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post #91 of 309 Old 01-15-2011, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

I assume you would just replace the material and keep your frame? If so, have you got a quote yet for the 5d material?

I will probably order a sample this coming week which I should not be doing.........I just bought a new screen! I guess its the hobbyist in me that is more curious than anything and I am betting this will be a great screen!

I was considering just replacing the material but it might be easier to sell my ST130 complete and reinvest in the complete screen and frame. It would end up the same out of pocket I bet. I do have pricing.

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post #92 of 309 Old 01-15-2011, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by lincoln_husker View Post

i actually thought about the 5D but being around $1000 more, didn't really consider it because of the 'tried and true' ST130 and FH options. i have read that the 5D isn't the greatest for 2D so im thinkin the 130 is the way to go. maybe i should get a sample....

I have not read any reviews so I would be interested in where you heard this? I have a 5D sample and currently have the older ST130 but no projector yet to compare them with.
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post #93 of 309 Old 01-16-2011, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeHolland View Post

I have not read any reviews so I would be interested in where you heard this? I have a 5D sample and currently have the older ST130 but no projector yet to compare them with.

not sure where i read this but i did somewhere...
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post #94 of 309 Old 01-16-2011, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lincoln_husker View Post

not sure where i read this but i did somewhere...


One thing that does concern me with any high gain AR material is hot spotting.........I am very curious to hear how this 5d does as far as this goes.

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post #95 of 309 Old 01-16-2011, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

One thing that does concern me with any high gain AR material is hot spotting.........I am very curious to hear how this 5d does as far as this goes.

i was thinking the same thing. looking forward to a reputable review
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post #96 of 309 Old 01-16-2011, 01:25 PM
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Hi, originally placed this post in the “Official JVC RS40 thread” but didn’t get any feedback. Hope to have better luck here.
I’m purchasing a JCV RS40 projector and a 90” fixed Stewart screen for 2D/3D viewing.
Screen size: 90”diagonal
Ceiling mounted projector at 20” above center of screen
Throw distance: 2.8 m – 3m (9,18’ – 9.84’) at most.
minimum/ max viewing distance: 3.2 m – 5 m.
Non-dedicated room has light-colored walls and floor with fairly good light control with black out drapes.
Initially, I had considered a ceiling-mounted RS250/Sony HW20 projectors for 2D viewing only.
For this room set up and said projectors, Stewart screen people recommended a 90” luxus deluxus with Firehawk G3 material, but on second thoughts they recommended Greyhawk RS material to avoid possible hotspotting due to the short throw.
Now, as RS250 is on backorder, I decided to go with RS40 to enjoy 3D viewing.
My concern is if Greyhawk RS material would give a good 3D performance for that screen size
I haven’t yet got back to Stewart regarding 3D application.
Glad to hear comments/recommendations , thanks in advance,
Jose
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post #97 of 309 Old 01-17-2011, 12:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josesol View Post
Hi, originally placed this post in the Official JVC RS40 thread but didn't get any feedback. Hope to have better luck here.
I'm purchasing a JCV RS40 projector and a 90 fixed Stewart screen for 2D/3D viewing.
Screen size: 90diagonal
Ceiling mounted projector at 20 above center of screen
Throw distance: 2.8 m - 3m (9,18' - 9.84') at most.
minimum/ max viewing distance: 3.2 m - 5 m.
Non-dedicated room has light-colored walls and floor with fairly good light control with black out drapes.
Initially, I had considered a ceiling-mounted RS250/Sony HW20 projectors for 2D viewing only.
For this room set up and said projectors, Stewart screen people recommended a 90 luxus deluxus with Firehawk G3 material, but on second thoughts they recommended Greyhawk RS material to avoid possible hotspotting due to the short throw.
Now, as RS250 is on backorder, I decided to go with RS40 to enjoy 3D viewing.
My concern is if Greyhawk RS material would give a good 3D performance for that screen size
I haven't yet got back to Stewart regarding 3D application.
Glad to hear comments/recommendations , thanks in advance,
Jose
Perhaps the lack of a response to your post is due to a lack of first hand experience by AVS Forum members that are following this thread with the Greyhawk RS screen material (sorry but I have very little experience with Stewart screens). In general I'm not a big fan of grey screens and for use with a new ceiling mounted JVC RS40 projector I would go with a white screen with a gain in the range of 1.3. If that screen retains some significant amount of the polarization of the projected light (such as the Stewart Studiotek 1.3) then for 3D viewing, while using the JVC 3D shutter glasses, you will get an extra boost in image brightness.

