Samsung 3d dlp + 3dc-100s = 3d - Page 8 - AVS Forum
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post #211 of 242 Old 07-03-2011, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snrsuave View Post

I've been thinking about jumping into this whole 3d thing, but I have a few questions that maybe some of you can help answer. My TV is a Samsung HL61A750. I have my PS3 connected to Yamaha RX-V661 (HDMI 1.2a). I would like to get the adapter kit, but am unsure of how I could hook things up and keep lossless audio from my PS3 to my receiver. Ideally, I would like to place the 3d adapter between my AVR and TV. I guess this wouldn't work because the AVR will not be able to pass the 3d Bluray bandwidth, even though the AVR just does passthrough. Is this correct?

Secondly, why aren't people using a splitter? I would like to know if you could take the PS3's output, send it to a splitter, which sends one output to the 3d adapter and TV, and the other output goes to the AVR for full lossless HD audio. Why wouldn't this work? I saw 3d capable HDMI 1.4 splitters on monoprice for like $20. Would this not work? If this option does work, then I am ready to order my adapter from TRU3d and get me some Optoma DLP link glasses. If there is no way for me to get 3d and keep my lossless audio without having to get a new AVR, then I may just have to pass on 3d for now. That would suck since I keep reading how great the 3d quality is with these sets. Thanks for the advice!

The sound on a 3D disc is encoded differently, and a 1.2 or 1.3 AVR can't recognize it, even with a splitter.

http://hdguru.com/3d-hdtv-and-hdmi-explained/1336/
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Unfortunately, your current HDMI equipped surround sound receiver will not pass the new FHD3D signal and no upgrades are possible according to both Sony and Denon. Why? A system called EDID (Extended Display Identification Data) currently handles communications between your TV, receiver and source components and it works fine. However, when your new 3D television communicates that it is a 3D television, the receiver will not understand because the 3D ID was not part of the standard when your receiver was designed. The receiver will shut off the HDMI signal and your new 3D TV screen will go black.

The PS3 will not output lossless audio while playing Bluray3D discs, so hook it up with optical (for 3D), and a splitter/switch combination connecting it through the AVR for 2D, and through the adapter for 3D.

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post #212 of 242 Old 07-04-2011, 10:04 AM
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"The sound on a 3D disc is encoded differently, and a 1.2 or 1.3 AVR can't recognize it, even with a splitter."

The sound transmitted is the same, but the HDMI 1.4 standard will not recognize a 1.4 (3D) TV when it does not go through a 1.4 compliant receiver. Only a 1.4 compliant receiver will allow the HDMI 3D characteristics to be pass through to the source. The only exception to this is a 3D Blu-ray player with 2 HDMI outputs such as some Panasonic models. This allows the sound to go desperately to a non 1.4 HDMI without having to read the HDMI 1.4 characteristics of the TV which has a separate HDMI handshake through other HDMI port.
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post #213 of 242 Old 07-04-2011, 10:46 AM
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On a 61a750, is the correct viewing mode with DLP-link glasses mode 2?

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post #214 of 242 Old 07-04-2011, 11:18 AM
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With the packed buffer 3D format from a 3D blu-ray player or from a PS3 the sound is contained in the space between the right and left eye fields and not in the space before the video as in other 2D and 3D formats. This is why only a 1.4 receiver can remove and play it. See:

http://hdguru.com/3d-hdtv-and-hdmi-explained/1336/
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post #215 of 242 Old 07-04-2011, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjb16 View Post

On a 61a750, is the correct viewing mode with DLP-link glasses mode 2?

That is the mode that I use on my Samsung HL61A750 and I find it works best.
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post #216 of 242 Old 07-04-2011, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walford View Post

With the packed buffer 3D format from a 3D blu-ray player or from a PS3 the sound is contained in the space between the right and left eye fields and not in the space before the video as in other 2D and 3D formats. This is why only a 1.4 receiver can remove and play it. See:

http://hdguru.com/3d-hdtv-and-hdmi-explained/1336/

The Blu-ray player extracts the sound from the disc and puts it into a standard sound format.
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post #217 of 242 Old 07-06-2011, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjb16 View Post
On a 61a750, is the correct viewing mode with DLP-link glasses mode 2?
Usually mode 2 is the correct mode. When I use software on my PC, depending upon the source, Mode 1 will be preferred. You can easily tell by switching the modes and viewing the results. If the mode is correct, the menu from the remote control will appear in front of the picture and you will see some depth.

