3D mode on my Mitsubishi DLP's - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by walford View Post

Checkerboard format is a 1/2 R format since it is 1920sx1080 @ 60fps
And then when displayed on a RP DLP its content is displayed at 960x1080 per eye so another 1/2 of the resolution is lost.
A full 3D display can display the 3D BR output at 1920x1080 per eye since it accepts and display the full double frame packed frame (1980x2205) 3D content.
If the xx738 and xx838 2010 DLPs do receive the software update to be able to asccept the this format then will improve the resoluiton of these models.


I have read several technical article that the above summation indicate that the checkerboard 3D delivery is better than side by side or top over bottom. As I indicated in another reply I viewed a 2010 Mitsu 82738 and preferred the picture over the Samsung LCD 3D. The salesperson, for what its worth, agreed.

If the resolution is truly only 1/4 of the the LCD and PLasma 3D sets it would be easily detected and I doubt that anyone would buy a DLP 3D set. In my case, the eyes don't lie the DLP 3D is better not inferior to the LCD 3D!
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Old 09-23-2010, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by EAGLE-1 View Post

i already order the new glasses,i really want to see if they make any difrence

EAGLE-1 is not convinced...
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Justin-Dawson View Post

EAGLE-1 is not convinced...

no men is not that,is just that i see the image to bad that well im a little worried about that just a simple glasses can improve that,but of course that im trust in all you guys!! your are professionals!!
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:56 PM
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It's "just the glasses"; the tv has a light, called DLP Link, that crushes the blacks and washes the image in a green light. This will be obvious without the glasses on. The Optoma and Viewsonic glasses can block this light; they use this light to turn the shutters on and off, and are both off during the DLP Link duration. The Mitsubishi glasses use the emitter instead of the DLP Link, it can't sense when the light is on and so can not close the shutters, so the image looks worse than on the Optomas and Viewsonics. You should read this whole thread and it will become easier to understand.

This thread is titled " What's wrong with 3D mode on my Mitsubishi DLP?"
The answer: DLP Link
The solution: get Optoma or Viewsonic glasses.
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Old 09-23-2010, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Milmanias View Post

This thread is titled " What's wrong with 3D mode on my Mitsubishi DLP?"
The answer: DLP Link
The solution: get Optoma or Viewsonic glasses.

Very well said!
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Old 09-23-2010, 02:14 PM
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I've been happy with my XpanD x102's except the stupid battery prices.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by milmanias View Post

it's "just the glasses"; the tv has a light, called dlp link, that crushes the blacks and washes the image in a green light. This will be obvious without the glasses on. The optoma and viewsonic glasses can block this light; they use this light to turn the shutters on and off, and are both off during the dlp link duration. The mitsubishi glasses use the emitter instead of the dlp link, it can't sense when the light is on and so can not close the shutters, so the image looks worse than on the optomas and viewsonics. You should read this whole thread and it will become easier to understand.

This thread is titled " what's wrong with 3d mode on my mitsubishi dlp?"
the answer: Dlp link
the solution: Get optoma or viewsonic glasses.

+1!
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JackBarry View Post

I also read a technical article that I cannot remember where that dismissed the theory that the Mitsu resolution is 1/2 that of the LCD and Plasma 3D sets in 3D mode.

Please post a link if you can find it. There are technical articles written by TI engineers that explain the DMD resolution which is 1/2 of 1920x1080, with diamond pixels instead of square pixels. Via wobulation, a 2D image is displayed as 1920x1080p. However, wobulation to produce 1920x1080p relies on both eyes seeing both wobulated sub-frames. 3D on this DMD uses left eye frame as one sub-frame and right eye frame as the other sub-frame. So, each eye only sees half of 1920x1080p. If I get close enough to my set while watching 3D, I can see the relatively large diamond pixels of the DMD.

