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post #181 of 234 Old 01-06-2012, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by armstrr View Post

but have you ever built a 48" tall drawer that extends 28" with 300lbs of rack/equip?

That would be a no . I'll definitely report back.

I'm not too worried about the slides themselves jamming. The rack 'racking' forward and back I'm not too worried about because I'm essentially building solid 3/4" plywood sides firmly attached to steel rails at the front and the back. I'll drill big holes as needed for ventilation.

I *AM* a bit worried about the rack racking laterally. For the back, I'm planning to go with 5" tall plywood at the bottom and top, and some steel cross braces.

The front is tougher. I clearly don't want angle braces on the front, and I'm too cheap (for now) to buy heavy duty face plates for all of my equipment and machine them. I've got two HBL2 2U (3.5" tall) thick aluminum front blank plates for the top/bottom. I'm hoping they give me some racking support in the front. We'll see.

The funny thing is that I'm WAY overbuilding this for some potential future use. For now, I'll probably have:
  • AVR: 30 lbs
  • PS3: 10 lbs
  • Cable Box: 10 lbs

When I'm done, my RACK will probably weigh as much as all the equipment combined!

But, I'll have a lot of fun building it! And for years, I'll be able to talk about how it'll be able to handle my separate amps and video processors and HTPC's and all the other stuff that I'll actually never get. But I'll have racks that can handle them!

LOL... sounds WAY too much like me and my plans for what I'm going to build.

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Originally Posted by ejhuzy View Post

Here's a shot of my DIY rack. Mine's real simple, but spacious and effective. It didn't have to be real pretty because it's living in a closet.



Get's the job done and it only cost around $75 for materials. Shelves are all adjustable. I used those furniture moving pads on the bottom to make it easy to move around.

The area that my components will be housed looks almost identical to that. However I'm going to turn them 90 degrees to the left and open a hole in the wall on that side as that is the room my HT is to the right. Cant wait to get started on the new house and project then post pics.
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post #182 of 234 Old 01-06-2012, 09:26 PM
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Sorry for the double post... having trouble editing the first
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post #183 of 234 Old 02-21-2012, 01:11 PM
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Has anyone used a smoked glass or plexiglass as the panel for their A/V cabinet door (closet)?

I've built a 22 w x 77 h a/v rack and it has an identical space beside it under the stairs (storgage). I'm finishing off by trimming and adding two doors.

Will the above mentioned glass or plexiglass pass the IR signals?

If not glass, has anyone used a wire/mesh design as the panel in the door?

Van G

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post #184 of 234 Old 02-21-2012, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Van G View Post

Has anyone used a smoked glass or plexiglass as the panel for their A/V cabinet door (closet)?

I've built a 22 w x 77 h a/v rack and it has an identical space beside it under the stairs (storgage). I'm finishing off by trimming and adding two doors.

Will the above mentioned glass or plexiglass pass the IR signals?

If not glass, has anyone used a wire/mesh design as the panel in the door?

a nice mesh box around everything would suffice as long as kids are not an issue, this way nothing reflects and it looks cool when all u see are lights comming thru the mesh,

usually people get the fabric and make sound dampening squares for their ht rooms, but it has also been used to fame a decorative frame around the rack as well, kind of like a bra for the ht equipment haha!!

check with the build section, people can tell u were to get the materiel, if i did not have 2 handsy kids, who love electronics and stuff, i would go that route, and just might and have to hand out a few more smacked lil hands than usual!

POST SOME PICS OF THE BUILD! want to see how u designed it and connected the shelves?

thanks!
j
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post #185 of 234 Old 02-21-2012, 03:29 PM
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My smoked glass doors DO pass IR remote control signals.

Kevin
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post #186 of 234 Old 02-24-2012, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j2048b View Post

a nice mesh box around everything would suffice as long as kids are not an issue, this way nothing reflects and it looks cool when all u see are lights comming thru the mesh,

usually people get the fabric and make sound dampening squares for their ht rooms, but it has also been used to fame a decorative frame around the rack as well, kind of like a bra for the ht equipment haha!!

j

Thanks for the post J. I've got a 4 yr old daughter who likes to think she runs the A/V club in our house so getting a closed door across the equipment is important to remind her that's it's not play gear in addition to keeping the things quiet.

Kevin, what material did you use for the smoked glass? plexi or glass
Any pictures?

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post #187 of 234 Old 02-24-2012, 03:30 PM
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It's a real glass door. Part of a commercial audio equipment cabinet. It must be 25 years old.

