My New Theater - Version 2.0! - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 1361 Old 07-31-2008, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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ouch!
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post #272 of 1361 Old 07-31-2008, 06:51 PM
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I've actually been looking closer at the HTB lens pics in the 2:35 forum and their website. The HTB lens is about 4" tall so not as bad as I initially described but it is 9"long and 6.25"wide.
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post #273 of 1361 Old 08-01-2008, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm hearing conflicting information about if I would have to zoom in and out even with an anamorphic lens. Hopefully someone can clarify. If I do a 2.35 screen and then apply an anamorphic lens to the projector, how would you set it up so that you set the zoom once and then let the lens work everything for different aspect ratios?
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post #274 of 1361 Old 08-01-2008, 01:30 PM
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CIH would not requrie for you to constanly adjust zoom thus Constant Image Height.

Basically you either leave the lens in place all the time if your have a way to vertically stretch the image for 2:35 and horizontally compress the image for 16:9. The stretch eliminates the black bars and the lens corrects the geometry by widening as we said earlier.

For a 16:9 image you do not have black bars to get rid of so no need to vertically stretch but, because the lens is in a place your 16:9 image would be getting stretched resulting in everything looking squished and fat. So hopefully the projector your looking at offers a squeeze mode (it likely does) which will squeeze the image and add bars to the left and right resulting in a restored 16:9 image.

If it doesn't offer a squeeze (or Pan & Scan mode I believe it's called) you would simply move the lens out of the way for 16:9 or 4:3 material. You should not have to Zoom. I played around a little with Vertical compression and that required me to adjust my lens shift when switching between modes but not Horizontal Expansion.
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post #275 of 1361 Old 08-11-2008, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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post #276 of 1361 Old 08-11-2008, 08:17 AM
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post #277 of 1361 Old 08-11-2008, 08:55 AM
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Tried to see if I could get your text off of google. Unfortunately, I was unable to.
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post #278 of 1361 Old 08-11-2008, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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No worries. The nice thing is that any bad ideas I had over the last 10 days are gone as well
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post #279 of 1361 Old 08-11-2008, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mn_hokie View Post

No worries. The nice thing is that any bad ideas I had over the last 10 days are gone as well

Jason, PM is sent...I have all my Instant Notifications from your thread...it may not be all, but it is something to get most of your content back....
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post #280 of 1361 Old 08-11-2008, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezug View Post

Jason, PM is sent...I have all my Instant Notifications from your thread...it may not be all, but it is something to get most of your content back....


I had a couple too jason. see your PM. You can take a look at how I pieced my missing posts back together on my thread too.
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post #281 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 08:34 AM
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Wow. I came here from this thread just to check out your backboxes, and found a serious project. I'm surprised at the length of time it has taken. It was certainly worth it though, as it looks great.

I'm in the process of wiring and upgrading my HT, and deciding (read: fighting) over colors with the wife. I'd do a build thread, but if yours isn't getting any real action, mine (which would be me just cutting holes in my walls) would get zero. Anyway, I'll be using your thread and some others to show her that dark colors can look good.

Man, I'd love to put in a couple of soffets. See how you're increasing the amount of time required in my admittedly simple build already.
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post #282 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuervo View Post

Wow. I came here from this thread just to check out your backboxes, and found a serious project. I'm surprised at the length of time it has taken. It was certainly worth it though, as it looks great.

I'm in the process of wiring and upgrading my HT, and deciding (read: fighting) over colors with the wife. I'd do a build thread, but if yours isn't getting any real action, mine (which would be me just cutting holes in my walls) would get zero. Anyway, I'll be using your thread and some others to show her that dark colors can look good.

Man, I'd love to put in a couple of soffets. See how you're increasing the amount of time required in my admittedly simple build already.

Thanks for checking the thread out. Unfortunately, the amount of time required for the build seems to be directly related to the amount of cash available, so that's why it has taken so long. The nice thing is that I'll have a theater that's paid for when it's all said and done though, so I guess I can't complain.

The action on the thread seems to come and go. Some get it constantly, others never. This one has it's good and bad days, so I'm cool with whatever.

Do you have a build thread up yet? If not, you should start one. It's a great way of tracking the progress.

I'm planning on posting some updated pics after lunch, so stay tuned.....
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post #283 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuervo View Post

I'm surprised at the length of time it has taken.

Must be a newbie.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuervo View Post

See how you're increasing the amount of time required in my admittedly simple build already.

Ya, get used to that.

Looking good mn. I'll be watching for the pics.

Man, that took longer than I thought it would...

Loganed 4/6/08 Logan's Hero 5/1/08

RPh Drew's INDEXED Thread - Logan's Hero... for now...

