Sony HMZ-T2 Personal 3D Viewer HMD Dedicated Thread - Page 38 - AVS Forum
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post #1111 of 1138 Old 09-11-2013, 06:24 AM
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We should be taking all T3-related discussion to this thread.
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post #1112 of 1138 Old 09-14-2013, 04:50 AM
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Well I've got my blazin 3d cushion set and the pitch black scarf and foreheadpad and it is a complete waste of my money. It is absolutely impossible to get a good fit with these things atached if you have a head like mine (59cm around) though the cushions are made with craftmanship they just won't stick on my head because they make the hmz glide al over the place. The rubber bands of the hmz tend to stick to your hair making the hmz stay in one place but that unfortunately isn't the case with the cushions attached. Big disappointment. The pitxh black scarf makes the oled screen turn foggy as soon as you put it over the hmz making it impossible to get a clear view. I really can't understand all the positive feedback these cushions have gotten on this thread because for me they absolutely don't work. I've tried every possible configuration imaginable for three days now but no matter how I put them on it won't work. Maybe if you have an tiny head it will fit but for people with my size of head I can't see these things work. This sucks big time because I love the immersive feel the hmz gives me but the lack of comfort is really big. So for anyone with a head bigger then say 55cm I would think twice before spending your money on this.
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post #1113 of 1138 Old 09-15-2013, 02:29 PM
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Hi
I have HMZt2 works all good
But in some media files there is no sound output inspite of normal image
I took Audio info By Media Info from one of these Files

Audio
ID : 2
Format : AAC
Format/Info : Advanced Audio Codec
Format profile : LC
Codec ID : 40
Duration : 20mn 0s
Bit rate mode : Variable
Bit rate : 192 Kbps
Maximum bit rate : 201 Kbps
Channel(s) : 2 channels
Channel positions : Front: L R
Sampling rate : 44.1 KHz
Compression mode : Lossy
Stream size : 27.5 MiB (4%)

Any Help in this
Thanks in advance
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post #1114 of 1138 Old 09-18-2013, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomzah View Post

I finally got my FPV (first person view) airplane up using the T2 . The system works very good with no noticable lag.

And how does your setup cope with video noise/dropouts?
My setup is ready too, great image quality and no noticeable lag, but the noise caused by the RF video link will occasionally cause blackouts that can last a couple of seconds which is obviously unacceptable.

With no powered transmitter I get analog "snow" in the goggles which is perfect as opposed to the blue screen some converters will give, however it still seems the converter will switch mode or whatever when it loses/regains sync, which causes the T2 to also drop and redetect the signal.

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post #1115 of 1138 Old 09-18-2013, 03:09 PM
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The gefen upscaler has some problems also. It will hang in there with noise/ fluttering video and as long as there are sync pulses detected in the noise. So it will continue to pass noise and a scrambled signal to the T2. With total noise it will go to a black screen in 2 seconds. Recovery time is 3 seconds. So it does well until there is a total loss of signal. I put a call into Gefen (the manufacturer) tech support. There may be a chance a tech could help me defeat the LOS screen.
When the Gefen loses composite signal it still outputs good HDMI to the T2. So there is no reset time for the Sony.
The big dropout is occuring at long distance only. I fly close in <400 meters so its not a factor yet.

What camera are you using? I have the PZ4020 and it exhibits an effect similar to ringing between bright and dark rapid transitions. Although only one ring is present, it reallty has a negative effect on the resolution.

The only other goggle I have used is the HeadPlay. The T2 setup costs twice what the best Fatshark costs. The T2 blows the Headplay away and many think the HP is better than the Sharks..
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post #1116 of 1138 Old 09-18-2013, 11:52 PM
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I've currently only tested in the air with a GoPro 3, and on the ground with a DV camcorder as the source.
Ringing is often a problem with the RF link like mismatched impedance or video level.

I took my HDMI converter apart and it interestingly uses a set of fairly simple chips with available documentation, that are all configured by a socketed microcontroller over a single I2C bus. If I find time I might try to take the uC out and replicate / optimize the config using an arduino to see if I can do things better by forcing a particular well suited mode.

The T1/T2 are definitely way above anything I've tried (includes at least a dozen models over the years). Just need to get them to work in out setup...

In the meantime they proved to be awesome as a monitor for a Cineflex shooting last week biggrin.gif
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post #1117 of 1138 Old 09-19-2013, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kilrah View Post

And how does your setup cope with video noise/dropouts?
My setup is ready too, great image quality and no noticeable lag, but the noise caused by the RF video link will occasionally cause blackouts that can last a couple of seconds which is obviously unacceptable.

