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3D Displays > 3D mode on my Mitsubishi DLP's
dork4638's Avatar dork4638 01:11 PM 12-14-2010
Hey guys, need some help from you experts. Apologies for the long post but I want to get all the info out there.

I've googled this issue and tried searching to the forums but nothing has worked so far. My setup is as follows:

Phat PS3 80gb (updated to new FW), Xbox 360, HTPC with Radeon 5670, Onkyo 605, stand-alone BR player, Mitsubishi 65638, and the 3DC-1000 kit they were giving away. Because my Onkyo only has two HDMI Ins and 1 out, I bought a switch from monoprice years ago (pretty sure it's only 1.3a), and after port 4 refused to work, I bought a second switch from amazon (it's the generic 5 port switch). BTW, my cable box is a Motorola DCH-3200.

I have the HDMI cables running into the switches, which then go into the two HDMI inputs, and outputting it to the 3d adapter, and then it goes to the TV. All of the cables are new and can do HighSpeed HDMI.

Here's the problem: I can't watch TV (just regular 2d) with the cable running to the adapter. The image flickers and there is no sound. When I run it directly to the TV it worked just fine. According to Time Warner, the cable box is able to receive 3d content, so it shouldn't be some communication issue between the adapter and box.

When I switch over to the PS3, it can't detect 3d. Once I bypassed the switch and receiver, the PS3 recognized the display and I was able to use the 3d function. Then I plugged everything back the way it was, hoping the 3d will "stick" on the PS3, which it did, except it won't send a picture to the screen.

What makes everything weird is that the 3d in the xbox 360 worked like a charm. I put in COD Black Ops and turned on 3d with no problems. Also, I was also to play 3D BR discs in my HTPC without a problem. The two items were attached to the newer Amazon switch.

My initial thought was the monoprice switch was the problem. It wasn't, I attached the PS3 to the newer switch and still no dice. I thought the Onkyo might have been the problem except the 360 and HTPC configuration worked just fine. I read somewhere that the Mitsubishi adapter and Onkyo receivers have issues with EDID recognition, but it obviously worked on the 360 and HTPC, so I'm confused as to what my issues are.

I was thinking of buying a HDMI splitter so I can send one signal directly to the adapter and the other to the switch, has anyone had success with that? Could it be the specific ports on the switch itself? I remember people saying that their PS3 didn't like certain ports for some reason. I guess I'll test that out when I get home but the whole thing's getting pretty aggravating.

Thanks for the help guys.

RebelCapitalist's Avatar RebelCapitalist 01:41 AM 12-21-2010
Hey guys,

I'm a little confused. Was looking at Panny 3D, but my budget is stretched on just a 50" TV and I've ready that viewing in 3D actually shrinks the TV size visually.

So I'm looking at a Mits WD-65738 on Amazon because it's in my budget range. The page says 3D. Now, do I need an adapter thing or just the TV and glasses?

My main use is mostly gaming and some blu-ray (no sat/cable at all).
kjroddy's Avatar kjroddy 02:16 AM 12-21-2010
With the latest firmware upgrade your 65738 will handle any 3D format you can throw at it: all you need to buy is glasses (and an emitter if you buy IR glasses as opposed to DLP-Link)
RebelCapitalist's Avatar RebelCapitalist 12:34 PM 12-21-2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjroddy View Post

With the latest firmware upgrade your 65738 will handle any 3D format you can throw at it: all you need to buy is glasses (and an emitter if you buy IR glasses as opposed to DLP-Link)

Ok thanks. Was thinking of getting the Panny GT25, but now leaning towards MITS 65738 because of size, cost and not getting screwed too much as 3DTVs fast evolve over the next 1-2 years.
eyerox's Avatar eyerox 10:08 AM 12-22-2010
I own the Mitsubishi 60c10. I have it connected to the 3dc-1000 (via starter kit) and I use the Mitsubishi ir emitter with Mitsubishi glasses. My only source is an updated firmware PS3. The adapter is set to 3d-normal. The television has DLP - off, 3d mode on, and standard polarity.

I have tried:

Games - Motorstorm Pacific Rift 3d, Wipeout 3d
Video - Sony "3d Sizzle", Disney "Timon and Pumba 3d Starter Disk"

When viewing any of this media I notice the "window" and "depth" aspect of the 3d. It's almost as if I could reach into the television and I can see different parallax levels from the content. I do have a problem though. At certain point it's apparent that things are supposed to come OUT of the television. The content that is supposed to come OUT of the television (appear closer to me than the screen) looks blurry or "out of phase" or is difficult to focus my eyes on.