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post #98 of 309 Old 01-17-2011, 01:06 PM
 
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What about using the different kinds of diy paints like black widow , scorpion N8 , silver fire , silver fusion , and the online paint supplier paint on screen 3D HD paint ? A lot of these diy paints have silver and metallic metal in them . I don't know what the gain is for the diy screens but they should have some polarization to them because of the silver and metallic paint.
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post #99 of 309 Old 01-19-2011, 12:02 AM
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I'm planing to buy my first projector real soon and I think that RS40 is gonna be the one to buy.
My Home Theater room is quite small (3.2m. wide x 3.6m. long 2.2m. height) but it's gonna have dark color walls and curtains and will also be very little to none ambient light in the room.
The RS40 is gonna be ceiling mount about 1.8m. from the floor with about 3.3m. throwing distance and the seating distance is about 3.3m. also.
So, can you guys recommend which screen works best with the RS40 both in 2D as well as 3D?
Would it be too big if I get a 110" screen with seating distance of about 3.3-3.4m.? and would the RS40 be able to project the picture at this throwing distance?

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post #100 of 309 Old 01-19-2011, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knot_m3 View Post

I'm planing to buy my first projector real soon and I think that RS40 is gonna be the one to buy.
My Home Theater room is quite small (3.2m. wide x 3.6m. long 2.2m. height) but it's gonna have dark color walls and curtains and will also be very little to none ambient light in the room.
The RS40 is gonna be ceiling mount about 1.8m. from the floor with about 3.3m. throwing distance and the seating distance is about 3.3m. also.
So, can you guys recommend which screen works best with the RS40 both in 2D as well as 3D?
Would it be too big if I get a 110" screen with seating distance of about 3.3-3.4m.? and would the RS40 be able to project the picture at this throwing distance?

JVC lists 3.3m as the minimum throw distance for a 110" screen. Remember this is from the front of the lens to the screen and not to the center of the projector. If your room is exactly 3.6m long then you will not quite have a 3.3m throw distance. You will actually have only 3.0m at most for the throw distance since the projector itself is almost 0.5m long plus you to need to allow a little space for the cables connecting on the rear panel. So with a 3.0 meter throw your very maximum screen size is around 100" and perhaps you should keep it just a little smaller just in case the minimum throw distance that JVC lists in their user manual is slightly off. As for the type of screen, with that size most any screen with a gain of 1.0 or higher will give you an adequately bright 2D picture. However, for 3D you may want to use a screen with significant gain such as a Da-Lite screen using their High Power fabric or alternatively select a screen with a gain in the range of 1.3 to 1.5 that maintains a significant amount of polarization (see the list in Post #1 of this thread for a screen with a polarizaton rating of 3 or 4 in order to get the maximum benefit for 3D viewing).

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post #101 of 309 Old 01-20-2011, 01:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post

JVC lists 3.3m as the minimum throw distance for a 110" screen. Remember this is from the front of the lens to the screen and not to the center of the projector. If your room is exactly 3.6m long then you will not quite have a 3.3m throw distance. You will actually have only 3.0m at most for the throw distance since the projector itself is almost 0.5m long plus you to need to allow a little space for the cables connecting on the rear panel. So with a 3.0 meter throw your very maximum screen size is around 100" and perhaps you should keep it just a little smaller just in case the minimum throw distance that JVC lists in their user manual is slightly off. As for the type of screen, with that size most any screen with a gain of 1.0 or higher will give you an adequately bright 2D picture. However, for 3D you may want to use a screen with significant gain such as a Da-Lite screen using their High Power fabric or alternatively select a screen with a gain in the range of 1.3 to 1.5 that maintains a significant amount of polarization (see the list in Post #1 of this thread for a screen with a polarizaton rating of 3 or 4 in order to get the maximum benefit for 3D viewing).

