Mr. Pink's Dog Diner Theater (Tips Welcome) - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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Dedicated Theater Design & Construction > Mr. Pink's Dog Diner Theater (Tips Welcome)
In2Photos's Avatar In2Photos 06:29 AM 02-09-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDLehner View Post

Thanks Mike. I'm not too concerned about being attached to that back wall, but all things being equal I was really hoping to get a 2x10 behind that duct and down to the floor...for support. My GC says he can rip a 2x, but isn't that going to be pretty difficult; to rip a 2x on the 1.5" side...down to like an 1.25"? I guess not on a table saw, which I don't have.

You sound like you know what you're talking about; which would you suggest?

Thanks,
CD

Well there is another option still. Why not use a 1x or take a look at 5/4ths boards (used for decks so they will likely be pressure treated and slightly more expensive, but you won't have to rip it down to size). Either method should be fine as you are relying on the width of the board for support (which is what 10"?), not its thickness (which is 1-1.25"). You may choose to pre-drill this board though so that your screws don't split the wood when you screw down the plywood.

CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 06:48 AM 02-09-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by In2Photos View Post

Well there is another option still. Why not use a 1x or take a look at 5/4ths boards (used for decks so they will likely be pressure treated and slightly more expensive, but you won't have to rip it down to size). Either method should be fine as you are relying on the width of the board for support (which is what 10"?), not its thickness (which is 1-1.25"). You may choose to pre-drill this board though so that your screws don't split the wood when you screw down the plywood.

Thanks Mike; I didn't even know they made 1x10. If it ain't at the Orange or Blue, I ain't familiar with it. But I'll keep it in mind.

Thanks,
CD
In2Photos's Avatar In2Photos 06:52 AM 02-09-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDLehner View Post

Thanks Mike; I didn't even know they made 1x10. If it ain't at the Orange or Blue, I ain't familiar with it. But I'll keep it in mind.

Thanks,
CD

1xs are generally in a different section of the wood area. They are more of a finished grade than 2x. Again, likely more expensive, but won't require a saw to get the size (thickness) you need. So orange and blue should both have all of these suggestions.
dwightp's Avatar dwightp 02:17 PM 02-09-2009
Quote:


I was really hoping to get a 2x10 behind that duct and down to the floor...for support. My GC says he can rip a 2x, but isn't that going to be pretty difficult; to rip a 2x on the 1.5" side...down to like an 1.25"? I guess not on a table saw, which I don't have.

A "standard" tablesaw has a 10" blade. At 90-degrees, most 10" tablesaws can rip a little less than 3.5" deep. If your contractor makes a 3.5" deep cut on one edge of the 2x10, flips it end for end and makes another 3.5" deep cut on the other edge of the 2x10, he'll still be left with 2.5" or so in the middle of the board that his saw can't reach. He might be able to knock that down with a hand-held power planer, like the ones used to trim doors.

If your contractor has a shop, he probably has a planer, which is the tool that should really be used to take a 10" board from 1.5" thick to 1.25" thick. Even a portable planer would do the job in 5 minutes.

BUT ... I doubt that running a 10" x 1.25" board from the decking to the floor would support the decking much better than hanging a piece of L-shaped steel from the wall. With the steel mounted to the wall, the load of the decking is being transferred from the steel into the wall studs. Either way, the load is getting to the house framing, which is what you really want.
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 02:33 PM 02-09-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp View Post

A "standard" tablesaw has a 10" blade. At 90-degrees, most 10" tablesaws can rip a little less than 3.5" deep. If your contractor makes a 3.5" deep cut on one edge of the 2x10, flips it end for end and makes another 3.5" deep cut on the other edge of the 2x10, he'll still be left with 2.5" or so in the middle of the board that his saw can't reach. He might be able to knock that down with a hand-held power planer, like the ones used to trim doors.

If your contractor has a shop, he probably has a planer, which is the tool that should really be used to take a 10" board from 1.5" thick to 1.25" thick. Even a portable planer would do the job in 5 minutes.

