Mitsubishi 3D Checkerboard Converter + Gefen HDMI Detective = 3D on Samsung HL61A750 - Page 23 - AVS Forum
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Old 07-22-2011, 01:22 PM
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@ Geaux, what I do is use the toslink out to my avr receiver when playing 3D through the mits box with hdmi direct to the TV. That will give you 5.1 surround. When I am not watching a 3D movie or game, I unplug that hdmi cable (which I have labeled 3D) and plug in another that goes to the avr and reset the PS3 to output audio through hdmi for the full meal deal Use two separate hdmi inputs on the TV, one for 3D and one for regular hdmi non-3D (on my Sammy DLP it's hdmi 3 for 3D)[If you get a Harmony remote you can program one action for "watch movie" and another for "watch 3d"...] A slight pain, but then you can have it all - you just have to get off the couch!

ISF Calibrator
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Old 07-22-2011, 05:19 PM
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I too can and will vouch for GREAT Technical Assistance from TRU3D Co. They sure gave me ALL the help that I needed in setting up my Adapter etc.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:53 AM
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+1 for success here.

HLT5687S
3DA-1 manufactured in August 2010 (bought open box from vanns.com for $49)
PS3.
I did the reset on the IDA-1 with 3D button down, then power down also until exactly 1 blink happens (2 blinks and needs to unplug and restart).
detect display in PS3, find it is 3D capable, enter screen size and that's it.

Also note that if you have a computer/laptop with NVidia video card but cannot run the NVidia 3D SW (including control panel) because you do not have the IR adapter form NVidia (sold with glasses...), you can go around that by getting a simulated nvidia IR device made by some guys on a Russian site. (like for Device Simulator Framework and NVidia). So 3D that way is also doable.
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:16 AM
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Got the 1000 Oct.10 build date reset seemed ok, has double picture. Than got UC DLP link glasses and I'm not having any luck with it working, the screen turns red before any picture but there is no red tint when the picture comes on. It seemed to work for a brief second and than went out. Trying to figure out if I need ir emiter or if something else could be wrong. The room is pretty dark also!
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:29 AM
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You're manually turning on 3d mode on the Samsung, right?
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FronzDan View Post

You're manually turning on 3d mode on the Samsung, right?

Yes I am tried both mode 1 and 2
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Old 08-01-2011, 10:56 PM
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When you say you got the double picture do you mean you got side by side? Or are the images merged?
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:26 AM
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Got 3D on Directv just have to figure out how to start everything up, was losing 3D when I was changing channels yesterday I'll figure it out. Have to get a 3D disc to see if my oopo will work right also. Thanks
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:14 AM
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Quick Question, I should be receiveing my 3da1 Oct 2010 Manf Date, but will I need a special hdmi cable? how many will I need? I have an xbox 360(3d), Ps3(3d), and directv(3d). Will I need 1 for each box going into the adapter, and then 1 for the adapter going into tv?
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesmer View Post

Quick Question, I should be receiveing my 3da1 Oct 2010 Manf Date, but will I need a special hdmi cable? how many will I need? I have an xbox 360(3d), Ps3(3d), and directv(3d). Will I need 1 for each box going into the adapter, and then 1 for the adapter going into tv?

Hi. The 3da-1 only has one input and one output. If you want to use it with multiple sources, you can either manually plug in the souce you are using at the time or you can get a 3d capable switch. I'm personally using the Psyclone PSC47 4 port HDMI switch for my 3d inputs and it works great. I have my XboX360, PS3, PC, and PVR hooked up to it and it passes the signal to the 3da-1 nicely.

EJ
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:36 AM
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I also use a switch. And since I pass audio with optical, any hdmi switch worked. I picked up this one

http://www.meritline.com/hdmi-4-2-tr...--p-33295.aspx

It allows me to switch any of 4 sources into the 3DA-1 and on to the PC input of the TV....or switch any of those sources to another HDMI input on the TV, bypassing the 3DA-1.
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:53 AM
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OK, and before I pull the trigger on these glasses just wanted to make sure they worked. They seem to be very high quality and good looking glasses as well. Any experience with this company?

http://www.dimensionaloptics.com/Pro...000&p=A1S01242

They took them down from their site, but here is the Amazon link

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A29JDB041N6Y93

and link to their glasses

http://www.dimensionaloptics.com/Pro...000&p=A1S01239
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Old 09-21-2011, 01:59 PM
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Sorry about all these questions. I know that DLP Link glasses like the ultra clears dlp link, you do not need an emitter, like the ones I posted above, but as far as picture quality, what would look better/clearer 3d picture. It seems like a FAQ sheet of glasses I found somewhere earlier, made it sound like IR (NXGdr) was better for our tv's and provided better picture though.
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Old 09-21-2011, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FronzDan View Post

I also use a switch. And since I pass audio with optical, any hdmi switch worked. I picked up this one

http://www.meritline.com/hdmi-4-2-tr...--p-33295.aspx

It allows me to switch any of 4 sources into the 3DA-1 and on to the PC input of the TV....or switch any of those sources to another HDMI input on the TV, bypassing the 3DA-1.

