Do you want the Actual Inlet & Outlet used in the PowerBridge? IF SO, HERE YOU GO! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 76 Old 01-15-2008, 06:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Do you want the actual Inlet and Outlet used in the PowerBridge (PB)? Your DIY project could be cheaper

Some sources (links) for purchasing are listed in POST #6

Forum Member ToxinLab was able to find the Inlet for $11 at his local electrical supply house. You should be able to build a DIY PowerBridge for under $20.

Part #5278-SS

Available in Gray or Black (PowerBridge's White Kit option is also Gray inside the hole if you look).

http://www.passandseymour.com/produc...fm?s=193&mkt=1

and/or

http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/G10.pdf

Gray Inlet: Part #5278-SS, Black Inlet: Part #5278-SSBK

Though they are using a 'rubber washer' with adhesive on both sides to mount the inlet to a wall/face plate with a round hole, you should be able to figure how to glue it on.

Add remodel boxes, standard power outlet (or use the actual one the PB has: Part #5251-W - see below), a 2nd wall/face plate with a round hole and some Romex wire and you have your own PB DIY project while saving some $.

If you would rather have the convenience of purchasing a complete kit and $ is no problem, just buy the PowerBridge Kit. I did and recommend it. The extra $25 is not a big deal IMO...


Part #5251-W

http://www.passandseymour.com/produc...fm?s=110&mkt=1

and/or

http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/B17.pdf

Other colors available!

You need a recessed box adapter if you want the plug recessed like the PB. If you do use the recessed adapter, the metal is cut off just above the first screw holes from the outlet (1 on each side). Those two screw holes are used to attach the outlet to the recessed adapter.

Here are some pics showing the PowerBridge up close (you can see how the Inlet is mounted to the wall/face plate).
LL
LL
LL
LL
LL

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post #2 of 76 Old 01-15-2008, 06:15 PM
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Similar solution discussed in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ht=power+inlet


get a blank plate and drill a hole for this $15 part:

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pro...8BF7807E6C617F

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post #3 of 76 Old 01-15-2008, 06:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Not bad, but I wanted to match the updated and sleek look of the other outlets in the room...

You can find the actual plug used in the PB for approx. the same $ as the Hubbell, of course you don't need to drill the hole either..

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post #4 of 76 Old 01-15-2008, 07:32 PM
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you know with all the power inlet stuff... couldn't you just wire 2 outlets together and then make a powercable with 2 male ends and be done with it?
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post #5 of 76 Old 01-15-2008, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pocoloco View Post

you know with all the power inlet stuff... couldn't you just wire 2 outlets together and then make a powercable with 2 male ends and be done with it?

If you want to see if it's plugged in you could just touch the prongs to your tongue.

Generally not a good idea to create a lethal weapon if you have kids, pets, parties, etc.
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post #6 of 76 Old 01-16-2008, 05:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Links for the Inlet:

#5278-SS
http://www.electriciansupplies.com/i..._--_1_Each.htm


#5251-W
http://www.electriciansupplies.com/i..._--_1_Each.htm


SEARCH FOR OTHER OUTLETS HERE:
http://www.electriciansupplies.com/i...eceptacles.htm


Search around.. Pass and Seymour (Slater) is a large manufacturer and their products are widely distributed. I've seen the Inlet cheaper but didn't find the link when I searched last.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ToxinLab View Post

Yeah, that's the exact one I used. I think I paid $11 for it at my local electrical supply house.


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post #7 of 76 Old 01-18-2008, 02:10 AM
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Authentic Leviton Products for your PowerBridge DIY.
Thanks turbe, but that site you provided waaaay too expensive.
Thanks to johnrbek for this WebSite go on click on the links

http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B5278...DFLANGED_INLET
http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B8070...4-W_______N7-W
http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B8072...W_______N726-W
I included 2 links for matching wall plates. The dia. on one is 1.406"(80704) the other is 1.6"(80720).

Oh they also carry the clock receptacle http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B688-...__CLOCK_RECEPT

That being said you could probably pick these up in a local Electrical Shop as well.

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post #8 of 76 Old 01-18-2008, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, I wasn't going to 'do' a comprehensive Google search for you all...

Pass and Seymour is a large Manufacturer and does manufacture parts for various companies so it doesn't surprise me that you found a better price than I found at approx. $15...

I hope this information helps all who are interested. If time is an issue and the extra $25 is not a problem, purchase the complete kit from PowerBridge (like I did).

I will post a picture later that will show how the inlet is attached to the wall/face plate.


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post #9 of 76 Old 01-18-2008, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pocoloco View Post

you know with all the power inlet stuff... couldn't you just wire 2 outlets together and then make a powercable with 2 male ends and be done with it?