Actually my room has a big column in the front left, as the pic below, so if I want to use big screen like 110" i have to place it in front of the column (where the blue line is). If I use smaller screen like 92"-100" then I can place beside the column (where the green line is) but it wouldn't be in the center of the room.

The distance between the projector hanger and the blue line is 3.4m., and if I understand correctly the projector hanger should place about the middle of the RS40 so, the distance between the front of the lens to the screen should be about 3.15-3.2m. right? with this throwing distance would 106" screen work? or should I move the screen to the side of the column for extra throwing distance although the screen would be way off center?

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post #102 of 309 Old 01-20-2011, 04:22 PM
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How good is the Draper M2500 material at retaining polarization?
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post #103 of 309 Old 01-20-2011, 05:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knot_m3 View Post

Actually my room has a big column in the front left, as the pic below, so if I want to use big screen like 110" i have to place it in front of the column (where the blue line is). If I use smaller screen like 92"-100" then I can place beside the column (where the green line is) but it wouldn't be in the center of the room.

The distance between the projector hanger and the blue line is 3.4m., and if I understand correctly the projector hanger should place about the middle of the RS40 so, the distance between the front of the lens to the screen should be about 3.15-3.2m. right? with this throwing distance would 106" screen work? or should I move the screen to the side of the column for extra throwing distance although the screen would be way off center?

Are you talking about the screen size as the diagonal measure or the screen width (it appears from your drawing you are talking about width)? When I said that a 110 inch screen required a 3.3m throw distance I was talking the diagonal size of the screen and not the width. A 110 inch diagonal 16x9 apect ratio screen is 2.4m wide while a 100 inch diagonal screen is 2.2m wide. The JVC manual lists for a 100 inch diagonal screen an "approximate" minimum projection distance of 3.01m and for a 110 inch diagonal screen an "approximate" minimum projecton distance of 3.31m. For screen sizes in between the "approximate" minimum projection distance will be directly proportional. So for each additional inch of screen size above 100 inch diagonal just add 3cm to the minimum projection distance. Thus for a 106 inch screen it would be 3.01m + (6 x 0.03) = 3.19m. Also remember these are only listed as approximate minimum projection distances and due to manufacturing tolerances of the zoom lens used on the projector the actual minimum projection distance may be a little more or a little less. Also if you really have 3.6m from just in front of the post to the back wall then you need to allow 0.5m for the projector which would give you a throw distance of only 3.1m (and not the 3.15 to 3.2m you indicate). Also depending on the type of screen you are using it may stick out in front of the post a little thus taking a little more away from your throw distance. So it appears to me you will probably only have enough throw distance to support use of screen about 2.2m wide (or 100 inches diagonal).

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post #104 of 309 Old 01-20-2011, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post

Are you talking about the screen size as the diagonal measure or the screen width (it appears from your drawing you are talking about width)?
Yes, I'm talking about the screen size as the diagonal measure. I'm sorry if my english make you confuse. I was just trying to expain that if I place the screen beside the column I would have more throwing distance but there's a limited space and also the screen wouldn't be in the center of the room that's all.