I got the Psyclone because it has discrete optical audio inputs/output that I needed to send the video signal to the HDTV and the audio to my receiver. The switch works in lieu of an HDMI receiver.

EJ
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Old 09-23-2011, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geaux Tigers View Post

In order to use multiple 3D components you will either need an HDMI 1.4 AVR Receiver or an HDMI Switcher that is 3D compliant. Otherwise you will need to disconnect each piece of equipment every time you want to use a different 3D source. Additionally, you will need an XBOX 360 with an HDMI port if you want to use it with the 3DA-1.

so if my receiver is hdmi 1.3 and I get the 3d compliant hdmi switcher, I'm good...don't need a 1.4 reciever? correct?
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:49 PM
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Great Job!!
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Old 11-03-2011, 01:25 PM
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Anyone utilizing these new methods to get 3D and no longer need their Gefen device and wants to sell it PM me.
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Old 01-19-2012, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FronzDan View Post

I also use a switch. And since I pass audio with optical, any hdmi switch worked. I picked up this one

http://www.meritline.com/hdmi-4-2-tr...--p-33295.aspx

It allows me to switch any of 4 sources into the 3DA-1 and on to the PC input of the TV....or switch any of those sources to another HDMI input on the TV, bypassing the 3DA-1.

I think this may answer an open question I have in another thread. How does this switcher compare to this one offered by Monoprice? Anyone tried this one using the 3DA-1 (or equivalent)?
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by PlumB View Post
Hey guys,<br><br>
The problem with my tv was the lamp sync setting I changed in the service menu. The tech came out yestersay and was basically useless. He pulled the back panel off, looked at it for a few minutes, put it back on, removed the lamp, tried to turn it on, put the lamp back in, and called samsung. Samsung told him the only way to get the setting back was to replace the main board. He charged me $100 and told me it would cost another $280 to replace the board.<br><br>
After he left I ordered the board from samsungparts and started taking the old one out. When I pulled the old one out I saw a little black button in the middle of the board. Put it all back together and started playing with the button. After about 10 min it started up. It took me about a hour and a half to finally get back into the service menu but once I changed the lamp sync back to pulse all is fine. Think I'm going to call samsung and demand my $100 back for trying to sell me parts I don't need.<br><br>
The 3d works great! I can switch back and forth from ps3 to directv hr-21 by just switching the input cable on the 3da-1. I tried resetting the hr-21 and 3d was instantly available, no cable swaping or power cycling required. All of the directv 3d channels are white in the guide. I don't know if it's passing 5.1 audio because I don't have an hdmi receiver, but I do get 2.0 to the tv.<br><br>
If you have the directv set to output 720p and the tvs 3d mode is on, the picture only takes up half the screen. You just have to turn off 3d and it goes back to normal. The image is pretty dark in 3d but that may be the cheap glasses I have.<br><br>
A few setup notes:<br><br>
1. You do have to be in the service menu to update the edid. Enter the service menu and select edid. (use up and down to navigate the menu, not left and right) Select edid on/off. Press the right arrow to turn it on and you can now update the edid. After you update turn it back off and press power to get out of the service menu.<br><br>
2. Apparently all the trouble I was having with failed edid updates was due to my laptop. I put powerstrip on my old win98 pentium 3 and havent had any problems with it.<br><br>
3. I'm using the edid from the mits 65737 from the previous post. The pn50c700 edid was just for testing this method before I had the 3da-1, the 3da-1 won't work with that one.
I know this is an old post, but I am having trouble getting my Samsung tv to get out of the cycling on and off. I read your post, but have a question. You stated that after 90 minutes you got into the service menu. Can you explain the steps you took to get into the service menu again? Were you able to see the service menu after messing with the button behind the main board? Or did you have to continuously try to get to the service menu while it was turning on and off?

I hope you get this reply so I can get my tv to work again. I was stupid for fooling with the service menu, but you would think that there is a quick solution to get back to factory settings without replacing parts or entering the 182 code.

Thanks!
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