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post #218 of 242 Old 07-18-2011, 09:24 PM
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You don't need an expensive 3dc-100s for a Samsung DLP TV. A 2010 vintage mitsubishi 3da1 adapter will work if configured as follows (without a Samsung-to-Mitsubishi EDID hack):

1. Power off the adapter (leave everything plugged in and connected)
2. Press and hold the 3D Mode button then press and hold the Power button
3. Observe the 3D status light until it blinks. You want it to blink once, if it blinks twice (5 seconds apart) then restart at step 1.
4. After you get the unit to blink once, release the Power button then release the 3D Mode button.

See http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1341216 for more details
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post #219 of 242 Old 08-08-2011, 03:55 PM
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Anybody want to sell a 3DC-100S?

I can be reached at alexhaj@gmail.com
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post #220 of 242 Old 08-30-2011, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexhaj View Post

Anybody want to sell a 3DC-100S?

I can be reached at alexhaj@gmail.com

I have a 3DC-100S for sale. My Samsung DLP just died so I no longer have a use for it. It's seen extremely light use and includes two sets of glasses, transmitter, power supply, demo disc, HDMI cable and owner's manual. It's hardly been used and is in very nice condition. I'll send you an email.

Update: SOLD.
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post #221 of 242 Old 08-31-2011, 09:29 AM
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So am I correct that my onkyo 705 that does hdmi 1.3, wont work with the 3d adapter and give me lossless audio? If that's the case, I will just be waiting until I can afford a new receiver and a 3d capable tv or projector.

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post #222 of 242 Old 11-20-2011, 02:34 AM
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I order the 3dc-100s 9 days ago and I still haven't received any shipping information. They won't respond to any of my emails, and when I call them they just tell me that someone will call me back, which has never happened. This is the worst customer service I have ever had from any company. They were obviously quick to take the money from my account, but evidently don't feel the need to ship my product or communicate with me in any way.
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post #223 of 242 Old 11-21-2011, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captclueless View Post

So am I correct that my onkyo 705 that does hdmi 1.3, wont work with the 3d adapter and give me lossless audio? If that's the case, I will just be waiting until I can afford a new receiver and a 3d capable tv or projector.

You are correct, it is because the AVR cannot pass a 3D Blu-ray signal.
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post #224 of 242 Old 02-24-2012, 01:24 PM
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ok, i just got my 3dc-100s kit in for my sammy led dlp. I hook every thing up..ie, PS3 hmdi to onkyo reciever to 3dc-100s adapter to HDMI 3/DVI. changed the HDMI3 name to PC. popped in green lantern 3d in ps3...but i cant get it to output to checkerboard for my tv. only options are 3d top/bottom and 3d left/right. anyone have any ideas? thanks!
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post #225 of 242 Old 02-24-2012, 03:06 PM
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The options you refer to are the INCOMMING signal options, not the OUTGOING signal options. The Checkerboard is the OUTGOING signal. The the whole purpose of the adater is to convert to Checkerboard so you do not need to select that.

If the adapter works, the outgoing signal 3D is automatically checkerboard just select NORMAL option - the NORMAL option is the automatic mode.

In the NORMAL mode, a 3D signal that is HDMI 1.4a compliant is automatically detected and coverted to Checkerboard without your intervention. You just need to turn on the 3D mode in the Samsung TV menus. When the signal returns to a 2D signal, the adatper automatically returns to pass-through mode, again without your intervention.

Also, you do not indicate if your Receiver is 3D compatible, if it is not 3D compatible it is preventing the adatper from receiving a 3D signal. The the PS3 will not send a 3D signal to a receiver that is not 3D compatible. The PS3 will only send 2D signals to receivers that do not indicate 3D support. Check the Onkyo web site for your model. If it supports 3D, it is listed there.

