this for HT 1.0. Right now I already have the front 3 speakers and could simply add the back 4. This would be much cheaper than buying 7 new speakers. Also, I think Klipsch are pretty good speakers for movies. They are very dynamic, efficient, and detailed. So while they aren't my first choice, sticking with what I already have may speed up my purchases in other areas.

Decisions not yet made:
  1. Do I make equipment accessible from the theater? I’m worried that making it accessible opens a hole in my wall which will allow sound to travel outside of my theater, but I also don’t want to have to go into another room to change movies or Xbox games (neither is a huge concern, but seems silly to walk into another room to make this change and it would be a huge pain to explain this to my wife). EDIT: Decision made - Equipment will not be accessible from room.
  2. Where to put the equipment – under stairs or in own room off the theater. Under stairs means it gets more ventilation, own room means more accessible if not accessible through theater. EDIt: Decision made - Equipment will sit in the room to the side of the theater. This will allow for easy access from the theater to change movies or games. However, I planning on using an IR repeater or RF (even better) system to controll everything so that it does not have to be seen in the room.
  3. Should I use Green Glue? EDIT: Decision Made - I will not be using GG
  4. Should I use two layers of drywall? EDIT: Decision Made - I will not use 2 layers of drywall. I feel that using GG and 2 layers will most likely not give me the results of total silence outside the room. Instead I'm treating my wifes ears with a noisemaker (fan) in our room so that when I turn the music up she can simply mask the sound - fix = $20 If at some point I decide this was a major mistake, I can always add another layer of drywall with GG... although that is doubtful.
  5. Should I do a stage? EDIT: Decision Made - no stage. We've decided that this room needs to be set up genericly so that our potential buyers aren't turned off by a dedicated room. If they want to dedicate it, it will be simple, but if they want to put a pool table in there, they won't have to deal with a stage and riser.
  6. Should I mount my projector to the ceiling or on a shelf in the back of the room?
  7. Should I build a hush box for my projector?
  8. What kind of conduit is best for cables in case I want to run a new cable to my projector or another area in the theater at a later date?
  9. If I need an HDMI cable that is about 40ft or less, is there anything special I need to look for, or will something simple from monoprice do the job? EDIT: Decision made - 1 35' HDMI cable purchased from Monoprice
  10. Where should I put the Subwoofer?
  11. Should I use two Subwoofers?
  12. What should I do about lighting? EDIT: Decision Made - 8 cans 2 on each switch (will not use graphic eye at this time, though may try and get one later)
  13. If I do two layers of drywall, what thickness should I use? EDIT: Decision Made - Not using two layers
  14. Should I use special drywall (Quiet Rock), or just standard drywall? EDIT: Decision Made - Using standard drywall

Biggest fears:
  1. I’m very concerned about isolating the sound in this room. While it sits under my dining room, any amount of noise out of this room could wake up my wife who essentially sleeps with one eye open…
  2. I’m very worried about HVAC. The space currently has a single vent in it. My unfinished basement is wide open (1400sq ft) and is on average 5 degrees colder than the first floor of my house.
  3. Room acoustics. I really want this room to sound as good as it can (within reason), and know that it will require some room treatments.
  4. Budget – This is HT 1.0 for me. We will most likely move from this house in 5 years and therefore I have no desire to dump 50 grand into this room as little of that would ever come back to me in our market. I want this room to be like a Camaro – Lots of performance, quality is good and nice to look at but no Ferrari, and therefore reasonably priced.
  5. Time – we’ve decided to start finishing the basement in the next few months (possibly within a month). I want to ensure that this room is set up for flexibility and quality now, so that when I start buying equipment I can simply plug and play.


I'm reserving the rest of the space below on this first post to display pictures of the current progress.