When I said that a 110 inch screen required a 3.3m throw distance I was talking the diagonal size of the screen and not the width. A 110 inch diagonal 16x9 apect ratio screen is 2.4m wide while a 100 inch diagonal screen is 2.2m wide. The JVC manual lists for a 100 inch diagonal screen an "approximate" minimum projection distance of 3.01m and for a 110 inch diagonal screen an "approximate" minimum projecton distance of 3.31m. For screen sizes in between the "approximate" minimum projection distance will be directly proportional. So for each additional inch of screen size above 100 inch diagonal just add 3cm to the minimum projection distance. Thus for a 106 inch screen it would be 3.01m + (6 x 0.03) = 3.19m. Also remember these are only listed as approximate minimum projection distances and due to manufacturing tolerances of the zoom lens used on the projector the actual minimum projection distance may be a little more or a little less. Also if you really have 3.6m from just in front of the post to the back wall then you need to allow 0.5m for the projector which would give you a throw distance of only 3.1m (and not the 3.15 to 3.2m you indicate). Also depending on the type of screen you are using it may stick out in front of the post a little thus taking a little more away from your throw distance. So it appears to me you will probably only have enough throw distance to support use of screen about 2.2m wide (or 100 inches diagonal).

I know this would sounds odd but last night I try to mesure the distance between the projector hanger to the glass door behind and it has a 60cm. gap. And my construction guy just told me that the projector hanger can not be move forward or backward because there's no place for the hanger to hold on under the ceiling. Unless, there is an extension arm that can use to extend the projector to the back.
So, I guess using 110" screen is out of the question. I might end up with 100" or 106" screen instead.


Thank you for your info. Ron

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post #105 of 309 Old 01-21-2011, 10:39 PM
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Excellent information. I appreciate the work put into this thread (along with many other threads too). I'm new to the whole projector/screen set up, and every time I turn around, there is another twist to consider (like this polarization). I would like opinions on my set up, since I would like to make the best choice for my screen (I need to get it ordered soon) so I won't have to consider another screen later (won't be able to afford it). Here is my set up.

Room is 15' x 49' x 111" high

Projector on order is the JVC rs40.

I would like a 2.40 or 2.35 to 1 screen 133 diagonal (122.8 x 51.2 not including edging) and it must be motorized to cover a 60" LCD TV I use for day viewing.

Screen will go on 15' wide wall.

Projector lens will be app. 16' back from wall/screen.

Seating is also app. 16' back from screen for main seats with eye level app. 39 off floor. That is about 28.6" below middle of 133" diag. 2.40:1.

Second seating is not really as important, but will be app. 20 ½ feet back on bar stools with eye level app. 61 off floor. (used basically for football games to accommodate more people.

Middle of screen (for the 133 diagonal 2.40:1) will be app. 67.6 off floor. Bottom of screen being app. 42 off floor with top at 91.2 off floor.

Projector lens center will preferably be 95 off floor although I can drop it to app. 86 off floor if it will improve the performance. So either 27.4" above center of screen or 18.4" above.

Since the projector is 3D capable, I would like to consider the screen to work with 3D with the above conditions.

The Projector will be used primarily at night so I will have control over the lighting, so day use will be minimal if even usable since there are windows without darkening capability, hence the 60" LCD.

Thanks for any advice on the best motorized screen.
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post #106 of 309 Old 01-22-2011, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falcon2000ex View Post

Excellent information. I appreciate the work put into this thread (along with many other threads too). I'm new to the whole projector/screen set up, and every time I turn around, there is another twist to consider (like this polarization). I would like opinions on my set up, since I would like to make the best choice for my screen (I need to get it ordered soon) so I won't have to consider another screen later (won't be able to afford it). Here is my set up.

Room is 15’ x 49’ x 111" high

Projector on order is the JVC rs40.

I would like a 2.40 or 2.35 to 1 screen 133” diagonal (122.8 x 51.2 not including edging) and it must be motorized to cover a 60" LCD TV I use for day viewing.

Screen will go on 15’ wide wall.

Projector lens will be app. 16’ back from wall/screen.

Seating is also app. 16’ back from screen for main seats with eye level app. 39” off floor. That is about 28.6" below middle of 133" diag. 2.40:1.

Second seating is not really as important, but will be app. 20 ½ feet back on bar stools with eye level app. 61” off floor. (used basically for football games to accommodate more people.

Middle of screen (for the 133” diagonal 2.40:1) will be app. 67.6” off floor. Bottom of screen being app. 42” off floor with top at 91.2” off floor.

