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post #181 of 226 Old 09-22-2013, 05:29 AM
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Here's a video of my LED strips:




The cost of entry can be high depending on whether or not you buy new or used and how patient you are. My 3104's were sourced from ebay, they were well under $200 ea. I got the GRX-TVI new from ebay for $10. The big expense was the power supply, which was $80 IIRC.

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post #182 of 226 Old 09-24-2013, 07:17 AM
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a couple quick questions... I was going to order my blue rope light from 1000bulbs.com but I'm looking for a recommendation. I need about 50 ft. to cover the inside of my theater room. Do I go with the 120v or the 12v and have you found that only one strip of the light is sufficient or would you recommend purchasing the 150 ft. roll and going around the room three times?
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post #183 of 226 Old 09-25-2013, 07:38 AM
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bump for recommendations... They have a 50' package and I'm afraid the 150' might just be too much light
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post #184 of 226 Old 10-21-2013, 11:00 AM
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The Sillite plugs worked great in my setup and I thought they may in some other builds as well.


Here is some pics of the sillites plugs that I used for the rope light behind the crown. I saved a bunch of space by not using a box.

 

Here are the links:

http://www.sillites.com/newconstruction.php

http://www.buyflushmate.com/Sillites-SCR-Brown-Standard-Receptacle-Sillites-SCR-Brown-Receptacle.htm

 

 

 


The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462881/th...ruction-thread

Houston GTG - Summer 2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post26079610
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post #185 of 226 Old 10-21-2013, 03:46 PM
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I used seven sets of 15 foot 12v RGB LED 5050 lighting strips on my lounge area. Each strip is powered with a repeater. The main controller was a very reasonably price music controller. I pick this control because it was IR controlled and I was able to program a driver for my Control4 system to work it.

 

I dont think I spent over $250 on them

 

 

 

 

 

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post #186 of 226 Old 05-11-2014, 06:05 PM
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How much of a cavity do you need for the rope lighting? I would like to do hidden LED rope lighting and have it shooting through a small opening so it looks like a neon light.

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post #187 of 226 Old 05-11-2014, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClayliketheDIRT View Post

I used seven sets of 15 foot 12v RGB LED 5050 lighting strips on my lounge area. Each strip is powered with a repeater. The main controller was a very reasonably price music controller. I pick this control because it was IR controlled and I was able to program a driver for my Control4 system to work it.

 

I dont think I spent over $250 on them

 

 

 

 

 

Do you have a link to where you got your LED setup?

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post #188 of 226 Old 05-17-2014, 09:45 AM
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I bought all my lights from ebay. If you plan on using your lights for long periods of time make sure you dont buy the cheapest lights you can find. You can spend anywhere from $17-$100+ on 16 feet of RGB 5050 LED lighting strips. I also Used RGB repeaters they are for powering longer runs of LED lights. So after a length or two of lights wired up you will encounter voltage drop (The start of the LED light strips are brighter then the end). In order to correct that you are able to use reapeaters. The repeaters are seperately powered, so they are connected to a long line of LEDs and take the signal from the strip before it, and use the repeaters power to power the next strip in line but will follow the colours from the strip before it. Again you get what you pay for, so keep that in mind. This allows you to use one controller but control countless strips of light. There are many types of controllers out there, the one I am using is very cheap. I wanted one that is IR based so I could control it with an IR blaster. The one I bought also can change the lights to the sound of music. There are other types out there that are RF controllers.

 

If I was to redo my project I would of bought a more expensive LED lighting strip. I think I payed 24 dollars a roll (16ft). I dont use them that often so they still seem to work great but I do worry about them burning out.

 

they cavity they site in is 2.5 inches off the ceiling

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post #189 of 226 Old 08-12-2014, 01:59 PM
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Hers mine



Very Cool. where did you get the intro slide from?
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post #190 of 226 Old 08-12-2014, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madler View Post
Very Cool. where did you get the intro slide from?
There used to be a forum member here that would make them for whoever wanted them... I used to have one, but I lost it over the years. I wish I knew who it was so I could get one again. I am not sure if the same person made it for him, but it looks just like the one I had (except for the name of course).

