3D mode on my Mitsubishi DLP's - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 662 Old 08-25-2010, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Jovan023 View Post

Guys I wrote Mitsubishi this letter today

Dear Customer Service,

I was calling to report an issue with my Mitsubish WD73C9 television. Let me first start off by saying, the tv is fantastic. The picture quality is top notch with an absolutely amazing picture during everything I have ever viewed up to this point.

I recently recieved the 3D starter kit and noticed a dramatic decrease in the quality of the picture in 3D mode. I have talked with some friends and they also noticed that all the blacks on the TV were a green tint. This is a very highly noticable difference viewing anything that is remotely dark from 3D movies to 3D games.

I have researched the problem online and found that it is the DLP-link flashing screen that tells the DLP link glasses to change shutters. The screen flashes green and is greatly affecting the picture quality. Speaking to people that own the DLP link glasses, there is no green tint whatsoever because the glasses become opaque when the green screen appears and the effect is gone. They also report that indeed the picture is the same stunningly amazing quality that the TV normally has.

I would like to know how I can turn the DLP link option off on my TV to disable this and solve this "greenish black" problem and restore my picture back to its amazing quality. If there is no way I can physically do it, I would like to request a firmware update that allows this option to be turned off. It is my understanding that the 2010 DLPs by Mitsubishi have the option of turning the DLP link off according to owners of this TV that I have spoken with. Please advise me on this matter.

Thank you very much,



I will let you all know their reply, looking forward to hearing from them

Hi Jovan023

Nice email, I sent them something similar and called as well. I got nothing more than a brush off. They know about the issue and will only say it is "normal" operation. Their definition of "normal" however is only that all pre-2010 sets exhibit this behavior. Whether or not it is acceptable is another story. They had no information on if they could or would ever correct this. Hopefully they will start to take this seriously as more people complain. You may also want to call and express your displeasure. Please let us know what they say.
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post #182 of 662 Old 08-25-2010, 08:47 AM
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Hopefully they will write me soon. If not I plan on pursuing. I really do love the picture on this tv, it is outstanding, its a shame to have it degrade so much in 3d mode. And I made sure my wife and friends could see the "green" so I wasnt just going crazy.

Seems like an easy fix to me, firmware that would just simply add an on/off option in the 3d menu, it would be a perfect fix and wouldnt require me to return the 3d kit, glasses etc and pick up some outside manufacturers stuff. If they want to bring in more $$$, the firmware fix (at least in my opinion) is the way to go. Hopefully it will be resolved soon. If not ill be busy watching 3greenD
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post #183 of 662 Old 08-25-2010, 08:54 AM
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Also, if they are not willing to correct an easily fixable problem, then I'm happy to add my name to the class action lawsuit list. I do think its a good idea to pursue. The sole reason for my purchase was for 3D.
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post #184 of 662 Old 08-25-2010, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jovan023 View Post

Guys I wrote Mitsubishi this letter today

Dear Customer Service,

I was calling to report an issue with my Mitsubish WD73C9 television. Let me first start off by saying, the tv is fantastic. The picture quality is top notch with an absolutely amazing picture during everything I have ever viewed up to this point.

I recently recieved the 3D starter kit and noticed a dramatic decrease in the quality of the picture in 3D mode. I have talked with some friends and they also noticed that all the blacks on the TV were a green tint. This is a very highly noticable difference viewing anything that is remotely dark from 3D movies to 3D games.

I have researched the problem online and found that it is the DLP-link flashing screen that tells the DLP link glasses to change shutters. The screen flashes green and is greatly affecting the picture quality. Speaking to people that own the DLP link glasses, there is no green tint whatsoever because the glasses become opaque when the green screen appears and the effect is gone. They also report that indeed the picture is the same stunningly amazing quality that the TV normally has.

I would like to know how I can turn the DLP link option off on my TV to disable this and solve this "greenish black" problem and restore my picture back to its amazing quality. If there is no way I can physically do it, I would like to request a firmware update that allows this option to be turned off. It is my understanding that the 2010 DLPs by Mitsubishi have the option of turning the DLP link off according to owners of this TV that I have spoken with. Please advise me on this matter.

Thank you very much,



I will let you all know their reply, looking forward to hearing from them

See post #26 in this thread for your answer.
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post #185 of 662 Old 08-25-2010, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natrix1973 View Post

See post #26 in this thread for your answer.

I believe "cannot provide retrofits" really means "choose not to provide retrofits."

Maybe part of the problem is that not all sets can easily receive firmware updates? So, they just say no retrofit for all users? For instance, I don't believe my C9 has a USB or RS-232 so not sure firmware can be upgraded without a service call. Service calls would be costly.