Kevin
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post #188 of 234 Old 02-27-2012, 01:06 PM
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When I built my DIY rack (through wall into a closet) I wanted a tempered smoked glass door. I searched around the local area and found out that (1) most glass stores don't carry tempered glass, (2) if a custom size is required it has to be ordered and (3) was expensive, or more than I thought. Then I found this company:

www.onedayglass.com

I order my custom door through them on line and even with shipping it was cheaper than ordering locally. The best part was the turn-around time! I had my product before the local places could get it. They can do almost any size and shape to the nearest 1/16th of an inch.

Note: I am in no way affiliated with this company....just a VERY happy customer!

Perfection is highly overrated!!!
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post #189 of 234 Old 02-27-2012, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chas821 View Post

When I built my DIY rack (through wall into a closet) I wanted a tempered smoked glass door. I searched around the local area and found out that (1) most glass stores don't carry tempered glass, (2) if a custom size is required it has to be ordered and (3) was expensive, or more than I thought. Then I found this company:

www.onedayglass.com

I order my custom door through them on line and even with shipping it was cheaper than ordering locally. The best part was the turn-around time! I had my product before the local places could get it. They can do almost any size and shape to the nearest 1/16th of an inch.

Note: I am in no way affiliated with this company....just a VERY happy customer!

how did u mount the door, any pics or a build thread of any sort?

thanks!
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post #190 of 234 Old 02-27-2012, 04:45 PM
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Hey Chas thanks for posting that site. Please do tell us more and pics too.

Like j2048b, I would like to see/know what kind of hardware did you use, what edge finish did you choose and what thickness of glass?

Thanks,

Dale
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post #191 of 234 Old 03-01-2012, 12:28 PM
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My apologies for not replying sooner. Too much going on (birthdays and such)!

To j2048b: The door was mounted using hardware I got from Rockler (http://www.rockler.com). The actual hardware are called pivot hinges found here (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...2&site=ROCKLER). They mount to the outside edges of the glass top and bottom and have a pin that fits into a plastic bushing that is fit into a hole drilled into the casing/trim of the DIY rack opening. Here are the details: http://www.rockler.com/tech/30015-031.pdf

I added a magnetic plunger catch (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...5&site=ROCKLER)

CAVEAT: These pivot hinges only support 28 Lbs max. My door was about 21" x 32" and came in under 27 lbs so I was good to go.

To dvmiller: I ordered the 1/4" glass as it would fit the hardware. I also ordered it with the pencil grind finish as it was extra cost for the pencil gloss finish and that the gloss finish took longer. No one will pay much attention to the edges anyway!

I don't have a build thread since all I did when I moved into my house 5 years ago was take over the "game room", adding a DIY screen, projo, existing sound equipment (5.1), recliners from a local store and paint. The rack was DIY, cutting open the wall between the "theater" and an existing room's closet and adding shelving. I'll try to post up some pictures later.

Perfection is highly overrated!!!
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post #192 of 234 Old 07-15-2012, 09:09 PM
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Hey,

Doing the AV rack inside the wall is that bad for the equipment? I have a bose lifestyle T20, a verizon receiver box, ps3 and a samsung 3d player. If I do a wall AV rack wouldn't it damage these items? Please let me know.

Thanks,

Fais
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post #193 of 234 Old 07-16-2012, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fais317 View Post

Hey,
Doing the AV rack inside the wall is that bad for the equipment? I have a bose lifestyle T20, a verizon receiver box, ps3 and a samsung 3d player. If I do a wall AV rack wouldn't it damage these items? Please let me know.
Thanks,
Fais

The question is more a matter of what is behind the wall, and how the equipment is going to extend and be ventilated. With reasonable consideration, a wall mounted rack is no different than a rack in the room in terms of equipment heat dissipation.
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post #194 of 234 Old 07-16-2012, 08:44 AM
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Well the place where I am planing to put the rack has a closet behind it and its below the stairs leading to the basement.
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post #195 of 234 Old 07-16-2012, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fais317 View Post

Well the place where I am planing to put the rack has a closet behind it and its below the stairs leading to the basement.

That is not a lot of heat generating equipment. You have a couple of options. First, you could simply leave the front open with some ventilation space above each component and an open back. Second, you could enclose the front, but place screens on each shelf and have vents below and above the equipment. Third, you could place dead vents low and high on the closet wall near the equipment and leave the sides of the rack open. I don't think you need fans for this level of equipment.