Not sure about the US but in Alberta (and I suspect all of Canada) this is against code and illegal (for obvious reasons). Just a heads up incase some people have their cables and wire strippers ready to go. Best to look into it for your state / province codes and be sure you want to go that way before you do it. In Alberta if you had a fire you'd be SOL for insurance not to mention the threat of "electrocution" by using that type of cable.

Ironically I can actually remember when they used to sell these as kid but at some point over the last 30+ years someone realized it wasn't a very good idea.
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post #10 of 76 Old 01-18-2008, 02:27 PM
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These are posts from other threads.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltiDawg View Post

Would I be correct if I said that the Power Bridge kit is simple two Old Work boxes, two single recessed clock receptacles, and two face-plates, plus a 36" male-male extension cord? (Romex not included.)

Why buy the "kit" for $50?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnus_CA View Post

Already suggested, by me...you'd have to find a male to male power cord which is hard to come by. Someone else mentioned it would be unsafe.

DON'T DO THIS! At first sounds like a good idea, but what happens if you unplug the male end that feeds the wall and the cable is still powered?

For some money is not a problem, but if you're on a budget YOUR SAFETY and your FAMILY'S safety is PRIORITY. Just buy the PowerBridge Solution.

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post #11 of 76 Old 01-18-2008, 02:49 PM
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post #12 of 76 Old 01-19-2008, 05:38 PM - Thread Starter
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I updated the first Post with pictures of the PowerBridge (closeups).

Though the instruction sheet states "The BLUE boxes are specific to each wall plate, as one has been trimmed to properly fit the POWER OUTLET plate" I see no difference between the two BLUE "Old Work" boxes and the Outlet plate does not fit totally snug to the wall. It's not bad at all, about 1/16" at the most but I may email them and ask what exactly was trimmed.

All my plates are snug..

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post #13 of 76 Old 01-29-2008, 01:57 PM
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I finally got around to taking a picture of my Pass & Seymour inlet instalation, which including modifying a 4-gang decora plate and filling in holes with a blank decora panel (available at partsexpress.com). http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/b...t=IMG_0586.jpg

Now my Epson is protected via a TrippLite UPS, and meets code.
http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/b...t=IMG_0590.jpg

http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/b...t=IMG_0591.jpg

If someone wants to tell me a better way to post pics, I am all ears.
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post #14 of 76 Old 01-29-2008, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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You can post pics directly from Reply/Post in this Forum. You do have to be in "Advance" mode, then select "Manage Attachments".

Photobucket is fine, you can also use the [IMG] directly in your posts...



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post #15 of 76 Old 02-06-2008, 11:09 AM
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Thanks for all the info on this subject. I just built my setup. Thought I would let you know that a 1.75" hole saw in one of those unbreakable plastic J-box covers you can buy at Home Depot works perfectly for this:

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post #16 of 76 Old 02-06-2008, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlatnyc View Post

Authentic Leviton Products for your PowerBridge DIY.
Thanks turbe, but that site you provided waaaay too expensive.
Thanks to johnrbek for this WebSite go on click on the links

http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B5278...DFLANGED_INLET
http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B8070...4-W_______N7-W
http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B8072...W_______N726-W
I included 2 links for matching wall plates. The dia. on one is 1.406"(80704) the other is 1.6"(80720).

Oh they also carry the clock receptacle http://kscdirect.com/item/LEV%2B688-...__CLOCK_RECEPT

That being said you could probably pick these up in a local Electrical Shop as well.

Note that neither of these wall plates will work with the Leviton inlet - I picked up both since they were less than $2 for both. The screw holes don't line up with the inlet. You could however glue the inlet on the back of the plate and then use the screw holes to secure the plate to a J-box (although I don't think they're designed for that as they're much lower than where a J-box screw holes are located - they're designed to screw onto an outlet that fits the hole. That outlet is first screwed into the J-box). Both hole diameters are too small also to drop the inlet in (top mount).
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post #17 of 76 Old 02-07-2008, 04:14 PM
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Just a quick observation. From the pictures provided by our OP it looks like the outlet is just a clock receptacle w/ a fancy wall plate.
Also I just ordered this part from Allied Electronics Marinco Flanged Inlet Its the same as the others i.e; Pass&Seymour, Hubbell, and Leviton. I checked the specs in the PDF format on Allied's web page. Here is the Marinco link. Marinco WebSite

I'm in the process of moving if not I would've posted pictures of the part. I believe it came out to around $15 w/ shipping. I'll post pictures of my install once I'm done.

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post #18 of 76 Old 02-09-2008, 08:09 AM
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Hey guys,

Where do I find the PowerBridge for around $50 ? I went to PowerBridge website and it's $69.95 for AVS members.
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post #19 of 76 Old 02-09-2008, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger View Post

Hey guys,

Where do I find the PowerBridge for around $50 ? I went to PowerBridge website and it's $69.95 for AVS members.

They did raise their price, but you can email them and ask for the $50 AVS Forum Member Price. I did this and was able to purchase their solution for $50 plus shipping.