Progress report:
Thread Started on AVSForum
First Diagram of room started
Construction Begins
Electric run
AV cables run
Conduit to Projector put in
Drywall hung
Drywall Tape and Mud (screenwall shown below)
Drywall finished
Trim and doors installed
Walls painted
Carpet installed
Speakers 20 inch computer monitor, reciever, and xbox installed.
ntode is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 09:22 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
ntode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: On my Computer
Posts: 1,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Here are some pictures of the space and my first drawing of what I’m working with:

Entry Hall



Front Wall


Open side that will be closed off (possible location of equipment)


Right side (stairs - also possible location for equipment)


Back Wall (entry door on left of picture)



Diagram with estimated dimensions
ntode is offline  
post #3 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 10:47 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
ntode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: On my Computer
Posts: 1,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
One other question:
5. Should I do a stage?

Also, I just created another drawing of what it may look like when complete:
ntode is offline  
post #4 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 10:56 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Audixium's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rocky Mtn High
Posts: 1,595
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
I'm debating myself on "to stage or not to stage". I'm curious what some of the experts might say the reasons are besides the aesthetics.

The Zen Garden HT - Move Along...There is Nothing To See Here.
Audixium is offline  
post #5 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 11:03 AM
AVS Special Member
 
mbgonzomd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3,722
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Some answers/comments:
1) Green glue/2 layers of drywall--yes, it sounds like you are interested in sound isolation, so this will be a must (or similar products). Look into hatchannels/RSIC clips, staggered studs, room within a room construction also.
2) 92" screen--you can go bigger without a problem in a room that size. Mine is about 18.5'x12' and I have a 105" screen. Could of gone even bigger if I had calculated my PJ location better.
3) I would put the equipment outside of the room. Most everything (except putting in a DVD) can be done within the theater via remote control.
4) Reasons for a stage: 1) aesthetics, 2) barrier between the masses and your screen, 3) Large mass (when filled with sand) to place speakers/subs on. See this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=966931
Good luck.

Gonzo

My Home Theater Odyssey
PSN: mule-tool
mbgonzomd is offline  
post #6 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 11:06 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Jesse S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, eh?
Posts: 3,503
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
How are you going to block sound transmission through the ceiling/floor above?
Jesse S is offline  
post #7 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
ntode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: On my Computer
Posts: 1,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Two more questions

6. Should I mount my projector to the ceiling or on a shelf in the back of the room?
7. Should I build a hush box for my projector?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse S View Post

How are you going to block sound transmission through the ceiling/floor above?

I don't know.... Help!?!?!?!

This is my main fear and main reason for starting this thread. I figure at a minimum, some insulation. At a maximum, green glue, two layers of drywall, and crossing my fingers, and (insert options here).

In all honestly I have absolutely no idea what I should do, but it is a pretty big goal of mine to block the sound transmission. However, I can't affort to put 10 grand into blocking sound.

The room above is a dining room. It opens to the rest of the house (open floor plan). You can actually see the dining room from almost every other room on the first floor.



Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

3) I would put the equipment outside of the room. Most everything (except putting in a DVD) can be done within the theater via remote control.

If I do this, which I'm leaning towards, I have two options:
1. put the equipment in the side room
2. put the equipment under the stairs.

If I put the equipment in the side room, is there enough room for the heat to get out (without coming into the theater)? there wouldn't really be any ventilation in that room. I'm affraid that the equipment would just continually heat that room up until it was about 90+ degrees in there.

If I put the equipment below the stairs, I'll have to walk all the way around the stairs to change DVDs and Games, but there would significant increase in ventilation.

Comments/Thoughts/Suggestions?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

2) 92" screen--you can go bigger without a problem in a room that size. Mine is about 18.5'x12' and I have a 105" screen. Could of gone even bigger if I had calculated my PJ location better.

What is the distance of your closest person's eyes to the screen?


Two more questions
8. What kind of conduit is best for cables in case I want to run a new cable to my projector or another area in the theater at a later date?
9. If I need an HDMI cable that is about 40ft or


So I just did some price shopping. If running 40ft HDMI cables isn't a problem, I could actually put the Xbox and other disc based players that need constant access, in the side room while putting all other equipment under the stairs.

