Samsung 3d dlp + 3dc-100s = 3d - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 242 Old 03-12-2011, 06:12 PM
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The youtube videos is the correct way to turn on 3D for PS3, even with 3dc-100s, just make sure that 3dc-100s is power on, and the 3D light is on when you try it. If it does not work the first time, keep trying. I got it to work on the 3rd time. I also tried with 3dc-100s in different modes, though I don't remember which one it was when it worked.
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post #182 of 242 Old 03-12-2011, 11:57 PM
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Sounds to me like you got a bad 3DC-100S. If the PS3 hasn't been activated for 3D yet then the adapter should just pass the PS3 video straight to the TV. Plug the PS3 directly into the HDMI 3 input, if you don't get the "mode not supported" message then it's the 3DC-100S screwing up the signal. Mitsubishi sold you the adapter as compatible with your TV, they should be supporting their product.

You can try resetting the adapter by plugging it into HDMI 1 or 2, or another non supported TV and then reconnecting it to the Samsung's HDMI 3 input. Unplug the adapter's power when you switch connections. That should clear out the EDID and reset it.

FYI, the TV's 3D option will only be available if the input resolution is one that the Samsung supports 3D checkerboard for (1080p/60Hz for the 3DC-100S). If you set the PS3 to output 1080p the 3D option should be available in the tools menu even without the adapter connected. With the PS3 the 3DC-100S should automatically switch to the right 3D mode when 3D content is being played. The 3DC-100S shouldn't need to be in 3D mode for the PS3 to detect it as a 3D TV, if it is it will be kind of hard to see the screen.

Good luck
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post #183 of 242 Old 03-13-2011, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NTN1 View Post

Kept getting the "Mode Not Supported" error. Thanks.

That error is reported by the TV not the PS3. As long as you are wired correctly the PS3 to the 3dc-100S to the Samsung then the video setup link will work. My 61a750 and your 67a750 use the same chips as far as I know.

If you don't even see the PS3 signin screen, I suspect you have something set up wrong. Make sure you don't have the in/out on the 100S box backwards. Check the port on the TV to see if it will play direct from the PS3 (it won't do 3d, but it should display the 2d PS3 screen fine). If it doesn't work there, plug it into HDMI 1 on the tv and switch to that input. If you see the PS3 on port 1 you may have a bad port 3.

If you don't see it, make sure the PS3 output is set for HDMI. If that is OK, then you may have a bad cable. Although some folks have said the type of HDMI cable doesn't matter, if you are using the cable that came with the PS3, then eliminate that as a problem by getting a new high speed cable.

It is a bit difficult doing troubleshooting via emails but you have to be very methodical on tracing steps in the setup routine. If I've mentioned stuff you already tried then just ignore. All I could tell is that you jumped from A to Z and you have to eliminate everything in between.
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post #184 of 242 Old 03-14-2011, 09:45 AM
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Thank you all for the helpful comments. The fact that some of you needed more than one try to get it to work shows that the design is not robust for Samsung TV synchronization, at least with the PS3 as the 3D video device.

I finally figured it out after many experiments. The simplest solution is to power on the TV last. Assuming everything is connected per the User's Guide, here's the fool-proof power-on process (there are other sure ways, involving HDMI cable swapping, but this is the simplest):

1/ Turn on the PS3, which automatically turns on the 3DC-100S
2/ Wait a few seconds for the PS3 to come up and synchronize with the 3DC-100S, turn on the Samsung TV. If it's not already on the HDMI3/DVI source (with PC as the description for this input), then select it.
3/ Put the Samsung TV in 3D mode by pressing TOOLS on the remote. Mode 1 or 2 doesn't matter for me.
4/ Pop in a 3D blu-ray, or fire up a 3D game. Enjoy.

You may need to swap steps 3 and 4. If you don't ever unplug the Mitsubishi 3DC-100S after you get it to work the first time, then the TV can be turned on first like what the manual says. As for me, I put everything (except the TV) on a power strip, where power is removed completely when not in use, then I must power on the TV last if I want 3D.

Other comments: HDMI3/DVI must be described as PC (not renamed as everyone seems to call it because the input is forever HDMI3). I saw 3D ghost effects and some flashes, when I called it something else. I used the original PS3 HDMI cable to connect it to the Mitsubishi box. I also tried an HDMI 1.4a cable, but it made no difference.

I hope this helps someone out there. Thanks.
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post #185 of 242 Old 03-14-2011, 10:05 AM
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I have the 3DC-1000 kit with the modified EDID on my Samsung HL61A750 and HL67A750 and I always have the TVs on first when using the PS3, Comcast STB or my Panasonic 3D Blu-ray players. I have not had any problems with any of these sources.
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post #186 of 242 Old 03-16-2011, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NTN1 View Post

I put everything (except the TV) on a power strip, where power is removed completely when not in use, then I must power on the TV last if I want 3D.

