Mitsubishi 3D Checkerboard Converter + Gefen HDMI Detective = 3D on Samsung HL61A750 - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 679 Old 08-21-2010, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teremei View Post

You know what. It's a small price to pay to beable to watch 3D that's as impressive as the 3D in the theaters right in the comfort of my old home. And without downgrading in size from my 67" which I love.

I'm gonna buy Avatar for PS3 as I've heard that outputs in checkerboard format for it's 3D mode. It'll give me something else to do while I wait for more 3D content. Right now I'd say I'm a pretty happy camper. And it's all thanks to you all. Thanks for helping me set up my TV correctly. It works wonderfully and it really does look as impressive as the Panny Plasma's that first blew me away at Best Buy.


I a glad we were able to help you out. The Avatar games looks and plays great. You will enjoy it in 3D.
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post #362 of 679 Old 08-21-2010, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Illogical_Mind View Post

Where did you hear rumors about a samsung adaptor? I'ld rather have that than go through the 3da-1 adaptor trouble.

You guys were loads of help by the way. I'm loving this thread. I saw that this became a sticky. You should post up the items needed for this setup in the first post. (to complete yourself, instead of just buying tru3ds)

HDGuru 3D mentioned that according to industry sources a adapter compatible with the Samsung 3d capable TV will probably soon be available.
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post #363 of 679 Old 08-22-2010, 12:29 AM
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Sad,
Smoked the light engine on my 72a650. Won't be enjoying any 3d for a few days, while awaiting the parts.
JIM
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post #364 of 679 Old 08-22-2010, 03:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwitt View Post

Sad,
Smoked the light engine on my 72a650. Won't be enjoying any 3d for a few days, while awaiting the parts.
JIM

How did that happen Jim? Was it because you were viewing 3D content? I'd like to know because I'd rather not blow out my light engine from all the 3D gaming I've been doing. What are the signs that the light engine is going?
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post #365 of 679 Old 08-22-2010, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geaux Tigers View Post

I own a 3D ready Samsung HL61A750 DLP HDTV.
My Mitsubishi 3DA-1 3D Checkerboard Converter arrived today. I had previously purchased a Gefen HDMI Detective Plus and programed the EDID from a Mitsubishi 3D ready DLP into the Gefen. I hooked up my DirecTv HR24-500 to the Mitsubishi 3DA-1 Checkerboard Converter. I then hooked up the 3DA-1 to the Gefen HDMI Detective. Then I hooked up the Gefen to my Onkyo TX-SR805 A/V Receiver and ran the HDMI out to my Samsung HL61A750. I am using Samsung SSG1000 Glasses and the emitter that came with the glasses. I AM NOW ABLE TO WATCH 3D ON MY SAMSUNG HL61A750 AND THE PICTURE IS STUNNING. However, unfortunately my audio was being limited to 2.0 so I hooked up a Toslink cable from the HR24-500 to the Onkyo TX-SR805 and that solved the audio issue.

If someone can tell me how to attach an image then I will do that for everyone.

For you and others.. I purchased the Panny dmp-bdt350. This unit outputs checkerboard. Checkerboard output is the key.

I now run Panny> Denon 3808> Mits dlp tv. (If sammy wants checkerboard, it should work for you.)
Only hdmi between each which keeps all my audio signals alive.
I use the emitter, in kit, with Sammy glasses and it works great.

I purchased the Mits kit, but do not need the adapter. I may need it later for another device though, if not, it will be for sale.
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post #366 of 679 Old 08-23-2010, 07:21 PM
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Mr_C_Rawls,
No, 3d not a problem at all. Just a problem with Samsung DLP's, at least 650 series.
Usually about three major components go. If you replace one, the others will follow.
At the very last of Samsung DLP production they revised the entire light engine (all the major problematic parts) and those parts are now hardy.... But very expensive. I have a very good warranty/replacement program and the technician has ordered the entire light engine and board assembly, light wheel, fans, etc... Without even a house call.
Go to a forum re: your series and you can find out if your series is effected.
The popping starts and then the TV cycles off and on continually without a picture. At first you can let it cool for several hours and turn it on and it will work for awhile. Then start cycling off and on without picture.
For info, I swapped in a new standby replacement bulb which didn't help.
Hope yours is under some type of warranty and demand entire light engine.
JIM
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post #367 of 679 Old 08-24-2010, 12:22 AM
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Re: Tru3d system.
Anyone have their Tru3d system (Gefen) up and running yet?
I am very curious if they figured out a simple plug and play with the Gefen, not requiring the pre-connection of the 3da-1 to the TV and subsequent HDMI cable connections. Also, if the 3da-1 or D* receiver is powered off, does their's also require the above re do of the connections steps??

