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Old 09-09-2015, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by lemonslush View Post
Not a recent pic but this is my DIY rack.

That 3rd iNuke not on? For future usage or ....
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Old 09-09-2015, 11:28 AM
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These look great. Alas, I chose a simpler solution: Xtreme Garage (formerly Gorilla Rack) systems from Menards support both my components and my display. My plan was to partition the room so that components were behind a wall, arranged so you could walk in front of or behind them for any manual access, with only the display and speakers visible from outside. This serves the dual purpose of concealing LED lights and noise isolation from fans and hard drives. Wired IR repeaters would handle control of the devices. Entire disc library would also be stored in that area. Power derives from two long power strips with outlets staggered between them mounted to the existing soffit.

Unfortunately, recent developments have forced my planned theater room into serving as a storeroom shortly after finally acquiring the projection screen, and my largest display and speaker setup is now in a room ill-suited for viewing or listening.
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Old 09-09-2015, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by IamCornholio View Post
My simple DIY
any more pics on the dvd rack?

I want to die in my sleep like grandpa... not kicking and screaming like the people in his car.
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Old 09-17-2015, 02:07 PM
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This is a way before pic. Never could get wiring truly organized with the rear of the equipment against the wall.


Add a newer receiver as well as keeping the old for other zones, blu ray player, hdmi switch etc. and the problem only continues to get worse. Time to bust the wall open and do something about it.

I was going to make my own wooden shelves and simply use rack rails to add DIY face plates similar to what I've seen here on the forum. Then I considered the work, painting, and added hardware needed (shelf supports above are really long at 22") along with a nice piece of birch and I figured I would be close to breaking even by getting rack shelves. Shopped around and got some good deals on Amazon and Sears and this is where it stands as of last night. Took a couple of weekends worth of time to get here.







I added a nice power conditioner and the 2 rack drawers which added to the cost but I feel it was worth it. Still have to make the face plates but I'm extremely pleased with the organization and space that I have been able to gain from doing this. It was tough before to go in there to try and do anything.
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Last edited by oman321; 09-17-2015 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 09-17-2015, 02:25 PM
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@oman321 I really like that. I am working on my rack as we speak! Why did you use for to hold up the shelves, also how wide was your trim?? Lastly how wide and long is your opening??
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Old 09-17-2015, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsuave View Post
@oman321 I really like that. I am working on my rack as we speak! Why did you use for to hold up the shelves, also how wide was your trim?? Lastly how wide and long is your opening??
Thanks bsuave

I used 2 sets of these rack rails
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s01

with these screws
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o09_s00

Your finished width should be 19 inches and an 1/8th to give you some wiggle room for the shelves, standard rack width is 19". The opening height in a little a bit over 52 inches. because the closet is underneath the steps I had to deal with ceiling slope so I went as high as I could. Also went pretty low because working with existing finished wall and I was trying to properly secure framing.

If I did it again I would get full length set of rails but my plans changed after obtaining the rails, if you look closely to the left and right of the PS3 you'll see where the rails break. That won't be seen after I make the face plates so no big.

I did rough framing and then got 1x5 trim finish all around and the rails got attached to that. Then standard door and window trim on the wall.
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Old 09-17-2015, 03:24 PM
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DIY A/V rack?

Any way you can take closet pics of where the racks are mounted? What about the shelves?? Looks awesome.

-thanks
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Old 09-17-2015, 04:18 PM
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Here are some pics. Shelves just get attached to the rails with the screws I linked above. 4 screws per shelf. Very stable.

I attached each rail with 4 one and half inch long, 1/4 inch wide lag bolts and washers. You can see on the trim that I pre-drilled the holes for the lag bolts. If you need closer pics let me know and I will get for you.












Last edited by oman321; 09-17-2015 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 09-17-2015, 04:58 PM
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Okay thanks. Here is my opening. It's 19-1/4" wide.

Now my next set of questions.... Lol. Does your frame line up with the Sheetrock or inside with the frame of the walls? If it's inside with wall frame, do you just have the trim around the outside with a small gap?? Again if it's in the wall (lined up) how much Sheetrock did you trim off around the 2x4/2x6??
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Old 09-17-2015, 05:19 PM
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This pic shows the 1x5 trim that I used. The rough opening was about 21"wide or so. You can see the rough framing a little bit at the top there.


The 1x5 covers the front and back edge of the sheetrock. Then I did the window trim with a 1/4 inch reveal.

When I tore into the wall I tried to make the opening the size of the of the rough opening so about 21", then I placed the rough framing into the cavity I created. With the trim it makes the final opening that I needed.

If your rough framing is 19 and 1/4 then you'd want to bring the rails flush with the sheet rock and then trim around the opening on the wall.