Projector lens center will preferably be 95” off floor although I can drop it to app. 86” off floor if it will improve the performance. So either 27.4" above center of screen or 18.4" above.

Since the projector is 3D capable, I would like to consider the screen to work with 3D with the above conditions.

The Projector will be used primarily at night so I will have control over the lighting, so day use will be minimal if even usable since there are windows without darkening capability, hence the 60" LCD.

Thanks for any advice on the best motorized screen.

Since you want to mount the projector approx. 8 ft. above floor level that means you will want an angular reflective screen material (and not a retro-reflecive matial such as the Da-Lite High Power).

What price range are you looking for. In general there are really cheap non-tensioned electric screens coming from China, mid-priced tab-tensioned screens from China or US made non-tensioned models, or high price US made tab-tensioned electric screens. The tab-tensioned screens keep the screen flat with no, or minimal, waves in the fabric while most non-tensioned electric screens will develop waves and/or edge curling after some time. I would note that most of the lower price electric models are not available in 2.40 : 1 aspect ratio. Therefore you may want to start off my checking the manufacturers web sites to see which companies actually make a 2:40 : 1 (or 2.35 : 1) electrics. Links for serveral of the screen manufacturers are in Post #1 of this thread.

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post #107 of 309 Old 01-22-2011, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post

Since you want to mount the projector approx. 8 ft. above floor level that means you will want an angular reflective screen material (and not a retro-reflecive matial such as the Da-Lite High Power).

What price range are you looking for. In general there are really cheap non-tensioned electric screens coming from China, mid-priced tab-tensioned screens from China or US made non-tensioned models, or high price US made tab-tensioned electric screens. The tab-tensioned screens keep the screen flat with no, or minimal, waves in the fabric while most non-tensioned electric screens will develop waves and/or edge curling after some time. I would note that most of the lower price electric models are not available in 2.40 : 1 aspect ratio. Therefore you may want to start off my checking the manufacturers web sites to see which companies actually make a 2:40 : 1 (or 2.35 : 1) electrics. Links for serveral of the screen manufacturers are in Post #1 of this thread.

Prices are difficult to find on line, so I have no idea what things cost. Since I wasn't sure what screen I would need (but getting a better idea now) I didn't call for pricing on specific screens as of yet. I would like to buy a quality screen that will last so the cheap Chinese made ones are out. I figure I will be lowering the screen on average 12 times per month, so I would not want to go cheap on the motorized part either. Do the tension screens hold up to extensions and retractions? How bad is the curling on the non-tension screens if you buy quality? I looked at the Stewart ST130 on their website, but can't seem to figure out if it is available in the 2.35:1 format motorized. Screen Innovations site seems a little more user friendly, but not sure if the Solar HD 1.3 would be as good as the ST130. Any opinions on the Motorized (supposedly out soon) version of the Black Diamond screen for the polarization issue since it will be using the 1.4 gain version from what I gather? Thanks,
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post #108 of 309 Old 01-23-2011, 07:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falcon2000ex View Post

Prices are difficult to find on line, so I have no idea what things cost. Since I wasn't sure what screen I would need (but getting a better idea now) I didn't call for pricing on specific screens as of yet. I would like to buy a quality screen that will last so the cheap Chinese made ones are out. I figure I will be lowering the screen on average 12 times per month, so I would not want to go cheap on the motorized part either. Do the tension screens hold up to extensions and retractions? How bad is the curling on the non-tension screens if you buy quality? I looked at the Stewart ST130 on their website, but can't seem to figure out if it is available in the 2.35:1 format motorized. Screen Innovations site seems a little more user friendly, but not sure if the Solar HD 1.3 would be as good as the ST130. Any opinions on the Motorized (supposedly out soon) version of the Black Diamond screen for the polarization issue since it will be using the 1.4 gain version from what I gather? Thanks,

To get prices, or at least a price range, for the major brands of screens check the web sites for the AVS forum sponsors (llisted at the top of this page and I have provided their links below). The manufacturer's web site should let you determine which models of electrics are available in 2.35 aspect ratio (many are not) and for those that are available in the 2.35 AR what screen materials are being offered. I have no opinion on the soon to be released motorized version of the Black Diamond screen as related to polarizaton.