Also, re: a possible conversion box from Samsung.. With all the bad feelings that they have created with like 3+ million 3d ready DLP customers, I think they would have spoken up loudly by now that they were working on it and given a rough idea of when it would be available. Remember Mit's "Upgrade Promise"== just "vapor ware". But, someone finally came out with a conversion box to HDMI. Eventually, someone will engineer a conversion box for the Samsung.

Thanks, JIM
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post #368 of 679 Old 08-24-2010, 11:15 AM
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The ghosting is now gone...confirmed setting HDMI3 to PC eliminates the ghosting. However, I am still getting intermittent popping during 3d mode...
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post #369 of 679 Old 08-24-2010, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ookii B View Post

The ghosting is now gone...confirmed setting HDMI3 to PC eliminates the ghosting. However, I am still getting intermittent popping during 3d mode...

What is popping exactly? I'd like to know what it is so If I notice it I can attempt to have my TV fixed before it becomes a bigger issue.
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post #370 of 679 Old 08-24-2010, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_C_Rawls View Post

What is popping exactly? I'd like to know what it is so If I notice it I can attempt to have my TV fixed before it becomes a bigger issue.

It's like a static pop and the picture cuts out/flickers. Very annoying. I'm worried it's a sign of worse things to come.
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post #371 of 679 Old 08-24-2010, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ookii B View Post

It's like a static pop and the picture cuts out/flickers. Very annoying. I'm worried it's a sign of worse things to come.

Thanks for letting me know that. I haven't seen this yet and hopefully I never do. If it does happen, I'll probably end up just replacing the TV all together because it looks as if the parts are gonna be more expensive than a new TV and I don't have an extended warranty.
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post #372 of 679 Old 08-25-2010, 06:30 PM
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Curious,
Has anyone recently cloned the Gefen and got it up and running without the strange connections of step #9, post 224 ? I ask because I was wondering if any changes done by D* made those steps unnecessary. I'd check, but alas, still no TV.

Off Topic Re: The Light Engine Replacement.
I am not trying to lose business for service techs, but if you have an effected Samsung and no warranty, they should be able to tell you that it may not be worth fixing and possibly save you an expensive service call.
My tech said it was so easy to replace the entire engine, that I will be amazed how quick it goes in. Then needs a quick alignment.
I was thinking that, when the time comes, rather than trash that beautiful Samsung, maybe we can find a discounted, or at least not inflated, source for the assembly. A DIY thing. Should be much cheaper.
If it would be a help to others, I could document the steps of the install and alignment when mine gets done, soon.
If there's interest let me know and I will take it over to a proper thread.
JIM
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post #373 of 679 Old 08-26-2010, 09:59 AM
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I am very interested in knowing how to replace anything on my tv as it seems the time will come when this knowledge is going to be necessary.

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post #374 of 679 Old 08-26-2010, 12:40 PM
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Sent my gefen off to a friend to get programed. Hopefully I'll get it back next week.

I do have an observation though. I tried to program the gefen via the dip switch method to no avail. While doing so I tried it with the 3da-1 and gefen both before and after my onkyo receiver. I got the exact same results either way. I could see the split screen signal and the error message. Right now (or whenever there is content being broadcast) with nothing hooked up, I can still see the split screen signal. Hopefully this means I'll be able to put everything post receiver so as not to downgrade my audio. Thoughts?
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post #375 of 679 Old 08-26-2010, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfwil View Post

Sent my gefen off to a friend to get programed. Hopefully I'll get it back next week.

I do have an observation though. I tried to program the gefen via the dip switch method to no avail. While doing so I tried it with the 3da-1 and gefen both before and after my onkyo receiver. I got the exact same results either way. I could see the split screen signal and the error message. Right now (or whenever there is content being broadcast) with nothing hooked up, I can still see the split screen signal. Hopefully this means I'll be able to put everything post receiver so as not to downgrade my audio. Thoughts?

Well, there was never any actual reason to believe the dip switch method (profile 5) would work. It's not like anything in the Gefen literature, or anywhere really, suggested that profile 5 had 3D capable in it's EDID, let alone a specific Mitsubishi EDID as the 3DA-1 wants to see. It was pretty much just wishful thinking.

As for the audio, I would suggest turning off any video processing in the receiver that you can, to get as close to pure passthru as possible. I noticed that someone with an older Onkyo mentioned the signal from the PS3 was able to go right through his receiver to the 3DA-1 (after hooking up the 3DA-1 directly first to enable 3D). I'm thinking that his receiver was pre-OSD for HDMI inputs. It might be that if you can set the receiver to passthru and disable the OSD, it might work. People with newer 1.4 Onkyo's have been having problems also, and it was revealed that turning off the OSD solved some of them. Turning off the OSD was achieved through a button press rather than through the menu. Pressing VCR and Return simultaneously, repeat to enable OSD. Perhaps this workaround will let some of those with Onkyo receivers to place the device behind the receiver and be able to get lossless 5.1.

