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post #331 of 352 Old 01-15-2016, 06:55 AM
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DIY A/V rack?

You can always be safe and double up for more strength.
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post #332 of 352 Old 01-15-2016, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glimmie View Post
RE: Load bearing wall.

I'm not a licensed contractor or structural engineer. But I think even if it's a load bearing wall moving a stud from 16in OC to 20-22in OC isn't going to cause any problems in a three story house.
Probably not, but if you have access and it is indeed load bearing (not in the OP's case), there's not much reason to not install a full doubled-up header and brace studs to direct the load around to the two closest remaining studs... cost vs. piece of mind I guess.

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post #333 of 352 Old 01-15-2016, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glimmie View Post
First may I suggest instead of just using rails, buy a Mid Atlantic SLIM5 rack. The extra money is well worth having a framed rack with rear rails.

This is also a good point.
I built a rack like the one that you linked.... I love DIY and saving some money..... but when my wife found me a two pole rack for FREE things changed. Its surprising the deals that can be found out there. I am also finding it a lot easier to work with.

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POST on the Rack I got
POST on Rack installed

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post #334 of 352 Old 04-07-2016, 04:22 PM
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I'm going to show my lack of carpentry skills with this question, but I wanted to understand before I went tearing into the wall. In the below picture, I'm assuming the drywall is cut back slightly with a bit of a reveal to the stud. So the casing edge sits flush with the edge of the drywall correct?

If so, wouldn't you see the imperfections and rough cut off the drywall between the casing and the stud frame?

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Originally Posted by oman321 View Post


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post #335 of 352 Old 04-07-2016, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKiTLz View Post
I'm going to show my lack of carpentry skills with this question, but I wanted to understand before I went tearing into the wall. In the below picture, I'm assuming the drywall is cut back slightly with a bit of a reveal to the stud. So the casing edge sits flush with the edge of the drywall correct?

If so, wouldn't you see the imperfections and rough cut off the drywall between the casing and the stud frame?
Hi SKiTLz,

What you are seeing in that picture is not the 2x4 rough framing, but the 1x5 finish frame. So I made the rough frame as flush as possible with the sheetrock. Then the 1x5 goes on the face of the 2x4 and sheetrock ending up flush with wall surface. My Earlier pictures should show the rough framing. Then casing show about 1/8th reveal on the 1x5.

Most importantly is to be certain that the finished opening ends up between 19 1/8 to 19 1/4. Any less and it will be a tight squeeze for the shelves.

Best of luck.
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post #336 of 352 Old 04-07-2016, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKiTLz View Post
I'm going to show my lack of carpentry skills with this question, but I wanted to understand before I went tearing into the wall. In the below picture, I'm assuming the drywall is cut back slightly with a bit of a reveal to the stud. So the casing edge sits flush with the edge of the drywall correct?

If so, wouldn't you see the imperfections and rough cut off the drywall between the casing and the stud frame?

The "wall box" edge would go to the outside vertical edge of the drywall.... hope that makes sense
Then the trim / casing would nail into the "wall box" and drywall
Then no drywall edge shown

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post #337 of 352 Old 04-07-2016, 05:53 PM
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Much like hanging a door, there's usually a frame that's placed in-between the rough framing lumber. For various reasons like the framing may well NOT be true or vary due to warping. Using a box gives you a way to guarantee your dimensions, alignment and surface quality. You'd then shim the box against the adjacent rough framing. Taking into account whatever load you might need it to carry. If it's just decorative, as part of a pass-through to a rack then it might not need much more than just a few screws through shims (much the same as a regular door). But if it was going to carry load then you'd want to make sure it was resting securely and attached effectively.

Bear in mind (pun intended) that the rough framing may be part of a structure carrying load. This may require additional framing. It's impossible to know this from just that picture. Thus it's often best to assume that it might be load bearing and re-frame accordingly. This may entail removing more drywall than just for the desired opening size. Hard to know without seeing more of the wall and the rest of the structure.
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post #338 of 352 Old 04-08-2016, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post
Hi SKiTLz,

What you are seeing in that picture is not the 2x4 rough framing, but the 1x5 finish frame. So I made the rough frame as flush as possible with the sheetrock. Then the 1x5 goes on the face of the 2x4 and sheetrock ending up flush with wall surface. My Earlier pictures should show the rough framing. Then casing show about 1/8th reveal on the 1x5.

Most importantly is to be certain that the finished opening ends up between 19 1/8 to 19 1/4. Any less and it will be a tight squeeze for the shelves.

Best of luck.
Ahh that makes way more sense to me. Thanks for the explanation. I know just enough to be dangerous but figured I'd give it a shot, then pay someone double to finish it should I screw up that badly. haha

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post #339 of 352 Old 04-08-2016, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
Much like hanging a door, there's usually a frame that's placed in-between the rough framing lumber. For various reasons like the framing may well NOT be true or vary due to warping. Using a box gives you a way to guarantee your dimensions, alignment and surface quality. You'd then shim the box against the adjacent rough framing. Taking into account whatever load you might need it to carry. If it's just decorative, as part of a pass-through to a rack then it might not need much more than just a few screws through shims (much the same as a regular door). But if it was going to carry load then you'd want to make sure it was resting securely and attached effectively.

Bear in mind (pun intended) that the rough framing may be part of a structure carrying load. This may require additional framing. It's impossible to know this from just that picture. Thus it's often best to assume that it might be load bearing and re-frame accordingly. This may entail removing more drywall than just for the desired opening size. Hard to know without seeing more of the wall and the rest of the structure.
Good info. Fortunately the rear of my wall is unfinished so I'll snap a few pics and go from there before I start hacking into it. At first glance I'd say it is load bearing and will need to be re-framed.

