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post #31 of 306 Old 03-10-2016, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by tomtastic View Post
Yeah, Canon and Nikon are getting left in the dust for 4k. They're nice for stills but if you want 4k, Sony is the only real choice.
Really? Concerning video resolution, picture quality (moirre and some other "effects") and overheating, in my humble opinion, Panasonic is the real choice. My experience with a couple of GH4s is very positive (I am using native m43 lenses!). First class. Some cheaper Panasonic 4K cameras might be even more tempting. It's important to find the cameras which offer dummy batteries for external power supply and dedicated power-on switch for synched power-on (important for synched videos) and external wired trigger.

Damir
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post #32 of 306 Old 03-10-2016, 06:44 AM
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1. Don, how's the new projector? I recall you were supposed to get it last weekend.
Arrived last Thursday. Installed on Friday. The picture is amazing and I have full black levels now with full room lighting. Picture looks like OLED quality absent that awful mirror room reflection in the blacks you get with OLED.

Note that this is still in upconvert mode as I do not have any way to project 4K yet.

I have the only true 4K Blu Ray player on order but I am having trouble with Samsung. They are ignoring my messages now for a week. Says we'll get back to you in 24 hours and I never get a response. They are the worst company for customer service I have seen. Sony is so much better. But they have the only 4K BluRay player out so far. All I want is for them to give me an ETA. They charged my CC immediately. So that is frustrating.

I have the dual 18Gbs HDMI cables run now to the new projector. Seems there are serious compatibility problems with finding a cable that can handle true 4K. It should work with 10 Gbs cables but many do not work. While we had a standard for 2K as standard and High Speed, there doesn't seem to be a reliable standard now for 4K cables. So I based my purchase on what other forum members have confirmed works for true 4K and this player and projector. Of course, the fake 4K stuff out there works fine as the bit rate is very low.

The other issue I am discovering is not all 4K is really 4K when it comes to film releases on 4K Blu Ray. Many are 2K intermediates upconverted to 4K BluRay disks.

Regardless of the issues with true vs fake 4K and the cable compatibility issue, the 2K to 4K upconvert using 8 bit color is jaw dropping amazing. I'm seeing shades of blacks that were all just flat black on the old projector. I just finished watching Netflix House of Cards in 2K and the picture looked like I was watching a blu ray disk playing. Netflix produced and mastered season 4 in true 4K so even the 2K stream is better. I can't wait to see it in true 4K when the Samsung player gets here.

This has been taking all my time lately so I have put my 3D editing on hold.

My 3D videos and more
Don Landis HT System: Projector Sony VPL VW665ES Players: Samsung UBD K8500 OPPO BD93 Sony BDP S6200 All Regions Player Denon AVR 4311ci, 7.1 JBL Professional series and Klipsch PS3, XBOX360, Dish VIP722K; 3D Edit Suite: Edius7.53, Vegas Pro v13, Power Director15, i7-950, LG 3D TV DM2752
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post #33 of 306 Old 03-10-2016, 06:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crunchy3d View Post
Really? Concerning video resolution, picture quality (moirre and some other "effects") and overheating, in my humble opinion, Panasonic is the real choice. My experience with a couple of GH4s is very positive (I am using native m43 lenses!). First class. Some cheaper Panasonic 4K cameras might be even more tempting. It's important to find the cameras which offer dummy batteries for external power supply and dedicated power-on switch for synched power-on (important for synched videos) and external wired trigger.

Damir
I was referring to Canon and Nikon which haven't supported 4k very long, besides the 1D which isn't prosumer.

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post #34 of 306 Old 03-10-2016, 07:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Barry C View Post
Everyone's gone silent. So, I'm curious:

2. Tom, how's the new 4K twin cam rig? Are you getting it dialed in and working out the bugs?


I guess my big news is 4th time was the charm. I finally got a good 28mm lens after sending the first 3 back. Also, ordered a programmable slider today from Dynamic Perceptions. Now, I have their whole 3 axis system. Much to learn and experiment with before the next Yosemite trip, weather permitting, in a couple of weeks when my son Ryan's on spring break. It will open up a whole new dimension for shooting 3D with very low angle motion shots as well as for 4K timelapse and video.
Didn't get around to it over weekend. I redid some speaker setups in my HT, adding height speakers and replacing the subs in the my main left/right boxes with full reference series subs. After all that I was really exhausted, so much I think I came down with a touch of the flu so I was ill all weekend. I did get my computer upgraded to a 12 Core now, it is unreal, not a bad upgrade for 600.00. I'm still shuffling data around so I can switch to the SSD's for boot and main rendering location. Hopefully get that done this weekend and maybe some more work on the rig.