Seems kind of odd to not have the euqipment centralized, but running the cables would give me the flexibility and wouldn't really be that expensive if I decided to not use this method in the end.
ntode is offline  
post #8 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 11:57 AM
AVS Special Member
 
mbgonzomd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3,722
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntode View Post

Two more questions
8. What kind of conduit is best for cables in case I want to run a new cable to my projector or another area in the theater at a later date?
9. If I need an HDMI cable that is about 40ft or less, is there anything special I need to look for, or will something simple from monoprice do the job?

8) 3" PVC will work or look at smarthome's conduits
9) Monoprice HDMI will work fine.

Gonzo

My Home Theater Odyssey
PSN: mule-tool
mbgonzomd is offline  
post #9 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 11:57 AM
AVS Special Member
 
mbgonzomd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3,722
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntode View Post

What is the distance of your closest person's eyes to the screen?


About 10 feet.

Gonzo

My Home Theater Odyssey
PSN: mule-tool
mbgonzomd is offline  
post #10 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 12:03 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jesse S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, eh?
Posts: 3,503
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Basically it's how much you *reduce* the sound levels, you can't block it totally.

If you plan to listen at loud levels, say 110db peaks, and you want to reduce the "noise" reaching above, you need 50-60db of STC reduction. I don't know if that's possible with insulation + double drywall + greenglue. Also it depends how potent your subwoofer is. STC ratings don't usually account for 20hz-100hz of throbbing subwoofer. Deep bass has a nasty habit of going right through objects or finding ways around. Having a dining room above is probably a good thing, rather than say, the kitchen or a bedroom.
Jesse S is offline  
post #11 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 12:12 PM
AVS Special Member
 
bpape's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: St. Louis(Wildwood), MO
Posts: 7,639
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Hey Nick.

Good to hear from you again. Looks like you've got a nice space to work with there. Lots of options.

Take your time and plan carefully. Don't forget the electrical and HVAC entry/exit when planning your isolation scheme.

Bryan

I am serious...and don't call me Shirley.
Bryan Pape - Lead Acoustician
GIK Acoustics

bpape is offline  
post #12 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 12:43 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
ntode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: On my Computer
Posts: 1,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hey Bryan,

Good to reconnect. I sent you a PM.

The HVAC is actually something I'm really worried about.
1. I'm worried that the room will get too hot with adults and kids in the room.
2. I'm worried that the vent/vents will allow sound to travel out of the room
3. I'm worried that the vent/vents will add too much noise when the AC or Heat turns on.

Any thoughts/solutions for these issues would be greatly appreciated.
ntode is offline  
post #13 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 01:07 PM
AVS Special Member
 
aham23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 1,068
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntode View Post

Hey Bryan,

Good to reconnect. I sent you a PM.

The HVAC is actually something I'm really worried about.
1. I'm worried that the room will get too hot with adults and kids in the room.
2. I'm worried that the vent/vents will allow sound to travel out of the room
3. I'm worried that the vent/vents will add too much noise when the AC or Heat turns on.

Any thoughts/solutions for these issues would be greatly appreciated.

and i thought i was the only one all worried about his HT build.

the smart peeps of AVS will shoot you straight.

later.
aham23 is offline  
post #14 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 01:11 PM
AVS Special Member
 
The Bogg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,438
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 16
It's VERY difficult to eliminate sound transfer to adjacent rooms. In much the same way that water will leak out of a tiny hole, sound will follow the path of least resistance. In my ceiling construction we used 2 layers of 5/8 inch drywall with GG in between, with the assembly hanging off kinetics isomax hangers. I have plumbing pipes similar to yours in the above picture. They are mostly behind the drywall, but there is an area which juts out a little, but is hidden under the rear riser. I can still hear a little bit of water trickling if the sink above is being used. That tells me that sound will find a way back up there too when it's cranked. We did the best we could with fairly good resources and ideas but it's important to have realistic goals.

Design by Rives...dollars by The Bogg

Click for my build thread
The Bogg is offline  
post #15 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 01:27 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
ntode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: On my Computer
Posts: 1,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bogg View Post

We did the best we could with fairly good resources and ideas but it's important to have realistic goals.