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Also the AVS Store sells several brands of screens so once you narrow it down to the brand and model you are interested in I suggest to talk or email Jason or Mark for their pricing.

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post #109 of 309 Old 01-23-2011, 09:39 PM
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Ron, from your tests it appears that the Da-Lite HP 2.4 is the best choice if it can be mounted at the right height for the screen.

My room is 14' x 22' and light controlled. Ceiling height is 104" and the top of the screen (119 diag 16x9) will be 88" from the floor and the bottom of the screen 30" from the floor (screen center 59" from floor). Seating width is 110" with 2 rows 10ft & 14ft away from the screen. Would a 30" drop from the ceiling (74" from the floor) be sufficient or do I need to go with a Da-lite Video Spectra 1.5 or Cinema Vision 1.3 for a ceiling mount? I have flexibility on the throw and mounting height since nothing is installed yet.

Thanks!
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post #110 of 309 Old 01-24-2011, 02:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by indyheel View Post

Ron, from your tests it appears that the Da-Lite HP 2.4 is the best choice if it can be mounted at the right height for the screen.

My room is 14' x 22' and light controlled. Ceiling height is 104" and the top of the screen (119 diag 16x9) will be 88" from the floor and the bottom of the screen 30" from the floor (screen center 59" from floor). Seating width is 110" with 2 rows 10ft & 14ft away from the screen. Would a 30" drop from the ceiling (74" from the floor) be sufficient or do I need to go with a Da-lite Video Spectra 1.5 or Cinema Vision 1.3 for a ceiling mount? I have flexibility on the throw and mounting height since nothing is installed yet.

Thanks!

Your projector location is fairly high above seated eye level (i.e., 74 inches above the floor or almost 3 ft. above eye level) for using a retro-reflective screen such as the HP. The calculator posted by FLBoy (link is in Post #1 of this thread) indicates you could expect a gain of about 1.8 from the front row center seat and only 1.3 from the end seats on your front row. You would probably be better off for 3D viewing overall using a good quality angular reflective screen with a gain in the range of 1.3 to 1.5 that retains a signficiant amount of the polarization. I assumed 13ft. projector to screen throw distance for the above calculation. If you could lower the projector this would make the HP performace better, in terms of gain. I suggest you check out FLBoy's calculator for yourself so that you can try different projector and screen mounting positions.

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post #111 of 309 Old 01-26-2011, 01:43 PM
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Thanks for the advice!
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post #112 of 309 Old 01-26-2011, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post

However, for ceiling mounted projectors that are well above the viewer's eye-level (in my case about 44 to 48 inches above my seated eye level), using a anglar reflective that retains a significant level of polarization, such as the Da-Lite Video Spectra 1.5, can produce a substantially brighter image for 3D viewing thru 3D shutter glasses.

For screens that do retain any significant level of polarization, the 3D glasses must have the same orientation for the polarization as that used by the 3D projector (i.e., for the JVC 3D projectors use the JVC glasses and not the Xpand universal glasses (which have the opposite orientation).

Hi Ron,

I'm definitely mounting my PJ up around 7ft. We found lower heights to be too intrusive (and blinding while walking through the room).

I'm looking at some DaLite samples with my RS40 + JVC glasses. I do not have the Video Spectra (1.5), but do have the DaMat (1.0), Cinema Vision (1.3), and Pearlesent (1.5).

I find the DaMat has a great, white picture, nice a bright. The Pearlesent with the highest gain I'm sampling also has good "pop" and colors remain vibrant in 3D, but it is a bit too shiney and may hotspot. I'm a little on the fence about Pearlesent due to the off-angle drop off, but it's still acceptable/on-par with CV off angle brightness.