The only way I can see someone arguing that it is not 1/2 res in 3D is to say that at a distance, the brain meshes the left eye and right eye images in some way to eliminate the 1/2 resolution of each eye. However, up close at least (let's say within a foot of the screen), that is certainly not my experience as I can see the diamond pixels of the DMD because my brain is apparently averaging the two sub-frames and "seeing" DMD pixels centered between where they actually are in the left eye an right eye sub-frames, which cannot be seen with 2D content. Closing either eye when up very close during 3D content also reveals the large DMD diamond pixels of a sub-frame. Try it. The eyes don't lie on that either.
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Old 09-24-2010, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milmanias View Post

It's "just the glasses"; the tv has a light, called DLP Link, that crushes the blacks and washes the image in a green light. This will be obvious without the glasses on. The Optoma and Viewsonic glasses can block this light; they use this light to turn the shutters on and off, and are both off during the DLP Link duration. The Mitsubishi glasses use the emitter instead of the DLP Link, it can't sense when the light is on and so can not close the shutters, so the image looks worse than on the Optomas and Viewsonics. You should read this whole thread and it will become easier to understand.

This thread is titled " What's wrong with 3D mode on my Mitsubishi DLP?"
The answer: DLP Link
The solution: get Optoma or Viewsonic glasses.

very thanks my friend for explain!! well i cant wait for get the new glasses next week!! one question,if i want to use the mitsubishi glasses with the emitter,i will get the better image with my new viewsonic no matter that the emitter still in use?? that because well i want to keep the ugly glasses but i want to use the new ones just for me!1
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Old 09-24-2010, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by EAGLE-1 View Post

very thanks my friend for explain!! well i cant wait for get the new glasses next week!! one question,if i want to use the mitsubishi glasses with the emitter,i will get the better image with my new viewsonic no matter that the emitter still in use?? that because well i want to keep the ugly glasses but i want to use the new ones just for me!1

Yes, the emitter does not affect the DLP link light (in the 2009 and earlier models), so you can use both the Viewsonic and Mitsubishi glasses at the same time. You will need to read the instructions carefully on the Viewsonic and make sure they're operating in the correct mode.
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Milmanias View Post

Yes, the emitter does not affect the DLP link light (in the 2009 and earlier models), so you can use both the Viewsonic and Mitsubishi glasses at the same time. You will need to read the instructions carefully on the Viewsonic and make sure they're operating in the correct mode.

OK GOOD,well i let you know next week!! thanks again
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by EAGLE-1 View Post

OK GOOD,well i let you know next week!! thanks again

Trust me. You will be happy with the Viewsonics. I bought a pair of Viewsonics and compared them to the Mitsubishi IR glasses side by side. There is a very big difference. I since sold my Mitsubishi glasses on Ebay for more than I paid for the Viewsonics. I kept the emitter so I can buy some Samsung child IR glasses for my kids because the Viewsonics are to big for their head. The Viewsonics cost more than the Optimas but it's worth it to have the flexibility to use IR glasses if you need to.
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by bhalbower View Post

Trust me. You will be happy with the Viewsonics. I bought a pair of Viewsonics and compared them to the Mitsubishi IR glasses side by side. There is a very big difference. I since sold my Mitsubishi glasses on Ebay for more than I paid for the Viewsonics. I kept the emitter so I can buy some Samsung child IR glasses for my kids because the Viewsonics are to big for their head. The Viewsonics cost more than the Optimas but it's worth it to have the flexibility to use IR glasses if you need to.

you say that you compared both glasses side by side,? but well in ps3 games and blu ray 3d i dont see that need put the 3d adapter in side by side mode,so gont get it, do i need switch the adapter in side by side mode then??
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by EAGLE-1 View Post

you say that you compared both glasses side by side,? but well in ps3 games and blu ray 3d i dont see that need put the 3d adapter in side by side mode,so gont get it, do i need switch the adapter in side by side mode then??

When he said side by side he meant he compared the glasses one after another. He was not referring to a setting on the adapter. Take a break from posting until you get your Viewsonics and read this entire thread if you want to know more, your questions have already been answered.
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bcterp View Post

When he said side by side he meant he compared the glasses one after another. He was not referring to a setting on the adapter. Take a break from posting until you get your Viewsonics and read this entire thread if you want to know more, your questions have already been answered.

ohh sorry i get it,well thanks and i let you know guys next week,thanks for all the help!!
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Old 09-25-2010, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by TRU3D007 View Post

Proof through experience, yes.

Our company site is at www.tru3d.com

We have shipped over 600 XpanD glasses plus many other types of 3D glasses. We have had many customers that thought something was wrong with one of their other devices or glasses while experiencing a green-ish tint on their picture. Additionally, we have a local service center that performs HDTV repair here in St. Pete that technically acknowledges and resolves the issue with lamp replacements.