Enjoying BF4 on the PS4, bugs and all.
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post #376 of 679 Old 08-29-2010, 12:20 PM
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Yes as Mounta1n says there is no guarantee that you can get 3D working nor keep it working if you change back to 2D or turn anything off. This is esp. true if you have legacy hardware, an AVR in between, or a Samsung instead of a Mits. I have put together instructions on connecting these for most cases that are general and simple enough to be useful, including the various emitters and 3D glasses types. Yes I know its not perfect but it changes constantly. Suggestions welcome!


CONNECTING 3D READY DLP TV'S

THE COMPLEXITY OF THESE INSTRUCTIONS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH OUR 3D VIEWING KITS, BUT
IS DUE TO THE FACT THAT THERE ARE MANY KINDS OF OLDER NON HDMI 1.4 COMPLIANT TV'S. YOU
WILL HAVE THE SAME ISSUES AND PROCEDURES WITH ANY OTHER 3D VIEWING GLASSES.

CONNECTING YOUR MITSUBISHI 3D READY DLP TV FOR 3D BLURAY INPUT
1) Connect 3D BluRay player to any HDMI input on the TV and select it as the source with the
remote. In some cases it may be necessary to use an EDID detector such as the Gefen as well.
In this case see the instructions below.
2) On older models, such as 833 series use Menu button on the remote to select HDMI input 3 as
Game and select 3D On mode using the on screen menu. In newer models you can use any
input and select 3D ON etc.
3) Set your 3DBRay output to checkerboard (and if necessary for 1280 x 720 @ 60 Hz or 1920 x
1080 @ 60 Hz(720p or 1080p) output)and play the 3D BR DVD. Without the glasses, you should see
TWO images overlapping on the screen.
4) If you are using our Model X glasses with our Emitter make sure the STEADY GREEN light is on
in the Emitter (press the Mode button on back of Emitter repeatedly if it is any other color). If you
are NOT using Model X glasses see the Emitter instructions for correct color for your glasses. The
Model X turn on automatically when opened and like all shutter glasses turn off when they do not see
a 3D signal for several minutes.
5) Put on the shutter glasses to see the 3D and when you close your left eye or right eye you should
see only ONE image.
6) If the image appears strange and you are using the 3DTV Emitter, flip the Polarity switch on
the back of the 3DTV Emitter to reverse the eyes.
7) If you are using the Mitsubishi 3D A1 Converter BOX between your 3D BluRay player and your
TV, connect the player to the BOX with its HDMI cable, connect the Box to your TV with another
HDMI cable, and select the HDMI input 3 as the source with the remote. Follow the 3D A1
Instructions. If you are also using a Gefen HDMI emulator see instructions below.
8)If you have the 3DTV Model X glasses, plug the 3DTV Emitter into the TV 3D SYNC OUT as
described in our instructions. If you are using the Mitsubishi 3DA-1 adapter then connect it with
the supplied cable to the 3D SYNC OUT and then to the 3D GLASSES EMITTER IN and then plug the
3DTV Emitter into the 3DA-1 3D GLASSES EMITTER OUT.
9) If you have the 3DTV Model S glasses(ie, Samsung/Mitsubishi compatible)connect the
Converter BOX to the 3D Sync Out on the TV with the supplied VESA 3pin MiniDin cable and
follow the BOX instructions.
10) In theory you should always get the correct right/left eye polarity when using a 3D BluRay or
STB with 3DTV Corp Model S glasses and the 3D A1 with BluRay, but if not consult your TV,
STB or Converter Box manuals. You can switch polarity with your TV remote, with the switch
on the left bottom temple of our Model S glasses, or by using the polarity switch on our
Emitter.

