3D on Samsung 1080p DLP with Mitsubishi 3DA-1 and no Gefen - Page 37 - AVS Forum
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post #1081 of 1126 Old 08-13-2011, 11:51 AM
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Dual View is for gaming, so that each player (of 2) sees only their screen, and not their opponent's. It enables full screen gaming w/o screen cheating. It is not for 3D viewing.

Dual View on my TV is 3D Polarity configuration and the only way the glasses will turn on. This with the glasses having their own configuration is what is screwing with me.
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Polarity depends on the source material, and DLP-Link has been reported to sync opposite of IR.

Material in regards to side by side & top and bottom and so on, because all I've had is side by side material.
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post #1082 of 1126 Old 01-01-2012, 12:06 PM
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i cannot for the life of me get this to work. i've read through this thread and done the following but my 3DA-1 will not power on at all. it hasnt powered on since i got it and i cannot get it to, its brand new and man dat is march 2011.

- HL67A750 67"
- Using xbox 360 blackops 3d to test
- 3DA-1 hooked to HDMI 3
- HDMI 3 renamed to PC
- Set 3D Mode on TV to Mode 1 and 2 (tried both)
- Updated the EDID and Extension block with the one posted in this thread for my tv.

the 3DA-1 will not power up at all. tried espn 3d too.
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post #1083 of 1126 Old 01-01-2012, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by alkaholik View Post

i cannot for the life of me get this to work. i've read through this thread and done the following but my 3DA-1 will not power on at all. it hasnt powered on since i got it and i cannot get it to, its brand new and man dat is march 2011.

- HL67A750 67"
- Using xbox 360 blackops 3d to test
- 3DA-1 hooked to HDMI 3
- HDMI 3 renamed to PC
- Set 3D Mode on TV to Mode 1 and 2 (tried both)
- Updated the EDID and Extension block with the one posted in this thread for my tv.

the 3DA-1 will not power up at all. tried espn 3d too.

Hi. I don't know if the March 2011 build dates can be used with Samsungs. I have an earlier build date of July 2010 and I could reset it for use with my Sammy HL-T5076S. Also, I don't know if the Mits adapter works with the A750's but make sure you have the the XboX 360 HDMI cable going to the input of the adapter and output HDMI cable from adapter going to your HDMI/DVI input of your set. I know the adapter will only power up if there is a valid HDMI signal going to it's input.

Hope that helps,

EJ
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post #1084 of 1126 Old 01-01-2012, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by EmerJency View Post

Hi. I don't know if the March 2011 build dates can be used with Samsungs. I have an earlier build date of July 2010 and I could reset it for use with my Sammy HL-T5076S. Also, I don't know if the Mits adapter works with the A750's but make sure you have the the XboX 360 HDMI cable going to the input of the adapter and output HDMI cable from adapter going to your HDMI/DVI input of your set. I know the adapter will only power up if there is a valid HDMI signal going to it's input.

Hope that helps,

EJ

Thanks EJ, yea i have the xbox hdmi going to the unit and then another cable going from the unit to hdmi 3(pc) to the tv. i even have 3d set on the xbox game. blackops
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post #1085 of 1126 Old 01-01-2012, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by alkaholik View Post

Thanks EJ, yea i have the xbox hdmi going to the unit and then another cable going from the unit to hdmi 3(pc) to the tv. i even have 3d set on the xbox game. blackops

If you're sure the input/output on the adapter are correct, then maybe the March 2011 adapters can't be reset for Sammy's or these Mits adapters are no good for A750's. I seem to remember reading somewhere on this forum that the newer build dates can't be reset. Either way you may have to return it for a 2010 build date if you can or find a used one on ebay with a 2010 build date and sell yours. That's if you can still find one built prior to 2011. I forgot to mention that using this adapter for 3d you would not have to modify your EDID as the adapter spoofs your EDID and adds the appropriate parameters when you input a 3d signal to it.