Another possiblity is that the DLP-Link function and the emitter function are tied together in hardware and are not separately switchable on the pre-2010 circuit boards, which would necessitate a new circuit board. A hardware retrofit would be costly.

Considering the costs to them of the options above, they should have been aware of this issue when they designed the kit and I think they took a shortcut by using the Samsung glasses in the kit. They should have offered emitter glasses that are intended to operate in a DLP-Link environment by responding to the IR signal by shuttering both lenses when switching from left to right, and hence during the DLP flash.
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post #186 of 662 Old 08-25-2010, 12:37 PM
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+! you are right on
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post #187 of 662 Old 08-25-2010, 12:59 PM
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This is unacceptable...I cannot believe that they can't address it, they have effectively screwed everyone who bought the starter kit. What a joke. I am going to call after work and give them a piece of my mind.
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post #188 of 662 Old 08-25-2010, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walford View Post

Nvidia 3D Play glases are controlled by an IR emitter connected to the PC and have nothing to do with DLP-Link glases. If when using Nvidia 3D play with a DLP-Link capable 3D TV you can currently use DLP-Link glasses then it just indicates that there not a reversal problem between the two types of glases.

According to this thread, if Nvidia is not blanking out the DLP-LINK white flash it (my blacks in particular) should look like crud.
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post #189 of 662 Old 08-25-2010, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Waltm View Post

I'm just curious, did you have to update your Mits with the firmware on the Nvidia driver disk?

I don't run a Mits. I run a 720p / 120hz projector setup. It just seems the issue shoudl still be seen is all because I leave DLP-Link enabled on the projector because I also use DLP-Link glasses at the same time as my Nvidia glasses / emitter.
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post #190 of 662 Old 08-25-2010, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jovan023 View Post

Also, if they are not willing to correct an easily fixable problem, then I'm happy to add my name to the class action lawsuit list. I do think its a good idea to pursue. The sole reason for my purchase was for 3D.

Count me in.

I would be happy with the dlp-link glasses if it weren't for the polarization rainbows that are quite distracting with bright content. I wonder if Mitsubishi knew about this when they went with the Samsung glasses or just got lucky.
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post #191 of 662 Old 08-26-2010, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bcterp View Post

I would be happy with the dlp-link glasses if it weren't for the polarization rainbows that are quite distracting with bright content.

No Dlp-link rainbows here.

Video Games, 3D, and Home Theater Forever! ^_^

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post #192 of 662 Old 08-26-2010, 03:20 PM
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Hyabusha-- Were the glasses comfortable to wear, above the ears and the nose, just curious, they were a little tight for me, thanks.
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post #193 of 662 Old 08-26-2010, 04:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ksupilot7 View Post

Hyabusha-- Were the glasses comfortable to wear, above the ears and the nose, just curious, they were a little tight for me, thanks.

Well, I use the small nose piece, so that's fine. It's just right above the ears, that I can notice some tightness after about an hour. A very MINOR Inconvenience compared to the Green/Teal/Cloudy Lime blacks I was experiencing before.

Video Games, 3D, and Home Theater Forever! ^_^

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post #194 of 662 Old 08-26-2010, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Hyabusha View Post

No Dlp-link rainbows here.

I wish I could say that. This is what I am referring to when I say polarization rainbow. The green/purple discoloration in the upper left corner of the screen is actually a little worse in person than what I could capture in the picture. This also appears on the upper right hand side of the screen as well. They are completely static and can be seen through both my Optoma and Xpand DLP-link glasses whether they are on or off. It doesn't matter if 3D mode is on or off either. A 45 degree tilt of the head makes them disappear. With the Mits glasses they are nonexistent when viewing normally, unless you tilt your head 45 degrees, then they appear just as in this pic. No idea what component causes this.
LL
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post #195 of 662 Old 08-27-2010, 04:04 AM
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Turn down your contrast just a little. Most times when people see rainbows there contrast is all the way up. just back it off. You should see no rainbows or very little.
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post #196 of 662 Old 08-27-2010, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Daniel Murray View Post

Turn down your contrast just a little. Most times when people see rainbows there contrast is all the way up. just back it off. You should see no rainbows or very little.

Unfortunately changing settings doesn't help at all, I've tried every combination I could think of. My contrast is at 45 out of 60 in the picture. It's just as noticeable no matter how far down the contrast is set.
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post #197 of 662 Old 08-27-2010, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bcterp View Post

Unfortunately changing settings doesn't help at all, I've tried every combination I could think of. My contrast is at 45 out of 60 in the picture. It's just as noticeable no matter how far down the contrast is set.