CONNECTING YOUR MITSUBISHI 3D READY DLP TV FOR PC INPUT

1) Connect PC to HDMI input and select it as the source with the remote. You have to rename
this port Game on the 833 series and possibly others. In some cases it may be necessary to
use an EDID emulator such as the Gefen HDMI Detector Plus (see below).
2) If you have the 3DTV Model X glasses, plug the 3DTV Emitter into the TV 3D SYNC OUT as described
in our instructions. If you are using the Mitsubishi 3DA-1 adapter then connect it with the supplied
cable to the 3D SYNC OUT and then to the 3D GLASSES EMITTER IN and then plug the 3DTV Emitter
into the 3DA-1 3D GLASSES EMITTER OUT.
3) Set your pc video card for 1280 x 720 @ 60 Hz or 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz(720p or 1080p) output.
4) On older models, use Menu button on the remote to select FX Gaming and select 3D using the on
screen menu. In newer models you may need to select 3D etc.
5) Select Checkerboard or 3D DLP or DLP TV output mode in your game or 3D Video player and run
the game or video(see our faq for details).
6) Without the glasses, you should see TWO images overlapping on the screen.
7) If you are using our Model X glasses with our Emitter make sure the STEADY GREEN light is on in
the Emitter (press the Mode button on back of Emitter repeatedly if it is any other color). If you are
NOT using Model X glasses see the Emitter instructions for correct color for your glasses. The Model X
turn on automatically when opened and like all shutter glasses turn off when they do not see a 3D
signal for several minutes.
8) Put on the shutter glasses to see the 3D and when you close your left eye or right eye you should see
only ONE image.
9) If the image appears strange and you are using the 3DTV Emitter, flip the Polarity switch on the
back of the 3DTV Emitter to reverse the eyes. You can also reverse the eyes with the controls in the 3D
Games or 3D video players.

CONNECTING YOUR MITSUBISHI 3D READY DLP TV FOR CABLE TV INPUT

1) Connect Set Top Box (STB) supplied by your Cable or Satellite company
with its HDMI cable to your Mitsubishi 3D A1 Box and the Box with its HDMI cable to HDMI input
3 of your TV and select it as the source with the remote. You have to rename this input Game in
the 833 series and possibly others. Follow the 3D A1 Instructions. In some cases it may be
necessary to use the Gefen EDID detector as well. In this case see the instructions below.
2) If you have the 3DTV Model X glasses, plug the 3DTV Emitter into the TV 3D SYNC OUT as
described in our instructions. If you are using the Mitsubishi 3DA-1 adapter then connect it
with the supplied cable to the 3D SYNC OUT and then to the 3D GLASSES EMITTER IN and then
plug the 3DTV Emitter into the 3DA-1 3D GLASSES EMITTER OUT.
3) If you have the 3DTV Model S glasses (i.e., Samsung/Mitsubishi compatible) connect the 3DA-1
to the 3D Sync Out on the TV with the supplied VESA 3pin MiniDin cable as described in the 3D
A1 instructions.
4) On older models, use Menu button on the TV remote to select FX Gaming and select 3D
using the on screen menu. In newer models you may need to select 3D etc.
5) Turn on your STB, Converter Box and TV tuned to a 3D Channel with 3D Program showing.
Without the glasses, you should see TWO images overlapping on the screen. If you see one
image it is not a 3D program or some setting on your TV, Converter or STB is wrong. See
below for use of the 3DA-1 and the Gefen EDID Emulator.
6)If you are using our Model S glasses make sure they are fully charged, press the button to
turn them on and put them on.
7) If you are using our Model X glasses with our Emitter make sure the STEADY GREEN light is on in
the Emitter (press the Mode button on back of Emitter repeatedly if it is any other color). If you are
NOT using Model X glasses see the Emitter instructions for correct color for your glasses. The Model X
turn on automatically when opened and like all shutter glasses turn off when they do not see a 3D
signal for several minutes.
8) Put on the shutter glasses to see the 3D and when you close your left eye or right eye you should see
only ONE image. In theory you should always get the correct right/left eye polarity when using a 3D
BluRay or STB but if not consult your TV, STB or Converter Box manuals.
9) If the image appears strange and you are using the 3DTV Emitter, flip the Polarity switch on the
back of the 3DTV Emitter to reverse the eyes.