I have viewed 3d content on Sonys and Panasonics at big box retailers, and the "coming out of the TV" effect is pronounced.

On My Mitsubishi it's almost non existent. A specific example is the MLB baseball section on the Sony 3d sizzle video. It shows a runner sliding into second while the second baseman throws to first. The baseball is in the middle of the screen but it is blurry and unfocused. The rest of the screen has depth, but the baseball appears to be "out of phaze".

Another example is Motorstorm and the Motorstorm section of the sizzle video. When going through trees or when tires are flung from cars (GREAT GAME!), as I approach these objects I get the depth effect, but once it reaches the Z-axis of my screen it becomes unfocused.

Could these problems be because of limitations in the checkerboard format, which the Sony and Panasonic didn't need an adapter to produce? (Sony content was viewed with a PS3 fyi)

Could these issue be solved by switching from the default (with starter kit) IR glasses to DLP Link glasses?

Are my eyes broken?


(Sorry if this post failed to make sense. I'm just learning to speak "3d")
bhalbower's Avatar bhalbower 10:47 AM 12-22-2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjknatl View Post

If the switch/splitter sends a different EDID to the DTV receiver than the EDID of the 3D adapter, then it definitely won't work in that case. Not sure which switches pass through the EDID versus which send their own EDID but the HDX-420X must be passing the EDID through.

I would put DTV on channel 103. Look at input 1(no 3D adapter in the path) and would get the DTV 3D failure message. I would switch output A to input 2 on the switch and immediately channel 103 would appear in 3D.

Returned the 1.3a and purchased the 1.3c HDX-420X model and everything works perfect now.

Thanks.
Spoodily's Avatar Spoodily 11:01 AM 12-22-2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyerox View Post

I own the Mitsubishi 60c10. I have it connected to the 3dc-1000 (via starter kit) and I use the Mitsubishi ir emitter with Mitsubishi glasses. My only source is an updated firmware PS3. The adapter is set to 3d-normal. The television has DLP - off, 3d mode on, and standard polarity.

I have tried:

Games - Motorstorm Pacific Rift 3d, Wipeout 3d
Video - Sony "3d Sizzle", Disney "Timon and Pumba 3d Starter Disk"

When viewing any of this media I notice the "window" and "depth" aspect of the 3d. It's almost as if I could reach into the television and I can see different parallax levels from the content. I do have a problem though. At certain point it's apparent that things are supposed to come OUT of the television. The content that is supposed to come OUT of the television (appear closer to me than the screen) looks blurry or "out of phase" or is difficult to focus my eyes on.

I have viewed 3d content on Sonys and Panasonics at big box retailers, and the "coming out of the TV" effect is pronounced.

On My Mitsubishi it's almost non existent. A specific example is the MLB baseball section on the Sony 3d sizzle video. It shows a runner sliding into second while the second baseman throws to first. The baseball is in the middle of the screen but it is blurry and unfocused. The rest of the screen has depth, but the baseball appears to be "out of phaze".

Another example is Motorstorm and the Motorstorm section of the sizzle video. When going through trees or when tires are flung from cars (GREAT GAME!), as I approach these objects I get the depth effect, but once it reaches the Z-axis of my screen it becomes unfocused.

Could these problems be because of limitations in the checkerboard format, which the Sony and Panasonic didn't need an adapter to produce? (Sony content was viewed with a PS3 fyi)

Could these issue be solved by switching from the default (with starter kit) IR glasses to DLP Link glasses?

Are my eyes broken?

(Sorry if this post failed to make sense. I'm just learning to speak "3d")

It's you. With some practice your eyes will be able to cross and focus on the ball coming out if the screen.
Spoodily's Avatar Spoodily 11:07 AM 12-22-2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by RebelCapitalist View Post

Hey guys,

I'm a little confused. Was looking at Panny 3D, but my budget is stretched on just a 50" TV and I've ready that viewing in 3D actually shrinks the TV size visually.

So I'm looking at a Mits WD-65738 on Amazon because it's in my budget range. The page says 3D. Now, do I need an adapter thing or just the TV and glasses?

My main use is mostly gaming and some blu-ray (no sat/cable at all).