Good Luck,

EJ
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post #1086 of 1126 Old 01-01-2012, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by alkaholik View Post

i cannot for the life of me get this to work. i've read through this thread and done the following but my 3DA-1 will not power on at all. it hasnt powered on since i got it and i cannot get it to, its brand new and man dat is march 2011.

- HL67A750 67"
- Using xbox 360 blackops 3d to test
- 3DA-1 hooked to HDMI 3
- HDMI 3 renamed to PC
- Set 3D Mode on TV to Mode 1 and 2 (tried both)
- Updated the EDID and Extension block with the one posted in this thread for my tv.

the 3DA-1 will not power up at all. tried espn 3d too.

The 3DA-1 doesn't power up at all, or will it just not switch to 3D mode? Is either one of the lights on? My 3DA-1 will not pass a signal at all if it is turned off, and my A650 will not even give me the option to turn on 3D mode unless there is a 1080p signal coming to it. So I'm wondering if you're getting any signal at all to go through the 3DA-1?
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post #1087 of 1126 Old 01-01-2012, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by PlumB View Post

The 3DA-1 doesn't power up at all, or will it just not switch to 3D mode? Is either one of the lights on? My 3DA-1 will not pass a signal at all if it is turned off, and my A650 will not even give me the option to turn on 3D mode unless there is a 1080p signal coming to it. So I'm wondering if you're getting any signal at all to go through the 3DA-1?

it does not power on at all. no lights or anything. i know there is signal to it as the light on my glasses emitter has a light on it from the 3DA-1, but neither lights are on the 3DA-1.

My xbox is set for 1080p and tv is in 3d mode 1(tried both) and the game is set for 3d.

could it be my hdmi cords? i use rocketfish, this is the only thing i could possibly think of.
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post #1088 of 1126 Old 01-01-2012, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by alkaholik View Post

it does not power on at all. no lights or anything. i know there is signal to it as the light on my glasses emitter has a light on it from the 3DA-1, but neither lights are on the 3DA-1.

My xbox is set for 1080p and tv is in 3d mode 1(tried both) and the game is set for 3d.

could it be my hdmi cords? i use rocketfish, this is the only thing i could possibly think of.

So are you able to see normal 2D video on the TV with the 3DA-1 connected, or are you setting the TV to 3D mode and then connecting the 3DA-1? My 3DA-1 will not pass any video at all if it is not plugged in and powered up, the TV says "no signal" on the screen but the emitter will still light up if the TV is already in 3D mode.
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post #1089 of 1126 Old 01-02-2012, 07:13 AM
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Hey new here. One question does anyone know of a free program to edit EDID on my samsung HL-T6187S that works like the powerstrip one?
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post #1090 of 1126 Old 01-02-2012, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by PlumB View Post

So are you able to see normal 2D video on the TV with the 3DA-1 connected, or are you setting the TV to 3D mode and then connecting the 3DA-1? My 3DA-1 will not pass any video at all if it is not plugged in and powered up, the TV says "no signal" on the screen but the emitter will still light up if the TV is already in 3D mode.

no, i have yet to view any video feed at all on my tv through the 3da-1. I tried with my avr and my xbox 360, i've spent a good 3-4 hours doing everything in this thread andd reading the posts and swaping cables and options around, but the device 3da-1 has yet to turn on or display lights or display any video feed.

The EDID's were updated with both the original ones and updated ones.
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post #1091 of 1126 Old 01-02-2012, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 3D_Shinobi View Post

Hey new here. One question does anyone know of a free program to edit EDID on my samsung HL-T6187S that works like the powerstrip one?

If you're familiar with linux there are some utilities I was using for a while before everyone lost interest in updating the EDID. I mentioned them in a previous post. I'll try to find it but now I need to watch the Badgers kick some Oregon ass!! I don't know of any free windows versions though.

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Originally Posted by alkaholik View Post

no, i have yet to view any video feed at all on my tv through the 3da-1.