What's your opinion comparing Pearlesent with the Video Spectra which are rated of equal gain? These two seem do have similar product specs.

Coolplazma's HT Den project. Early project info. Needs update with final results.
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post #113 of 309 Old 01-26-2011, 06:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Ron,

I'm definitely mounting my PJ up around 7ft. We found lower heights to be too intrusive (and blinding while walking through the room).

I'm looking at some DaLite samples with my RS40 + JVC glasses. I do not have the Video Spectra (1.5), but do have the DaMat (1.0), Cinema Vision (1.3), and Pearlesent (1.5).

I find the DaMat has a great, white picture, nice a bright. The Pearlesent with the highest gain I'm considering also has good "pop" and colors remain vibrant in 3D. Surprisingly I'm finding the Cinema Vision is the dullest and lags behind the other two. Maybe it's the gray base in the CV, but I think it sucks. Even though I'm looking for mid-gain materials, I'd choose DaMat over Cinema Vision for a few reasons including better off-angle viewing, much better whites and IMO (to the eye) a brighter, clearer picture. I'm a little on the fence about Pearlesent due to the off-angle drop off, but it's still acceptable/on-par with CV off angle brightness (or lack of).

What's your opinion comparing Pearlesent with the Video Spectra which are rated of equal gain? These two seem do have similar product specs.

I only have the samples to compare, but I used to own a Da-lite with the Pearlesent fabric and I felt its actual gain was lower than their claimed value. As I recall from when I had the set of Da-lite samples lined up a few weeks ago I thought the Video Spectra appeared to have somewhat higher actual gain than did the pearlescent but I haven't seen full size screens to compare these two fabrics for potential hot spotting or other possible issues. I suggest you check for reviews of these fabrics (for 2D projection) starting here on AVS (HERE is one under the screens forum).

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post #114 of 309 Old 01-27-2011, 10:11 AM
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Thanks for the help.

I have narrowed it down to a few screen choices. After giving the salesman at AV Science my information, he steered me toward the Firehawk 3G because my ceiling is white and my side walls are beige (the wall where the screen will be coming down over will be a darker bronze/gold). Behind the seating area it is open for 30 feet before you get to the Bar so I don't think there would be any rear reflective considerations.

With the above conditions, would it be more favorable to have the StudioTek 130 or Da-Lite Cinema Vision with the potential for light scatter and image wash out, or is the Firehawk 3G the better choice since it is gray and won't scatter as much light? My projector will be ceiling mounted and the screen will be 2.35:1 122" wide on a 15' wide by 111" high wall with the center of the screen about 67" off the ground.

Thanks again.
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Originally Posted by falcon2000ex View Post

Thanks for the help.

I have narrowed it down to a few screen choices. After giving the salesman at AV Science my information, he steered me toward the Firehawk 3G because my ceiling is white and my side walls are beige (the wall where the screen will be coming down over will be a darker bronze/gold). Behind the seating area it is open for 30 feet before you get to the Bar so I don't think there would be any rear reflective considerations.

With the above conditions, would it be more favorable to have the StudioTek 130 or Da-Lite Cinema Vision with the potential for light scatter and image wash out, or is the Firehawk 3G the better choice since it is gray and won't scatter as much light? My projector will be ceiling mounted and the screen will be 2.35:1 122" wide on a 15' wide by 111" high wall with the center of the screen about 67" off the ground.

Thanks again.

I have no experience with the Firehawk nor do I recall anyone posting any direct experiences with the Firehawk in this thread. I would suggest you do a search in the three main threads for the JVC 3D projectors (threads for RS40 owners, RS50 owners and the overall thread that covers all the JVC 3D projectors to see if any owners are using a Firehawk to find out what there opinion is. I suspect a Firehawk screen would give you somewhat lower black levels than the Cinema Vision or ST130, but the peak white level would also be somewhat lower.