CONNECTING YOUR SAMSUNG 3D READY DLP TV FOR 3D BLURAY INPUT

Like Mitsubishi, Samsung must have input in Checkerboard format but unlike Mitsubishi they have
not made a converter which you need for some 3DBluRay players, DirectTV and other cable or
satellite 3D channels or PS3 and XBOX games. So, in addition to the Mitsubishi 3DA-1 Converter box
you must have an extra little EDID emulator box that fools the Mits converter into thinking your
Samsung 3D Ready DLP TV is a Mits. There are several such emulators with DVI connectors but at this
moment only one low cost oone with HDMI connectorsthe Gefen HDMI Detective Plus which you can
get for under $100. Following instructions below you can get nearly any kind of 3D source working
properly. You may then have only two channel audio but if you have a multichannel system you
should be able to use a Toslink cable to connect an amplifier directly to your source to solve this
problem.
1)Connect 3D BluRay player to HDMI 3 input and select it as the source with the remote. You may also
need to use the Gefen EDID Detective device as noted in Cable TV hookup section below.
2) If you have the 3DTV Model S glasses(ie, Samsung/Mitsubishi compatible)connect the
Converter box to the 3D Sync Out on the TV with the supplied VESA 3pin MiniDin cable. If using
our Model X glasses see below.
3) Set your 3DBRay output to checkerboard (and if necessary for 1280 x 720 @ 60 Hz or 1920 x 1080
@ 60 Hz(720p or 1080p) output)and play the 3D BR DVD.
4) In Older Models, press 3D button on the remote control until you see
"DLP 3D/DUAL-VIEW: ON STD GLS" or "DLP 3D/DUAL-VIEW: ON INV GLS". In newer models you may
need to select 3D etc.
5) Without the glasses, you should see TWO images overlapping on the screen.
6) If you are using our Model X glasses with our Emitter make sure the STEADY GREEN light is on in
the Emitter (press the Mode button on back of Emitter repeatedly if it is any other color). If you are
NOT using Model X glasses see the Emitter instructions for correct color for your glasses. The Model X
turn on automatically when opened and like all shutter glasses turn off when they do not see a 3D
signal for several minutes.
8) Put on the shutter glasses to see the 3D and when you close your left eye or right eye you should see
only ONE image.
9) If the image appears strange and you are using the 3DTV Emitter, flip the Polarity switch on the
back of the 3DTV Emitter to reverse the eyes. In theory you should always get the correct right/left
eye polarity when using a 3D BluRay or STB, but if not consult your TV, STB or Converter Box manuals.

CONNECTING YOUR SAMSUNG 3D READY DLP TV FOR PC INPUT

1)Connect PC to HDMI 3 input and select it as the source with the remote. You may also need
to use the Gefen EDID Detective device as noted in Cable TV hookup section below.
2) Plug the 3DTV Emitter into the TV 3D SYNC OUT as described in our instructions.
3) Set your pc video card for 1280 x 720 @ 60 Hz or 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz(720p or 1080p) output.
4) Press 3D button on the remote control until you see
"DLP 3D/DUAL-VIEW: ON STD GLS" or "DLP 3D/DUAL-VIEW: ON INV GLS"
5) Select Checkerboard or 3D DLP or DLP TV output mode in your game or 3D Video player and run
the game or video(see our faq for details).
6) Without the glasses, you should see TWO images overlapping on the screen.
7) If you are using our Model X glasses with our Emitter make sure the STEADY GREEN light is on in
the Emitter (press the Mode button on back of Emitter repeatedly if it is any other color). If you are
NOT using Model X glasses see the Emitter instructions for correct color for your glasses. The Model X
turn on automatically when opened and like all shutter glasses turn off when they do not see a 3D
signal for several minutes.
8) Put on the shutter glasses to see the 3D and when you close your left eye or right eye you should see
only ONE image.
9) If the image appears strange and you are using the 3DTV Emitter, flip the Polarity switch on the
back of the 3DTV Emitter to reverse the eyes. You can also reverse the eyes with the controls in the 3D
Games or 3D video players.

CONNECTING YOUR SAMSUNG 3D READY DLP TV FOR CABLE TV INPUT

To make Samsung 3D Ready DLP's work for cable or satellite 3D you will need to use an HDMI
detection device (such as the HDMI Detective from Gefen ) in addition to the Mitsubishi 3DA-1 adapter
box. You can buy this device for about $100 from many places including
http://www.buy.com/prod/gefen-video-capturingdevice/
q/listingid/95249332/loc/101/210880778.html
1) Follow the Gefen Instructions for getting the EDID data from your TV. Then Connect Set Top
Box (STB) supplied by your Cable or Satellite company with its HDMI cable to your Gefen and
the Box with its HDMI cable to HDMI 3 input of your TV and select it as the source with the
remote.
2)If you have the 3DTV Model X glasses, plug the 3DTV Emitter into the TV 3D SYNC OUT as
described in our instructions. Do NOT try to connect the 3D Sync Out to the Converter Box
3)If you have the 3DTV Model S glasses(ie, Samsung/Mitsubishi compatible)connect the
Converter box to the 3D Sync Out on the TV with the supplied VESA 3pin MiniDin cable.
4) In Older Models, press 3D button on the remote control until you see
"DLP 3D/DUAL-VIEW: ON STD GLS" or "DLP 3D/DUAL-VIEW: ON INV GLS". In newer models you may
have to select 3D etc.
6) Turn on your STB, Converter Box and TV tuned to a 3D Channel with 3D Program showing.
Without the glasses, you should see TWO images overlapping on the screen. If you see one
image it is not a 3D program or some setting on your tv, Converter or STB is wrong.
6)If you are using our Model S glasses make sure they are fully charged, press the button to
turn them on and put them on.
7) If you are using our Model X glasses with our Emitter make sure the STEADY GREEN light is on in
the Emitter (press the Mode button on back of Emitter repeatedly if it is any other color). If you are
NOT using Model X glasses see the Emitter instructions for correct color for your glasses. The Model X
turn on automatically when opened and like all shutter glasses turn off when they do not see a 3D
signal for several minutes.
8) Put on the shutter glasses to see the 3D and when you close your left eye or right eye you should see
only ONE image.
9) If the image appears strange and you are using the 3DTV Emitter, flip the Polarity switch on the
back of the 3DTV Emitter to reverse the eyes. In theory you should always get the correct right/left
eye polarity when using a 3D BluRay or STB but if not consult your TV, STB or Converter Box manuals.