Without in-person testing, it is impossible to say for sure, but I would put a 90% probability that a simple bulb replacement will resolve the issue.

I do not work for sears, lol, simply have a few customers that have preventative maintenance plans on their DLPs and really appreciate their annual checkups that keep their TVs running up to par. Not knowing where you purchased your HDTV, the sears mention was only a suggestion.

Generally speaking, lamp replacements are about $125 for the bulb and $100-$240 for the labor depending upon if they come on site to do it. If you are tech savvy, you could do it yourself and service guides can be easily sought after. It may be a good suggestion to just take digital pictures at each dis-assembly step so that you know you to re-assemble your TV!

Can anyone else help validate this assessment for us?

I have the WD65833 and saw your earlier posts about the idea of replacing the bulb to solve the green-ish tint issue when in 3D mode. I replaced my bulb to see if it made any difference. In my case, replacing the bulb has absolutely NO effect on that issue. The bulb did restore the 2D picture back to the original brightness the set had, so it was not money wasted. I would consider it money wasted if the sole purpose was to correct the green-ish tint in 3D mode.

Mits replaced the main board in my set. It made no difference either.

The only thing to help offset the green tint issue on my set was buying Viewsonic 3D glasses like so many others have posted. Even with them, the issue remains but, the Veiwsonics makes 3D somewhat watchable.

The only true fix I have found is to replace the Mits with a Samsung 3D LED set and move on. That way, I can at least use the Mits glasses with Samsung and not waste the money I spent on the Mits 3D adapter kit. We now watch all of our serious 3D viewing on the Samsung and use the Mits elsewhere in the house.
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Old 09-25-2010, 06:30 AM
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The weird thing about all of this is that when a 2010 Mitsubishi is in 3D mode with DLP-link enabled in the menu this problem does not occur like with a 2009 or earlier model.

I don't get how Mitsubishi can blame DLP-Link for this problem when a 2010 with DLP-Link enabled looks normal.

This just doesn't add up.
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Old 09-25-2010, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by twatkins521 View Post

I have the WD65833 and saw your earlier posts about the idea of replacing the bulb to solve the green-ish tint issue when in 3D mode. I replaced my bulb to see if it made any difference. In my case, replacing the bulb has absolutely NO effect on that issue. The bulb did restore the 2D picture back to the original brightness the set had, so it was not money wasted. I would consider it money wasted if the sole purpose was to correct the green-ish tint in 3D mode.

Mits replaced the main board in my set. It made no difference either.

The only thing to help offset the green tint issue on my set was buying Viewsonic 3D glasses like so many others have posted. Even with them, the issue remains but, the Veiwsonics makes 3D somewhat watchable.

The only true fix I have found is to replace the Mits with a Samsung 3D LED set and move on. That way, I can at least use the Mits glasses with Samsung and not waste the money I spent on the Mits 3D adapter kit. We now watch all of our serious 3D viewing on the Samsung and use the Mits elsewhere in the house.

This is weird--I get the greenish tint too; but when I compared the actual colors on my 65737 to the panny at BB on the same content, mine was, if anything, better. All those others who reported direct comparisons, had the same conclusion. Is the 33 one or two model years before the 37?
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Old 09-25-2010, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by pmalter0 View Post

This is weird--I get the greenish tint too; but when I compared the actual colors on my 65737 to the panny at BB on the same content, mine was, if anything, better. All those others who reported direct comparisons, had the same conclusion. Is the 33 one or two model years before the 37?

In general this tint is not really a problem for colors other than black. The mitsubishi glasses would probably be fine for watching a bright/colorful animated flick in 3D. I did not think this was too much of a problem until I got a pair of Optoma DLP-Link glasses. Pick up a pair (Optoma or Viewsonic) from a retailer with a return policy and check out what it does to the black levels and their tint. The difference is unmistakable.
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Old 09-25-2010, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by bcterp View Post

In general this tint is not really a problem for colors other than black. The mitsubishi glasses would probably be fine for watching a bright/colorful animated flick in 3D. I did not think this was too much of a problem until I got a pair of Optoma DLP-Link glasses. Pick up a pair (Optoma or Viewsonic) from a retailer with a return policy and check out what it does to the black levels and their tint. The difference is unmistakable.