Good news on that lens, there was a good one in there somewhere!

After looking around in settings on these cameras, I don't see a time-lapse setting. No interval mode in photos or video. So it would have to be done with video, since there is no time limit, it could be left running, I could record for 5hr 38m max with my cards. I need a dedicated camera for time-lapse.

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post #35 of 306 Old 03-10-2016, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomtastic View Post

After looking around in settings on these cameras, I don't see a time-lapse setting. No interval mode in photos or video. So it would have to be done with video, since there is no time limit, it could be left running, I could record for 5hr 38m max with my cards. I need a dedicated camera for time-lapse.
The Sony cameras, mine included, don't have a built in intervalometer. They want you to pay $10. for a timelapse app at the Sony Play Memories online store. The app is quite good. Also, you can buy decent intervalometers for $20. from Amazon. The motion systems I've purchased also have their own intervalometers built into their controller apps. Perhaps, the camcorders would accept the app?
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post #36 of 306 Old 03-10-2016, 09:49 AM - Thread Starter
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I read about Play Memories, which would use wifi and smartphone. Haven't looked into it more than that since it would likely only work for 2D.

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post #37 of 306 Old 03-11-2016, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by tomtastic View Post
I was referring to Canon and Nikon which haven't supported 4k very long, besides the 1D which isn't prosumer.
OK. I understand now. I should read your post more carefully.

Anyhow, I'm very interested in video synch results after the cameras (camcorders) are switched on at the same instant. The missynch between a pair of HG4s after synchronous power-on is close to 0ms (90% of time) or about 3ms (10% of time). The missynch remains the same after starting shooting. Since I am measuring the missynch on-line, it is not a problem for me to restart the cameras if there is 3ms missynch.
On contrary, I tested Canons 550D and they were not in synch at all after simultaneous power-on (via external power supply).

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post #38 of 306 Old 03-11-2016, 09:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm not performing power on at the same time, which I understand you can use a single power source to achieve this. This will just be start/stop sync with an external controller. With Canon or Nikon, you can use a dual shutter release to fire a photo at the same time which will drop the mirror, this will cause the cameras to shoot in sync at that point, of course that will only work on mirror bodies.

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post #39 of 306 Old 03-12-2016, 03:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomtastic View Post
I'm not performing power on at the same time, which I understand you can use a single power source to achieve this. This will just be start/stop sync with an external controller. With Canon or Nikon, you can use a dual shutter release to fire a photo at the same time which will drop the mirror, this will cause the cameras to shoot in sync at that point, of course that will only work on mirror bodies.
<br />
<br />
Concerning photos, Canons (550) were very good, while Fujis were relatively bad. The cameras were not power-on synched.<br />
Synched power-on is mostly required for synched videos, although it might help for synched photos as well.
By the way, the canons can be directly connected via 3-pole 2.5mm trigger. Focusing/triggering with one camera will focus/trigger another one simultaneously (talking about photos, of course). Similar system with one cable between the cameras can be used on some Sonys (the synch results were quite encouraging).

Last edited by crunchy3d; 03-12-2016 at 03:12 AM.
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post #40 of 306 Old 03-12-2016, 06:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Will be shooting with the AX1003D rig today. Just using the IR remote. I ran some more tests, I'm getting perfect sync on start/stop down to the 1/100th of a second. IR remote will be fine for close I.A. distance, sync cable will be required for wider rail setup.

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post #41 of 306 Old 03-23-2016, 09:58 AM
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Here's a new Sony 4k camera that will sync up to 5 others. This would have to produce gorgeous stabilized 4K video I would think, and the price really isn't out of line. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._ultra_hd.html

Specs say:

Multi-Camera Control

Add a different point of view by including other camera angles to your movies. Connect to up to five compatible Sony cameras via Wi-Fi and use the camcorder's LCD to preview what the other cameras are seeing and simultaneously start recording on all synced cameras.

