3d on Mitsubishi TV - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 34 Old 12-16-2011, 01:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi all,

Can someone point me in the right direction? I hear the mitsubishi 3d kit is crap, and I should get some DLP Link glasses is that still true?

Can you recommend some good rechargeable 3d glasses for a decent price? I found TONS on amazon, but would like an informed decision on what features to look for etc.

Any help please?
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post #2 of 34 Old 12-17-2011, 04:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozorowsky View Post

Hi all,

Can someone point me in the right direction? I hear the mitsubishi 3d kit is crap, and I should get some DLP Link glasses is that still true?

Can you recommend some good rechargeable 3d glasses for a decent price? I found TONS on amazon, but would like an informed decision on what features to look for etc.

Any help please?

The best advice I can give you is to take everything you just posted, read it as opposite, and believe that.

The Mitsubishi 3D kit is perfectly fine.

I (by far) prefer IR emitter

Rechargeable glasses are not as nice as you think. Imagine watching a movie with a few friends. Their glasses die. Are you going to stop the movie for everyone so their glasses can charge? If you have the glasses with batteries you can quickly replace a battery. I bought 25 for $5 and have only gone through 2 in a year.
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post #3 of 34 Old 12-19-2011, 06:38 AM
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Depends on the tv you have. If you have a 2009 or older tv 3d on IR glasses will look like crap and you will want DLP Link glasses.
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post #4 of 34 Old 12-21-2011, 11:22 AM
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Mitsubishi offers the 3D signal adatper in two forms.

1. 3D Starter Kit - 3DC-1000 comes with signal adapter and accessories for the adatper. 2 pair of battery operated IR glasses and one IR emitter.
2. 3D Adapter - 3DA-1 just the signal adapter and accessories for the adatper - no glasses.

Take you pick of what best suits your needs. But if you have one of the TVs that requires only a checkerboard 3D signal, you need one of the two for all sources that do not provide a checkerboard 3D signal (most of them).

If your TV is newer and is a full 3D TV (instead of 3D Ready), then you do not need the 3D adapter, just glasses and if those glasses are IR or RF you might need the emitter/transmitter.
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post #5 of 34 Old 01-16-2012, 02:00 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm sorry for the delay everyone, but my TV is a Mitsubishi WD-73C9 if that helps; this is the "older tv" correct?

What exactly are DLP Link glasses?

Thank you
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post #6 of 34 Old 01-16-2012, 02:55 PM
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Seems the older model for sure. The problem with them as reported? You can't turn off DLP Link sync in the display when using IR or RF glasses. So you pretty much have to use DLP Link.

DLP Link is built into the display DMD or chip if you will. Works decent enough, I had some range issues with it though.
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post #7 of 34 Old 01-16-2012, 02:56 PM
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PS: The Mistubishi kits are real good. Easy to get up and running. Generally one of the better options for Mitsubishi 3D Ready displays.
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post #8 of 34 Old 01-16-2012, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozorowsky View Post

I'm sorry for the delay everyone, but my TV is a Mitsubishi WD-73C9 if that helps; this is the "older tv" correct?

What exactly are DLP Link glasses?

Thank you

As said before "DLP Link" has a special flash in the picture that is used to sync the active part of the active shutter glassses to the way the TV displays 3D. Other methods are IR (infrared light pluses) from an emitter or RF (radio frequency like Bluetooth) from a transmitter.

The good part is all Mitsubishi 3D Ready DLP TVs (older like yours) and current 3D DLP TVs (the current models) support all brands of glasses marketed as "DLP Link". That is because "DLP Link" has a standard.

There are several brands of DLP Link glasses, others here have opinions on the best.
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post #9 of 34 Old 01-17-2012, 08:24 AM
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I was having some range issues for whatever reason in my living room with all DLP link glasses. I switched to RF emitter / glasses and we are much happier with it now.
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post #10 of 34 Old 01-21-2012, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNnDENVER View Post

I was having some range issues for whatever reason in my living room with all DLP link glasses. I switched to RF emitter / glasses and we are much happier with it now.

John, are you suggesting I get the mitsubishi kit and then some glasses to go along with it?

I would truly appreciate a first-hand opinion; I want glasses that are rechargeable so that I don't have to go buying batteries.

I'm torn on whether to get dlp link or the IR emitter glasses. I went to best buy to see if they have dlp link glasses I could try and the dumb guy went on to telling me dlp is an older technology just buy a new tv yada yada.

