AVS Forum Special Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bethesda, MD USA
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 321 Post(s)
I take it e* on the left/right above the seating is the intended outlet for the lighting mentioned here? I take it there's going to be some kind of soffit or other means to hide the ropes?
Recessed outlets seem like a cool idea until you realize a wall wart won't fit. I have one like that and had to use an extension. There are such things as larger recessed boxes and if you had room, yeah, that'd be great.
Yes, pulling conduit from them back to the rack's location would probably be ideal. That way you could run whatever's necessary. Just realize that this will entail splicing wires together to connect to the tape. There are plenty of kits available to make that work. Essentially you have a clamp-on fitting that goes onto the end of the tape. From there you have pigtails of wire onto which you splice your longer in-conduit wire. Snake that back to the rack (or wherever) and make the connections to the controller. Consider carefully what kind of controller you're going to use as some are RF and can go through walls vs some that are Infrared and require direct line-of-sight. One controlled via RF would certainly be less trouble than IR. Using wall-switch dimmers works, except there aren't any color-control options (at least not with a standard single-gang wall box position).
My first sentence assumed your lights were being controlled from one outlet. And that you weren't set on what kind of power/control to use for them. That being the case, putting an outlet AND a conduit serves to give you options down the road. If you put an outlet and you control it by a switch, do NOT install it with just 14/2 (two wires). Have the electrician pull 14/3 to it, leaving the red un-connected. That'd allow you, later, to potentially change from a switch-controlled light to one that required constant power. the price difference in the wire is negligible and the install labor the same.