Time Code / User Bit

Time Code and User Bit can be added to movies as data elements. The Time Code function records hours/minutes/seconds/frames on image data for precise advanced video editing. User Bit function records information such as date, time, and scene number in eight-digit arbitrary numbers, and is useful for editing movies using two or more cameras.

Tom, Barry, Don, Joe, Crunchy...who is first in line..?
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post #42 of 306 Old 03-23-2016, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 3DBob View Post
Here's a new Sony 4k camera that will sync up to 5 others. This would have to produce gorgeous stabilized 4K video I would think, and the price really isn't out of line. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._ultra_hd.html

Specs say:

Multi-Camera Control

Add a different point of view by including other camera angles to your movies. Connect to up to five compatible Sony cameras via Wi-Fi and use the camcorder's LCD to preview what the other cameras are seeing and simultaneously start recording on all synced cameras.

Time Code / User Bit

Time Code and User Bit can be added to movies as data elements. The Time Code function records hours/minutes/seconds/frames on image data for precise advanced video editing. User Bit function records information such as date, time, and scene number in eight-digit arbitrary numbers, and is useful for editing movies using two or more cameras.

Tom, Barry, Don, Joe, Crunchy...who is first in line..?
Damn, that is interesting! However, my new Camera, lenses, & 3 axis motion control system has almost put me in the poor house for the year- and then some. Bob, you're the one with the understanding wife, who's always encouraging you to buy new toys like this. So, I think you should go first. I think Tom has already committed himself for the year with his new system and Don has just bought that beautiful new projector. However, the stock market has been up recently, so maybe Don's feeling flush
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post #43 of 306 Old 03-23-2016, 04:52 PM
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I got my g#$#@$n bathroom to finish before my Africa trip...Don...help us out here...
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post #44 of 306 Old 03-23-2016, 05:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DBob View Post
Here's a new Sony 4k camera that will sync up to 5 others. This would have to produce gorgeous stabilized 4K video I would think, and the price really isn't out of line. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._ultra_hd.html

Specs say:

Multi-Camera Control

Add a different point of view by including other camera angles to your movies. Connect to up to five compatible Sony cameras via Wi-Fi and use the camcorder's LCD to preview what the other cameras are seeing and simultaneously start recording on all synced cameras.

Time Code / User Bit

Time Code and User Bit can be added to movies as data elements. The Time Code function records hours/minutes/seconds/frames on image data for precise advanced video editing. User Bit function records information such as date, time, and scene number in eight-digit arbitrary numbers, and is useful for editing movies using two or more cameras.

Tom, Barry, Don, Joe, Crunchy...who is first in line..?
The ax53 is replacing the ax33 which had the BOSS I.S., which I didn't think would work for 3D because the lens actually floats around inside, but the 53 doesn't appear to have that feature. It's only 1/2" sensor which is pretty cramped for 4k.

The problem with syncing with a smart phone is it's just not as on the fly as the IR remote or a remote trigger. It will work, but I'd rather have hands on control with a simple button for start/stop and zoom.

I received in some UV filters for the wide angle lenses so those are protected now. LOL even though the lenses are only cheapie 40.00 each.

Got some more work done on rig. I received in some new rails which are basically the same but the mounting plates are tighter and less wiggle. Applied cork material on 4 of base plates so I have two sets, a set for 6" rail and a set for the 12" rail.

My brother in law made a sync cable but the splitter part would only work intermittently so it didn't get soldered right. I gave it back and he's going to build another one. Main problem is it requires 2.5mm stereo plug which there aren't any adapters out there for what I need so it has to be custom made 2.5mm male to dual 2.5mm male.

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post #45 of 306 Old 03-23-2016, 05:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Forgot to mention my outing with the AX1003D rig which I filmed the yearly St. Patrick's Day Parade in 4k3D a couple weekends ago. I had camera on tripod entire time for stability. I viewed just in 4k2D direct from one camera and the image quality is just stunning. My problem now is I don't want to shoot in HD anymore but at the same time I don't want to get rid of my 3D cameras. The sync cable wasn't ready so I just used the IR remote. I did a quick start/stop to get cameras in sync then started them again for the actual recording. They ran for about 1h 15m total.