Or you can switch the TV source to something else, and switch it back to HDMI3. That's what I usually do when the TV 3D option is grey out.
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post #187 of 242 Old 03-19-2011, 03:26 PM
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OK, I thought I did my research that my HL-T5089s with a Panasonic BDT-300 Blu-Ray player set on checkerboard would work with DLP Link 3D glasses. I first ran the HDMI cable to my Onkyo 876 which then ran into HDMI 3 on the Sammy. The glasses would very infrequently kick in but for the most part they did not sync up. I then moved the cable to HDMI1 on the TV and again for the most part did not sync. I thought I read somewhere about setting the input to PC which I assume would only work in HDMI3 since its grayed out on HDMI1. Does anyone know of this setting? Or do I need to by the emitter that plugs into the back of the TV?
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post #188 of 242 Old 03-23-2011, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcporemba View Post

OK, I thought I did my research that my HL-T5089s with a Panasonic BDT-300 Blu-Ray player set on checkerboard would work with DLP Link 3D glasses. I first ran the HDMI cable to my Onkyo 876 which then ran into HDMI 3 on the Sammy. The glasses would very infrequently kick in but for the most part they did not sync up. I then moved the cable to HDMI1 on the TV and again for the most part did not sync. I thought I read somewhere about setting the input to PC which I assume would only work in HDMI3 since its grayed out on HDMI1. Does anyone know of this setting? Or do I need to by the emitter that plugs into the back of the TV?

I'm not familiar with the HL-T5089s, but you need to check the User's Manual for which HDMI input to use for 3D. If you lost the manual, or can not find it through Google, then try an HDMI input that allows you to describe it as PC. PC description is not 100% necessary, although it will help eliminate ghosting effects in some scenes, but you absolutely need to use the HDMI input that supports 3D, in order to turn on the LED emitter that controls the glasses. Note that the 3D sync emitter is NOT connected to the back of the TV. It goes to the Mitsubishi adapter. If you hook up everything correctly per the user's manual, and use the correct 3D HDMI input, you'll see the LED's on the emitter light up when the TV gets 3D signal.
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post #189 of 242 Old 03-23-2011, 04:13 PM
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Is this available for purchase without the uneeded glasses yet?

Sony KDL-70R550A (passive 3D tv)
Denon x4000 (amazing sound correcting software)
Klipsch RF-62IIs (amazing horns)
Klipsch RC-62II (so clear)
Klipsch RS-41IIs (so full)
SVS PC12-NSD + Klipsch RW12d (so boom)
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post #190 of 242 Old 03-26-2011, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teremei View Post

Is this available for purchase without the uneeded glasses yet?

These guys at 3dglassesunlimited.com appear to have broken the set out into parts for the people who don't need the whole thing:
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post #191 of 242 Old 03-30-2011, 09:25 AM
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^^^I bought the kit from those guys, very nice and good service. Got it delivered next day. Ask for Mike Miller, he'll take care of you.
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post #192 of 242 Old 04-07-2011, 10:59 AM
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If two sets of strained eyes aren't enough for the family, Samsung is also cutting the price of its glasses to "under $50", so probably $49.99 then.

Read more: http://www.theinquirer.net/inquirer/...#ixzz1IrSnsoXR
The Inquirer - Computer hardware news and downloads. Visit the download store today.
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post #193 of 242 Old 04-21-2011, 05:03 PM
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I have tried everything you suggested NTN1 and still no luck. I have the samsung hl61a750a1f which shows on the box it has been tested. I have it cabled up from the PS3 to the 3DC-100s to the HDMI3/DVI (labled PC). No matter what combination of power cycling things I still get the "Mode Not supported" issue. I can leave everything cabled as is and move the cable form HDMI3 to HDMI2, and I do get a signal but fuzzy when leaving the demo BD playing on the ps3 so it is outputting something. I can hook up my cable stb to HDMI3 and have no problem. I am pretty much at my end of my rope now. Can anyone provide any suggestions at all?
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post #194 of 242 Old 04-22-2011, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich123 View Post

If two sets of strained eyes aren't enough for the family, Samsung is also cutting the price of its glasses to "under $50", so probably $49.99 then.

Read more: http://www.theinquirer.net/inquirer/...#ixzz1IrSnsoXR
The Inquirer - Computer hardware news and downloads. Visit the download store today.

