Do you want the Actual Inlet & Outlet used in the PowerBridge? IF SO, HERE YOU GO! - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 76 Old 12-08-2009, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abs777 View Post

What is the benefit of using a power bridge?

In a flat screen application you can recess the outlet for a more flush installation. In a projector application you can run the inlet to your AV rack area and have your projector hooked to a UPS and/or power conditioner.
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post #62 of 76 Old 12-08-2009, 10:26 AM
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Do people run a whole house surge instead? Is there a reason people run a UPS to their projector? Trying to decide how I am going to do it.
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post #63 of 76 Old 12-08-2009, 10:31 AM
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There is a school of thought that if you have a power failure the ability to run the fan and properly cool the bulb compartment has some advantages in avoiding the excessive build up of residual heat that would occur if the power was simply cut. It is not so much the preservation of bulb life but rather the protecting of everything around the bulb (Think $$) others will say poppycock they have had outages and their projectors were none the worse for the experience. Pick your poison. For $99 I hooked my projector circuit to a UPS and have used it twice in 5 years to cool the projector. I also experience a power outage at least once a year.

To those thinking it is unnecessary you need to ask yourself if nothing is damaged if you cut the power then why do the Manufacturer's make sure the fan runs for a cool down after you turn off the projector.
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post #64 of 76 Old 12-08-2009, 07:56 PM
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Ever the DIY'er, I "rolled my own" powerbridge type solution, for much cheaper!

First, I bought one of these: Leviton 4937 Straight Blade Receptacle

Some light machining to remove the hinged door and several coats of spray enamel later and I had this:



Alt View Rear View

As a bonus, this inlet has a metal faceplate and is EXTREMELY heavy-duty in build (it's intended as a power inlet for recreational vehicles). It also has a weather gasket on it, so it makes a nice seal with the wall (less drafts).

The closet and room where my AV rack is located is painted a deep chocolate brown and has black outlet boxes.



My inlet is not shown here, but is on the front-left wall (off screen) in this photo.

Since I was mounting this behind my plasma, I wanted a recessed box. I also needed to connect a bunch of signal cables. Best solution? Carlon SC300PRB 3-gang recessed dual voltage box.



I knew I was going to be feeding the "inlet" from my APC H15 power conditioner, but one can never be TOO careful with a $3500 plasma. So I bought one of these to put in the Carlon behind the display.



This is what it looked like all together:



So, now I have a "powerbridge" system that not only looks awesome, but has more capabilities and safety for my equipment.

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post #65 of 76 Old 12-09-2009, 08:05 AM
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Nice. I used a similar box for my install. It does look nice and finished.

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post #66 of 76 Old 09-07-2010, 04:38 PM
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Sorry to revive an old thread but I thought I would just pose my question here instead of starting a new thread.

A couple years ago when I was installing wiring for my new projector setup, my electrician installed a powerbridge type solution so I could provide AVS/battery backup protection to the projector. He installed a regular outlet in the ceiling right next to where my projector was being ceiling mounted and installed an inlet near my a/v console which sat under my screen.
I'm now in the process of installing a new a/v rack which will be recessed into the screen wall to the right of the screen. (The area behind the screen wall is accessible and unfinished)
So my question is what do I do with the inlet that is under the screen wall? I don't want to run extension cord from that back behind the wall to plug into my AVR/UPS (which is where it will be newly located once the rack is finished). Is it possible to relocate the inlet to an area in the unfinished room and then just get a blank plate to cover up the hole in the wall where the inlet was? I guess this is the most efficient way but I wanted to make sure I'm not missing something. Is it more complex than what I'm making it out to be?
Help please.
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post #67 of 76 Old 09-07-2010, 05:41 PM
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just move the inlet, connect the Romex to either the projector outlet direct or connect to the old line in the old electrical box and cover with a blank plate. Any box with the connections must be accessible by code.

If you can pull the Romex to the projector outlet you can bury the old box in the wall assuming the wire is disconnected.
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post #68 of 76 Old 09-09-2010, 08:50 AM
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So if I move the inlet box, let's say I just flip it around so it's facing the unfinished room where my components will be, I could do that and just put a blank plate on the other side that will face the viewers (which is under the screen)?
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post #69 of 76 Old 09-09-2010, 09:06 AM
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If you flip it and it is accessible on the new side you can patch the drywall on the old side and forget about it.
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post #70 of 76 Old 09-20-2011, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skeeterfood View Post

There's a new option from Midlite if you want more color choices and single-gang installation. It's about on par with the PowerBridge in pricing, maybe a bit more expensive depending on your configuration. UL listed and no modification required.

Décor Recessed Receptacle and Power Inlet Kit

Kit:


Separates:




I went with 2 black inlets and a single black recessed outlet for my setup.

Both the inlets will go in my equipment room, with 1 inlet wired to 2 standard outlets behind my screen wall for the subs and the other inlet wired to the black recessed outlet at the projector location.

I also bought one of these in black for the low voltage projector wiring:


Though, I'm thinking maybe I should have gotten one of these:


Oh well...

I got mine from MCM. They're just starting to stock these, so they were back-ordered for a few weeks, but I finally got everything today. They seem really well built. I can post pics if people are interested.

-John

Great BUMP, thread filled with info.

