Originally Posted by ozorowsky
The 3d sources I plan to watch are from my ps3 and my cable 3d channels. Wil I also be able to play ps3 games in 3d?
I also have a harmony remote. Will I be able to set a scene to auto set my tv to 3d etc? That would be my one major deterrent to 3d if I have to change a bunch of stuff every time I want to watch 3d.
regarding dlp link I read the newer mits models dont need an adapter but older ones do. is that referring to ir only or dlp link as well? won't I need adapter even if I go dlp link route?
I'm very interested in your offer. Could you post pics of the glasses? I'm going to look them up.
A side question here. Dint projectors look grainy?i like the surreal clear glossy look of high def. Every time I hear projector I can't picture them looking super clear. Am I wrong?
Thank you again for all the advice
You have confused the purpose of the adapter. The adpater converts the 3D Signal Format to checkerboard 3D signal format. The 3DA-1 adapter is NOT about the glasses, it is about 3D signal format.
The DLP TV requires a checkerboard 3D signal format. However this is not "most common" format to send a 3D signal. The "most common" types of 3D signal formats are:
1. Frame Packing - a single frame which is a super sized frame that has two full resolution images in the same frame. All 3D Blu-ray are able to send this type of 3D signal. This is what your PS3 sends.
2. Side-by-side - a single frame which is a normal sized frame that has two half resolution images in the same frame. Most cable boxes send this type of signal for movies.
3. Top-bottom (aka over/under) - a single frame which is a normal sized frame that has two half resolution images in the same frame. Many cable boxes send this type for ESPN 3D.
Checkerboard 3D Signal Format is not a "most common". A few Panasonic and OPPO 3D Blu-ray players can send checkerboard 3D but the majority of other brands cannot. I have never heard of any cable box or satellite receiver that can send checkerboard 3D. For devices that cannot send checkerboard 3D signal format, you need the 3DA-1 adapter.
All 3D TVs will convert the signals that they can accept into a display system that matches the TV type (the way the TV displays the 3D). The "most common" standard display systems are:
1. Frame Sequential - first shows a full frame for the left eye and then shows a full frame for the right eye. Normally the frames are changed 120 times a second, for 60 frames a second for each eye. This system requires active shutter glasses that will "actively" block one eye at a time to match the frame on screen. The right eye is blocked while the screen shows the left eye view and then the left eye is blocked while the screen show the right eye view. This is how 3D plasmas work and LED LCDs that use Active Shutter Glasses
2. Line Interleave - this is when one frame is shown that has the information for both eye views. The odd numbers horizontal lines of the picture are the left eye view while the even number horizontal lines of the picture are the right eye view. Then the screen has a special polarizing flim that gives two different light polarizations to the lines, one for all the left lines and the other for all the right lines. These are then matched with passive
glasses that have polarized lenses, different polarization for each eye. So the left eye only sees the even numbered lines while watching 3D and never the odd lines. The right eye sees only the odd lines and not the even lines (each eye sees half of the lines, never all of the lines). In 2D, you do not use the glasses so both eyes see all of the lines.
3. Checkerboard - this is where the full frame for the left eye is divided into half of the pixels arrayed like the red squares of a checkerboard and the right eye is half of the pixels arrayed like the black squares, however the TV displays only one eye view at a time alternating between each eye view 120 times a second (again each eye 60 times per second). This is the way all DLP Rear projection TVs (yours this) display 3D. Active Shutter Glasses
As said before, Active Shutter Glasses block one eye while allowing the other eye to see and then they reverse. This switching normally happens 120 times a second. However for 3D to look correct, the eye that can see needs to match which eye view is being shown on screen in other words the glasses need to synchronized to the display. There are three methods to do this, "DLP Link", "IR", and "RF". The TV has the "DLP Link" built in, it has a connector on the back to connect an "IR" emitter or "RF" transmitter (yes Monster make "RF" glasses and transmitter you can connect to the TV). The 3DA-1 adapter does not change anything in relation to the type of compatible glasses. The adapter has a pass-thru for the IR emitter or RF transmitter but this seems to be only so the adapter can remind you to turn turn on the 3D mode in the TV when the adapter is sending a 3D signal to the TV. People are suggesting "DLP Link" glasses because you do not need to add an emitter or transmitter.
For your Harmony remote to auto switch your TV into and out of the 3D mode, your TV needs to have dedicated special remote control commands that say "3D ON" and "3D OFF". The same is true for the adapter. However the TV DOES NOT have special dedicated commands for this purpose, it is always a multi-step proceedure so you cannot program your Harmony remote to make this switch with reliablity. The Harmony would have to send a series of commands with correct gaps between each command such as:
> MENU pause > LEFT pause > LEFT pause > LEFT pause > DOWN pause > DOWN > EXIT just to turn on 3D. The pauses are required because the TV needs to complete each command before receiving the next one. If the TV misses any of the commands the switch fails. Not a good method.