You just download a firmware update onto a thumb drive and follow the update instructions. It's a simple procedure if you follow the instructions. I set up my parents 73738 yesterday. It's beautiful. I have an older 65736 and I am jealous of their new model! I gave them my emitter and ir glasses from my starter kit. It looks better than the movie theater IMO. Go for the 65738!

Also the speakers were pretty good in this tv so if you don't have a surround sound setup yet I wouldn't worry about it. My 736 had crummy speakers.
Justin-Dawson's Avatar Justin-Dawson 11:11 AM 12-22-2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyerox View Post

I own the Mitsubishi 60c10. I have it connected to the 3dc-1000 (via starter kit) and I use the Mitsubishi ir emitter with Mitsubishi glasses. My only source is an updated firmware PS3. The adapter is set to 3d-normal. The television has DLP - off, 3d mode on, and standard polarity.

I have tried:

Games - Motorstorm Pacific Rift 3d, Wipeout 3d
Video - Sony "3d Sizzle", Disney "Timon and Pumba 3d Starter Disk"

When viewing any of this media I notice the "window" and "depth" aspect of the 3d. It's almost as if I could reach into the television and I can see different parallax levels from the content. I do have a problem though. At certain point it's apparent that things are supposed to come OUT of the television. The content that is supposed to come OUT of the television (appear closer to me than the screen) looks blurry or "out of phase" or is difficult to focus my eyes on.

I have viewed 3d content on Sonys and Panasonics at big box retailers, and the "coming out of the TV" effect is pronounced.

On My Mitsubishi it's almost non existent. A specific example is the MLB baseball section on the Sony 3d sizzle video. It shows a runner sliding into second while the second baseman throws to first. The baseball is in the middle of the screen but it is blurry and unfocused. The rest of the screen has depth, but the baseball appears to be "out of phaze".

Another example is Motorstorm and the Motorstorm section of the sizzle video. When going through trees or when tires are flung from cars (GREAT GAME!), as I approach these objects I get the depth effect, but once it reaches the Z-axis of my screen it becomes unfocused.

Could these problems be because of limitations in the checkerboard format, which the Sony and Panasonic didn't need an adapter to produce? (Sony content was viewed with a PS3 fyi)

Could these issue be solved by switching from the default (with starter kit) IR glasses to DLP Link glasses?

Are my eyes broken?


(Sorry if this post failed to make sense. I'm just learning to speak "3d")

I've noticed that small objects sometimes become hard to focus on when they're popping out of the screen (branches, small fish, etc). I figured it was the result of just watching mostly SBS content however (figured it was a resolution thing)... I guess not.
eyerox's Avatar eyerox 11:26 AM 12-22-2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin-Dawson View Post

I've noticed that small objects sometimes become hard to focus on when they're popping out of the screen (branches, small fish, etc). I figured it was the result of just watching mostly SBS content however (figured it was a resolution thing)... I guess not.

Exactly.


I have no problems viewing this stuff correctly with other TV's and glasses.

You mentioned that you chalked it up to SBS. Do things not look as good with SBS? I have seen posts and info showing the technical differences between the formats, but I haven't seen ANY (other than resolution differnces) showing perception or viewing differences between the formats.
jjknatl's Avatar jjknatl 12:22 PM 12-22-2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyerox View Post

Exactly.


I have no problems viewing this stuff correctly with other TV's and glasses.

You mentioned that you chalked it up to SBS. Do things not look as good with SBS? I have seen posts and info showing the technical differences between the formats, but I haven't seen ANY (other than resolution differnces) showing perception or viewing differences between the formats.

It kind of sounds like you have the left-right sync backwards but you said standard polarity so I guess not. Change to reverse for the heck of it and see what happens (of just flip the glasses upside down).

Have you tried DLP Link glasses? The image with my CE5s appears "sharper" than with my Mits glasses, albeit it could be because of the DLP Link flash in my case since I have a 2009 model and can't shut it off. You might try DLP Links just to see if you like them better. They ordinarily will require reverse mode.

One thing I have noticed is that sometimes the content itself gets the left right sync wrong. I've noticed this for live events where one camera may have it backwards. When they go to that camera the image looks awkward. I paused it once, flipped over the glasses and voila, looked good. So, I confirmed it was the content itself causing the issue.

For me, a good test to see something come out of the screen was watching the wild safari stuff on DTV channel 103. At the beginning there is a scene showing the Earth from space and the Earth literally appears to be floating out in front of my TV and is in crystal clear focus even with the SBS to checkerboard conversion occurring. It is now one of my favorite things to demo.
eyerox's Avatar eyerox 12:26 PM 12-22-2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjknatl View Post

It kind of sounds like you have the left-right sync backwards but you said standard polarity so I guess not. Change to reverse for the heck of it and see what happens (of just flip the glasses upside down).