So this is the only place I know to turn. can you share your experience/opinions on what glasses to get, where to get them etc?

I'm ready to buy just don't wnat to make a bad choice.

Thank you all for your time.
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post #11 of 34 Old 01-22-2012, 08:18 AM
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Some guys over in 3D tech forum, testing newly available $40 DLP Link glasses. If those tests pan out? I'd get those as the cheapest way to get excellent 3D performance PQ wise.

The best overall? I have tried pretty many different glasses and emiiters? RF emitter and glasses are by far my preference. No sync issues with infinant range. My DLP link glasses produce great PQ, but they work well in the theater but did not work well for me in the living room on the Mitsu.
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post #12 of 34 Old 01-22-2012, 04:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNnDENVER View Post

Some guys over in 3D tech forum, testing newly available $40 DLP Link glasses. If those tests pan out? I'd get those as the cheapest way to get excellent 3D performance PQ wise.

The best overall? I have tried pretty many different glasses and emiiters? RF emitter and glasses are by far my preference. No sync issues with infinant range. My DLP link glasses produce great PQ, but they work well in the theater but did not work well for me in the living room on the Mitsu.

John,

What do you mean the DLP Link work well in the theater??

What all would I need to get RF Emitter glasses? My tv doesn't come with the built in 3-D function so I will need to purchase an add on emitter any way I look at it right?
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post #13 of 34 Old 01-22-2012, 04:34 PM
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DLP link is an emitter built into the screen itself you need DLP link glasses to use it.
You need the 3DA-1 adapter to convert most 3D formats to Checkerboard which your 3D Ready TV will accept.
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post #14 of 34 Old 01-23-2012, 12:42 PM
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Your Mistubishi has a VESA port. We switched to Optoma / Monster Vision RF emitter and glasses. They work perfectly plugged into the Mitsu VESA port.

DLP Link indeed does not need an emitter.

As far as the theater goes? We have two 3D setups. One in the living room (Mitsubishi) and one on our dedicated theater. 110" Optoma 3D projector setup.
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post #15 of 34 Old 01-24-2012, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNnDENVER View Post

Your Mistubishi has a VESA port. We switched to Optoma / Monster Vision RF emitter and glasses. They work perfectly plugged into the Mitsu VESA port.

DLP Link indeed does not need an emitter.

As far as the theater goes? We have two 3D setups. One in the living room (Mitsubishi) and one on our dedicated theater. 110" Optoma 3D projector setup.

John,

Thank you for sharing your experience. Are you saying I should get this: http://www.amazon.com/MonsterVision-...7417814&sr=1-3 plus a few extra pairs of these glasses?
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post #16 of 34 Old 01-24-2012, 01:01 PM
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Yes, but only because we had range issues with DLP Link in our lving room with our display. Others seem perfectly fine with DLP Link on their Mitsu DLP RP's.

But the RF glasses have the best sync of anything out there.
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post #17 of 34 Old 01-24-2012, 01:32 PM - Thread Starter
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So if I go with DLP Link I won't need an emitter but if I go with the IR glasses, I need to buy the emitter and some glasses right?

Any features I should look for/watch out for?

Only thing I know I want is rechargeable batteries.

Thank you for all your help
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post #18 of 34 Old 01-24-2012, 02:02 PM
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RF / IR both need an emitter. basically anything that does not have an emitter or emitting system built in will require and emitter.
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post #19 of 34 Old 01-26-2012, 07:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey John and all reading,

I have been giving some thought to this. Let me say I really want to go 3d but am a little overwhelmed. Now I'm a computer guy, know programming and networking so I'm no novice when it comes to electronics, I just don't know enough about this 3d technology.

My current setup is an Onkyo Rc-160 receiver. Everything runs to that via HDMI, and then from there to my tv via one single HDMI. That said, if I get the 3dA-1 stand alone adapter, would I be able to go everything via HDMI to my receiver to the 3DA-1 adapter to my TV?

Also will 3d to normal viewing modes switch automatically or will I have to change tv settings every time I want to watch something in 3d?

If I get DLP Link glasses will I still need an emitter?

Lastly, I am reading the viewsonic/optoma glasses are the choice glasses for these tv's; is that old news or is there a latest and greats for the $ I should be considering? I want something that feels comfortable like wearing a pair of sunglasses.