With no powered transmitter I get analog "snow" in the goggles which is perfect as opposed to the blue screen some converters will give, however it still seems the converter will switch mode or whatever when it loses/regains sync, which causes the T2 to also drop and redetect the signal.


u think its perhaps its coz your rx is so close to the upscaler ?
or will distance not make a difference?
(im still waiting on my upscaler... it takes alot of negotiation to get registered shipping to south africa ;p )
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post #1118 of 1138 Old 09-19-2013, 01:29 PM
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Distance is irrelevant.
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post #1120 of 1138 Old 09-24-2013, 03:01 AM
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Hi I have a question as regards hmzt2
Does it support audio format AAC (2.0)
Or only DTS & DOLBY ??
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post #1121 of 1138 Old 09-24-2013, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minawahid View Post

Hi I have a question as regards hmzt2
Does it support audio format AAC (2.0)
Or only DTS & DOLBY ??
AAC- Yes.
Dolby Digital- Yes.
DTS- No.
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post #1122 of 1138 Old 12-07-2013, 03:31 PM
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My HMZ-T2 has trouble starting up for the last three months. I would need to press the power button three or four times for it to turn on, it would turn on and then off after a minute or so. But it would still turn on eventually on occasion it would turn off in the middle of use. But a few days ago, it actually turn off like 10 minutes into a movie I was watching and I can't turn it back on ever since.

Every time I turn it on, it would go green light then back to stand by after seconds or if I am lucky a few minutes. the HDMI passthrough still work though.

The Sony Center that I bought it from has closed down a few months ago, if not I would have taken it back there before warranty is gone. There is another Sony Center but not close by to where I live.

Anyone know of a quick fix to this problem ? I look up at the manual regarding overheating, faults, but the red light isn't blinking, it just shuts off. Can Sony Center fix this ?

I'm also thinking of picking up HMZ-T3 from the Sony Center, but for some strange reason they only sell HMZ-T3W, the wireless version for $1500. They don't sell the cheaper HMZ-T3. If I don't get the service from Sony Center for my T2, I might as well buy my T3 online where it's cheaper.

Now I just got to find the time to drive there.
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post #1123 of 1138 Old 12-08-2013, 01:05 AM
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Hmm, I was seeing that when my hacked power supply was bad. I'd suspect the power supply board has some issues.
Why not just arrange a warranty repair online? Nothing's tied to physical retail points anymore nowadays, and I'd doubt shipping and return amounts to what you'd lose with a total loss wink.gif
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post #1124 of 1138 Old 12-08-2013, 02:02 PM
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That's the thing I don't know how. Sony Australia site doesn't have instructions on warranty repair done through online, not for HMZ-T2 anyway.

I've email the other Sony Center that's still open, they are actually one of the service center in Australia. They haven't reply back, I hope they can fix it. My hunch is the power on/off button is faulty. I think it's a bit jam. Mine has become kinda hard to press. Last night I actually managed to turn it on again by pressing really hard on the power button with my nail, but it turns off after 15 minutes or so. So my guess is I have a sort of stuck power button.

But I won't rule out power supply either. What was wrong with the power supply from your investigation ? My processor unit is still on, the HDMI passthrough is still working. When I press the power button, the light went green and red and and back standby again. I don't hear the click from the processor unit. This been happening for the last two-three months. But normally I can get it started eventually if I press the power button enough times, I eventually see green light and a click from the processor unit.

If I open it myself is power on/off button easy to repair ?

Thanks.
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post #1125 of 1138 Old 12-09-2013, 12:34 AM
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If you read my posts earlier in this thread I've converted my T2 to run on battery power. This required a step down converter to supply the right voltage from the battery, and the first one I had resulted in pretty much the same behavior as you. Seems its output voltage wasn't stable enough. The new one I put in is reliable.

The power button isn't really easy to repair, it's already quite a bit of work to take the headset apart, then the part itself is welded (it's basically an FPC sandwitched between the plastic button assembly and a metal backing plate, as you can see the lot is held by molten plastic posts.



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post #1126 of 1138 Old 12-09-2013, 04:26 AM
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Wow you did that ? That's awesome. I don't think I have the skill to do that. And looking at that power button, there is no way I can self repair.

I do have a really expensive power supply that I can adjust the voltage and stuff to supply power, how easy is it to replace the power supply unit ?

Anyway I was told to contact Sony Australia. I'm hoping the repair shop is local or in my city instead of me having to ship this unit around. I don't even have the box anymore.

I missed my unit so much. Watching movie on TV just doesn't feel the same. Anyway at this point I think I just have to buy the HMZ-T3, while this one is getting repair.

I was thinking of buying the T3 since its announcement, but man $1500 it's like $500 price hike from T2, what in the world did they improved that demand such a price hike?