That's the truth. Honestly my goal is simply to keep enough volume in the room as to not wake up my wife. My kids rooms are far enough away that I'm not too worried about them. I'm not sure if it's realistic or not yet. If it's not, I'm going to end up with a fantastic home theater for my headphones...

two more questions:

11. Where should I put the Subwoofer
12. Should I use two Subwoofers

This isn't exactly something I need to worry about now, but I do want to put outlets for the subwoofer line so that I have options. I figured I'd put a drop in each of the front corners and one in the midle of the screen. I think those are really my only three options for placement since the back two corners are taken up with doors.

one other question:
13. What should I do about lighting?

My origional plan is to do can lights in the ceiling as well as sconces on the walls. I'm guessing, like everything else, the can lights will allow sound to travel outside of the room.
ntode is offline  
post #16 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 06:39 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Audixium's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rocky Mtn High
Posts: 1,595
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntode View Post

If it's not, I'm going to end up with a fantastic home theater for my headphones...

This is my biggest fear! If I go all out in my HT room and still wake up the wife I'll be wearing my wireless Sennheisers (just like I do now). Talk about a waste...

Therefore, my sound isolation budget is going to have much higher priority priority than the initial equipment list or the seating. As all the vets around here point out, it is much easier to replace a receiver (or pj, amp, htpc, scaler, lense, etc, etc) than it is to tear down the walls and ceiling to find the path of least resistance.

The Zen Garden HT - Move Along...There is Nothing To See Here.
Audixium is offline  
post #17 of 55 Old 01-03-2008, 06:48 PM
AVS Special Member
 
mbgonzomd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3,722
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 18
11. Sub placement really depends on the room itself. Having some options to move the sub around and find where it sounds best is ideal (but not always practical).
12. I think most will say 2 is better than 1.
13. Lighting can be done with sound isolation in mind (eg, builing MDF boxes around can lights, putting sconces on columns, etc).

If the wife-noise factor is a major concern, another option, in addition to proper sound isolation, is using butt kickers so that you can decrease the bass (the hardest frequencies to keep in the room) when she is asleep.

Gonzo

My Home Theater Odyssey
PSN: mule-tool
mbgonzomd is offline  
post #18 of 55 Old 01-04-2008, 11:30 AM
AVS Special Member
 
stockmonkey2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Utah County
Posts: 1,707
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Maybe I can hitch hike on your thread since I am at the same phase as you, and we both have the same concerns. I have a 18 x 30 room for a basement addition that is concrete walls all the way around. There is a single structural shear wall that is spaced about a foot away from one of the walls. I could not but up against the wall due to the footings of the old house. I am trying to provide as much sound isolation as possible while minimizing cost. I was thinking of putting in a double drywall green glue for the ceiling, all the way to the edges of the concrete. Then just doing regular 2x4 and 1 layer drywall for the walls since they have concrete on the other side. I am willing to spend the money for green glue and double drywall for all the walls, but would also like to save the money if I will not get a substantial benefit given the concrete walls. I also plan to have no penetrations of the drywall and will use soffits for all lighting and electrical.
stockmonkey2000 is offline  
post #19 of 55 Old 01-04-2008, 11:32 AM
AVS Special Member
 
stockmonkey2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Utah County
Posts: 1,707
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 22
One other thing I had been considering, is for the structural shear wall, since it is 2x4 with OSB on one side, can I put a single layer of drywall with greenglue between the drywall and OSB, and will this be as effective (or almost as effective) as double drywall?
stockmonkey2000 is offline  
post #20 of 55 Old 01-04-2008, 12:29 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
ntode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: On my Computer
Posts: 1,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

I was thinking of putting in a double drywall green glue for the ceiling, all the way to the edges of the concrete. Then just doing regular 2x4 and 1 layer drywall for the walls since they have concrete on the other side. I am willing to spend the money for green glue and double drywall for all the walls, but would also like to save the money if I will not get a substantial benefit given the concrete walls.