Sorry for being a pain with all the questions thank you for being patient with me.
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post #20 of 34 Old 01-27-2012, 01:28 PM - Thread Starter
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ok so I think I'm going to buy this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-3...item2a18961bab

I'm really confused which glasses to buy though. Any help please? I want rechargeable, but what are some *affordable* quality glasses? I am going to need 4 pairs for starters, then upgrade that to maybe 6 before long.

Thank you
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post #21 of 34 Old 01-27-2012, 05:39 PM
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1. For your AV Reciever - Onkyo HT-RC160 (if that is the full model number of your model) does NOT list 3D pass-thru. For 3D Blu-rays, you must have an AV Receiver that LISTS 3D compatiblity. If it is not listed it is not compatible with 3D Blu-rays. For other sources such as Cable Boxes or Satellite receivers, they may required the formal HDMI 3D compatiblity EDID (HDMI handshake). If they do, your AV Receiver cannot supply that so these sources will not send a 3D signal. If the sources do not require the formal handshake AND they send "frame compatible" top/bottom or side-by-side 3D signals, these MIGHT pass through your AV Receiver OK - however that is a LOT OF IFs but the short of it is you most likely will need to by-pass your AV Reciever.

2. The 3DA-1 will automatically start "adapting" or "converting" 3D signals that formally follow the HDMI 3D signal types. However you still need to turn on the 3D mode in the TV. To see 3D, the 3D mode in both the TV and the Adapter need to be ON and the adapter cannot turn on the TV's 3D mode, you need to do that yourself. At the end of the 3D signal the adapter automatically returns to 2D but you need to turn off the 3D mode in the TV yourself.

If the signal is does not fomally follow the HDMI 3D specifications but is a compatible Top-Bottom or Side-by-side signal, you will need to manually turn on the correct 3D mode in the adapter and still turn on the 3D mode in the TV. And at the end of the 3D signal you need to manually turn of the 3D mode in both the TV and the adpater.

3. DLP Link glasses DO NOT NEED an emitter. The DLP Link emitter is built in to the TV and turns on when the 3D mode in the TV is turned on. All other types of glasses DO NEED an emitter. People suggest DLP Link because your TV will show the DLP Link flash (that is the built-in emitter) whenever you turn on 3D in the TV. The flash may cause the black area to look lighter (not black) and tint the picture oddly. Most DLP Link glasses have both lenses shut durning the flash so these negatives do not show up. However in some environments that have conflicting lighting, the glasses may be limited in distance range.

While you can use both DLP Link and emitter glasses at the same time, often the correct "Glasses L-R" setting in the TV menu is different between the two different types so one type or the other will always be wrong (it is best to stick to one type of glasses). Also the odd tint may also show in emitter based glasses.

4. Rechargable glasses do not need battery repalcement but if the charge is used up before the end of your program, you need to stop the program for the length of time it takes to recharge the glasses. Replaceable batteries cost a little more (not really a lot) and if you have back ups, it only takes a couple of minutes to replace the batteries.

In short you are going to need to make up your own mind here, you need to weigh the pluses and minuses for yourself - "one size (answer) does not fit all".
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post #22 of 34 Old 01-27-2012, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozorowsky View Post

ok so I think I'm going to buy this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-3...item2a18961bab

I'm really confused which glasses to buy though. Any help please? I want rechargeable, but what are some *affordable* quality glasses? I am going to need 4 pairs for starters, then upgrade that to maybe 6 before long.

Thank you

If your only planing on watching 3d Blurays and don't have a 3D player yet pick up one of the Panasonic's (BDT110/210 or310) and you can set it's 3D output to checkerboard, NO 3DA-1 adapter needed and 3d checkerboard WILL pass through the Onkyo receiver if it's 1.3. I have an Onkyo 670 (1.3) and checkerboard or side-by-side 3D travel through it just fine. I have 2 Mits IR, 2 UltraClear IR (these 4 pr. battery operated) and 1 child's UC rechargable IR pr. for sale and the emitter but to be honest you might prefer the DLP ones if your Mits is a 2008 or 2009 model. You can't turn off DLP on those and you do get a blue/green tint instead of black on those when using IR. I had it on my 73736 (2008) but it really didn't bother us that much. I actually prefer battery ones because the batteries are CHEAP, they last a long time and you can change 'em if needed in a minute without waiting for a recharge. I'll sell all 5 pr. with emitter for $175. The UltraClear DLP glasses also got good reviews here so check those out if you go with DLP--just do a search for Ultra Clear. 1i beleive they are $50 @ pr. plus shipping.
We recently got an Epson 3010 3D projector (LOVE it) and won't be using the Mits for 3D any more & those glasses aren't compatible with the Epson.
Hope this helps.