Does T3 have the same shoddy power supply ?
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post #1127 of 1138 Old 12-09-2013, 04:59 AM
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Just open up the black metal box and on the connector that joins the 2 circuit boards put a volt meter across the first and last pin of the connector. You should read 5.6vdc if the supply is good. Do this simple test first.
Tp
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post #1128 of 1138 Old 12-10-2013, 06:49 AM
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Thanks for the info, I'll open it up once I get a bit more info from Sony Center and they say they will have a look at the unit. But they have to send it off to get it fix, if it has problem.

I've been playing around with it some more, now I discover that if I have my source off, that is no signal, the unit seems to turn on no problem, but once I turn on my source eg PS3 or my bluray player, the unit just shuts down. So receiving signal seems to turn it off. It was on for awhile I even managed to reset it to factory setting. But then I turn it off, I tried to turn it on again to no avail even with the HDMI cable disconnected. So sad. My hunch now is the power supply had crap out or not supplying enough voltage for everything to function properly. I might try different power point, maybe tomorrow.

The good news, they say they have stock on HMZ-T3, the bad news is its the wireless units and its going to be expensive. I probably better off asking in the HMZ-T3 thread, but can the wireless unit not be used ? That is can you use wired connection from processor to HMD? Do they supply the cable? I don't mind having the wireless unit, but I prefer wired since I already setup my unit so the wired is no problem.
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post #1129 of 1138 Old 12-21-2013, 10:46 AM
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I recently bought a HMZ-T2 from eBay partly inspired from the thread. Good information in here. I knew I could use UK voltage for example

First impressions, I love the picture quality. I can get the sweet spot ok although I didn't the first time. As others have said I find it a bit heavy on the forehead . I will look at trying to add some Velcro or something. I'll post back with further thoughts if anyone is interested

But first a question if that's ok.

I'm a bit unclear about the DD 5.1. Does this support it directly or simulate it? The manual is no use. I thought it would take a 5.1 signal and software would deliver that to the headphones. I already have a turtle beach processor that does exactly that.

How do you get a 5.1 signal into it? My LG Bluray player outputs 5.1 through hdmi I thought but it only shows 2.0 on screen

Thanks for any advice. I'm sure I'll find out more and more as I get to know it more!
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post #1130 of 1138 Old 12-21-2013, 11:51 AM
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Don't forget that you might need to choose the 5.1 track on the Bluray's menu.

But TBH I don't think it makes much sense feeding the T2 with 5.1 as its only gonna downconvert it to 2.0 for the stereo headphone jack...
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post #1131 of 1138 Old 12-21-2013, 12:03 PM
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@ kilrah
Got my 720p Dvb-t @1.5 watts out streaming to my hmz-t2. So far just bench testing. I hope it works in the field.....
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post #1132 of 1138 Old 12-21-2013, 01:24 PM
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Woohoo! Got a link?

Still waiting for my Transporter3D, should be there in 2-3 weeks. All the rest is ready. Been watching a couple of movies in my bed when I was ill in the meantime...
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post #1133 of 1138 Old 12-21-2013, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

My DIY velcro strap.




After 30 minutes of usage...no red patch on my forehead. Yay!
After 2 hours of usage...watching Drive (2011)... still no red patch on forehead. Yay!

Would you mind sharing where you got the Velcro from and some brief instructions? It doesn't look too difficult though (hopefully!)

I have had a look around but can't find anything although I don't really know what I'm looking for

Thanks
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post #1134 of 1138 Old 12-21-2013, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kilrah View Post

Woohoo! Got a link?

Still waiting for my Transporter3D, should be there in 2-3 weeks.KAll the rest is ready. Been watcOkhing a couple of movies in my bed when I was ill in the meantime...

Ok here is my new thread on RCG. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2060567
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post #1135 of 1138 Old 12-23-2013, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pd555 View Post

Would you mind sharing where you got the Velcro from and some brief instructions? It doesn't look too difficult though (hopefully!)

I have had a look around but can't find anything although I don't really know what I'm looking for

Thanks
You can get velcro easily from any hardware store. Make sure you get velcro strips with 2 different surface, one with the soft fluffy surface and the other mating part with the rough surface. DIY the combo as you like.
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post #1136 of 1138 Old 12-23-2013, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post


You can get velcro easily from any hardware store. Make sure you get velcro strips with 2 different surface, one with the soft fluffy surface and the other mating part with the rough surface. DIY the combo as you like.

 

Thanks for the info. I will have a look when the shops quieten down!

 

Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays

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post #1137 of 1138 Old 03-10-2014, 06:29 AM
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ping....
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post #1138 of 1138 Old 03-11-2014, 02:10 PM
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Is there any way of extending the hmd cable between the headset and the box?
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