The other two incomming signal options you mention are for 3D signals that are not HDMI 1.4a compliant. The adapter cannot automatically detect these so you need to manually select them. Unless you have a home made disc that has Side-By-Side or Top-Bottom, your PS3 is HDMI 1.4a compliant for 3D so the NORMAL (or automatic) is the correct setting.
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post #226 of 242 Old 02-24-2012, 03:07 PM
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You need to reset the PS3 video so it recognizes it is connected to a 3D TV. The Mits adapter will automatically convert the PS3 3D signal to checkerboard without having to select any settings. The top/Bottom and side by side setting sd not apply to Blu-ray discs but are principally for 3D TV viewing.
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post #227 of 242 Old 02-28-2012, 03:43 PM
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Per advice from this forum, I got the Mitisibushi 3Ds-100 emitter only from 3dglassesunlimited.com, along with the ssg2100Blick glasses, and am having some issues getting my HL67A750 Samsung to recognize the 3d signal. I set the HDMI3/DVI (renamed to PC) to 3D Mode 1, and got the infamous red tint, but when I attempted to play TRANSFORMERS 3D, all I got was the standard "3D display not recognized" menu screen.

I'm also not sure if the PS3 Slim is properly set to display 3D. It's at the most current update, but I didn't see the 3D options in the video settings menu.

Do I need any other hardware besides the emitter? I saw the red light flashing on it, so it must be working. Also, is there an RGB setting that needs to be specified on either the TV or PS3 end? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
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post #228 of 242 Old 02-29-2012, 10:10 AM
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When you st up the video on the PS3 you have to let the PS3 do an auto-detect of the display capabilities. It will then pick up the display as a 3D capable display and ask you for the size of the display.
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post #229 of 242 Old 06-19-2012, 09:12 PM
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Okay, I'm having the same issue. Just bought the 3DC-100S, hooked everything up, and can't get the 3D status (or emitter) to light up in 3D Normal mode (status and emitter light up in top/bottom and SBS, but of course those won't work with the Samsung). I have an HL-T5087SA. The user manual is useless about activating 3D mode. There is no option in the Picture menu to select 3D (is there supposed to be?); there is a glasses selection option in the Setup menu (I choose "Standard"). There is no option to select a 3D mode in Tools. I spent half the day on the phone with Mitsubishi and Samsung. Both were useless. Mitsubishi finally said to call Samsung; Samsung said I had to buy another piece of hardware, but couldn't tell me what it was! I've gotten a return authorization to send the 3DC-100S back to Amazon, but I really didn't want to give up, since my TV is on the list of those that are supposed to be supported. I've got a PS3 with the latest firmware, and an Onkyo TX-SR608, which is 3D ready. When I was troubleshooting with Mitsubishi, I hooked directly from the PS3 to the adapter to the TV, so... we know the Onkyo isn't the issue. If anyone can think of anything I've overlooked, please let me know... otherwise, I've got to give up and send it back.

Oh, also, going into the HDMI3/DVI input... there was no audio from the Blu-ray (the Disney sampler that came with the kit).
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post #230 of 242 Old 06-20-2012, 07:27 AM
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Okay, I've read through this thread and come to the realization that I'm not going to get audio through my receiver (even though it's supposedly 3D ready) when using the HDMI3/DVI port, that I'll have to use TOSLINK to get audio when using 3D. I'm fine with that. So, my problem seems to come down to having no way to put the Samsung HL-T5087S into 3D mode. I thought I was doing that when I was choosing the glasses mode, but apparently that's all I was doing. Will I see a 3D option in the picture menu ONLY when the adapter is hooked up and passing a 3D signal? I'm willing to try a direct hookup one more time. If it works, I'm okay with buying a HDMI switch to run the PS3 directly into the TV when watching 3D, and through the receiver when watching regular Blu-Ray/PS3 content. I'd appreciate any feedback from anyone who knows anything about the HL-T5087S. In the interests of full disclosure, the full model number on mine (as listed on the unit is HL-T5087SAX, but my understanding is that it's the exact same set, only manufactured in America.
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post #231 of 242 Old 06-20-2012, 11:51 AM
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I am a little confused by your set up so will start at the beginning. Make sure you have the 3DC-100S and not the 3DC-1000 - they have different software so instructions will be different.