BUT ... I doubt that running a 10" x 1.25" board from the decking to the floor would support the decking much better than hanging a piece of L-shaped steel from the wall. With the steel mounted to the wall, the load of the decking is being transferred from the steel into the wall studs. Either way, the load is getting to the house framing, which is what you really want.

Thanks for the info. My GC does have a table saw, but I doubt a planer. He likes to fancy himself a wizard with a circular saw, and does a lot of stuff "free hand"; some to better success than others.

I did look at the 5/4s In2 mentioned; of course, they're more finish type wood, as he also mentioned...expensive, and really I need a 5/4 x 10 x 12', which I didn't see at all. The L-shaped steel bracket is sounding better and easier by the minute. Could anyone possibly post a pic, so I know what the heck I'm looking for?

Thanks,
CD
In2Photos's Avatar In2Photos 02:39 PM 02-09-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDLehner View Post

Could anyone possibly post a pic, so I know what the heck I'm looking for?

Thanks,
CD

Do you have a garage door? Go look at the metal holding it up to the ceiling. You want something like that but thicker. It may not have any holes in it depending on what they have in stock, but you should find something that does. It is usually found in the hardware aisle of your favorite home improvement store. Look for the threaded rod and it should be right there with it.
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 03:23 PM 02-09-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by In2Photos View Post

Do you have a garage door? Go look at the metal holding it up to the ceiling. You want something like that but thicker. It may not have any holes in it depending on what they have in stock, but you should find something that does. It is usually found in the hardware aisle of your favorite home improvement store. Look for the threaded rod and it should be right there with it.

Okey dokey artichokey.

CD
notenoughcash's Avatar notenoughcash 08:44 PM 02-09-2009
Lookin good, been lurking on this thread for a bit. If I has something constructive to add I would but for now keep up the good work!

J
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 08:59 PM 02-09-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by notenoughcash View Post

Lookin good, been lurking on this thread for a bit. If I has something constructive to add I would but for now keep up the good work!

J

Thanks J. GC usually comes on Saturday, so look for new pix on Sundays. Any posts to the thread during the week are probably just me asking dumb-a** questions.

CD
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 12:51 PM 02-15-2009
Not much in the way of progress to report today; at least nothing picture-worthy. GC thought he left mudding tools here; he didn't. So we finished the riser and put another layer of subfloor down. Good work, to be sure, but again...nothing worthy of pictures.

This week I'll be starting my attempt at a built-in cabinet, next weekend GC and I will likely (still wringing my hands a bit...lol) build the "bulkhead" over the screen-area (he called it a bulkhead, so I guess unless someone corrects me that's what I'll call it), and he'll finish mudding and such.

Then it's just paint, carpet (lots of questions there...man, nice carpet is expensive)...hang PJ and screen; start a lifetime of tweaking.

CD
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 01:38 PM 02-21-2009
GC couldn't make it today; had to work. So it was the perfect opportunity for me to start my built-in. I suck at this kind of thing...not because I think it's rocket science, but because it usually escapes me, the easiest way to get from point A to B. I think of it as more of a craft, based on experience and results...and seeing as I have zero in the way of either...well, did I mention that I suck at this kind of thing.

But I thought it through, and came up with a plan, that while it is probably bass-akwards to all things basic about carpentry, seems that even I can't screw up (although I tried my best).

I think my wife put it best, when I asked her to snap this first pic: she said, and I quote, "it's a box". Au contraire I said; it's a box with 2 braces in it, hereunto to be known as The Base. Then with the bottom layer of shelving; you'll have to take my word for it that it is perfectly level (although the subfloor isn't...how did that happen? Damn I'm good ).




Then one with some gear on it, just to check the width of the unit, as well as the depth...to make sure there is enough room for cabling, etc. in the rear (oh who am I kidding...this stuff has been sitting in a spare bedroom for months...it's just nice to have it in the HT for a change). And lastly, this is how things finished up at the end of the day. J/K; that is Tapiozona's screen-wall, which I am paying homage to.

GC is coming tomorrow to build the bulkhead on the screen-wall...and likely criticize my work. When I told him about this part of the project, that I planned to do myself, he only offered to take it off my hands about a dozen times. But I wanted to swing this hammer myself; it may just be a box, but it's my box.