Last edited by oman321; 09-17-2015 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 09-17-2015, 05:28 PM
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This photo shows the opening before putting in the vertical 2x4's.
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Old 09-17-2015, 05:42 PM
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Okay so how will the cover plates work over the screws that are holding up the shelf?? Do you cut the cover plates around where the shelves are screwed in? And thanks again for sharing some knowledge on this!!! I had bought Rubbermaid rails and we're going to make MDF shelves but the width was too small to screw DIY panels into 2x4/Sheetrock.
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Old 09-17-2015, 06:38 PM
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The cover plates are drilled, so the screws hold the face plate and the shelf.
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Old 09-17-2015, 07:17 PM
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Like Tedd said drill thru the face of the plate. I was thinking about this earlier though and I don't want to remove equipment, so I may drill a sideways U shape at the edges according to screw location on the left and right so that I would simply need to loosen the screws and slip the plate in. I'll test on scrap first and see how it works out.
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Last edited by oman321; 09-17-2015 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 09-17-2015, 07:28 PM
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DIY A/V rack?

So how wide are the shelves that you used? Where did you order those from? Seeing that I am at 19-1/4" already, I wonder if I will be able to still get the rails inside.
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Old 09-17-2015, 08:05 PM
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They are standard rack shelves, 19" inches wide. Got all the shelves on Amazon. Found the drawers at Sears.com for the best price.

You should be fine at 19 and 1/4. That 1/4 inch wiggle room is helpful. The holes in shelves and drawers are oval shape.
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Old 09-17-2015, 08:09 PM
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Most of my shelves and the drawers are from navepoint. They shipped from them . You can buy directly from them with free shipping as well.
https://www.navepoint.com/
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Last edited by oman321; 09-17-2015 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 09-18-2015, 06:07 AM
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I see that everyone has 1/4" wood showing inside of the trim. Would it look right if I had to put the trim right up to the edge?? I keep asking questions to see if I need to tear it down and start over. Wife wants to paint this weekend, so I need to get it done before that.
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Old 09-18-2015, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post
Found the drawers at Sears.com for the best price.

I never would have thought of Sears as a rack drawer supplier.... good to know.


Another idea, if you have blanks is to attach them to the rails and "mock" up the assembly, this will aid in getting the width right and also aligning the screw holes level from one rail to the other
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Old 09-18-2015, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsuave View Post
I see that everyone has 1/4" wood showing inside of the trim. Would it look right if I had to put the trim right up to the edge?? I keep asking questions to see if I need to tear it down and start over. Wife wants to paint this weekend, so I need to get it done before that.

Really it's personal preference unless you are trying to hide a slight bow or imperfection in the frame. Personally if its a "typical" casing profile I prefer the 1/8 - 1/4" reveal, if its square stock "mission style" looking then I lean towards flush
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Old 09-18-2015, 07:09 AM
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^^^^ here's my dilemma. Opening is already at 19-1/4"
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Old 09-18-2015, 07:10 AM
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Do I trim off some Sheetrock, but then I have a gap.
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Old 09-18-2015, 07:20 AM
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So your rough in dimension between studs is 19 1/4", do you have the rails?
If so check if you can have the rails far enough forward and still get a good anchor into the studs
This unfortunately will put the front of the equipment proud od the wall which might not be what you want
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Old 09-18-2015, 07:56 AM
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I'll double check the thickness of the rails where they attach to wall for you tonight. You could attach the rail flush with the stud and then put a small piece of trim on the sheetrock edge with liquid nails, maybe cutting back sheetrock just a little so that the trim doesn't interfere with the screws. Like Waterboy77 said though that will bring equipment further into the room. No reason you couldn't do that and set the rails where you want them. Once it's all painted, it will blend in.
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:20 AM
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It should hold fine. The frame has wall studs on each side of the cutout, so i could bring the rails closer out. I have a solution, i just talked with my dad, and he suggested to cut the sheetrock back and finish nail a 3/4 x 1" strip of trim or 1x1 (whichever is the same thickness) and i should be able to create the look that everyone has. What ya think??

-Brion
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Old 09-18-2015, 11:46 AM
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Sounds like a plan bsuave. I say go for it.
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Old 09-18-2015, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsuave View Post
It should hold fine. The frame has wall studs on each side of the cutout, so i could bring the rails closer out. I have a solution, i just talked with my dad, and he suggested to cut the sheetrock back and finish nail a 3/4 x 1" strip of trim or 1x1 (whichever is the same thickness) and i should be able to create the look that everyone has. What ya think??

-Brion

So just to get back to you bsuave. the depth of the rail is 1.5" with the center hole right at 3/4's of an inch. Your Dad gave you a great solution, and it will allow you to set the rail at the proper depth of your opening. Best of luck.
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Old 09-19-2015, 05:24 AM
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Thanks guys, I'm off today to find the 1/2 x 1 to match the Sheetrock.
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:52 PM
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Okay, wife started priming before I could get pics of wood insert trim.

Worked Perfectly!! Thanks guys!!
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:12 AM
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Looks good bsuave, very good solution.
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