The reason you need/want to buy the older one because there is a simple way to make them work with the Samsung. If you get a newer one you have to try to trick it into thinking it's talking to a Mitsubishi TV. There are a couple ways to do that. But since you're admittedly not that savvy in this area you want to steer clear of those methods. One involves hacking your Samsung and the other involves using a Gefen HDMI dongle which is a bit klugy.
The 3DC-1000 set you see that is being sold new, likely contains the latest firmware in the adapter so it's the same problem as above. It only works with a Mits TV and can't turn off the ID restriction.
So that basically leaves you with these options...
- buy the tru3D solution which is around 180 bucks. I think these are either the old 3da1's on which they've turned off EDID checking (likely) or they are the new 3dc-100S boxes which work with Samsungs (unlikely).
- try locating an older 3da1 and reset it yourself
- try buying a 3dc-100S directly from Mitsubishi. These are harder to come by. There is one distributor and they charge a LOT.
As for the glasses there are more options. You can go the emitter route or the ones that use the DLP-Link that's built into the Samsung. There are pros cons to each. I got mine off an eBay seller and they work great. But the glasses/emitter sets don't have to be purchased with the adapter in order to be compatible.
I bought my glasses/emitter from these guys:http://stores.ebay.com/3DTV-CORP/_i....d=p3286.c0.m57
I think I got a glass/emitter set, then bought additional glasses. The glasses aren't super sleek and cool looking, but they work well and aren't super expensive.