CONNECTING A 3D SOURCE TO YOUR 3D Ready DLP TV USING THE MITSUBISHI 3DA-1 ADAPTER AND
THE GEFEN HDMI DETECTIVE PLUS

If you are just watching 3D BluRay with a player that has a checkerboard output or 3D content from a
PC or Mac with a 3D software player with checkerboard output (see our FAQ at www.3dt.jp or
www.3dmagic.com) you may not need anything except the 3DTV Emitter and glasses. However if you
are watching 3D Cable or Satellite or playing 3D Games on a PS3 or XBOX you will probably need the
3DA-1 to convert their side by side format to checkerboard and you may also need the Gefen
Detective device to get your source to recognize your TV and display the 3D signal. Most people with
Samsung 3D Ready DLP TV's will need both. Some people with the latest 2010 Models may not need
either. THESE ISSUES ARE DUE TO YOUR EQUIPMENT AND NOT TO OUR 3D VIEWING KITS!
1. With all equipment turned off connect the HDMI OUT of your 3D source (Set Top Box, 3D Blu-
Ray player, PS3, XBOX, PC, Mac) to the HDMI IN of the Mitsubishi 3DA-1 Adapter and connect
the HDMI OUT of the Adapter to the HDMI IN of the Gefen HDMI Detective Plus. READ THE
GEFEN MANUAL CAREFULLY AND FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY!
2. Connect Gefen HDMI OUT into the TV HDMI INPUT 3. Connect Mitsubishi or Samsung 3D Sync
OUT (see back of TV) to the 3DA-1 3D Emitter IN.
3. Plug the 3DTV Corp Emitter into the 3DA-1 3D Emitter OUT. THEN Plug in POWER to your
Mitsubishi 3DA-1 Adapter . You do NOT need power for the Gefen HDMI Detective Plus .
4. Turn on power to TV and 3D source and see that the 3DA-1 green power LEDs of the 3DA-1
and the Gefen . If not press the 3DA-1 power button to turn it on and use your Mitsubishi or
Samsung 3D DLP HDTV remote as described here to enter 3D mode and play your 3D source.
5. If you have HDMI 1.4 compliant 3D sources they should now be recognized by the 3DA-1 and
appear on the TV in 3D as two overlapping identical images without glasses and in 3D with
glasses. If the images look strange but look good when you turn the glasses upside down (i.e.,
they are pseudoscopic or reversed polarity) then use your TV remote to correct this. If using
more than one type of glasses you can switch polarity on the 3DTV Corp Emitter or Model S
glasses) . In case you see a side by side or top/bottom image pair (i.e., NO 3D), the 3DA-1 has
manual settings for SBS (i.e., the Side by Side squeezed format of most (all?) cable and satellite
3D TV broadcasts). It also has an above/below setting in case your source has that format
(i.e., the two images appear top/bottom squeezed).