Have you tried DLP Link glasses? The image with my CE5s appears "sharper" than with my Mits glasses, albeit it could be because of the DLP Link flash in my case since I have a 2009 model and can't shut it off. You might try DLP Links just to see if you like them better. They ordinarily will require reverse mode.

One thing I have noticed is that sometimes the content itself gets the left right sync wrong. I've noticed this for live events where one camera may have it backwards. When they go to that camera the image looks awkward. I paused it once, flipped over the glasses and voila, looked good. So, I confirmed it was the content itself causing the issue.

For me, a good test to see something come out of the screen was watching the wild safari stuff on DTV channel 103. At the beginning there is a scene showing the Earth from space and the Earth literally appears to be floating out in front of my TV and is in crystal clear focus even with the SBS to checkerboard conversion occurring. It is now one of my favorite things to demo.

That's my next move. I'm trying to find someone selling DLP link glasses locally so I can take them back if it doesn't change anything. I'm not seeing them at "big box" stores at all.
bsevern's Avatar bsevern 05:19 PM 12-22-2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyerox View Post
I own the Mitsubishi 60c10. I have it connected to the 3dc-1000 (via starter kit) and I use the Mitsubishi ir emitter with Mitsubishi glasses. My only source is an updated firmware PS3. The adapter is set to 3d-normal. The television has DLP - off, 3d mode on, and standard polarity.

I have tried:

Games - Motorstorm Pacific Rift 3d, Wipeout 3d
Video - Sony "3d Sizzle", Disney "Timon and Pumba 3d Starter Disk"

When viewing any of this media I notice the "window" and "depth" aspect of the 3d. It's almost as if I could reach into the television and I can see different parallax levels from the content. I do have a problem though. At certain point it's apparent that things are supposed to come OUT of the television. The content that is supposed to come OUT of the television (appear closer to me than the screen) looks blurry or "out of phase" or is difficult to focus my eyes on.

I have viewed 3d content on Sonys and Panasonics at big box retailers, and the "coming out of the TV" effect is pronounced.

On My Mitsubishi it's almost non existent. A specific example is the MLB baseball section on the Sony 3d sizzle video. It shows a runner sliding into second while the second baseman throws to first. The baseball is in the middle of the screen but it is blurry and unfocused. The rest of the screen has depth, but the baseball appears to be "out of phaze".

Another example is Motorstorm and the Motorstorm section of the sizzle video. When going through trees or when tires are flung from cars (GREAT GAME!), as I approach these objects I get the depth effect, but once it reaches the Z-axis of my screen it becomes unfocused.

Could these problems be because of limitations in the checkerboard format, which the Sony and Panasonic didn't need an adapter to produce? (Sony content was viewed with a PS3 fyi)

Could these issue be solved by switching from the default (with starter kit) IR glasses to DLP Link glasses?

Are my eyes broken?


(Sorry if this post failed to make sense. I'm just learning to speak "3d")
I have the WD-65738 and upgraded to firmware 12.06 (negating the 3D adapter) , but I also am noticing a similar issue. I haven't watched a lot of 3D content yet, but so far the DVD with the best 3D effect for me has been the IMAX Space 3D program, BUT I understand exactly what you're saying as I can tell on other programs there should be more of a "pop-out" 3D effect, although within the boundaries of the screen the 3D looks great. I even went as far as making sure that the stand I purchased had perfect viewing height, which is apparently an important requirement for DLP sets.

I'm going to play around with it some more. I have Avatar 3D and Dispicable Me 3D, as well as a bunch of Imax programs to check out before I go to any extremes to tweak the 3D, but thus far I think it needs tweaking as it's not as good as the Mits DLP that I saw at Frys with 3D.
Paul McPherson's Avatar Paul McPherson 04:35 PM 12-31-2010
Are 1.4 HDMI cables required for all HDMI connections for the solutions suggested in this thread?

And, is a firmware upgrade required for my WD-73835 (2008 model) in order to use the adapter (if I'm not going to have a 3D BR player that dosen't do checker box) & DLP link glasses to do this right.

Thanks.
Augerhandle's Avatar Augerhandle 07:23 PM 12-31-2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul McPherson View Post

Are 1.4 HDMI cables required for all HDMI connections for the solutions suggested in this thread?