On what year Mits?
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Old 09-25-2010, 08:24 AM
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on what year mits?

2009 (wd-73837)
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Old 09-25-2010, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by bcterp View Post

2009 (wd-73837)

Thanks

OK, Guys/Gals, I'm Now going to be on the "other side of the fence", as I'm replacing my WD-73C9 (2.5 mos old) with a WD-82738 (got a superb price) & Bigger is Better. I now have to look back at everything from the other perpective & need to go back through the 12 pages and read again.

Anyone have any update on when we will get the 3D Firmware upgrade DL?

Was the consensus that the Mits Glasses are just as good PQ wise as the Optomas/Viewsonics/X102's?

Thank you!
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Old 09-25-2010, 12:57 PM
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Let's just hope that Mits does not reneg on their previous comitment to release the update for thier xx738 and xx838 models to receive all HDMI 1.4a 3D formats this Summer or fall. If they do reneg then IMHO they will not longer be able to compete with their RP DLP models in the RP 3D DLP TV market next year.
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Old 09-25-2010, 07:20 PM
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OK, Guys/Gals, I'm Now going to be on the "other side of the fence", as I'm replacing my WD-73C9 (2.5 mos old) with a WD-82738 (got a superb price)

Care to share your negotiated price?
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Old 09-25-2010, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Tuned1 View Post

Care to share your negotiated price?

$2,210.77 + a Free Mits wireless adapter. It was a good price, but I passed on a much better Deal on March 15th on a BN WD82737 for $1,899.15 Shipped (You couldn't get any 82" back then for less than around $3,500)

I put that Deal on Slick Deals then and a bunch of SDers got them & a bunch got cancelled. I didn't know how good these Monsters were at the time & I wasn't sure how I was going to get rid of my New 46" Sammy LCD. That deal turned out to be a price mistake.
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by bcterp View Post

The weird thing about all of this is that when a 2010 Mitsubishi is in 3D mode with DLP-link enabled in the menu this problem does not occur like with a 2009 or earlier model.

I don't get how Mitsubishi can blame DLP-Link for this problem when a 2010 with DLP-Link enabled looks normal.

This just doesn't add up.

Mitsubishi hasn't blamed DLP-Link but everyone on here has stated that this is the problem.

I was in Fry's and put a 2010 model in DLP-Link mode and I thought it looked washed out.
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaronp88 View Post

Mitsubishi hasn't blamed DLP-Link but everyone on here has stated that this is the problem.

I was in Fry's and put a 2010 model in DLP-Link mode and I thought it looked washed out.

Mits has blamed this on dlp link. Diamondpilot and myself both posted the emails that MDEA sent us blaming dlp link.
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Old 09-26-2010, 04:31 PM
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I own a Mitsu 73738 and it has a menu option to choose IR Remitter or DLP Link under its Glasses Control. This is a new option on the 2010 models ciated above and I think an important one. Evaluating the type of glasses needs to be broken down between the new xx738 and xx838 sets and older models because you don't have the interference of running the IR Remitter and DLP Link signals at the same time.
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Old 09-26-2010, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaronp88 View Post

Mitsubishi hasn't blamed DLP-Link but everyone on here has stated that this is the problem.

I was in Fry's and put a 2010 model in DLP-Link mode and I thought it looked washed out.

See my post above, what glasses mode did he have choosen?
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:55 AM
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What I find funny is when I spoke with Mitsubishi yesterday about firmware request, after the idiot on the phone put me on hold for 10 minutes to find out what I was talking about she said it is impossible to create firmware to be able to turn DLPLink on and off on the older models..

That is funny to me, because we turn DLPLink on and off ever single time we choose 3D mode on our television. Anyone who knows anything about firmware and how powerful it is, knows that this can definitly be fixed.. Everyone needs to keep calling Mitsubishi and complaining in order for us to have any prayer that this will be fixed.

I mean perfect example is the PS3. Something I purchased before 3D was even talked about coming to the home. And through a simple 2 minute Firmware upgrade last week, I know have a 3D blue ray player.

I'm currently waiting for Viewsonics that should arrive today.
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