2010 - The year of the Shed
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post #284 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
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As promised, here are some progress pics.

First, I finally got around to painting my registers black. Now I just need to install them:




The laundry and theater doors have both been stained and hung as well. I just need to get some hardware for the door now and we'll be in good shape.





With the thicker carpet, it takes a little bit of "oomph" to close the door tight. I'm going to leave it that way though, as I feel like it ensures a nice tight seal when the door is closed.
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post #285 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 03:35 PM
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love the door. Wish I would have gone with solid panel doors like that. but I digress I'm a broke ars!

- Josh
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post #286 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 03:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I REALLY wanted to do a 6-panel door, but my wife liked these better. The 3-panel design mimics the look of the sconces though, so I actually prefer it now that it's in. I had a helluva time hanging this door. After 2 attempts in the basement and the half dozen we did upstairs, I've decided that hanging doors is not my thing. I'm planning on paying someone to get the other two in. It doesn't seem to matter how level I get things, the doors still rub a little or don't close as easy as you'd like them to.


For anyone that notices the small piece of baseboard missing to the right of the door frame in the hall, I'm aware of it I'm planning on putting that piece in when I finish trimming out the equipment and mechanical rooms.
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post #287 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 06:46 PM
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Dude... go the 2.35 route. You'll love it. I've got a Panamorph U85 and Carada 120" screen and after having it for a couple years now, I'd never have anything else.
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post #288 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 07:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrodshook View Post

Dude... go the 2.35 route. You'll love it. I've got a Panamorph U85 and Carada 120" screen and after having it for a couple years now, I'd never have anything else.

Thanks. I'm definately going 2.35. I had actually posted the below information before the crash, but I guess it was too recent to be restored. Here ya go:

I got the kids to help me mask off the potential screen wall tonight. Let me know what you think. Dimensions were from Carada's website for their 125" (136" diagonal) 2.35 setup. The border is 2" thick, which just happened to be the thickness of the tape I used.

First - A shot from the back row of seats:




Next - A shot from the front row of seats:



Finally, I had my 7 year old stand on the stage to give a height reference. He's about 50-51" tall.



The tape below the screen shows the front elevation of the cabinet for housing the speakers. The 4 squares on the end are each 24" wide, which should allow for plenty of room for the main channels (subs on the end). This leaves me with a nice size opening for the center channel.

After sitting in the back row and looking at this, I'm definately hooked on 2.35 now. Also, butting it right up under the soffit doesn't seem too high at all, and the bottom of the screen will no longer be blocked by any heads in the front row.

Thoughts?
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post #289 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrodshook View Post

Dude... go the 2.35 route. You'll love it. I've got a Panamorph U85 and Carada 120" screen and after having it for a couple years now, I'd never have anything else.

What projector are you running with the panamorph? Do you have the sled in place as well? I'm actually thnking about a 136" 2.35 carada right now
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post #290 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 07:32 PM
 
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Originally Posted by jerrodshook View Post

Dude... go the 2.35 route. You'll love it. I've got a Panamorph U85 and Carada 120" screen and after having it for a couple years now, I'd never have anything else.


What's the advantage of 2:35 with the U85 lens??

Scott
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post #291 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 07:42 PM - Thread Starter
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post #292 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 08:41 PM
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Jason,

What model recessed lights are those ones in your soffits? They look smaller...like 2-3"

Eric
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post #293 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 08:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Good eye. They're 3" Halo trims. I'll see if I can locate the models
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post #294 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mn_hokie View Post

Good eye. They're 3" Halo trims. I'll see if I can locate the models

THANKS!!! I love the distinct cast effect they have on the walls!

Eric
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post #295 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 08:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Found them.

Over the poster area on the side wall and screen area up front - 3" aperature trim

http://www.haloltg.com/common/brands...Trims&id=14505

Over the rear seating area, I used 3" gimbles

http://www.haloltg.com/common/brands...Trims&id=14512

The trims work with any of their 3" cans.
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post #296 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 08:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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THANKS!!! I love the distinct cast effect they have on the walls!

Eric

The aperature trims are pretty cool. You can adjust the aperature slide inside the trim similar to how an aperature works on a camera. By moving it around, you can adjust how the light is cast.
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post #297 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 09:03 PM
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Are these the cans you used?

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post #298 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 09:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Those are IC rated cans. I used non-IC, but those will work.
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post #299 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 09:12 PM
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Those are IC rated cans. I used non-IC, but those will work.

Like this?
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post #300 of 1361 Old 08-13-2008, 09:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Yea, like those. I just made sure to keep the insulation a distance from the housings. If you decide to go with those trims, let me know. I found a place in Illinois that was a fraction of what it would have cost to get them locally.
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