Ed
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post #23 of 34 Old 01-28-2012, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter
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The 3d sources I plan to watch are from my ps3 and my cable 3d channels. Wil I also be able to play ps3 games in 3d?

I also have a harmony remote. Will I be able to set a scene to auto set my tv to 3d etc? That would be my one major deterrent to 3d if I have to change a bunch of stuff every time I want to watch 3d.

regarding dlp link I read the newer mits models dont need an adapter but older ones do. is that referring to ir only or dlp link as well? won't I need adapter even if I go dlp link route?

I'm very interested in your offer. Could you post pics of the glasses? I'm going to look them up.

A side question here. Dint projectors look grainy?i like the surreal clear glossy look of high def. Every time I hear projector I can't picture them looking super clear. Am I wrong?

Thank you again for all the advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by old corps View Post

If your only planing on watching 3d Blurays and don't have a 3D player yet pick up one of the Panasonic's (BDT110/210 or310) and you can set it's 3D output to checkerboard, NO 3DA-1 adapter needed and 3d checkerboard WILL pass through the Onkyo receiver if it's 1.3. I have an Onkyo 670 (1.3) and checkerboard or side-by-side 3D travel through it just fine. I have 2 Mits IR, 2 UltraClear IR (these 4 pr. battery operated) and 1 child's UC rechargable IR pr. for sale and the emitter but to be honest you might prefer the DLP ones if your Mits is a 2008 or 2009 model. You can't turn off DLP on those and you do get a blue/green tint instead of black on those when using IR. I had it on my 73736 (2008) but it really dlidn't bother us that much. I actually prefer battery ones because the batteries are CHEAP, they last a long time and you can change 'em if needed in a minute without waiting for a recharge. I'll sell all 5 pr. with emitter for $175. The UltraClear DLP glasses also got good reviews here so check those out if you go with DLP--just do a search for Ultra Clear. 1i beleive they are $50 @ pr. plus shipping.
We recently got an Epson 3010 3D projector (LOVE it) and won't be using the Mits for 3D any more & those glasses aren't compatible with the Epson.
Hope this helps.

Ed

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post #24 of 34 Old 01-28-2012, 09:22 AM
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[quote=ozorowsky;21561050]The 3d sources I plan to watch are from my ps3 and my cable 3d channels. Wil I also be able to play ps3 games in 3d?

I also have a harmony remote. Will I be able to set a scene to auto set my tv to 3d etc? That would be my one major deterrent to 3d if I have to change a bunch of stuff every time I want to watch 3d.

regarding dlp link I read the newer mits models dont need an adapter but older ones do. is that referring to ir only or dlp link as well? won't I need adapter even if I go dlp link route?

I'm very interested in your offer. Could you post pics of the glasses? I'm going to look them up.

A side question here. Dint projectors look grainy?i like the surreal clear glossy look of high def. Every time I hear projector I can't picture them looking super clear. Am I wrong?

Thank you again for all the advice

[center]


http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/dlp3dwiglfis.html

These are the UC adult glasses that I have. You can also find the IR children's pair here (rechargeable). The other 2 pr. I have are the Mitsubishi IR 3d glasses plus the Mits emitter & cable that works with all 5 pr. of glasses. I'm not familiar with your TV model but as I understand it 2010 and later models do not need the adapter. Early 2010 models needed new software downloaded. The newer models have the ability to use any 3d mode without the adapter. If yours is a 2008 or 2009 model you WILL need the 3DA-1 adapter to comvert the 3D mode to checkerboard for your PS3.
The picture from my Epson 3010 3D pj is outstanding in both 2D and 3D. NOTHING grainy and very clear, bright and excellent color. In regard to your Harmony remote I'm not certain but it's seems like you could probably set a series of macros to switch the TV to 3D mode. It's really not that big of a deal to do manually.
Hope this is helpful.

Ed

BTW, these glasses WILL work with the newer Mits TVs with the emitter. The info on UCs website was a bit confusing regarding this.
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post #25 of 34 Old 01-28-2012, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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do they make rf 3d glasses?

What I'm reading so far is dlp link is better clarity but ir has better range is that right?