The lenses are actually pretty wide without using the wide angle kit. The colors are really vibrant although there wasn't a lot of green yet, still a little early in the year. The camera called for ND1 setting so I set both to manual ND1 and it adjusted the F stop and DB to open up the iris. But I'm really impressed with image quality. The 24p 30p judder is more noticeable with 4k so you really have to avoid quick pans with these cameras.

I need to reinstall 8.1 and programs since the Windows clone didn't work. Moving to a smaller drive appears problematic so I'll have to start over with a fresh install onto the 960gb SSD. The clone for OS X worked fine. Drive speed increased from 40mb/s to 250-300 write speed and 400mb/s read speed. Plays the 100mbps files flawlessly now.

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post #46 of 306 Old 03-27-2016, 09:09 AM - Thread Starter
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So the sync cable isn't going to work. Something in the cameras prevents it from working. One camera will see the signal, could be signal degradation between the two. The cable is good, I tried it both ways it will work but only one camera.

Before this, I tried out the controller I got for the Panasonic cameras and those are 3.5mm output to 3.5mm input for the rec/zoom. Surprisingly those worked in tandem with that controller and the two Panasonic cameras (although the zoom range was different between the models) which got me thinking it would work with the Sony's. So something with the Sony's multi port or processing, it won't, basically cancels out one camera. It could just be the multi port since it's not a direct 2.5mm stereo plug, it cancels it out.

So have to look at others options besides pointing the IR remote in front, which really isn't that limiting. It works, it won't always be as convienent as pressing a button nearer the camera. Might be possible to make an IR trigger that would flash each receiver in front while the remote was mounted to the side which would eliminate having to point remote in front each time. One problem with the IR remote is that when you get the cameras further away it will be harder to hit them both at the same time. However, with wide I.A. they would have to be mounted on tripod so you could stand in front of them and do it.

The IR receiver's actually see it fine just holding the remote over the top of the cameras vs. directly in front, I just worry that at times one camera won't see it and then loose one view recording.

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post #47 of 306 Old 03-29-2016, 10:59 AM
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This isn't 3D but is from my first real Yosemite field test of the new 4K motion controlled video and timelapse system. I spent a few days there last week putting it through its paces. Here's about 15 seconds of video showing its capabilities.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj-n...ature=youtu.be

Last edited by Barry C; 03-29-2016 at 05:50 PM.
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post #48 of 306 Old 03-29-2016, 02:12 PM
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Wow, Barry. You're looking like a pro, now.
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post #49 of 306 Old 04-29-2016, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomtastic View Post
Edit: I checked the second test clips I did with the IR remote (4 clips total). This time, the first pair, again the start sync was off 6/100th's of a second. After that the next 3 clips were perfectly in sync matching up on the exact 100th's place on my phone, not every other clip like before. I'm not going to spend any more time worrying about it right now, it's good to know it's that precise with the remote, but I really want the sync cable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomtastic in how to sync thread View Post
The reason I went with this particular model was they included an IR remote which I thought would get perfect sync, but the design specs vary so much on action cams, especially when they're cheap knockoffs. Fortunately my 4k camcorders line up in sync perfectly with the included remote. I attempted a sync cable but it didn't work because they use a proprietary micro USB port instead of a 2.5 or 3.5mm port. But the remote works for start/stop and zoom sync.
Am very impressed with the Sony AX100s you're using, but confused about the sync accuracy you report when using a remote control.

At 30fps, there would be a new frame every 3.33 hundredths of a second, or 33.3mS. A discrepancy of 6/100th sec would be 60mS and around two frames out. Of course you'd simply move one of the clips on the editing timeline by 2 frames and you'd be left with a relatively small residual discrepancy.


In the other scenario you report, a match to the nearest 1/100th sec, that would indicate a timing mismatch no worse than 10mS. There'd be no need to movie the left or right clip by even one frame in the editor. However I have to ask what actual residual discrepancy is there? Have you been able to take some 3D shots of a demanding scene like a water fountain and obtain good results? If the remote really can reliably give you a very low residual discrepancy, say 3mS or better, I'd be very interested. I think it would set a precedent. I don't think anyone else has obtained perfect or near perfect synch using an untethered remote control.