CD
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 02:06 PM 02-21-2009
Just saw a great deal on one of these...so now it's on its way



CD
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 07:02 AM 02-22-2009
OK, not even a full day has passed and I'm already thinking about the error of my ways with this cabinet build. Here is my concern: I had hoped to get carpet laid up to the bottom of that cabinet. I really didn't want to build on top of the carpet, but I'm not really sure how it would lay with just the few inches that are currently in front of the cabinet.



There are a couple of other little things that will likely necessitate my starting over. For v2 I think I'm going to recess the base, so the first shelve extends out over the base, and carpet can roll up under the cabinet some. But I don't really know if that will do the installer much good either; probably at best, I'll be able to leave say 10" for carpet, from the edge of the stairwell to the underneath of the cabinet where it will hit the base. Like a lot of other things, I don't know much about carpet laying; doesn't the installer usually use a rail with spikes to secure the carpet at the ends? If under this cabinet is a portion of the end on this side of the room, how will he be able to secure the carpet with only say 10" to work with, and under the cabinet to boot?

Thinking out loud a bit, I have an idea to just build the "base" all the way across that portion of the room, and around the side shadowboxing too; the base is currently made out of 2x4s, so it's 3.5" tall...so kind of like a 3.5" "stage", flush to the stairwell.



I actually like the idea, except for one issue: the sub is going to be going to the left of the equipment shelving, like this; that nook there was to be carpeted floor. Placing the sub on carpeted floor is one thing, but now if I put it in a nook like that, and that nook is actually raised up on this 3.5" stage, don't I have all kinds of acustical issues to concern myself with?



As always, I welcome any feedback or suggestions.

CD
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 10:18 AM 02-22-2009

kmchenry's Avatar kmchenry 07:56 PM 02-23-2009
This looks like it's really progressing. I have popped in and out from time to time to see how things were going.

Have you thought about shoe moulding around the base of the platform to cover that edge of the carpet and then an outside corner moulding where it meets the stair.

Are you having someone do the carpet for you? If so, they can probably handle those types of situations.

There is just something about attics that you have to love. This is going to be great when your finished.
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 08:20 PM 02-23-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmchenry View Post

This looks like it's really progressing. I have popped in and out from time to time to see how things were going.

Have you thought about shoe moulding around the base of the platform to cover that edge of the carpet and then an outside corner moulding where it meets the stair.

Are you having someone do the carpet for you? If so, they can probably handle those types of situations.

There is just something about attics that you have to love. This is going to be great when your finished.

Thanks Karl for the feedback. My GC has mentioned something about moulding, but I'm imagination challenged when it comes to this stuff; if I can't see it, I can't see it.

I am having someone to do the carpet, so hopefully you're right and he'll have some ideas. It's really just about "done"; paint, carpet, gear...and then the tweaking.

CD
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 05:05 PM 02-28-2009
Can you believe I think I've screwed up this stoopid built-in for a second time! This one wasn't exactly my fault; I went in knowing I wanted to use 16" shelving, and I measured all the big pieces of equipment, like both the 2-channel and 5-channel amps, for depth. But this DTC-9.8 is a beast; as you can see, it's about 17" deep, on its own, and I need to allow some space for the cabling in the rear.



They make a 20" board, and I guess that's the depth I'll go with from the wall; so I'm planning to use the existing 16" shelf for the bottom (base) and middle...and pull the cabinet say 4" from the wall, to accomodate the 20" depth...and use a 20" board for the top. I'll span the 4" from the rest of the "skeleton" to the wall, by attaching like a 2x4 header to the screen-wall.



I'm a dope at this kind of stuff (obviously); does this seem sound?

CD
kmchenry's Avatar kmchenry 07:58 PM 02-28-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDLehner View Post

Can you believe I think I've screwed up this stoopid built-in for a second time! This one wasn't exactly my fault; I went in knowing I wanted to use 16" shelving, and I measured all the big pieces of equipment, like both the 2-channel and 5-channel amps, for depth. But this DTC-9.8 is a beast; as you can see, it's about 17" deep, on its own, and I need to allow some space for the cabling in the rear.