OK I was confused about that. Sounds like maybe you have a defective 3DA-1 or power supply. The power supply is 5 volts so if you have any other 5 volt power cords with the same plug you could try that. The 3DA-1 wont turn on unless there is an input connected to it. I think there is a dedicated wire in the HDMI cable to signal that connection, so it could be a bad cable or someting wrong with the source device, but not very likely. The EDID wont prevent the 3DA-1 from turning on, it will only prevent it from going into 3D mode. You might need to return the 3DA-1 if there's no problem with the power supply. Also just double check that the xbox is connected to the 3DA-1 input and the TV to it's output. Easy to mix them up and it wont turn on if they are.
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post #1092 of 1126 Old 01-02-2012, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by PlumB View Post

OK I was confused about that. Sounds like maybe you have a defective 3DA-1 or power supply. The power supply is 5 volts so if you have any other 5 volt power cords with the same plug you could try that. The 3DA-1 wont turn on unless there is an input connected to it. I think there is a dedicated wire in the HDMI cable to signal that connection, so it could be a bad cable or someting wrong with the source device, but not very likely. The EDID wont prevent the 3DA-1 from turning on, it will only prevent it from going into 3D mode. You might need to return the 3DA-1 if there's no problem with the power supply. Also just double check that the xbox is connected to the 3DA-1 input and the TV to it's output. Easy to mix them up and it wont turn on if they are.

thanks plum, i am going to return it and of course amazon is now out of them, which would you reccomend, the 3da-1 or the 3dc-1000?
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post #1093 of 1126 Old 01-03-2012, 03:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by alkaholik View Post

thanks plum, i am going to return it and of course amazon is now out of them, which would you reccomend, the 3da-1 or the 3dc-1000?

Well that depends on your choice of glasses. The 3DC-1000 is just a bundle that includes the 3DA-1 along with 2 pairs of glasses and an emitter. There is also a 3DC-100S bundle which is the same as the 3DC-1000 but comes with a Samsung compatible adaptor. The older 3DA-1s can be reset to work with Samsung DLPs without the EDID mod. There's a thread in here somewhere about the reset and build dates it worked on.
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post #1094 of 1126 Old 01-03-2012, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by PlumB View Post

Well that depends on your choice of glasses. The 3DC-1000 is just a bundle that includes the 3DA-1 along with 2 pairs of glasses and an emitter. There is also a 3DC-100S bundle which is the same as the 3DC-1000 but comes with a Samsung compatible adaptor. The older 3DA-1s can be reset to work with Samsung DLPs without the EDID mod. There's a thread in here somewhere about the reset and build dates it worked on.


ok so i just need another 3da-1. thanks
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post #1095 of 1126 Old 01-04-2012, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by PlumB View Post

Well that depends on your choice of glasses. The 3DC-1000 is just a bundle that includes the 3DA-1 along with 2 pairs of glasses and an emitter. There is also a 3DC-100S bundle which is the same as the 3DC-1000 but comes with a Samsung compatible adaptor. The older 3DA-1s can be reset to work with Samsung DLPs without the EDID mod. There's a thread in here somewhere about the reset and build dates it worked on.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post20582533
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post #1096 of 1126 Old 01-05-2012, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by PlumB View Post

If you're familiar with linux there are some utilities I was using for a while before everyone lost interest in updating the EDID. I mentioned them in a previous post. I'll try to find it but now I need to watch the Badgers kick some Oregon ass!! I don't know of any free windows versions though.

I can learn. Would it be too much trouble to post a video on youtube? Aslo I was wondering if it was possible to change the EDID using the service usb port on the tv.
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post #1097 of 1126 Old 01-05-2012, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 3D_Shinobi View Post

I can learn. Would it be too much trouble to post a video on youtube? Aslo I was wondering if it was possible to change the EDID using the service usb port on the tv.

