Originally Posted by 3DBob
Tom, do you own the 3D1?
Yes, I still have it and I've been using it more recently. Also have the W3. I think for stills these are still the best two cameras out there for 3D stills in all in one package without going to two cameras. I made the change the other day to using 4:3 for stills instead of 16x9 that way if I ever want to print them out they'll be in higher resolution for that. And in post they can always be cropped to 16:9 which would have been cropped anyway during the shot if selected to 16:9, but the extra information is there in 4:3.
So the 3D1 is 8mp for 3D in 4:3 and 6mp in 16x9. The Fuji is 10mp in 3D and 7.1 in 16x9 both are slightly less than 4K resolution so my AX1003D rig is still higher than both of these for 3D and that one's shooting video not stills. I think it takes 20mp stills, I haven't tried it. Of course, non genlocked.
I turned on the trumotion on the LG 4K and it does make a difference. I viewed my 4K3D parade video in top/bottom which was 30p footage and it gets rid of judder and smooths it out some. It doesn't look nearly as smooth as what true 60p footage would bring but it's a nice compromise.
I think the point Mark was trying to make was that the camera was superior to the 3D1, which it is of course. It's newer, aps-c, bigger and better glass. But for 3D there's so much more that goes into a camera system that its specs.
I love my AX1003D rig. It's so far above what my Z10k or even the big 3DA1 camera can produce. The glass is larger the sensor's are 4x's larger, the bit rate is higher the resolution is 4K, on and on. But just one little
problem. It's not true genlocked so I've come to the conclusion that I'll have to make a decision on what projects I want to use it with.
Last year I shot Steampunk Day with it for the first time which I've used the big AG-3DA1 camera with Zunow kit and filters because it's my best 3D video camera, producing much higher quality with uncompressed left/right streams. But last year I used the 4K3D rig, and there were a few places where the miss sync in the frames is noticeable which runs the 3D effect. So I'll be going back to the 3DA1 for that project, no big deal.
Given the LCD shutters on this 3D lens is like that, I don't think I would bother with it. It also lowers the light and it has that really narrow I.A. which means your 3D range is shorter. Outside I like to use the Fuji W3 and shooting stuff further away. The 3D1 works great up close. I think the W3 is a little better with flash as the bulb is further away from the lenses. That causes those dust particles reflecting back. The 3D1 is pretty bad with flash indoors. Must check each shot first to see if it picked them up.
The point is that you can have a really great camera that has full frame 50 mega pixel imaging, fastest glass and all that, but it still may not be a good 3D camera if it's not designed for 3D. The 3D1 and W3 are just better "3D" cameras. They may not have the quality of newer cameras because of the age of when they were built but they are what you need for good 3D.
The only replacement for these two for stills would be moving to a two camera system but that will never fit in your pocket like both the W3 and 3D1.