Use a thermometer in the room and confirm that the closet doesn't overheat in use.
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post #196 of 234 Old 07-16-2012, 01:57 PM
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Thanks for all your help!!
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post #197 of 234 Old 07-17-2012, 09:03 AM
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Made 2 Flex racks to be placed inside a cabinet, instead of shelves. The racks can be turned on their axis for access.
Nothing fancy, but easy access and airflow improvement.

IMG_9733.jpg

IMG_9821.jpg

IMG_9829.jpg

IMG_9046.jpg

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post #198 of 234 Old 07-17-2012, 09:56 AM
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Ahh, the flex rack. That brings back memories. My first rack was a flex rack which I then cannibalized for my shelves. Used a similar methed as YW84U (from page 1). Will probably end up doing something similar again.

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post #199 of 234 Old 09-25-2012, 05:21 AM
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Wow, this is an awesome thread with a ton of great ideas spread over the years. smile.gif

For those of you with racks hidden away in closets/etc, I assume you're running RF remote setups. Where are you mounting your IR blaster(s)?

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post #200 of 234 Old 09-25-2012, 05:45 AM
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Here's a couple pics of my progress as of right now...

2012-08-25045939.jpg

048.jpg

049-1.jpg

082.jpg

086.jpg

Sorry for the horrible PQ. Total cost of the rack was just over $50! Mostly spent money for the brackets. I'm still going to add faceplates either from MA or custom made with roofing flashing AND possibly some kind of tempered glass door. Haven't decided on the door yet because of cooling issues. Also going to add an IR repeater and several more shelves which will have a few more components.
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post #201 of 234 Old 10-07-2012, 02:17 AM
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I'm loving this thread, and I'm very interested in trying to do a rack with the lazy susan approach seen in a few examples here. I'm in the process of converting our "bonus" room that's already finished with 'regular' walls; 2 exterior walls, a bedroom and bathroom opposite the other two. What that means is I have no empty space to recess a cabinet in the wall like I've seen in most of pictures. (I do have the typical few inches between drywall sheets available, but nothing like recessing the entire cabinet and only having the equipment faces visible to the media room)

I've never built any sort of cabinetry before, so I don't know if it's "safe" to have, potentially, a couple hundred pounds hanging off regular wall studs. I would guess it's fine as I'm guessing most kitchen cabinets hold that weight in dishes every day, but I want to ask those with some experience. Should I reinforce by adding additional support lumber that will go from the floor to the bottom of the cabinet and eventually hide behind drywall when I'm finished?

In case it's not clear, my idea is to recess the cabinet into the wall, between the studs. It'd only recess a few inches, but I'd prefer that look to hanging on top of the wall provided it makes reasonable sense to do it. I'm thinking 24" deep, 24" wide, 48" high. I'm excited to get started, but I want to make sure this will work.
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post #202 of 234 Old 10-07-2012, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiptoss View Post

I'm loving this thread, and I'm very interested in trying to do a rack with the lazy susan approach seen in a few examples here. I'm in the process of converting our "bonus" room that's already finished with 'regular' walls; 2 exterior walls, a bedroom and bathroom opposite the other two. What that means is I have no empty space to recess a cabinet in the wall like I've seen in most of pictures. (I do have the typical few inches between drywall sheets available, but nothing like recessing the entire cabinet and only having the equipment faces visible to the media room)
I've never built any sort of cabinetry before, so I don't know if it's "safe" to have, potentially, a couple hundred pounds hanging off regular wall studs. I would guess it's fine as I'm guessing most kitchen cabinets hold that weight in dishes every day, but I want to ask those with some experience. Should I reinforce by adding additional support lumber that will go from the floor to the bottom of the cabinet and eventually hide behind drywall when I'm finished?
In case it's not clear, my idea is to recess the cabinet into the wall, between the studs. It'd only recess a few inches, but I'd prefer that look to hanging on top of the wall provided it makes reasonable sense to do it. I'm thinking 24" deep, 24" wide, 48" high. I'm excited to get started, but I want to make sure this will work.

I think if I had your situation I would build either a closet IN your bonus room space OR build a recessed closet INTO the bedroom through the wall of your bonus room. Basically from the bedrooms point of view you would end up with a closet protruding into that room. Then I would make whatever rack I was going to build on slide out rails like several others have done here with the lazy susan you mentioned.

As far as size... my rack is 20 inches wide and 48 inches tall... PLENTY of space for everything I own and lots left over too.