These glasses are Bluetooth and not compatible with the IR emitter.
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post #195 of 242 Old 04-23-2011, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socratesdante View Post

I have tried everything you suggested NTN1 and still no luck. I have the samsung hl61a750a1f which shows on the box it has been tested. I have it cabled up from the PS3 to the 3DC-100s to the HDMI3/DVI (labled PC). No matter what combination of power cycling things I still get the "Mode Not supported" issue. I can leave everything cabled as is and move the cable form HDMI3 to HDMI2, and I do get a signal but fuzzy when leaving the demo BD playing on the ps3 so it is outputting something. I can hook up my cable stb to HDMI3 and have no problem. I am pretty much at my end of my rope now. Can anyone provide any suggestions at all?

I figured it out. It was a bad cable or wrong type of hdmi cable that they sent me. I had another laying around so tried it on a last ditch effort before returning the device. It worked. However, non-3d sources on my comcast stb do not work. It looks like the device is trying to convert it as well so it is hard to navigate the menus. The blacks are more red than black as well. Now I am going to pig out on some 3d content.
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post #196 of 242 Old 04-23-2011, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlumB View Post
Sounds to me like you got a bad 3DC-100S. If the PS3 hasn't been activated for 3D yet then the adapter should just pass the PS3 video straight to the TV. Plug the PS3 directly into the HDMI 3 input, if you don't get the "mode not supported" message then it's the 3DC-100S screwing up the signal. Mitsubishi sold you the adapter as compatible with your TV, they should be supporting their product.

You can try resetting the adapter by plugging it into HDMI 1 or 2, or another non supported TV and then reconnecting it to the Samsung's HDMI 3 input. Unplug the adapter's power when you switch connections. That should clear out the EDID and reset it.

FYI, the TV's 3D option will only be available if the input resolution is one that the Samsung supports 3D checkerboard for (1080p/60Hz for the 3DC-100S). If you set the PS3 to output 1080p the 3D option should be available in the tools menu even without the adapter connected. With the PS3 the 3DC-100S should automatically switch to the right 3D mode when 3D content is being played. The 3DC-100S shouldn't need to be in 3D mode for the PS3 to detect it as a 3D TV, if it is it will be kind of hard to see the screen.

Good luck

PlumB I use a MIT adapter with your EDID modification on a Samsung 67" DLP.
The adapter is always on. My set up from the display Samsung 67" DLP to the sources are :

Samsung 67"DLP HDMI3/PC<3D Blue Ray player. ( Very good 3D images)

Samsung 67"DLP HDMI3/PC

Samsung 67"DLP HDMI3/PC

Note.- The above AVer3D CaptureHD H727 3D converts all the chanels 2d>3d on the fly of my cable box and FTA DVBS DVBS2 composite.


Samsung 67"DLP HDMI3/PC

PlumB could you please help me with a problem I have when on the PC and the Mits adapter. The PC is connected to the Internet watching live tv from broadcasters around the world from a URL , example http://wwitv.com/tv_channels/b5282.htm images are pass along the Mits adapter as normal 2d but after a while, half hour or so, the mits adapter stops and give me a warning on the display screen "signal is not compatible" ???? and the display screen goes black. Next I turn Mits adapter remote power off and turn on and the images comeback. Is there somenthing you could add to the EDID so the Mits adapter understand the URL tv signal over the Internet????
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post #197 of 242 Old 04-25-2011, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by robert2010 View Post

PlumB could you please help me with a problem I have when on the PC and the Mits adapter. The PC is connected to the Internet watching live tv from broadcasters around the world from a URL , example http://wwitv.com/tv_channels/b5282.htm images are pass along the Mits adapter as normal 2d but after a while, half hour or so, the mits adapter stops and give me a warning on the display screen "signal is not compatible" ???? and the display screen goes black. Next I turn Mits adapter remote power off and turn on and the images comeback. Is there somenthing you could add to the EDID so the Mits adapter understand the URL tv signal over the Internet????

I replied to your post in the other thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post20346770
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post #198 of 242 Old 04-26-2011, 07:26 AM
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So where can I get this damn thing (3DC-100S) in Canada, eh?!?
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post #199 of 242 Old 04-26-2011, 09:55 AM
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So where can I get this damn thing (3DC-100S) in Canada, eh?!?

Can't you purchase it directly from Mitsubishi? I'd think there's shouldn't be any problem shipping it to Canada.
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post #200 of 242 Old 04-29-2011, 11:53 PM
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I purchased the TRU3D kit when it first came out. It consisted of a Mitsubishi 3DC-100 with a Geffen EDIT spoofer. This worked well for me for a while. They even sent me a free upgrade kit when they had the product finalized.

Well The 3DC-100 died on me around the same time I had my Harmon Kardon 7550HD AVR was replaced for an upgraded one with HDMI 1.4a. I went without 3D for a while on DirecTv but still had it on my Panasonic 3D BR player. With the new 3DNET channel on DirecTv I was missing out on a lot of stuff I would like to see. I decided to buy a Mitsubishi 3DC-100S so I could get it back.