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post #191 of 226 Old 08-14-2014, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClayliketheDIRT View Post
I bought all my lights from ebay. If you plan on using your lights for long periods of time make sure you dont buy the cheapest lights you can find. You can spend anywhere from $17-$100+ on 16 feet of RGB 5050 LED lighting strips. I also Used RGB repeaters they are for powering longer runs of LED lights. So after a length or two of lights wired up you will encounter voltage drop (The start of the LED light strips are brighter then the end). In order to correct that you are able to use reapeaters. The repeaters are seperately powered, so they are connected to a long line of LEDs and take the signal from the strip before it, and use the repeaters power to power the next strip in line but will follow the colours from the strip before it. Again you get what you pay for, so keep that in mind. This allows you to use one controller but control countless strips of light. There are many types of controllers out there, the one I am using is very cheap. I wanted one that is IR based so I could control it with an IR blaster. The one I bought also can change the lights to the sound of music. There are other types out there that are RF controllers.

If I was to redo my project I would of bought a more expensive LED lighting strip. I think I payed 24 dollars a roll (16ft). I dont use them that often so they still seem to work great but I do worry about them burning out.

they cavity they site in is 2.5 inches off the ceiling
Which repeaters did you use? Also, did you power the repeaters with drop cords or do you have multiple outlets?

Last edited by wraunch; 08-14-2014 at 06:36 AM. Reason: because I needed to
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post #192 of 226 Old 08-14-2014, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
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Very Cool. where did you get the intro slide from?


http://ivipid.com/
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post #193 of 226 Old 08-14-2014, 06:58 AM
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I want to share. Room isn't complete yet but I think they look pretty good. LEDs are RGB 5050 and I can do just about any color I want as well as do various effects with them. Most of the time they are all one color but I can make the soffit, step, and columns all different colors if I choose.

Riser Step:






Columns:






Soffit:


Current Room Status:




And a little side project that I also used LED light strips for:










Hopefully I'll be able to update this post in the next couple months with completed room pics.
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post #194 of 226 Old 08-14-2014, 07:00 AM
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Awesome posters of two great movies. How did you mount the LEDs under the riser lip? I want to do the same soon.
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post #195 of 226 Old 08-14-2014, 07:19 AM
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Thanks.

I left a gap between the front roundover on my nosing and the vertical portion of the riser. This gap was just large enough to accommodate the width of an LED strip and the thickness of the carpet. My carpet runs up the face of the riser and was stapled at the top under the nosing. The nosing was painted which helped because I didn't have to fit carpet that was wrapped over it. The sticky side of the LED strip (and maybe a little friction from the carpet) is all that holds the strip in place. I don't think I have any shots with the LED strip in there but I might be able to get one tonight if needed. Here are a couple without the carpet and lights to show the gap I started with.



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post #196 of 226 Old 08-14-2014, 09:11 AM
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Vanice,

Its possible I will be doing the exact same thing with select pine (stained). Hoping with pad and carpet, the results will be similiar to yours. I only have one piece of plywood for my riser floor. Hoping this extra piece in the front will make the lip of the riser more sturdy...
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post #197 of 226 Old 08-14-2014, 09:46 AM
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You'll definitely want to use adhesive under the nosing piece along with screws. I used strong construction adhesive under the nosing to hold it to the OSB. The screws you see were mainly to hold the piece in place while the adhesive set up. This will give you a very strong connection between the two and may also help with making things a little more solid. Also triple check measurements. Make sure it is where you want it because it will be near impossible to move later should you need to. I nearly made this mistake by installing the nosing piece a 1/2" too close to the riser. I wouldn't have had space for the lights which was the whole reason for doing it this way in the first place.
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post #198 of 226 Old 08-18-2014, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post
Which repeaters did you use? Also, did you power the repeaters with drop cords or do you have multiple outlets?
I bought some cheap ones from ebay, they where about 12 dollars each. I also did use drops to run each repeater and everything is running off a large power supply.
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post #199 of 226 Old 08-18-2014, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madler View Post
Very Cool. where did you get the intro slide from?
There was member that did these but must be 5 or 6 years ago.

There are other options out there using a program called Blender (Disney and PIXAR). you might still be able to find the files & instructions on here.
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post #200 of 226 Old 09-05-2014, 10:08 AM
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Hi All;

Getting ready to start construction on my theater, and I have decided that I want to do rope lighting accents in the ceiling as well as the seating riser. I need to do a low voltage setup, and I want to be able to control the brightness levels, preferably with an infrared remote.

I have no idea what parts to get, or where to get them. I think I would like to go with a multi colored setup as some have done. I am kind of a noob when it comes to this stuff.

Does anyone have a ballpark parts list and a good source to get everything? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

JT
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post #201 of 226 Old 09-05-2014, 11:05 AM
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Hi All;

Getting ready to start construction on my theater, and I have decided that I want to do rope lighting accents in the ceiling as well as the seating riser. I need to do a low voltage setup, and I want to be able to control the brightness levels, preferably with an infrared remote.