CONNECTING MULTIPLE 3D SOURCES TO YOUR 3D Ready DLP TV

If you have more than one 3D source (e.g., a 3DBlu-Ray player and a Set Top Box from DirectTV,
Verizon etc) you can use an HDMI switcher with multiple inputs or an AVR (Audio Video Receiver
which connects to your speakers, TV, PC, 3D BluRay etc). If the switcher or AVR are not HDMI 1.4
compliant (i.e., made from about April 2010 or laterHDMI 1.3 devices will NOT usually work) then
you MAY be able to get everything working using the Gefen box BUT this can result in many vexing
problems and if at all possible you should either not use older components or buy a new HDMI 1.4
compliant switcher or AVR. Of course if possible you can avoid all or most of these issues by buying a
new 3DTV!
Troubleshooting the DirecTV 3D Set Top Box (likewise for Verizon, Cox etc.)
1. If you still do not get 3D from your STB proceed as follows. Check 1080p and set Native off.
Make sure you have followed the preceding instructions EXACTLY, that the HDMI 1.4
compliant cable is in input 3 if you have a Samsung 3D DLP TV, that the cable you got with the
3DA-1 is securely plugged into both the 3D Sync Out in the back of your TV and into the
Emitter IN in the 3DA-1. The 3DTV Corp Emitter and the 3D SYNC cable from your TV to the
3DA-1 always remain connected.
2. Reset your digital video recorder (DVR, i.e., your STB) and turn to channel 103 and you will
probably see an error message. Unplug power and both HDMI cables from the 2DA-1 and wait
a full minute.
3. Plug in the power and then the HDMI in to your 3DA-1 and wait another minutethen plug in
the HDMI out into HDMI input 3 and wait another minute.
4. Disconnect the HDMI out of the 3DA1 from the TV and then plug it into the Gefen HDMI input
and wait a minutethe green LED on the Gefen should be on.
5. Connect the HDMI out of the Gefen into HDMI input 3 on the Samsung or any HDMI input on
the Mitsubishi and in a short time you should see the 3D picture.
6. Your TV should already be in 3D mode adjusted with your TV remote but if not follow the
instructions to select correct input for 3D, turn on the 3D mode and select the correct polarity
for the right/left eyes. E.G., tools, and 3D On at top. As usual press the left button on the
remote to select Mode 1 or 2 while watching the 3D for optimal 3D (you may have to do this
every time you reenter 3D Mode). If you still see top/bottom or side by side images use the
Mode switch on the 3DA-1 to correct this. You may or may not have problems with your
digital audio system especially if you have an AVR and especially if it is not HDMI 1.4
compliant. This has NOTHING to do with the 3DTV Corp equipment!!

7. DO NOT EVER TURN OFF THE POWER ON THE 3DA-1 OR YOUR STB OR YOU MAY HAVE TO GO
BACK TO STEP 3 AND REPEAT!!

© 3DTV Corp 2010 Permission is granted to reprint provided credit is given and nothing is changed.
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post #377 of 679 Old 08-30-2010, 10:16 AM
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Wow. I think I'll save that post. Hopefully the next PS3 firmware update for 3D BD will be out soon (supposed to be Sept) and if it proves to work with our TV's (+adapter, etc. etc. ad nauseum) I'll be jumping on the bandwagon soon. Still waiting to hear from HDGuru about what the new low cost solution is...

Enjoying BF4 on the PS4, bugs and all.
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post #378 of 679 Old 08-30-2010, 02:09 PM
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Any progress on the EDID distribution via software?

It would be great to gather as many mits EDID's as possible for gefen testing. I am really hoping to find one that solves the reconnect issue.

I purchased a 1.4 pioneer 1020 avr, everything seems to work fine except the all too familiar hdmi cable disconnect reconnect issue during initial power up.

My setup is as follows d*/PS3 -> 1020AVR -> 3da-1 -> gefen -> 61a750.

Also, I am uncertain as to whether it was decided if the 838 clone made any difference with the 5.1 issues? This isn't a concern for me at this point, just curious.

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post #379 of 679 Old 08-30-2010, 09:32 PM
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Hi Kevin,
I'll check back with Gefen tomorrow. They were supposed to get back to me last week and I forgot, as my Sammy has been dark. Supposed to be fixed wed.
I downloaded the program they use, just need some details.
JIM
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post #380 of 679 Old 08-31-2010, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwitt View Post

Hi Kevin,
I'll check back with Gefen tomorrow. They were supposed to get back to me last week and I forgot, as my Sammy has been dark. Supposed to be fixed wed.
I downloaded the program they use, just need some details.
JIM

Jim, what program does Gefen use? Would it happen to be Powerstrip?

EJ
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post #381 of 679 Old 08-31-2010, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebat68 View Post

Yes, I renamed mine PC and no ghosting.

I was having some pretty severe ghosting with MVA, so I renamed HDMI3 from BluRay to PC. Ghosting completely went away.