And, is a firmware upgrade required for my WD-73835 (2008 model) in order to use the adapter (if I'm not going to have a 3D BR player that dosen't do checker box) & DLP link glasses to do this right.

Thanks.

No for the cables. HDMI has eliminated the number system for cables. You need high-speed or high speed w/ethernet. Any recently made quality cable should work. People here on the forums recommend monoprice or bluejeans cables, but I use several types, including Belkin and the cheapo amazon brand and they all work fine.

No for the firmware upgrade as well. I have the WD-65835 and am using it with the adapter.
Paul McPherson's Avatar Paul McPherson 08:33 PM 01-01-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

No for the cables. HDMI has eliminated the number system for cables. You need high-speed or high speed w/ethernet. Any recently made quality cable should work. People here on the forums recommend monoprice or bluejeans cables, but I use several types, including Belkin and the cheapo amazon brand and they all work fine.

No for the firmware upgrade as well. I have the WD-65835 and am using it with the adapter.

Excellent, thanks. Just waiting to get the adapter & cables. I think I will get the Panny 100 so I can use the adapter for my DirecTV box & not have to use it for the 3D BRs.
cakefoo's Avatar cakefoo 03:04 AM 01-02-2011
I'm going to be getting a 638 or 738 series TV, but first I need to know couple things.

About the tint issue during 3D mode: when/with what models does it happen and what do I need to do to avoid it?

I read on an Amazon customer review that the DLP Link flash washes out contrast if using active shutter, and that DLP Link glasses will look better because they filter out the flash. How much truth is there to these statements? Can you deactivate DLP Link to make active shutter PQ better?
walford's Avatar walford 10:31 AM 01-02-2011
Get a xx738 or xx838 model since they can direclty receive all of the HDMI 1.4a 3D resolution formats directly without an adapter and you can turn of DLP-Link with these models if you like. I understrant the main advantage of the xx838 models over the xx738 models is much better sound with HD or 3D program content.
fxrh's Avatar fxrh 12:47 AM 01-03-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by cakefoo View Post

About the tint issue during 3D mode: when/with what models does it happen and what do I need to do to avoid it?

It happens with all models prior to the 2010 models. You cannot turn off DLP-Link mode on earlier models. The xx638 and xx738 models you are considering are 2010 models; they will not have the problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cakefoo View Post

I read on an Amazon customer review that the DLP Link flash washes out contrast if using active shutter, and that DLP Link glasses will look better because they filter out the flash. How much truth is there to these statements?

Both are true. However, given the models you are considering, you could use the glasses that come with the Mitsubishi starter kit as an alternative to the DLP-Link glasses. However, if you get a xx738 model, you might not want the starter kit since a recent firmware upgrade for it eliminates the need for the adapter that comes with the kit. (This firmware upgrade is not available for the xx638.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by cakefoo View Post

Can you deactivate DLP Link to make active shutter PQ better?

You can deactivate DLP-Link on the 2010 sets. The PQ on these sets using the Mitsubishi shutter glasses is basically the same as the PQ on the older sets using DLP-Link glasses. (My sister has a 2010 set and uses the starter kit glasses. Her set looks almost exactly the same as my 2009 set with the Optoma DLP-Link glasses.)
cakefoo's Avatar cakefoo 02:34 AM 01-03-2011
Thanks fxrh. I appreciate the help as I go through the final checklist.

And you gotta flip the L/R to use DLP Link, right? So you can't use DLP Link and IR glasses at the same time? Because my next decision will be do I go all DLP Link (attractively affordable) or all IR.

Oops, and one thing I don't completely follow was about the PQ as affected by the DLP Link flash. When I said, "I read ..that the DLP Link flash washes out contrast if using active shutter, and that DLP Link glasses will look better because they filter out the flash?" I meant to say "if using IR active shutter." The concern being that supposedly the IR glasses pattern isn't filtering out the white flash, whereas the DLP Link glasses are, but if you can disable DLP Link then IR shutter should look just as good. Sorry for the redundant question, just trying to get that extra bit of clarity.
mikemav's Avatar mikemav 11:14 AM 01-03-2011
Sorry if this has been asked before, but is anyone here using a Mits DLP with Nvidia 3D Vision kit and the included Nvidia IR emitter and glasses, AS well as the Mits 3D adapter to use non-PC sources such as PS3 or Comcast 3D? I have such a setup- I've been using the Nvidia IR emitter and shutter glasses for PC gaming (no adapter required), and it works great.