Worst case how much would you want for just the emitter and the ultra glasses?
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post #26 of 34 Old 01-28-2012, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozorowsky View Post

do they make rf 3d glasses?

What I'm reading so far is dlp link is better clarity but ir has better range is that right?

Worst case how much would you want for just the emitter and the ultra glasses?

I don't believe they make rf ones. I gave you the link to their site, did you look???
I haven't used dlp link glasses so I can't comment on thier performance. Like I said before, the 2008 & 2009 models do not have the ability to turn off DLP so you get a greenish/blue tint to the picture when using IR glasses. It wasn't a big deal to us, the 3D still looked great. I bought the whole kit shortly after it was available and the Mits glasses were IR so when I got more I stayed with IR. That and the fact that you didn't need an emitter was why some preferred the DLP ones. Others prefer IR ones because of synch or range issues.
Your mileage may vary.
I really want to sell all 5 pair of glasses + emitter & cable as a bundle and priced them @ $175 to sell them that way. You asked about the UC glasses so I'm guessing you mean those 3 pair (2 adult/battery & 1 child's/rechargeable) and the emitter/cable. I'd sell you those for $125 + shipping--$10 priority mail/insured/delivery confirmation. I'd cover the shipping if you took all 5 pr. All of the glasses work great and never had a problem with them. Actually never used them enough to change batteries & the kid's pr. were used ONCE.
I'm gonna put them on ebay soon so let me know. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Ed

BTW, just curious where you are located? I'm in Michigan.
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post #27 of 34 Old 01-29-2012, 07:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old corps View Post

I don't believe they make rf ones. I gave you the link to their site, did you look???
I haven't used dlp link glasses so I can't comment on thier performance. Like I said before, the 2008 & 2009 models do not have the ability to turn off DLP so you get a greenish/blue tint to the picture when using IR glasses. It wasn't a big deal to us, the 3D still looked great. I bought the whole kit shortly after it was available and the Mits glasses were IR so when I got more I stayed with IR. That and the fact that you didn't need an emitter was why some preferred the DLP ones. Others prefer IR ones because of synch or range issues.
Your mileage may vary.
I really want to sell all 5 pair of glasses + emitter & cable as a bundle and priced them @ $175 to sell them that way. You asked about the UC glasses so I'm guessing you mean those 3 pair (2 adult/battery & 1 child's/rechargeable) and the emitter/cable. I'd sell you those for $125 + shipping--$10 priority mail/insured/delivery confirmation. I'd cover the shipping if you took all 5 pr. All of the glasses work great and never had a problem with them. Actually never used them enough to change batteries & the kid's pr. were used ONCE.
I'm gonna put them on ebay soon so let me know. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Ed

BTW, just curious where you are located? I'm in Michigan.

Hey Ed,

Yes I looked at the site you linked me.

I'm in Tampa, FL.

I am going to have to decline your offer here because I really want rechargeable glasses.

Thank you for the offer and your advice though. It is much appreciated.
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post #28 of 34 Old 01-29-2012, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ozorowsky View Post

Hey Ed,

Yes I looked at the site you linked me.

I'm in Tampa, FL.

I am going to have to decline your offer here because I really want rechargeable glasses.

Thank you for the offer and your advice though. It is much appreciated.

No problem at all, thanks for letting me know. Can't imagine why rechargeabe glasses are so important to you but that's MY opinion. You have to get what YOU want. I'm sure they will sell quickly on ebay. Best of luck!

Ed
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post #29 of 34 Old 01-30-2012, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ozorowsky View Post

The 3d sources I plan to watch are from my ps3 and my cable 3d channels. Wil I also be able to play ps3 games in 3d?

I also have a harmony remote. Will I be able to set a scene to auto set my tv to 3d etc? That would be my one major deterrent to 3d if I have to change a bunch of stuff every time I want to watch 3d.

regarding dlp link I read the newer mits models dont need an adapter but older ones do. is that referring to ir only or dlp link as well? won't I need adapter even if I go dlp link route?

I'm very interested in your offer. Could you post pics of the glasses? I'm going to look them up.

A side question here. Dint projectors look grainy?i like the surreal clear glossy look of high def. Every time I hear projector I can't picture them looking super clear. Am I wrong?

Thank you again for all the advice

You have confused the purpose of the adapter. The adpater converts the 3D Signal Format to checkerboard 3D signal format. The 3DA-1 adapter is NOT about the glasses, it is about 3D signal format.