They make a 20" board, and I guess that's the depth I'll go with from the wall; so I'm planning to use the existing 16" shelf for the bottom (base) and middle...and pull the cabinet say 4" from the wall, to accomodate the 20" depth...and use a 20" board for the top. I'll span the 4" from the rest of the "skeleton" to the wall, by attaching like a 2x4 header to the screen-wall.



I'm a dope at this kind of stuff (obviously); does this seem sound?

CD

Hey CD,

What's the spacing between the back of your Integra and back wall? Your probably OK.....

I have the DHC-9.9 which is 17in. Deep from the volume knob to the back panel. It's in a rack with 4" from the back panel to the wall and no problems with cable bends. The only cable which needs a larger bend radius is my main HDMI out - a Parts-Express Dayton Audio cable. I could even go 3" if needed.

Your sub is going to be in an alcove? It seems to me that may cause resonance in the wood sides and top. Have you done that before?

OK, I think I was misinterpreting your picture. It looked like your built-in was going to enclose your sub. My bad
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 09:02 PM 02-28-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmchenry View Post

Hey CD,

What's the spacing between the back of your Integra and back wall? Your probably OK.....

I have the DHC-9.9 which is 17in. Deep from the volume knob to the back panel. It's in a rack with 4" from the back panel to the wall and no problems with cable bends. The only cable which needs a larger bend radius is my main HDMI out - a Parts-Express Dayton Audio cable. I could even go 3" if needed.

That's the thing Karl; originally I wanted the built-in shelving to be flush up against the screen-wall. But 16" obviously isn't going to cut it. So now I'm thinking of keeping the "equipment shelves" (the bottom and middle ones) at 16", but pulling the "skeleton" of the structure out 4" from the wall. Then using a 20" shelf for the top. Yes, I think that'll give me enough room for cabling around the back (my HDMI out will actually go through that screen-wall, and up into the ceiling to the PJ...so no big bend there), but my concern was actually about how to secure that top shelf.

Since it'll be secured to the "skeleton" of the structure, and that'll now be 4" out from the screen-wall, there'll be nothing to secure it to at the screen-wall side; that's why I asked about like a 2x4 header attached to the screen-wall. If you couldn't tell, I don't know jack about this kind of stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmchenry View Post

Your sub is going to be in an alcove? It seems to me that may cause resonance in the wood sides and top. Have you done that before?

OK, I think I was misinterpreting your picture. It looked like your built-in was going to enclose your sub. My bad

No, you got it right; my plan is for the sub to go in that alcove. No, I haven't done it before, and I was (and now am again) a little worried about the placement. I thought it should be OK for a couple of reasons: one, there's going to be a decent amount of room around it. That alcove will be about 24" wide, and the top-shelf above it ~23" high; and I don't plan to have any wood underneath...I'll run carpet into that alcove. The sub is a JL Audio F112; it's 15" wide (so I'll have ~5" on either side), and 18.5" high (so ~5" above). It's ~18" deep, but that's the thing...only the a**-end of the sub will sit back in that alcove; the front of the cabinet and the driver will be in the open. And two, the second reason...the F112 is a sealed unit; in fact, their marketing says they are particularly well suited to built-in designs for HT.

So, as you can see, I've given it some thought, and I'm hoping I'm OK, but I'm no expert; I welcome any additional thoughts, pro or con.

CD
carboranadum's Avatar carboranadum 07:28 AM 03-01-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDLehner View Post

Just saw a great deal on one of these...so now it's on its way



CD

Where did you get it?

CJ
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 08:38 AM 03-01-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

where did you get it?

Cj

You have a PM CJ.

CD
kmchenry's Avatar kmchenry 10:20 AM 03-01-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

Where did you get it?

CJ

Quote:
Originally Posted by CDLehner View Post

You have a PM CJ.