In the owner's manual the labeling process seems to be for user recognition of which component is attached to which input, not that it would have any effect on the unit's performance. I guess it has something to do with the original PC/HDMI3 3D purpose, but in that area of connection instruction in the owners manual the labeling of HDMI3 doesn't appear to be mentioned. Weird.
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post #382 of 679 Old 08-31-2010, 09:53 AM
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Yeah, re: EDID software,
The program is "EDID Manager" by Extron. A tech sheet is here: http://www.extron.com/download/files...didmanager.pdf
The last paragraph of the .pdf is interesting to me, probably common knowledge to some of you tech guys
Download it and check out Help file, Operation, Detailed view.
It shows the hex decimal values on the left and explains each on the right. It examples the "manufacturer" info. Maybe a simple change there would make your Samsung appear as a Mit's... Also, maybe a change in the audio hex decimal area could spoof 5.1 or 7.1 instead of 2.1 so the AVR would pass surround.
I'm going to make a call now to Gefen and see if I can get more details about cloning with this tool. The following post is about a related sound issue.
JIM
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post #383 of 679 Old 08-31-2010, 10:12 AM
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Theory,
In an earlier post, an EDID editor was hooked up to the input of the 3da-1. It indicated only 2.1 audio. I was unable to learn if the 3da-1 was hooked up to a TV at the time and passing the TV's EDID. It would be informative if the 3da-1 had its EDID read out of the system and after a 1 minute power off.
Due to the prerequisite of hooking up the 3da-1 to the Mit's first to get the error message, and then the Gefen and then the Gefen to the TV. I speculate or wonder if the 3da-1 has some volatile memory that reads some info in a secondary EDID layer area or out of range of the CEA-681 Extension Data, not picked up by the Gefen.
This may explain having to do the strange reconnect, if the 3da-1 is shut down.
... Wished I had a computer with an HDMI input...
JIM
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post #384 of 679 Old 08-31-2010, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwitt View Post

Theory,
Due to the prerequisite of hooking up the 3da-1 to the Mit's first to get the error message, and then the Gefen and then the Gefen to the TV. I speculate or wonder if the 3da-1 has some volatile memory that reads some info in a secondary EDID layer area or out of range of the CEA-681 Extension Data, not picked up by the Gefen.
This may explain having to do the strange reconnect, if the 3da-1 is shut down.
... Wished I had a computer with an HDMI input...
JIM

I like your theory.

I have been able to simplify the power-on process by disconnecting the hdmi out from the gefen before I power-on. As long as the tv is off before you reconnect to the gefen, everything works fine.

This is the case with my AVR in the loop, I haven't tested without it, so this might work straight from D* to 3da-1 to gefen to tv as well. Might be worth a try.

During my tests, I thought maybe if the tv had zero power (unplugged or not in stand by) that I could power it all on and then turn the tv on last without disconnecting any hdmi cable. But even without power, the hdmi to the tv reacts the same resulting in the normal reconnect steps.

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post #385 of 679 Old 08-31-2010, 11:46 AM
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Kevin,
Very good info. I hope to be able to try it tomorrow. Just got off phone with Gefen. Post to follow.
JIM
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post #386 of 679 Old 08-31-2010, 12:06 PM
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OK... Using EDID Manager by Extron,
All you need is a computer with an HDMI or a DVI and a proper cable or converter to HDMI.
To capture clone from Gefen, use EDID Manager and open file.
If we know the hex decimal value for a Mit's, we may be able to upload our Samsung's EDID info into EDID Manager, change the two values to that of a Mit's and download to Gefen without ever cloning a Mit's.... In theory.
The EDID Manager saves the EDID file as a .bin file. So, someone who has cloned an 838 series or other with 5.1 sound, can email you the .bin file and you can save that file to your Gefen... The Gefen uses the .bin file directly.
If we compare the EDID from the input of the 3da-1 after the cable swaps, to the input of the cloned Gefen, maybe we can find out what the Gefen is missing and add it to the hex. decimal values of the Gefen, making it plug and play.
JIM
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post #387 of 679 Old 08-31-2010, 02:53 PM
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This is great news. If I had an hdmi connection on my computer, I would begin testing as soon as possible. I've seen some usb to hdmi converters out there, but they aren't cheap. The vga to hdmi aren't much better as far as price goes. I wonder if either of those solutions would work anway?

EDIT: just found a vga to dvi adapter, 6 bucks. would this work with a dvi to hdmi cable? I understand that the signal can't be converted, but will it pass the edid info?

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post #388 of 679 Old 08-31-2010, 05:36 PM
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Hey Jim, I just emailed you the Mits WD-73838 EDID I got from the EDID Manager. I hope it helps.
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post #389 of 679 Old 08-31-2010, 05:46 PM
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Hey Kevin, I just did a test of your method of just disconnecting the Gefen from the TV before turning on my PS3 and it works fine. I don't even have to turn the TV off before I turn on the PS3. All I need to do is put the TV on the correct HDMI output (#3), disconnect the Gefen from the TV, turn the PS3 on, wait a few seconds, then reconnect the Gefen and the sound problem is gone. Hopefully we are getting closer to figuring out how to avoid these cable disconnects.
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post #390 of 679 Old 08-31-2010, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_C_Rawls View Post

Hey Jim, I just emailed you the Mits WD-73838 EDID I got from the EDID Manager. I hope it helps.

Thanks Mr. Rawls,
Check it out when I get home tonight. Any problems with the EDID Manager?
JIM
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