I'm not sure I'd be prepared to outlay what it would currently cost to acquire two AX100s but I'd be prepared to purchase two cheaper cameras if tests indicated they could be started up to within 3mS using a single remote control. If two AX100s can synch to within 3mS of each other with a single untethered remote, perhaps some other models can too!

* * *

I often think about how useful a 3D rig could be to send a side by side or top and bottom stereo image to a single 4K 2D camera, but I'm not prepared to try to build one, and off the shelf 3D rigs I've seen advertised are quite expensive.

The KÚLA (Bebe and Deeper) conversion lenses which could be interesting to experiment with have been advertised as being available on pre-order for a very long time. The Loreo 3D lens in a cap appears to be a mature product. However I'd be more inclined to order a Kula or Loreo 3D lens if there were positive reports from users.
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post #50 of 306 Old 04-29-2016, 08:31 AM - Thread Starter
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6/100th off-not using this footage. I just do a quick start/stop first after power up. This appears to lock the cameras in sync. Don't ask me why or how. All I know is what happens when I test it with my stop watch. I have both cameras pointed at my phone. I start the timer and they both have the same exact time at the start of the clip. That's 0.00 places. I had to search for an app that had a hundreth's place timer, the included one only went to 0.0 tenths place. Worst case scenerio they are off 6/100ths like I said on the first clip. So if the left camera is say 4.56 the right camera will read 4.62. And that is the max it is off and it's always off that same amount with the remote on the first clip. I need to do some more tests but it appears to do that only on first start/stop. After that, same exact time on each camera.

I haven't done any editing yet and pairing up or viewing of any footage yet. Been too busy with other things. Finally got my computer back up after upgrading and have Windows 8.1 installed on SSD so I'm ready to go. I'll see if I can do a water fountain test this weekend and get it in Vegas Pro.

I'll see if I can get a video SbS of my stopwatch test too. From powerup with first "sync" clip thru consecutive start/stop attempts.

Back when I tried this on my NoPro cameras they were off a half frame. I'm going to try my stopwatch test on those cameras and see what they show first. I have a feeling they're off more than 6/100th's, and off every time. But they're cheap too.

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post #51 of 306 Old 04-29-2016, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Ran a new series of tests with the AX1003D rig. Tried 30p and then 24p. I would power the units on, start the timer and then fire 10 shots with the remote.

With 30p it consistantly was off the first shot after first power up 6/100ths. It would be exact 100th every 4 clips after. The 5th clip was off 6/100ths and then back in sync. Occasionally it was off a an amount other than 6/100th's, might be I didn't aim remote perfectly but not every group test. Generally, I could get 4 shots after the first in 100th time sync.

With 24p it was all over the place. At times it would be in sync at 100th of a second and other times it was off 6/100ths and other times a different amount as much as 4/10ths of a second. I'm going to do some more tests but 24p is much less consistant. Might have to shoot 30p then convert to 24 if needed. Out of 10 shots I maybe had 3 or 4 that were perfect to 100th.

The faster the framerate the less the frames will be out of sync. I want to try 1080p60 and see how that performs.
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post #52 of 306 Old 04-29-2016, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Ran some more tests. Tried all three frame rates. 24p and 30p in 4k and 60p in 1080. 24p behaved like it did before. The start varies not consistant and off as much as 5/10ths of a second. 60p surprisingly wasn't much better. I did get same times a few times but didn't see much consistancy. 30p, again same results and is the most consistant.

However, I went and tested the Nopros which are 1080p30 only and they performed the same as the AX100's in 30p although I think they were the same on the first shot and the first 5. The 6th was off and then same again. So now I'm confused. I thought that if they were synced to 1/100th of a second they would be lined up perfect frame starts, but I know that wasn't the case before on the NoPros. Other than opening the cameras up and hard wiring the record buttons together I don't know how else to do it. The remote trigger won't work on these because of the multi port.

Still going to try a water fountain test and see what happens.