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post #116 of 309 Old 01-27-2011, 06:29 PM
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I have no experience with the Firehawk nor do I recall anyone posting any direct experiences with the Firehawk in this thread. I would suggest you do a search in the three main threads for the JVC 3D projectors (threads for RS40 owners, RS50 owners and the overall thread that covers all the JVC 3D projectors to see if any owners are using a Firehawk to find out what there opinion is. I suspect a Firehawk screen would give you somewhat lower black levels than the Cinema Vision or ST130, but the peak white level would also be somewhat lower.

Thanks Ron, I have searched high and low for the Firehawk in those forums and the general search and have found very little. Although one guy confirmed your assessment that he needed the JVC 3D glasses with the Firehawk and was awed by the improvement over the Xband glasses. That tells me the Firehawk works great in 3D with the correct polarization, but before I plunge, I was hoping for opinions on the other screens...

How about the light spill or scatter from the other screens (StudioTek 130 and the Da-lite Cinema Vision)? Seems like they are tried and true screens, but do you (or anyone) see them lighting up a white ceiling and beige side walls like the salesman suggested? Would it be enough to really affect the picture with wash out?

I have posted questions elsewhere to narrow this down, but thought since you listed the FireHawk as a 4 on the 1st post, someone might have an idea if it would be good overall for my conditions. Once I give the go on the order, I want to be reasonably sure I made the right choice. Thanks again for your work on this thread, it really has been a major help.
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I installed my new JVC DLA-X3 to my whiteish living room and it got paired with a 82" Greyhawk RS screen. Greyhawk definately retains easily visible amount of polarization. Did not yet do the 100 IRE test, but rotating the JVC glasses 90 degrees with pretty much any content showed considerable drop in brightness. Based on the instructions on the first post I'd quess I would give it 2 or 3 "rating" at the minimum.

It has been mentioned that screen with gain below < 1 are not too useful for 3D, but for example in case of Greyhawk I beg to differ. Greyhawk is pretty much always used in quite short throw as for longer throw ppl would take Firehawk and with very short throw screen sizes do not tend to be huge. These 2 facts combined with the fact that it significantly retains polarization ==> I'd say one will generally be very happy with Greyhawk for 3D with screen size around 100" or below. Also, the new JVCs have THX-3D certification with 90" 1.0 gain screen which do not have any polarization retention (Studiotek 100) so I would bet that 90" Greyhawk gives more light through the glasses than that was available during JVC THX certification.
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post #118 of 309 Old 01-29-2011, 07:06 AM - Thread Starter
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I installed my new JVC DLA-X3 to my whiteish living room and it got paired with a 82" Greyhawk RS screen. Greyhawk definately retains easily visible amount of polarization. Did not yet do the 100 IRE test, but rotating the JVC glasses 90 degrees with pretty much any content showed considerable drop in brightness. Based on the instructions on the first post I'd quess I would give it 2 or 3 "rating" at the minimum.

It has been mentioned that screen with gain below < 1 are not too useful for 3D, but for example in case of Greyhawk I beg to differ. Greyhawk is pretty much always used in quite short throw as for longer throw ppl would take Firehawk and with very short throw screen sizes do not tend to be huge. These 2 facts combined with the fact that it significantly retains polarization ==> I'd say one will generally be very happy with Greyhawk for 3D with screen size around 100" or below. Also, the new JVCs have THX-3D certification with 90" 1.0 gain screen which do not have any polarization retention (Studiotek 100) so I would bet that 90" Greyhawk gives more light through the glasses than that was available during JVC THX certification.

Are you using the latest version of the Greyhawk (i.e., Greyhawk RS G3)?

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post #119 of 309 Old 01-29-2011, 03:33 PM
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Disregard.
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post #120 of 309 Old 01-30-2011, 01:28 PM
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Are you using the latest version of the Greyhawk (i.e., Greyhawk RS G3)?

My screen was purchased late 2007 along with my HD100 (JVC RS2) and does not have THX badge or G3 marked anywhere so I'd say I have the generation prior to G3. So like with ST130 there is the possibility that the older version retains more polarization.
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