I went with MIDLITE 4642-W

http://www.amazon.com/MIDLITE-4642-W...A6/ref=lh_ni_t


Thanks.
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post #71 of 76 Old 02-17-2014, 09:49 AM
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Best Buy has the old style horizontal Powerbrideg on clearance $59.99 with free shipping. I picked up 2 for both my 65VT60's what are getting wall mounted. One already installed, nice little kit for the price.



http://www.bestbuy.com/site/in-wall-cable-management-system/3180939.p;jsessionid=A653A6711D6CC3A62AC00F33BC5212B1.bbolsp-app02-157?id=1218382975246&skuId=3180939&st=powerbridge&cp=1&lp=1

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post #72 of 76 Old 02-17-2014, 10:31 AM
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You can get basically the same thing with the AVS Discount direct from PowerBridge for less...

http://www.powerbridgesolution.com/avsspecialorder.html
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post #73 of 76 Old 05-07-2014, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

There is a school of thought that if you have a power failure the ability to run the fan and properly cool the bulb compartment has some advantages in avoiding the excessive build up of residual heat that would occur if the power was simply cut. It is not so much the preservation of bulb life but rather the protecting of everything around the bulb (Think $$) others will say poppycock they have had outages and their projectors were none the worse for the experience. Pick your poison. For $99 I hooked my projector circuit to a UPS and have used it twice in 5 years to cool the projector. I also experience a power outage at least once a year.

To those thinking it is unnecessary you need to ask yourself if nothing is damaged if you cut the power then why do the Manufacturer's make sure the fan runs for a cool down after you turn off the projector.


Lots of discussion and not sure I 100% follow, but I am about to pre-wire, and my personal preference is I would rather be safe than sorry and spend a little 'insurance' money to help protect my projector.   Regardless of whether truly needed or not, I figure it can't really 'hurt' to use.   

 

So, now onto my question... Just so I am clear on what the pre-wiring looks like (regardless of a DIY or Power Bridge solution). 

 

Mount a junction box on ceiling near projector location with a 14/2 Romex (or 12/2 if so inclined) wire in it.     Eventually a receptacle of some sort is placed in this box & projector is plugged into that receptacle.    I believe NO INCOMING POWER is directly fed into this box, right?

 

The 14/2 Romex from that Junction box near the projector, is run down to another junction box ,in my case, into a dedicated closet/room for the AVS equipment. This junction box is where a power inlet will be installed, providing the 'male' prongs.  

 

An extension cord is then used to connect the power inlet/ male prong into a Power Source (UPS, surge protector, etc).   

 

The actual power from the electric panel is wired to an entirely different junction box, which has a receptacle, that the UPS/surge protector, etc. is plugged into.   

 

Is my understanding correct?  

 

If I use a 2 receptacle outlet, do I still only need a single 14/2 wire connecting the two junction boxes?  I assume so, kind of like those extension cords with three receptacles on the end, but thought I would double check.

 

In one of the threads I read, it talked about doing the Power Inlets solution for Powered Sub's as well, what is that (potentially) protecting against (power surge, or something else)?  I understand the cooling 'need' for a projector bulb, but didn't think a sub would have a similar dynamic.

 

Thanks,

kevin

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post #74 of 76 Old 05-07-2014, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post

Is my understanding correct?  

Yes, you've got it.
Quote:
If I use a 2 receptacle outlet, do I still only need a single 14/2 wire connecting the two junction boxes?  I assume so, kind of like those extension cords with three receptacles on the end, but thought I would double check.

Correct. It's a power outlet just like every other one in your house...
Quote:
In one of the threads I read, it talked about doing the Power Inlets solution for Powered Sub's as well, what is that (potentially) protecting against (power surge, or something else)?  I understand the cooling 'need' for a projector bulb, but didn't think a sub would have a similar dynamic.

It's for surge protection / power conditioning reasons, which apply to the projector as well... But no, no reason to hook a subwoofer onto a UPS.


Jeff

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post #75 of 76 Old 05-07-2014, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

It's for surge protection / power conditioning reasons, which apply to the projector as well... But no, no reason to hook a subwoofer onto a UPS.

Jeff

 

So, although a UPS isn't needed for a Sub, it might still be beneficial for the Power Conditioning/ surge protection, to use this 'bridge'/inlet type set up?

 

Do you think if I had outlets at the 4 corners of my room, I could start with one receptacle (un-powered), run it to the next, the next, and the next, in a traditional wiring scheme (although, normally all  based on having a power load), then to a single "power inlet" that could then power all 4 locations?  That could give me some flexibility on sub location (and #).   That way I have a single inlet for the Sub's vs having to have several of them? 

 

Thanks,

Kevin

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post #76 of 76 Old 05-07-2014, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post

So, although a UPS isn't needed for a Sub, it might still be beneficial for the Power Conditioning/ surge protection, to use this 'bridge'/inlet type set up?

It can if you have a power conditioner already. If not, a small surge protector at the outlet near the subwoofer would do the job.
Quote:
Do you think if I had outlets at the 4 corners of my room, I could start with one receptacle (un-powered), run it to the next, the next, and the next, in a traditional wiring scheme (although, normally all  based on having a power load), then to a single "power inlet" that could then power all 4 locations?  That could give me some flexibility on sub location (and #).   That way I have a single inlet for the Sub's vs having to have several of them? 

I wouldn't bother with that, and that might violate 'code', too. Worse, you've forced all those outlets to be tied to some inlet setup, which you might not want. Remember those power outlets in a theater will get used for other things besides AV gear. Like vacuum cleaners!

Jeff

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