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post #53 of 306 Old 04-30-2016, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by crunchy3d View Post
Anyhow, I'm very interested in video synch results after the cameras (camcorders) are switched on at the same instant. The missynch between a pair of HG4s after synchronous power-on is close to 0ms (90% of time) or about 3ms (10% of time). The missynch remains the same after starting shooting. Since I am measuring the missynch on-line, it is not a problem for me to restart the cameras if there is 3ms missynch.
Hey Damir,
I've only just now noticed the above comments from you about a pair of I think Lumix DMC-GH4s. Could you provide more detail about how you were controlling the cameras, i.e. how were you getting them to power on together, and start recording together? And was this at a frame rate of 30fps?

I think that with a lot of scenes a 3mS missynch would go unnoticed.

I'm assuming that for video the two cameras would perform auto-focus and auto-exposure independently of each other.

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The problem with syncing with a smart phone is it's just not as on the fly as the IR remote or a remote trigger. It will work, but I'd rather have hands on control with a simple button for start/stop and zoom.
Yes. Also I would suspect a little bit of discrepancy could arise in the synch, perhaps only minor, but it would be nice to know in practice just how tight the syncing is with the Sony FDR-AX53 4K Ultra HD Handycam synced with a compatible camera via wi-fi.

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Other than opening the cameras up and hard wiring the record buttons together I don't know how else to do it.
Even that direct method might not work (assuming it didn't damage either camera!). It could be that pushing the record button sends an interrupt request to the processor and causes it to execute a "start record" at the next available frame time. Unless the camera clocks had started at the same instant following an earlier "power on" command, the next available frame time might not be the same. I'm just guessing here!

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Still going to try a water fountain test and see what happens.
It will be interesting to see what small residual sync mismatch is revealed. It might be small enough that even people very sensitive to stereoscopic sync mismatch might not notice it.
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Going to give the sync cable another look. Had a talk with my B-I-L, he thinks it may be a power issue degradation that's causing only one camera to work. Will have to test and then possibly build an amplifier to get it to signal both cameras.

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post #55 of 306 Old 05-01-2016, 04:31 AM
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Here's a new Sony 4k camera that will sync up to 5 others. This would have to produce gorgeous stabilized 4K video I would think, and the price really isn't out of line. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._ultra_hd.html

Specs say:

Multi-Camera Control

...

Time Code / User Bit

...

Tom, Barry, Don, Joe, Crunchy...who is first in line..?
I am not quite sure that those cameras can achieve inter-frame synch. Since Wi-fi is used for "synch" I suppose that even larger missynch than 1 frame might be obtained. Of course, I sincerely hope that I am wrong.

Damir
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Hey Damir,
I've only just now noticed the above comments from you about a pair of I think Lumix DMC-GH4s. Could you provide more detail about how you were controlling the cameras, i.e. how were you getting them to power on together, and start recording together? And was this at a frame rate of 30fps?

I think that with a lot of scenes a 3mS missynch would go unnoticed.

I'm assuming that for video the two cameras would perform auto-focus and auto-exposure independently of each other. ...
I am controlling the cameras with some additional electronics which powers-up the cameras simultaneously (via external power adapter) or with some chosen time-delay and sending the commands (focus, trigger) via external remote port.

The scheme is shown here (don't forget to scroll down to the last post on the page to see corrected circuit for triggering):

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/threa...-post-53359761

By the way, currently I am not using video out signal for observing missynch, but am obtaining missynch signal via available signals (in order to get rid of the third cable to each camera). I will soon update the scheme when I check the new PCBs (probably within few months).

I am using 25p frame rate. Test in 4K was uploaded here:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCL9...sort=dd&view=0

See "Testing 3D with a pair of GH4 in 4K mode".
The original files an be downloaded here:
http://dsc.ijs.si/damir.vrancic/down_3d/movies/

3ms can be unnoticed on most of the clips. However, if there is a fast motion on the scene, I can sense some irregularities.

Yes, both cameras are independent considering the focus. However, I always lock AE and AF before triggering the cameras, so the brightness and focus remain the same in one take.