Connection for testing:
1. 3D Blu-ray player HDMI OUT to adatper HDMI IN.
2. Adapter HDMI OUT to Samsung HDMI 3/DVI IN. - remember the OUT of the Adapter MUST connect to the TV directly so the adatper knows it is connected to a Samsung TV and will allow 3D.
3. Special 3-pin cable that came with the adapter connects between the Samsung jack labeled "3D Sync Out" to Adapter "3D Glasses Emitter IN".
4. IR emitter connects to Adapter "3D Glasses Emitter OUT".
5. Turn on TV.
6. Turn on Blu-ray player - the adapter should now turn on automatically.
7. Swith TV to HDMI 3 - you should see the Blu-ray players screen saver or menus.
8. Instert a 3D Blu-ray disc into the Blu-ray player. Normally it starts playing automatically or at least goes to the Disc Menu. If it does not, manually start the playback.
9. The Adapter should show some form of on-screen display that says the adapter's 3D mode (standard which means Automatic) and might tell you to turn on the 3D mode in the TV (because the adapter does not see a emitter sync signal from the TV on the 3-pin cable).
10. Display the TV Menu and go to Setup (NOT Picture) and go down to 3D/DualView. As long as the signal comming in from the Adapter is 1080p, the 3D/DualView option in the TV menu should be available.
11. Press ENTER to get into the 3D menu.
12. Select ON/STD GLS or MODE 1 (I do not know which is in your model's menu, Samsung has used both names). The emitter from the adapter should work now and you should see 3D. If the picture looks backwards, re-enter the 3D/Dual View menu and select ON/REV GLS or MODE 2.

Note: once you have confirmed this works, the 3D button on the remote control should be a short cut.

If that works, now try disconnecting the Blu-ray player from the adatper. Connect the Monitor HDMI OUT of the AV Reciever to the Adapter HDMI IN and the Blu-ray player to one of the AV Reciever's HDMI IN. If the AV Receiver is able to pass 3D, check the instructions for the AV Receiver for the correct settings on the AVR to allow the 3D. You should not need a separate switch if the AV Reciever supports 3D.

Notes:
1. Side-by-side and top-bottom settings on the Adatper are for non-standard 3D signals comming IN the adatper and has nothing to do with what the Adapter sends OUT to the TV. The entire purpose of the adapter is to convert these non-standard signals to signals the TV can handle.
2. The adapter does not create the IR emitter sync signal, it just passes that signal from the TV to the emitter. It uses the sync signal or lack of sync signal from the TV to establish if the TV's 3D mode is ON or OFF. If it is off, the adatper sends a reminder display telling you to turn on the 3D mode in the TV.
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post #232 of 242 Old 06-20-2012, 12:34 PM
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Thanks, GEP. I will try all of this again shortly. I did buy the 3DC-100S, and the instructions reference Samsung compatibility. I pretty much did all of this yesterday, selecting STD-GLS from the TV's Setup menu, but I couldn't get the green 3D status light on the adapter in the adapter's "3D Normal" mode, and, in normal mode, the emitter's red light would go out as soon as I tried to start playing the supplied test Blu-ray (the supplied Disney 3D Blu-ray is the only one I have at the moment, I wanted to make sure this worked before I started buying discs). I tried taking the PS3 both through the Onkyo and going directly to the TV (never did get any audio). On curious thing, though; when going through the Display setup on the PS3, I never got the message that it recognized that I was connected to a 3D capable TV, nor did it ever ask me for the size... just the resolution. I will try this again shortly, but to clarify the setup that I attempted yesterday:

1. PS3>Onkyo TX-SR608>adapter>HDMI3/DVI (with the emitter cables patched as prescribed)

2. PS3>adapter>HDMI3/DVI (with the emitter cables patched as prescribed)

Again, I will follow the steps you have prescribed above exactly, and report back.

The other problem I found with putting the receiver through the adapter is the the audio on my Boxee Box fails initialize, and the color is all wonky, which is another reason I was considering a switcher for the PS3. I want the Boxee Box to go through the receiver for obvious audio reasons, but if it's not going to look right going through the adapter into HDMI3/DVI, I need to look at other options.

Thanks again for the guidance. Fingers crossed.
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post #233 of 242 Old 06-20-2012, 02:27 PM
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1. What software are you on your PS3.
2. Once connected as in the test setup - re-do the HDMI setup from scratch via the PS3 menus often after a software update on the PS3 you need to re-do tha HDMI setup.
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post #234 of 242 Old 06-20-2012, 03:30 PM
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GEP, THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! You saved me from making a huge mistake BY returning this thing when it WORKS!!! I think I narrowed down the trouble... I did all of the setups that I mentioned yesterday... but the one thing I did NOT do was do run the PS3 video setup routine with the PS3 plugged directly into the adapter, which I have now done. And it worked beautifully!!!!