I got it in a few days ago and connected it directly from my DirecTv DVR to my TV. IT worked great. Then I tried to place it either before my HK 7550HD or after it and it would not work. It looks like the AVR was reporting that my Samsung DLP would only support 1080i. I don't know if the AVR is to blame or the TV. I guess upgrading to HDMI 1.4 doesn't fix everything.

Then I decided to try and reprogram the Geffen box from my TRU3D kit. I programmed it with my Samsung's EDIT then placed the 100S after my DVR then the Geffen next to my 7550. Yes it works! I can also use 3D on my Panasonic 3D BR player using a different input and have the 7550 output everything to the HDMI3 input on my TV.

Although I have everything working now I am a little disappointed that I had to use the Geffen box. I thought having a 1.4a AVR would pass the proper EDIT information to the devices below it. I also switched to an optical cable for the DVR since the Geffen only passes 2.0 audio using HDMI to the AVR.
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post #201 of 242 Old 04-30-2011, 08:13 AM
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Do you have multiple display devices connected to the AVR? If yes HDCP may not be available with it.
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post #202 of 242 Old 05-02-2011, 11:13 PM
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Do you have multiple display devices connected to the AVR? If yes HDCP may not be available with it.

Me? no, just the one TV.
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post #203 of 242 Old 05-10-2011, 07:45 AM
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Last time I checked "getting it from mitsubishi" meant ordering through unicentv who are *******s that wont ship to canada and even when i go to ship to a us address, they need an american credit card.
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post #204 of 242 Old 05-11-2011, 06:32 AM
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buy a usa visa gift card and do it that way
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post #205 of 242 Old 05-21-2011, 06:15 PM
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Hey guys I have the 3dc-100s and while I like it Im thinking about selling it cause I need the money and dont think I use it enough to justify having it still, had for a couple of months and everything is perfect condition, PM me if interested
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post #206 of 242 Old 05-27-2011, 12:44 PM
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WOW, WOW. WOW!!!!! We just got our 3DC-100s from Mike Miller over at 3Dglassesunlimited. Extremely helpful and knowledgeable guy. Got it hooked up & we am blown away by the 3D picture. Finally able to use the Sammy as we have wanted to since we purchased it in "08".
This is how we have ours set-up.
Source ( PS3, DTV, 3D bluray) to adapter to Samsung HTL6187s.
We have an older AVR which doesn't have HDMI, so we are getting 7.1 audio thru optical cable. We are happy campers now
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post #207 of 242 Old 05-28-2011, 09:19 AM
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Is this kit still just available directly through Mitsubishi? The 3dc-1000 can be found various places for $250, but the 3dc-100s seems to still only be $449 direct from Mits. Any suggestions on other places to look?
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post #208 of 242 Old 05-29-2011, 08:04 PM
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Hi.
I have a Samsung 61" HL61A750 and a Sony STRDH720 7.1 Channel 3D AV Receiver..

My question is what is the difference between using a PC or 3dc-100s? Is the 3D experience the same? I have a HTPC I use as it is. I'm wondering if I should get the 3dc-100s or just get me a Blu-Ray drive for my HTPC?

Thanks for any help..
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post #209 of 242 Old 06-04-2011, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reK68 View Post

[snip]...We have an older AVR which doesn't have HDMI, so we are getting 7.1 audio thru optical cable...[snip]

How did you manage to get 7.1 through optical? I thought 7.1 was only available through HDMI...

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post #210 of 242 Old 07-03-2011, 12:30 AM
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I've been thinking about jumping into this whole 3d thing, but I have a few questions that maybe some of you can help answer. My TV is a Samsung HL61A750. I have my PS3 connected to Yamaha RX-V661 (HDMI 1.2a). I would like to get the adapter kit, but am unsure of how I could hook things up and keep lossless audio from my PS3 to my receiver. Ideally, I would like to place the 3d adapter between my AVR and TV. I guess this wouldn't work because the AVR will not be able to pass the 3d Bluray bandwidth, even though the AVR just does passthrough. Is this correct?

Secondly, why aren't people using a splitter? I would like to know if you could take the PS3's output, send it to a splitter, which sends one output to the 3d adapter and TV, and the other output goes to the AVR for full lossless HD audio. Why wouldn't this work? I saw 3d capable HDMI 1.4 splitters on monoprice for like $20. Would this not work? If this option does work, then I am ready to order my adapter from TRU3d and get me some Optoma DLP link glasses. If there is no way for me to get 3d and keep my lossless audio without having to get a new AVR, then I may just have to pass on 3d for now. That would suck since I keep reading how great the 3d quality is with these sets. Thanks for the advice!

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