Damir
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post #57 of 306 Old 05-01-2016, 05:09 AM
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My brother in law made a sync cable but the splitter part would only work intermittently so it didn't get soldered right. I gave it back and he's going to build another one. Main problem is it requires 2.5mm stereo plug which there aren't any adapters out there for what I need so it has to be custom made 2.5mm male to dual 2.5mm male.
What kind of synch cable are you referring to? Does it use 2.5mm stereo cable and LANC protocol by Sony? In this case you cannot just connect them together (hard-wired). You should use something similar as I have built 10 years ago:

http://www-e2.ijs.si/3dlancmaster/

or better buy some stereo LANC controllers. However, I suppose that I mixed something - I did not get quite well which cameras are you referring to.

Damir
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post #58 of 306 Old 05-01-2016, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by crunchy3d View Post
I am controlling the cameras with some additional electronics which powers-up the cameras simultaneously (via external power adapter) or with some chosen time-delay and sending the commands (focus, trigger) via external remote port.

The scheme is shown here (don't forget to scroll down to the last post on the page to see corrected circuit for triggering):

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/threa...-post-53359761
Thank you.

Quote:
I am using 25p frame rate. Test in 4K was uploaded here:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCL9...sort=dd&view=0

See "Testing 3D with a pair of GH4 in 4K mode".
I remember seeing that video before. Excellent sync between left and right.

Quote:
Yes, both cameras are independent considering the focus. However, I always lock AE and AF before triggering the cameras, so the brightness and focus remain the same in one take.
Have you had any interest in trying out the Loreo 3D lens in a cap approach with a single camera? Of course the effective interaxial distance might be less than what you might be looking for.

Another option would be a variable beam splitter rig designed to provide a stereo image for a single camera.

I can't help thinking there might be some nice 3D results possible from using a single 4K camera; an advantage being the freedom to use the AE and AF and zoom* of that single camera without risking any noticeable exposure or focus disparities between the stereoscopic views coming from the conversion lens.

* I'm not sure to what extent it would be feasible to use zoom in conjunction with conversion lenses.

Last edited by MLXXX; 05-01-2016 at 08:41 AM.
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post #59 of 306 Old 05-01-2016, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by crunchy3d View Post
What kind of synch cable are you referring to? Does it use 2.5mm stereo cable and LANC protocol by Sony? In this case you cannot just connect them together (hard-wired). You should use something similar as I have built 10 years ago:

http://www-e2.ijs.si/3dlancmaster/

or better buy some stereo LANC controllers. However, I suppose that I mixed something - I did not get quite well which cameras are you referring to.

Damir
It's a zoom/rec controller 2.5mm split to dual 2.5mm ends then converted to Sony's Multi port cable. It will work thru one cable at a time but not both at the same time. It appears to be loosing signal (low voltage) for the second camera at least that was our theory. The controller must draw power from the camera and then it's backfed, but when it's split it's not enough to power two. This proceedure worked fine on my Panasonic cameras but they have 3.5 and 2.5mm direct ports and they must have better internal circuitry than the Sony's.

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post #60 of 306 Old 05-02-2016, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Didn't get waterfountain test done, however I did pull in some footage already had. I had some footage of snow falling which I think is just as good. Indeed, it is off a bit same as my NoPro tests. So far, one clip was off exactly one frame so that was an easy fix another was two frames off, I slide them over to match and deleted the unused frames.

Bottom line, even though it is acurate to 1/100th of a second that is not enough for exact frame match so my math was wrong here though I'm not sure how it could be. For 30 frames per second that would be a frame every 3/10ths of a second, so as long as it was a least 3/10ths in time it should be right on sync. The only thing I can think of is the display on my phone that shows the hundreths time is not that acurate, which come to think of it, it may only be 30 frames per second display rate which wouldn't be fast enough to show true hundreths timing, I would need a dedicated hundreths timer. Could be this is not the best method to check. Going forward I am going to use test footage and examine that firsthand.

edit: actually firgured that wrong it's 3 frames every 1/10th of a second so that would require 3.33 hundreths of a second accuracy. Still, if the phone is only 30 frames per second I don't see how the app could be acurate enough for hundreth's timing at least while displayed.

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Last edited by tomtastic; 05-02-2016 at 02:28 PM.
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