The only way I know of to change the EDID is to write to the HDMI port itself. The A650/750 models can be returned to the stock EDID in the service menu, but I don't think the older models can be.

Linux is a complete operating system that would need to be installed on an old pc or an available hd partition. It's really not something I can walk you through. You would probably be better off just paying the powerstrip license or trying to find an old 3DA-1 that can be reset.
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post #1098 of 1126 Old 01-06-2012, 10:22 AM
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I have linux dual booting on my computer. what are the programs I can use to change the EDID?
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post #1099 of 1126 Old 01-06-2012, 03:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 3D_Shinobi View Post

I have linux dual booting on my computer. what are the programs I can use to change the EDID?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post19872574

There ya go. I haven't played with it since last year so my memory is a little fuzzy. But check out those links and let me know if you have any questions. I'll try to help if I can.
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post #1100 of 1126 Old 01-08-2012, 12:19 PM
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Thanks PlumB I'll see how it works once I get my 3DC-1000 kit.
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post #1101 of 1126 Old 01-18-2012, 10:30 AM
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Have a Tru3D 3D TV Adapter KIT for Samsung 3D DLP HDTV on the way. I have a DirecTV HR22/100 DVR and a PS3 as the main 3D sources.

I currently have each of these connected via HDMI to my Sony STR-DG820 AVR then HDMI out to HDMI1 on my Samsung HL61A750. All works perfectly for 2D.

My goal is to get the best audio quality possible with my current set up while viewing 3D. I am wondering if the Monoprice 4X2 Matrix switcher (model #6415) will be the solution -see diagram attached for how it will be connected.

I realize the PS3 is going to be limited to at most 5.1 surround while viewing 3D content. Will it be reduced to 2.0 with the introduction of this switch?

Is where I have the switch going to introduce problems when trying to get the 3D signal to the TV (that is the adapter is unable to detect 3D content from the source)?

 

HomeTheater Set up.pdf 101.201171875k . file
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post #1102 of 1126 Old 01-28-2012, 11:04 AM
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Anyone know what the difference is between mode 1 and mode 2 on an HL61A650 bulb set (2008)? My IR sammy glasses look better in Mode 1, UC glasses mode 2. They both work either way just not as good.
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post #1103 of 1126 Old 01-28-2012, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone know what the difference is between mode 1 and mode 2 on an HL61A650 bulb set (2008)? My IR sammy glasses look better in Mode 1, UC glasses mode 2. They both work either way just not as good.

That mode just changes which frame (left or right) the glasses sync on. Unfortunately different glasses will sync on different eyes. So when one set of glasses looks right the other set might be reversed. Some glasses have a switch that will reverse them. Otherwise your only option is to get matching sets of glasses, or wear one pair upside down.
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post #1104 of 1126 Old 02-03-2012, 10:00 AM
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Thanks to the wonderful work started by PlumB, I followed this thread from its inception. I tried the different methods of checking my videocards to see if they would read the advanced timings with 3 different laptops and my personal desktop, and all had issues. When my company upgraded my workstation at home, I tried my old Windows XP with a PCI Radeon HD 2400 Pro (the card was used to support monitors 2 and 3). Thanks to the detailed instructions in the first post and tips along the way, I was able to flash my EDID on HDMI3 of my HL67A750 with no issue using a DVI to HDMI adapter on the card.

Because the flash was successful, I purchased a new 3DC-1000 on the 1st. (I purchased it from the seller that is currently listed on amazon.com. They are a local store to me, authorized delaer of many brands, and used them to purchase my speaker upgrades. I try to use them whenever I can because of their great service). When I called their store, the person that has helped me plenty of times told me he couldn't guarantee that the new builds would work with what I did, but I figured I'd still risk the cost of gas to try. After I purchased it and brought it home, I opened the box to see a build date of Sep 2011. I was a little concerned that Mits might have updated the box to look for something else in the EDID, but after I hooked it up, I was watching the 3D demo disk that came with the starter pack through the PS3.