Interesting. I actually thought about doing that as well since I'm not really concerned about sound going sideways out of the theater - just UP. However, my fear is that it will go out the side then bounce up off the ground and go up through a different part of the ceiling/floor.
ntode is offline  
post #21 of 55 Old 01-04-2008, 12:32 PM
AVS Special Member
 
mbgonzomd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3,722
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 18
You will need to treat all walls within the room with GG and DD if you want isolation. If you search for "flanking" you will find threads discussing this issue. Bottom line, sound is like water it will find a way out of the room, so you have to shore up the entire space.

Gonzo

My Home Theater Odyssey
PSN: mule-tool
mbgonzomd is offline  
post #22 of 55 Old 01-04-2008, 12:46 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
ntode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: On my Computer
Posts: 1,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
13. If I do two layers of drywall, what thickness should I use?
14. Should I use special drywall, or just standard drywall?
ntode is offline  
post #23 of 55 Old 01-04-2008, 02:12 PM
AVS Special Member
 
mbgonzomd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3,722
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 18
13. Thicker the better (ie, 5/8th is better than 1/2). Thicker has more mass and mass is important for containing low frequencies. Some may argue a benefit of having 2 different sizes (one sheet of 1/2, one sheet of 5/8) due to different resonant frequencies, but this benefit is probably outweighed by the added mass of 2 sheets of 5/8".
14. Standard drywall is fine, unless you have moisture concerns and then you can use the moisture resistant type. If you have a lot of money you could use quietrock (instead of GG and DD).

Gonzo

My Home Theater Odyssey
PSN: mule-tool
mbgonzomd is offline  
post #24 of 55 Old 01-04-2008, 02:13 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
ntode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: On my Computer
Posts: 1,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

13. Thicker the better (ie, 5/8th is better than 1/2). Thicker has more mass and mass is important for containing low frequencies. Some may argue a benefit of having 2 different sizes (one sheet of 1/2, one sheet of 5/8) due to different resonant frequencies, but this benefit is probably outweighed by the added mass of 2 sheets of 5/8".
14. Standard drywall is fine, unless you have moisture concerns and then you can use the moisture resistant type. If you have a lot of money you could use quietrock (instead of GG and DD).

Would it make sense to put quite rock on the ceiling with gg on the side/front/rear walls?
ntode is offline  
post #25 of 55 Old 01-04-2008, 02:14 PM
AVS Special Member
 
mbgonzomd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3,722
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntode View Post

However, my fear is that it will go out the side then bounce up off the ground and go up through a different part of the ceiling/floor.


You are right on track there--that is flanking.

Gonzo

My Home Theater Odyssey
PSN: mule-tool
mbgonzomd is offline  
post #26 of 55 Old 01-04-2008, 02:18 PM
AVS Special Member
 
mbgonzomd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3,722
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntode View Post

Would it make sense to put quite rock on the ceiling with gg on the side/front/rear walls?

Quiet rock vs GG and DD has been debated ad nauseum. In the end, the performance/sq foot cost probably favors GG/DD. Quietrock may be easier to install (one sheet verses 2 sheets of drywall). I would just choose 1 approach for the entire room. I guess the one benefit of doing as you described is the ease of putting 1 layer up on the ceiling verse 2, but 2 layers is not that hard as long as you have a drywall lift (rental store).

Gonzo

My Home Theater Odyssey
PSN: mule-tool
mbgonzomd is offline  
post #27 of 55 Old 01-04-2008, 02:35 PM
AVS Special Member
 
stockmonkey2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Utah County
Posts: 1,707
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 22
My theory is that if I did the ceiling first with DD and GG all the way to all edges which are concrete walls (with a good caulking seal at the edges), there would be minimal flanking noise.
stockmonkey2000 is offline  
post #28 of 55 Old 01-04-2008, 03:05 PM
Senior Member
 
Federico's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
What is the height of the room?

Federico
Federico is offline  
post #29 of 55 Old 01-04-2008, 03:09 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
ntode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: On my Computer
Posts: 1,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
ntode is offline  
post #30 of 55 Old 01-04-2008, 03:24 PM
Senior Member
 
Federico's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
My new room (still working on it) is very similar 9' 5" height, 13' 4" width and 19' 6" long.
I chose those dimensions because the acoustic is very good
Federico is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off