Originally Posted by EricUtah
I think it was mentioned by someone else around post #368
, but I also have an emitter + IOD glasses, and a Viewsonic (DLPlink) set that works fine together with my Sammy HL67A750. No color/tint issues with either one. The Viewsonic has somewhat better light/contrast pass-through. I've never had sync issues with the DLPLink; it seems those problems may be associated with earlier model DLPs.
Just adding to EricUtah's comment.
I also have a HL67A750. Here's a quick snapshot of it with 3D mode off. Please ignore the reflections - the background is as black as my TV gets when seen in person (also, you can see the 3DC-1000's emitter near the top):
That solid black becomes red when 3D mode is on as seen next:
It's the same with the actual content while it's playing. So, at least for some of us, that's what we have with our Samsung models.
As Eric said, when seen through my Viewsonics in sync, the red blacks become almost 100% black again (if you tilt your head, the blacks turn brownish). Using the Mitsubishi/Samsung IR-sync glasses, however, the blacks stay red-tinted but darker, and it really ruins the picture quality. I gave them to my sister who has a Samsung plasma.
I recently tried the "Samsung-compatible" I-O Display glasses. These are the newer parts that work with the built-in emitters of Samsung LCD and Plasma TVs, and they work with my emitter from the Mitsubishi kit. They're much, much dimmer than the Viewsonics and Samsung/Mitsubishi glasses, and the blacks stay red-tinted. One upside is that they're narrow enough in size to fit my 6-year old niece and nephew - and they don't seem to be too picky about picture quality, so I'm keeping them.
Of the 3 brands I tried, Viewsonics are clearly the best performers with my TV, so I'm keeping 6 pairs. I've never lost sync with any of the 3 brands while facing the screen. The entire right side of my viewing area is the kitchen flooded with 160W of fluorescent light, so I don't seem to have problems with that. I'm also gambling a bit that affordable 3-D 1080p DLP front projectors will become available, and DLP-Link will stay compatible with these glasses when that happens (fingers crossed.)
Also - I didn't see it documented anywhere - the Viewsonics power-off automatically about 3 minutes after losing 3D sync, just like the Samsung/Mitsubishi glasses. Found this out accidentally and confirmed it through a few trials.
My friends and family own Samsung 3D plasmas, so I'm looking for some IR glasses that can be shared AND offset the red blacks on my TV. I'm not counting on Samsung to issue a firmware update to turn off the red tint in 3D mode. So, if you're trying Samsung-compatible IR glasses (Ultraclears, etc.) with Samsung DLPs, and if your TV has the red-tinted blacks as mine, I'd love to know how they perform in terms of removing the red-tint from blacks.