I still have work to do for the final install (Plan on hooking it up to HDMI 2 Out from my Denon AVR4311CI to HDMI 3 on the tv and leaving HDMI 1 Out from the AVR straight to HDMI 1 on the TV due to the limited picture adjustments in 3d). I already setup new Harmony activities specifically for 3d XBOX, 3D PS3, and 3D DishNetwork using the dual HDMI outs of the AVR. This way, I'll be able to have a great picture for 2D but still be able to watch 3D without losing the 2D and non-PC adjustments.

Couple things I noticed: 1. The red tint is horrible out of the box with the A750 (I had read this through the diffenrent threads, but hoped I wouldn't notice too bad). I ended up putting 3D mode as dynamic picture setting and raising the brightness to get rid of most of the red tint. Still visible in some scenes, but not nearly as noticeable when I first tried it. Still need to do a full calibration after entering the Service Menu 2. This does not work very well at all if you do not name the input PC. I don't know how anyone can say they have great 3D if it is not named PC. I tried naming it Blu-ray and Digital Media Adapter and there was no depth to the picture, but there was a lot of eye strain (actually gave me a headache at one point).

In closing, I just want to say thanks again to those that took the time to figure it out for the rest of us willing to brick an input. Even though this method is no longer necessary to achieve 3D on the set without the Geffen device, it is still the most cost effective method considering the price from the only source of the 3DC-100S versus the multiple sellers of the 3DC-1000. I also wanted to let people know that if they put off waiting to do this (like I did), the new builds of the 3DA-1 will work (Sep 2011 confirmed).

p.s. My wife is a huge Disney fan, so I used that to my advantage in buying the starter kit. Showed her the starter kit had disney stuff, and she was excited to see what it had. She loved the old disney short with Donald Duck, thought the "heart and peanut effects were cool", but of all the demo material on the disk, I thought it was what most reminded me of looking through a viewmaster as a kid. So far, the best 3D I've seen is the motorstorm demo on the PS3, but we're going to buy a couple of 3D Blu-rays this weekend to try out. I'm sure The Lion King 3D will be on that shopping list as it was a favorite of both of ours growing up

Xbox Live: Nt1chr1st
PS3: Nt1chr1st
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post #1105 of 1126 Old 02-04-2012, 10:00 AM
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You can't brick the input since your model Samsung (and I believe other models as well) has the ability to reset the input EDID back to the factory setting.
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post #1106 of 1126 Old 02-18-2012, 09:40 AM
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I just purchased a used July 2010 3DA-1 kit for my HL-T5087SAX and unpacked it. Naturally, it turns out that it didn't include the 3-pin VESA cable. Anybody know where I can pick one up?

Also, I've noticed a lot of people mention the red tint which is caused by the DLP-link. I have no 3D glasses yet. Would I be better off purchasing an external 3D emitter and compatible glasses to completely avoid the tint issue?
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post #1107 of 1126 Old 02-18-2012, 11:12 AM
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You don't need the VESA cable, just plug the emitter directly into the TV.
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post #1108 of 1126 Old 02-18-2012, 07:14 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'm still reading through this thread to get a grasp on it all.
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post #1109 of 1126 Old 03-02-2012, 11:37 AM
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Just throwin our 3D general guide out to everyone, as I included some of my DLP/Mitsubishi 3DA-1 experiences in the article, some of which were the direct result of this great thread. Some just getting into this may find it useful, particularly those with a DLP Samsung or Mits, like my setup.

Tech, the Universe, and Everything:  http://tech-stew.com

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post #1110 of 1126 Old 03-02-2012, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

Just throwin our 3D general guide out to everyone, as I included some of my DLP/Mitsubishi 3DA-1 experiences in the article, some of which were the direct result of this great thread. Some just getting into this may find it useful, particularly those with a DLP Samsung or Mits, like my setup.

Nice job! Thanks!!
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