As far as weight bracing... yes I would build a stand under the entire rack that basically takes the weight off the studs as much as possible. I was lucky that I didn't have too many components in my setup so weight wasn't really an issue. Later on down the road if I start to delve into external amps and so forth I will have to invest in a "real" rack as well... takes money to have both which ALL went towards the down-payment on the new house. lol
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post #203 of 234 Old 10-07-2012, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ten8yp View Post

I think if I had your situation I would build either a closet IN your bonus room space OR build a recessed closet INTO the bedroom through the wall of your bonus room. Basically from the bedrooms point of view you would end up with a closet protruding into that room. Then I would make whatever rack I was going to build on slide out rails like several others have done here with the lazy susan you mentioned.
As far as size... my rack is 20 inches wide and 48 inches tall... PLENTY of space for everything I own and lots left over too.
As far as weight bracing... yes I would build a stand under the entire rack that basically takes the weight off the studs as much as possible. I was lucky that I didn't have too many components in my setup so weight wasn't really an issue. Later on down the road if I start to delve into external amps and so forth I will have to invest in a "real" rack as well... takes money to have both which ALL went towards the down-payment on the new house. lol

Thank you for your input. I have a follow-up question related to cooling. Is it acceptable to top vents with PVC or other simple duct of some sort, and send it directly up to the attic? The crawl space to the attic is conveniently directly above the bonus room.
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post #204 of 234 Old 12-09-2012, 07:49 PM
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Hey Guys!

Using some ideas from folks like PMeyer and others, as well as from commercial pull-out designs I began planning for my rack enclosure. It will be in the HT Room's back left corner and my objective is to be able to somewhat easily check cables and connections because there is no access to the back from another room.

I intend to use these:
1 x Accuride 9301 22" Slide 500 lb
1 x ShopFox D3067 22" Slide 100 lb
1 x VXB 1000 lbs Capacity 12" Lazy Susan Bearing 5/16" Thick
2 x Cooler Master MegaFlow 200mm Black Computer Case Cooling Fans
1 x Coolerguys Programmable Thermal Fan Controller with LED Display

Any ideas, comments or suggestions are welcome. I'm drafting my rack as seen here:






__________

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post #205 of 234 Old 12-17-2012, 08:46 AM
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Krakhen I like your design. Any progress on it?
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post #206 of 234 Old 12-17-2012, 12:25 PM
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Thanks!

Not yet, it still a draft. And will still be for a couple of months... smile.gif

I have already modified it so that the rack rails begin above the lower fan area. Of course, that makes the whole rack higher but also doesn't waste those U's for flexibility.

There will also be ply from bottom to top instead of just up to the fan area.

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post #207 of 234 Old 12-25-2012, 07:19 PM
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I would love to receive a copy of the successfully used plans.
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post #208 of 234 Old 12-26-2012, 03:56 AM
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I would love to receive a copy of the successfully used plans.

Me too if possible.
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post #209 of 234 Old 12-26-2012, 06:03 AM
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I've seen similiar designs where the fans where installed on the back of the rack as well. So that air is moved over the equipment. If the rack is pretty much sealed, there is the push and pull air method. I don't see any holes in your shelves for warm/hot air to rise, are the fans suppose to cool down all of the equipment?..
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post #210 of 234 Old 12-26-2012, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conanb View Post

I would love to receive a copy of the successfully used plans.
Quote:
Originally Posted by willmo View Post

Me too if possible.

Thanks for the interest. I will update in the future and publish the plans on sketchup for you guys.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HT_SoulMan View Post

I've seen similiar designs where the fans where installed on the back of the rack as well. So that air is moved over the equipment. If the rack is pretty much sealed, there is the push and pull air method. I don't see any holes in your shelves for warm/hot air to rise, are the fans suppose to cool down all of the equipment?..

The concept as it is presented right now would have the lower fan pushing air into the rack space and the upper fan pulling air from the rack space to the outside, but proper airflow is a completely valid concern since I'm not convinced this will be enough. The only space available would be a little to the sides and the space left on the back. I'm not planning to close the front, do you think it would be more efficient to use fans on the back(remember there isn't so much room behind the rack).

Since I know heat is an enemy to electronics, here is the current list of equipment going into the rack:

Onkyo 818 Receiver
Emotiva UPA-500 Amp
Behringer NU3000DSP Amp
Monster HTS-3600 MKII Power Center
Sony PS3 Super Slim
Motorola Cable Box
Zotac HTPC or Raspberry Pi (haven't decided which one to use yet)
Global Cache WF2IR iTach Wi-Fi to IR

__________

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