I then ran the PS3 through the Onkyo into the adapter, and the 3D continued to work beautifully. AND IT'S GORGEOUS!!! I need to go get a real 3D movie right away, because the Disney sampler is blowing my mind!!

Okay... here's the only remaining issue (and the reason I may get an HDMI selector switch):

Running the PS3 directly into the adapter, I could get audio by selecting "TV" on the Onkyo (I've got a TOSLINK cable running back to the receiver to get the digital audio from OTA broadcasts).

Running the PS3 through the Onkyo, I cannot get audio, either from directly from the the HDMI input (BD/DVR), or through the TOSLINK by selecting "TV" on the Onkyo.

Any suggestions on that front? Otherwise, I can use an HDMI switch to run the PS3 directly into the adapter for 3D content, and into the receiver for everything else.

THANKS AGAIN!!!!

UPDATE: I just realized that when I turn the adapter off, I get the audio from the Blu-ray (but not the video!)
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post #235 of 242 Old 06-20-2012, 05:37 PM
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Check your AVR menus for different settings on HDMI. You may have a by-pass set incorrectly.

You do not get video to the TV when the adatper is powered off. There should be no reason to power off the adapter manually. When you turn off the AVR and PS3, the adapter should turn off automatically and it should turn on automatically when you power these devices on again. The adapter power is automatic. The manual override is for cable boxes and satellite receivers which never really turn off, but simply send a black screen. In that case the adapter still sees a signal (a black one) and stays powered on. Most people don't really care that the adapter is on even then because it is not using much power in that condition.
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post #236 of 242 Old 06-20-2012, 06:51 PM
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I can't find anything in the AVR menus to change the HDMI settings. It's weird that the audio comes through HDMI just fine when the adapter is off (just as it always did before I bought the adapter), only when the adapter is on does the audio cut out. Oh, and the adapter doesn't power down when I turn the receiver off. I still have to shut it off manually. I wonder if it could somehow be related to the HDMI3/DVI port on the TV? The reason I say this is, if I power up the Boxee Box BEFORE I turn on the receiver and the adapter, it works just fine through the adapter (as it always did before I bought the adapter), BUT, if I power up the Boxee Box while the receiver is on, not only do I get a message that says the "audio did not initialize," the Boxee is screen is a funky pinkish color.
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post #237 of 242 Old 06-21-2012, 12:49 PM
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hi folks, is anyone looking to sell their 3DC-100S? Please pm if you do. Thanks.
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post #238 of 242 Old 06-21-2012, 02:17 PM
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You don't actually need to buy the 3DC-100S - if you get one of the plain old Mits adapter that falls between certain manufacturer dates, you can just reset it.

Check out the "Mits 3DA-1 stopped working on my Samsung" thread - post 11 is where I figured out that you can just remove EDID restrictions from the adapter. No opening it up, no EDID modifications - It's a few simple button pushes on the adapter itself.
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post #239 of 242 Old 06-21-2012, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Justin-Dawson View Post

You don't actually need to buy the 3DC-100S - if you get one of the plain old Mits adapter that falls between certain manufacturer dates, you can just reset it.
Check out the "Mits 3DA-1 stopped working on my Samsung" thread - post 11 is where I figured out that you can just remove EDID restrictions from the adapter. No opening it up, no EDID modifications - It's a few simple button pushes on the adapter itself.

Holey Moley that's awesome. I just read through the whole thread! Now I need to find a good used one, prior to Jan 2011. It's slim pickings on eBay and amazon. Thanks Justin!
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post #240 of 242 Old 06-21-2012, 05:30 PM
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So GEP, or anyone else who can help, I've conducted some further experimentation. When the adapter is ON, and I click "display" on the Onkyo remote, the audio input is listed as ANALOG, and no sound comes through. When the adapter is OFF, and I click "display," the audio is listed as "PCM," and the audio comes through perfectly. Does anyone know why the adapter would fool the receiver into thinking it was receiving an analog input? And any suggestions for overriding that?

UPDATE: It's definitely to do with the adapter. I plugged the receiver out HDMI cable directly into the HDMI3/DVI port on the TV, and the audio came through fine (NOT SUPPORTED MODE on the picture, of course). Is it possible I have a bad adapter?
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