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post #340 of 352 Old 04-08-2016, 01:45 PM
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One more quick question, what is the recommended way of securing the 1x5 frame to the rough frame? I see lag bolts are recommended for the rails to the 1x5 which makes sense given the weight, would you also use lag bolts between the 1x5 and 2x4 rough frame?

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post #341 of 352 Old 04-08-2016, 02:01 PM
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I used framing nails to build out frame to existing and bridge at top and bottom of my opening to make up for support.
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post #342 of 352 Old 04-10-2016, 03:11 PM
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Ok here is my wall and my proposed "re-framing" idea, excuse the temporary cabling. The electrical box pictured will be relocated

1. As it appears to be load bearing, do I need a temp support while I cut the middle stud?
2. Does this look correct from a strength perspective?
3. Bit of an odd question, but will the rack rails/screws thread both ways? I ask because I have some equipment I don't need/want visible. I thought If I can thread screws from the rear I can mount some shelves on the backside behind the drywall for the non-visible items.
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post #343 of 352 Old 04-10-2016, 03:49 PM
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1) it does not appear to be load bearing the pieces it is holding up look like blocking put between the two floor/ceiling joists on either side of the wall which appears to be running parallel to the joists. I'd have to stand on a ladder with a flashlight and look in the dark areas to see if it is holding anything up. It may be holding up some structure of a lowered ceiling in the adjacent room. At the same level as the yellow box.

2) your diagram looks good

3) probably just like you can put a bolt in either side of a nut.

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post #344 of 352 Old 04-10-2016, 04:28 PM
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You might want to double up those studs surrounding the av rack opening, for when you trim out the opening. That way there'll be something to nail into,
for the outside edge of the trim.


As for bullet #3 , I was curious, and since there's an unassembled MA Slim5 on the stairs and a jar of screws nearby.... The answer is yes they do thread in
from the backside of the rail. But they also extend about 1/2 an inch beyond the face of the rail, so you might need to allow for that, or simply use short bolts
instead of racks screws.

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post #345 of 352 Old 04-10-2016, 04:40 PM
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Great, thanks gents.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
You might want to double up those studs surrounding the av rack opening, for when you trim out the opening. That way there'll be something to nail into,
for the outside edge of the trim.
Lost me a bit on this one. I had intended to put up additional 1x5 "finishing" studs attached to the rough framing in my diagram. It was suggested earlier but another member.
If that is what you meant, then yes that is the game plan I just didn't illustrate it in the drawing.

Cheers

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post #346 of 352 Old 04-10-2016, 05:35 PM
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Works just fine if you don't use trim, or it isn't much wider then 2.25". 1.5" for the stud width, and 3/4" of width for the 1x5".


If it was brought up, I missed that had been covered already.

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post #347 of 352 Old 04-24-2016, 05:01 AM
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Hey guys just wanted to throw the question out there before I throw a companies name out for supplies for DIY racks. I have no affiliation with the company other than being a customer. Is this a no no or is it acceptable to throw props to a company that provided me good service.

Reason I thought this would be a appropriate place is cause it's DIY which to me means people looking for cost effective options. Not sure if their products are as renowned as MA stuff but for good quality reasonable cost stuff I thought they were pretty good.

So is it appropriate for me to throw their name out there?

Thanks for the guidance.


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post #348 of 352 Old 04-24-2016, 06:11 AM
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I think the usual way to introduce something is to first not be involved in selling the products. As in, not masquerading as a consumer while making a sales pitch.

Then it's usually just asking a question about a brand or particular model of something. But a recommendation based on successful experience is good too.

Have you searched for them being mentioned here in other threads? Might want to check for that first, if just to avoid being surprised if they're reputation isn't as good with others...

Who's the supplier?
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post #349 of 352 Old 04-24-2016, 06:50 AM
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I post vendor and product links all the time, things I've learned or experienced. I've never made a nickel from anything I've posted. There was a time when AVS had their own proprietary sales division and when someone posted a link to the competition it got awkward. That division was spun off, and AVS has gone through two different owners. All they care about now is ad revenue.
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post #350 of 352 Old 04-24-2016, 07:36 PM
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Did you gents leave any vertical spacing above/below the rails? My opening after the 1x5 finishing fits the rails perfectly, I'm just worried that rack mount items/shelves might need a little extra space above/below the first/last hole. I don't have anything on hand to test with.

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post #351 of 352 Old 04-24-2016, 08:07 PM
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Thanks for the guidance. And no I'm not benefiting from this, just built my own DIY rack based on info from the forums here.

Anyway the place is pennelcomonline and Ti think they are some sort of factory direct retailer for European based pennelcom. Parts express also sells this brand product. Anyway I think they are new to the us and I was one of the first customers. They are working through some quirks such as waiting on inventory to arrive to stock up but they are really communicative and quick to respond. There was an issue with one of the shelves I ordered and the first thing on the following day they called me to suggest an alternative in stock item or refund my payment if I needed something sooner. The alternative was actually a better fit for what I needed and they gave it to me for the same price even though it costed a few bucks more.

Looks like their products aren't quite as customized as MA brand stuff (prepunched faceplates) but the prices are not at that level either. Anyway I had a good experience and wanted to throw it out there to you fellow diyers as they may have what you're looking for as well.




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post #352 of 352 Old 04-24-2016, 08:18 PM
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Managed to get it framed today. Took me longer than I care to say, but it's bang on measurement wise so It should be smooth sailing from here on out.
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