The DLP TV requires a checkerboard 3D signal format. However this is not "most common" format to send a 3D signal. The "most common" types of 3D signal formats are:
1. Frame Packing - a single frame which is a super sized frame that has two full resolution images in the same frame. All 3D Blu-ray are able to send this type of 3D signal. This is what your PS3 sends.
2. Side-by-side - a single frame which is a normal sized frame that has two half resolution images in the same frame. Most cable boxes send this type of signal for movies.
3. Top-bottom (aka over/under) - a single frame which is a normal sized frame that has two half resolution images in the same frame. Many cable boxes send this type for ESPN 3D.

Checkerboard 3D Signal Format is not a "most common". A few Panasonic and OPPO 3D Blu-ray players can send checkerboard 3D but the majority of other brands cannot. I have never heard of any cable box or satellite receiver that can send checkerboard 3D. For devices that cannot send checkerboard 3D signal format, you need the 3DA-1 adapter.

All 3D TVs will convert the signals that they can accept into a display system that matches the TV type (the way the TV displays the 3D). The "most common" standard display systems are:

1. Frame Sequential - first shows a full frame for the left eye and then shows a full frame for the right eye. Normally the frames are changed 120 times a second, for 60 frames a second for each eye. This system requires active shutter glasses that will "actively" block one eye at a time to match the frame on screen. The right eye is blocked while the screen shows the left eye view and then the left eye is blocked while the screen show the right eye view. This is how 3D plasmas work and LED LCDs that use Active Shutter Glasses.

2. Line Interleave - this is when one frame is shown that has the information for both eye views. The odd numbers horizontal lines of the picture are the left eye view while the even number horizontal lines of the picture are the right eye view. Then the screen has a special polarizing flim that gives two different light polarizations to the lines, one for all the left lines and the other for all the right lines. These are then matched with passive glasses that have polarized lenses, different polarization for each eye. So the left eye only sees the even numbered lines while watching 3D and never the odd lines. The right eye sees only the odd lines and not the even lines (each eye sees half of the lines, never all of the lines). In 2D, you do not use the glasses so both eyes see all of the lines.

3. Checkerboard - this is where the full frame for the left eye is divided into half of the pixels arrayed like the red squares of a checkerboard and the right eye is half of the pixels arrayed like the black squares, however the TV displays only one eye view at a time alternating between each eye view 120 times a second (again each eye 60 times per second). This is the way all DLP Rear projection TVs (yours this) display 3D. Active Shutter Glasses are required.

As said before, Active Shutter Glasses block one eye while allowing the other eye to see and then they reverse. This switching normally happens 120 times a second. However for 3D to look correct, the eye that can see needs to match which eye view is being shown on screen in other words the glasses need to synchronized to the display. There are three methods to do this, "DLP Link", "IR", and "RF". The TV has the "DLP Link" built in, it has a connector on the back to connect an "IR" emitter or "RF" transmitter (yes Monster make "RF" glasses and transmitter you can connect to the TV). The 3DA-1 adapter does not change anything in relation to the type of compatible glasses. The adapter has a pass-thru for the IR emitter or RF transmitter but this seems to be only so the adapter can remind you to turn turn on the 3D mode in the TV when the adapter is sending a 3D signal to the TV. People are suggesting "DLP Link" glasses because you do not need to add an emitter or transmitter.

For your Harmony remote to auto switch your TV into and out of the 3D mode, your TV needs to have dedicated special remote control commands that say "3D ON" and "3D OFF". The same is true for the adapter. However the TV DOES NOT have special dedicated commands for this purpose, it is always a multi-step proceedure so you cannot program your Harmony remote to make this switch with reliablity. The Harmony would have to send a series of commands with correct gaps between each command such as:
> MENU pause > LEFT pause > LEFT pause > LEFT pause > DOWN pause > DOWN > EXIT just to turn on 3D. The pauses are required because the TV needs to complete each command before receiving the next one. If the TV misses any of the commands the switch fails. Not a good method.
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post #30 of 34 Old 01-30-2012, 06:12 PM
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All good information BUT from what I understand the newer Mits DLPs (2010 and newer, not mine which is a 73736/2008), do NOT need the adapter. They are able to convert any of the 3D formats internally. I believe the early 2010s need a software update to do this if they didn't come from the factory with it already installed.

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