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post #20 of 76 Old 02-09-2008, 09:48 AM
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Thanks turbe. I just emailed them.
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post #21 of 76 Old 09-02-2008, 02:54 PM
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I found an even slightly cheaper way, and is even slightly safer?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95279 with http://cgi.ebay.com/Leviton-L7-15-Lo...2em118Q2el1247 for the connection side, using an unbreakable wall plate with the 1.75" whole saw, then whatever you like on the other with some sort of proper gauge romex style wire.

I like 15 bucks a lot more than 50, and there's a little something extra it seems you get when you make a commercially available product yourself.
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post #22 of 76 Old 11-24-2008, 08:38 AM
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Can someone please explain why the TV / projector side is recessed? What's the point?
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post #23 of 76 Old 11-24-2008, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomBoomRoom View Post

Can someone please explain why the TV / projector side is recessed? What's the point?


For flat panels it is to make sure you have enough clearance behind the TV for the plug and cable so that you can mount the TV as close to the wall as possible.

For ceiling mounted projectors it isn't needed, but it does give you a slightly cleaner looking install when the bulk of the plug is hidden in a hole.
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post #24 of 76 Old 11-24-2008, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

For flat panels it is to make sure you have enough clearance behind the TV for the plug and cable so that you can mount the TV as close to the wall as possible.

For ceiling mounted projectors it isn't needed, but it does give you a slightly cleaner looking install when the bulk of the plug is hidden in a hole.

Good reasons! Thanks!
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post #25 of 76 Old 04-14-2009, 09:23 AM
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Just to update this topic since I've been coming back here to get part numbers and tips...I was having problems finding the recessed single outlet for a decent price, and stumbled across the attached solution from Midlite.

Now, they do sell their own total PowerBridge solution, but I think ordering the inlet yourself and utilizing something along these lines for outlets is a pretty good deal. I was able to pick up the recessed outlet and attached wireport with grommet for roughly $10 before shipping. Saves me on buying an outlet, recessed face plate, and another LV pass-through face plate for the cables I'll be running.

FYI, I'm using 2 of these DIY PowerBridges on my screen wall to connect my sub(s) back to the line conditioner in my rack, and a 3rd PB to the (future) projector to connect to UPS.

Site ordered from:
http://www.antonline.com/p_2GESR-5251-B-SZ_566821.htm

Hope this helps anyone else looking for similar solutions.
LL
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post #26 of 76 Old 04-28-2009, 10:30 AM
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Just to give another update.

For anyone looking to get one of the flanged inlets, but not wanting to buy from some no-name website, Amazon has this here for a good price:



http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-C.../dp/B0017SOZ8C

And they also offer this for a buck more if it floats your boat:



http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Motor-...C9ZT88Y0SJDXQK

-Suntan
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post #27 of 76 Old 04-28-2009, 04:44 PM
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Thought I would put my .02 cent here. I added up the parts you need to "make" a Powerbridge you posted.

$13.82 Inlet
$10.76 recessed outlet.

2) j boxes at HD $3.50
1) 6' extension power cord 14 awg 3 wire grounded heavy duty $9.80

Total $37.88

Ok, for those that want to save $2.07 please all means order these and make a trip to HD for the other parts, bet you'll burn that in gas!


OR>>> buy the GENUINE Powerbridge for $39.95 complete ready to install, color matched WHITE wall plates, don't need to figure out how to attach the INLET to a wall plate, which you are NOT supposed to do, FYI.
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I just don't get why "making" your own is so endorsed, can some one explain it to me based on saving $2 bucks?
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post #28 of 76 Old 04-29-2009, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avnuttyguy View Post

Thought I would put my .02 cent here. I added up the parts you need to "make" a Powerbridge you posted...

I think your addition is a little off.

For my application, the inlet will be in an unfinished area and I don't need it to look nice, just safe. The outlet will be on the ceiling and I don't want a white outlet on my black ceiling.

Further, I can get a couple of junction boxes for $.55, a black outlet with a black wall plate for $2.50 and get a short patch cord for substantially less than $9.

So $12.50 for the Wall Mount inlet, $1 for a SS blank plate to mount it on, $1.10 for the two junction boxes, $2.50 for the black outlet/plate and $3 for the patch cord. Which comes out real close to half the cost of the AVSforum discount.

I don't think anyone is really endorsing *not* buying a powerbridge, it is just the same as any other DIY vs commercially purchased tradeoff. In this case, I can get a system that better fits my needs, and costs a good deal less, by doing it myself.

-Suntan
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post #29 of 76 Old 05-15-2009, 10:17 PM
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Where can I get the short patch cords for a decent price? All of the cords I see are computer cords which dont fit the standard 3 prong inlet.
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post #30 of 76 Old 05-16-2009, 04:52 AM
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