I have no idea what parts to get, or where to get them. I think I would like to go with a multi colored setup as some have done. I am kind of a noob when it comes to this stuff.

Does anyone have a ballpark parts list and a good source to get everything? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

JT
I went with some low voltage rope lighting off of Amazon (dimmable), and to control it I got some dimmable Insteon outlets. The outlets worked fine except I couldn't turn off the lighting (only dim and bright). I found this. I also needed to get a dummy plug as the Insteon dim outlet is 2 prong and the plug that allowed me to turn it off was a 3 prong. Everything works fine except it is a little awkward having 2 pieces hanging off of the outlet as sometimes the dummy plug wants to fall out just enough to loose the connection.

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post #202 of 226 Old 09-05-2014, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micp_jt View Post
Hi All;

Getting ready to start construction on my theater, and I have decided that I want to do rope lighting accents in the ceiling as well as the seating riser. I need to do a low voltage setup, and I want to be able to control the brightness levels, preferably with an infrared remote.

I have no idea what parts to get, or where to get them. I think I would like to go with a multi colored setup as some have done. I am kind of a noob when it comes to this stuff.

Does anyone have a ballpark parts list and a good source to get everything? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

JT
PM sent. Has links to stuff similar to what I purchased. All from ebay.
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post #203 of 226 Old 09-05-2014, 11:31 AM
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PM sent. Has links to stuff similar to what I purchased. All from ebay.
Thanks very much. I think my wife will thank you for keeping me from going off-track on this, lol

JT
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post #204 of 226 Old 09-05-2014, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
I went with some low voltage rope lighting off of Amazon (dimmable), and to control it I got some dimmable Insteon outlets. The outlets worked fine except I couldn't turn off the lighting (only dim and bright). I found this. I also needed to get a dummy plug as the Insteon dim outlet is 2 prong and the plug that allowed me to turn it off was a 3 prong. Everything works fine except it is a little awkward having 2 pieces hanging off of the outlet as sometimes the dummy plug wants to fall out just enough to loose the connection.
I will get on Amazon and take a look. Thank you.
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post #205 of 226 Old 09-05-2014, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post
I want to share. Room isn't complete yet but I think they look pretty good. LEDs are RGB 5050 and I can do just about any color I want as well as do various effects with them. Most of the time they are all one color but I can make the soffit, step, and columns all different colors if I choose.

Soffit:


Current Room Status:




They look pretty bright, do most people keep their LED rope lights on or off when their watching movies?
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post #206 of 226 Old 09-05-2014, 06:10 PM
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I turn off all but the stairs ones (which are dimmed to 5%)... Some people turn all of the lighting off. I dim or turn off until I get no more blue (blue LEDS) making it to the screen.

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post #207 of 226 Old 09-08-2014, 05:34 AM
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Typically turn everything off when watching movies. I leave all LEDs on when gaming. It does bleed light to the screen but I am less critical of it when gaming. Plus it allows me to do other tasks between matches.
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post #208 of 226 Old 01-22-2015, 08:58 AM
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post #209 of 226 Old 03-05-2016, 08:33 PM
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I don't understand the wiring on this.

I am REALLY late to the party (my theater starts construction next Wednesday (and no not by me)) but should I plan to have AC outlets where the rope lights terminate?

Also do I need 12V or 24V? I was looking at LED tape strips at 1000 bulbs dot com

Should I be looking somewhere else?

Thanks.
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post #210 of 226 Old 03-06-2016, 06:58 AM
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Safe bet is put both an AC wall outlet AND a box for conduit to 'somewhere else' for control wiring. This way you're covered either way. There are such things as a 2-gang mounting box that has one side enclosed for AC wiring and the other open for low voltage. You put a double-gang faceplate over it.

A point to consider it make sure there's suitable room to hide things. My one mistake in a ceiling tray was not taking into account being able to see the outlet box from the other side of the room. Now, only I know it's there and nobody else would likely see it. But during the frenzy of planning and construction that one detail slipped my attention. The solution? I just painted the transformer stuck in the outlet to the same color as the surrounding trim!

Had I planned better I would not have powered the outlet there. I'd have pulled a conduit from the wall switch location to somewhere out of sight (in this case, the attic above) and then conduit from there to the tray. I'd have then been able to run either AC or low voltage to/from any of them. Now that the walls (exterior) are spray foam insulated I'm kind of out of luck.

As for tape suppliers, there's a lot of them. My advice, if you want consistent lighting all the across the display the purchase it as a roll of tape, NOT SECTIONS. With sections you run the chance of slight color differences between them. With one tape that's quite a lot less likely (but cheap tape can still let you down anyway).
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