I got the Mits adapter (not the starter kit with their glasses) so I could hook up my PS3 in 3D. I finally got it to work, using the Nvidia IR emitter and their glasses, but had some questions. First off, in this setup, the Nvidia IR emitter seems to need to be powered/driver enabled by connecting it to a PC setup w/ 3D Vision enabled. I was able to connect the emitter to the TV and Mits adapter box via the emitter in/out loop, but without connecting the Nvidia emitter USB as well (to a PC running 3D Vision) it didn't light up or seem to work. Do I really have to have my PC on and running something 3D behind the scenes just to get the PS3 to display 3D? Seems kludgey at best. This did work, but it seems it should work without needing a PC too?

I already have two pair of Nvidia glasses, and they look great in my PC gaming implementation, so I'd rather not have to get DLP Link also. The further question is, even if I were to get DLP Link glasses, would these also work with the PC games and the Nvidia 3D Vision driver as my games work now? I don't want to try 3rd party drivers like DDD or Ized since 3D Vision on the PC works really well on the games I routiely play, but would this even work w/ DLP Link if I used that instead of Nvidia IR glasses?

Model TV is the 60-735 BTW. Thanks
ffactoryxx's Avatar ffactoryxx 11:54 AM 01-03-2011
Haven't followed this in a few months but is there word of Firmware to turn off Link Flash for pre 2010 models
mikemav's Avatar mikemav 11:57 AM 01-03-2011
Funny thing is I never noticed a green tint or issue using the Nvidia 3D Vision kit and their IR active shutter glasses, but I never tried Mits glasses or DLP link models.
eyerox's Avatar eyerox 12:34 PM 01-03-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyerox View Post
That's my next move. I'm trying to find someone selling DLP link glasses locally so I can take them back if it doesn't change anything. I'm not seeing them at "big box" stores at all.
Still not seeing these locally. I might have to breakdown and order a pair of Optomas.
njfoses's Avatar njfoses 04:19 PM 01-03-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by ffactoryxx View Post

Haven't followed this in a few months but is there word of Firmware to turn off Link Flash for pre 2010 models

Mits has stated it cannot be corrected via firmware. I would put odds at less than 1% this ever gets corrected on the pre 2010 sets.
daddy-oh's Avatar daddy-oh 04:18 PM 01-11-2011
It happens with all models prior to the 2010 models. You cannot turn off DLP-Link mode on earlier models. The xx638 and xx738 models you are considering are 2010 models; they will not have the problem.

Just want to clarify this, you are correct on the 2010 638 models having the ability to turn off DLP link and therefore showing EXCELLENT blacks on 3D, but just want everyone to know that you have to buy the 738 or 838 series to eliminate the adapter. You probably know this, but I wanted to make sure anyone getting ready to purchase knows it too.

Now if there was just a way to turn it off on my 73C9 so I could enjoy real blacks, but I don't guess Mitsubishi cares about that if you have already spent your money. No firmware upgrade for me.
JOHNnDENVER's Avatar JOHNnDENVER 04:25 PM 01-11-2011
I just want some clarification....

If you use DLP-Link glasses then there is no issue right?
njfoses's Avatar njfoses 05:25 PM 01-11-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNnDENVER View Post

I just want some clarification....

If you use DLP-Link glasses then there is no issue right?

The issue with dlp link glasses are that a lot of people see rainbows through the glasses. Pick your poison.
XRA's Avatar XRA 07:01 PM 01-11-2011
I haven't noticed the rainbow issue myself, not on RE: Afterlife, anyway, and that's with the Xpand 102s. Just need to try my new UC DLP-Link glasses then I'll be set.
mikemav's Avatar mikemav 07:35 PM 01-11-2011
Sorry if this has been asked before, but is anyone using 3D Link glassed like Xpand 102 or universals like Xpand 103 for PC gaming using the Nvidia 3D Vision driver? I use 3D Vision w/ emitter and Nvidia glasses now w/ Mits 60735, but if that model supports 3D Link I'd like to try it to compare (& it works w/ my DLP projector too) I have the Mits 1.4 adapter to use w/ PS3 but its a pain w/ nvidia emitter since it seems that needs to be connected usb to an active PC at the same time to function. Maybe DLP Link might suit both console and PC best (if it also plays well with the otherwise excellent Nvidia 3D Vision game profiles for many many PC titles...)
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