My contrast is lower than that and I still saw them as well. People either have them or they don't, it is not settings related. My bet is on a bad batch of the plastic screens.
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post #198 of 662 Old 08-27-2010, 01:20 PM
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In two years on my 65835 I have not seen any rainbows but on my old 62725 I did see them a lot until I turned down the contrast.
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post #199 of 662 Old 08-27-2010, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Daniel Murray View Post

In two years on my 65835 I have not seen any rainbows but on my old 62725 I did see them a lot until I turned down the contrast.

Just to clarify, this is not the common dlp rainbow effect caused by the color wheel. This only appears while looking through shutter glasses, off or on.
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post #200 of 662 Old 08-27-2010, 03:41 PM
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My bad
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post #201 of 662 Old 08-30-2010, 04:50 AM
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I ordered 2 pair of the Viewsonic glasses from Amazon and should have them in a day or so. Will report results. I'm skeptical on how much different glasses will even help but hopeful.

With my 73C9 when I turn on 3D mode, one of the best examples of seeing just how bad your blacks suffer is to turn on a station showing 4:3 content. Take a look at how much your deep blacks go away on the left and right of the screen when you switch on 3D mode. It's alarming.
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post #202 of 662 Old 08-30-2010, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by BradP View Post

I ordered 2 pair of the Viewsonic glasses from Amazon and should have them in a day or so. Will report results. I'm skeptical on how much different glasses will even help but hopeful.

With my 73C9 when I turn on 3D mode, one of the best examples of seeing just how bad your blacks suffer is to turn on a station showing 4:3 content. Take a look at how much your deep blacks go away on the left and right of the screen when you switch on 3D mode. It's alarming.

You'll be shocked by how much better the Viewsonic glasses are, IF they perform at least as well as the optomas.

You can also easily notice the teal when watching content that is wider than the 16:9 ratio. The top and bottom black bars are not so black. The worst I have seen however is the Peter Gabriel show on directv. The piano takes up a lot of the screen and it should be deep black but is not even close.
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post #203 of 662 Old 08-30-2010, 11:04 AM
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I got my Optomas delivered over the weekend. The image quality is definitely better than the IR glasses, but I'm also getting a bit of the rainbow effect that's been described. I consider it the lesser of two evils.

So, now I have 2 pairs of IR glasses and the emitter. Anyone interested? PM me.
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post #204 of 662 Old 08-30-2010, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jjknatl View Post

You can also easily notice the teal when watching content that is wider than the 16:9 ratio. The top and bottom black bars are not so black. The worst I have seen however is the Peter Gabriel show on directv. The piano takes up a lot of the screen and it should be deep black but is not even close.

The Universe on N3D is a prime example as well. Who knew space was so green?
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post #205 of 662 Old 08-30-2010, 05:47 PM
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Just to clarify what the benefit of the Optoma/Viewsonic DLP Link glasses are...

When the glasses are on, their electronics in the lens basically block out the greys/greens from the DLP link/flash we see so our eyes only see the deep blacks, even though to the naked eye or while using the IR glasses, you see the muted blacks. So in theory, it's still there on the screen, it's just that DLP link glasses block that from the eye's image which restores the deeper, richer black as it should be.

Is that correct?
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post #206 of 662 Old 08-30-2010, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BradP View Post

Just to clarify what the benefit of the Optoma/Viewsonic DLP Link glasses are...

When the glasses are on, their electronics in the lens basically block out the greys/greens from the DLP link/flash we see so our eyes only see the deep blacks, even though to the naked eye or while using the IR glasses, you see the muted blacks. So in theory, it's still there on the screen, it's just that DLP link glasses block that from the eye's image which restores the deeper, richer black as it should be.

Is that correct?

Exactly
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post #207 of 662 Old 08-30-2010, 08:20 PM
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I know this will not be much solace to you guys who are stuck with this issue with the starter pack, but I would like to say thank you for reporting this and making it widely known to those of us who keep up with tech on the forums here. It has been a great help to the people who were all set to purchase either the starter pack or Link glasses and now have thought wiser. Usually I'm a fairly early adopter of new tech but I think I'm gonna wait this one out, hopefully by the holidays there will be something available that doesn't turn blacks green or create rainbows.
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post #208 of 662 Old 08-31-2010, 05:42 AM
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Is there a consensus as to which brand of glasses are best for 2010 models?
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post #209 of 662 Old 08-31-2010, 06:30 AM
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I would imagine the Samsung/Mits emitter glasses since the 2010 models can turn dlp link off, which is the cause of the problem.
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post #210 of 662 Old 08-31-2010, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milmanias View Post

I would imagine the Samsung/Mits emitter glasses since the 2010 models can turn dlp link off, which is the cause of the problem.

Can you use the Samsung glasses on the 2010 Mitsubishis? Will any of the IE glasses work as long as you have the associated IR emitted? I would like to get some of the "kid sized" IR glasses and I don't think Mitsubishi makes them...
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