CD


If you wouldn't mind letting me know as well

I frequent the Audioholics site and their store has been pushing the H15 Silver version for 60% off!
HTanderson's Avatar HTanderson 08:44 PM 03-01-2009
Great looking build.... BTW, share the love on the great APC deal.

Take care,
Big Worms's Avatar Big Worms 09:05 PM 03-01-2009
PM the deal on the APC unit if you don't mind.
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 09:10 PM 03-01-2009
OMG

CD
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 11:06 AM 03-08-2009
GC did "blocking" on the screen-wall, so just one more coat of mud 'til it's "done". And we...yes, we...worked on the built-in. I was determined to try this myself, because it seemed simple enough and a good opportunity to learn some basic woodworking. But after 2 somewhat failed attempts to really get rolling, I decided to take advantage of my GC's ability to make straight cuts and enlisted his help. Good decision.

It was simple enough, in that it is certainly a straight-forward design, and won't win any awards, but never underestimate the difference amatuer execution makes; I could have muddled through, but never gotten the finish the two of us were able to accomplish. Like I said, no great shakes, but here it is; front and back...now it just needs to be painted (just ), placed in the screen-wall cavity (when it's done), and topped with a shelf to span the whole front of the screen wall.



CD
kmchenry's Avatar kmchenry 08:31 PM 03-09-2009
Hey CD,

Looks like you have the shelf figured out and well on its way. Does your GC use a Circular saw or does he have a portable table saw? Will you keep your current HT system in place or is this whats moving into the attic? Will you be using any treatments? How about seating?
CDLehner's Avatar CDLehner 09:16 PM 03-09-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmchenry View Post

Hey CD,

Looks like you have the shelf figured out and well on its way. Does your GC use a Circular saw or does he have a portable table saw? Will you keep your current HT system in place or is this whats moving into the attic? Will you be using any treatments? How about seating?

Yeah Karl; what we've decided to do is 16" shelving, with the "skeleton" 4" out from the screen-wall...and a 20" top-shelf to pull everything back together. That'll give the deepest equipment, which is definitely the Integra Pre/Pro, 4" to breath and allow for cables, etc. I have a Miter Saw, and what my GC can't do with that (shallow cuts), he does with a Circular saw. I'll give him this; he can cut a damn straight line.

OMG, please don't confuse this old pic as my "current" HT...lol. This was from when I first got the PJ; I quickly put together what is now the screen-wall, bought a $10 piece of Thrifty White Hardboard from HD, and started playing Home Theater. Talk about sinking my build; bearable Spring, turned to unbearably hot Summer...turned to Fall, turned to Winter. When I realized it was now too cold to work on the room, and I hadn't done...oh, the little things like insulation, drywall, HVAC, etc. The missus and I retreated to an unused bedroom, where I settled for FCR and an 80" painted screen for a while, but then even that was keeping me from getting the room finished. So I packed all the gear away, and right now all movie-watching is done on the very pedestrian, and un-HT like Kuro in the Family Room.



I have decided to do some treatment to the room; for the most part I am documenting that part of the process in this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1125238 (as always, much props to BIG). And lastly, for seating, we currently have 2 Berklines from HT v.a1 (the townhouse we moved out of just as I was about to finish the room). We'll start nice and cozy like that, and then probably look to add 3 more recliners for the rear row.

I've put my hands on a source for Lin, so that should be arriving this week. And my GC and I will either start getting the furring strips attached, and Lin up this coming weekend, or I might hold off until I take some vacation time I need to use or lose, starting April 1. Got carpet picked out (Shaw Back Stage), so I hope things will start coming together quickly for a premier sometime in April. That is if Monoprice ever gets speaker cable back in stock...lol

CD
Cosmic023's Avatar Cosmic023 06:36 AM 03-10-2009
Nice progress so far, i love attic rooms too. As i have my HT in the attic too!!

Look forward to the progress pics.

Cheers
Lee
queendvd2's Avatar queendvd2 06:48 AM 03-10-2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDLehner View Post

That is if Monoprice ever gets speaker cable back in stock...lol

CD

Yes, they seem to be out of stock on quite a few items of late . I had to wait nearly two weeks for an item.
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