3D Shutter DLP Glasses: REVIEWS? - Page 16 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #451 of 517 Old 12-10-2010, 01:08 PM
Senior Member
 
Justin-Dawson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 406
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milmanias View Post

On the Mits DLP's, when 3D mode is on the blacks look washed out and like a dark green/teal color instead of inky black. I believe on the Samsung tv's it's more of a red color instead of teal, from what I read.

My bad. I know what the issue is supposed to be - I should have said that I don't notice this issue whatsoever on my TV and therefore have no idea why everyone is complaining about it. I'm assuming it's obviously different with the Mits sets.
Justin-Dawson is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #452 of 517 Old 12-10-2010, 04:30 PM
Senior Member
 
Tyrod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sunny Florida
Posts: 496
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin-Dawson View Post

My bad. I know what the issue is supposed to be - I should have said that I don't notice this issue whatsoever on my TV and therefore have no idea why everyone is complaining about it. I'm assuming it's obviously different with the Mits sets.

Yeah, I don't have cancer either. I can't imagine what all those folks that do are complaining about.
Tyrod is offline  
post #453 of 517 Old 12-10-2010, 04:32 PM
Senior Member
 
perfectdark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 459
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrod View Post

Yeah, I don't have cancer either. I can't imagine what all those folks that do are complaining about.

I understand your point, but using "cancer" to make it..... when so many have died from it, including my personal family and friends is not cool
perfectdark is offline  
post #454 of 517 Old 12-13-2010, 05:20 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Augerhandle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,616
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjknatl View Post

Has anyone tried the glasses at the following link? Great price.

http://www.3dflightsim.com/product/product_07.htm ...[snip]


Those appear to be the same model being sold by 3D Heaven

http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/dlp3dwiglfis.html

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
 
Augerhandle is offline  
post #455 of 517 Old 12-14-2010, 02:00 AM
Senior Member
 
Tyrod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sunny Florida
Posts: 496
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by perfectdark View Post

I understand your point, but using "cancer" to make it..... when so many have died from it, including my personal family and friends is not cool

I was gonna add a snappy retort, but let's just let it die here.
Tyrod is offline  
post #456 of 517 Old 12-14-2010, 05:30 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Augerhandle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,616
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrod View Post

I was gonna add a snappy retort, but let's just let it die here.

Some people are more sensitive than others. It didn't bother me, but it is best to be polite.

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
 
Augerhandle is offline  
post #457 of 517 Old 12-15-2010, 12:05 PM
Newbie
 
SNOWMAN5373's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
What's the contrast ratio for the Xpands? I see the viewsonics are 1000 and the crystaleyes are 5000.
SNOWMAN5373 is offline  
post #458 of 517 Old 12-15-2010, 12:22 PM
Senior Member
 
Justin-Dawson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 406
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrod View Post
Yeah, I don't have cancer either. I can't imagine what all those folks that do are complaining about.
First off, this thread is not Mits or Samsung specific - I was trying to get my point across to Samsung owners that I wasn't seeing the teal issue on my Samsung with the IR glasses... hence the whole point of this thread.

Second off, I only had to add that second post to explain to Malanius (or whatever his name is) that I can in fact read and am obviously well aware of what the teal issue is supposed to be on the Mits sets.

Complain all you want about it, I was just trying to let people know that it's not an issue on the Samsungs.

I would like you to know however that your comment about cancer was completely uncalled for and I hope you go to h... just kidding. A lot of things in life suck - life goes on. I am guilty of immediately disliking people who add funny remarks to my posts though... aren't we all?
Justin-Dawson is offline  
post #459 of 517 Old 12-15-2010, 06:58 PM
Member
 
dougaldy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hey guys, I just happen to stumble on to this thread and found it very interesting as I am having the same issues. I have a Samsung HLT6187S and I went ahead and got the Crystaleyes 5 hoping they would sync up. Well after playing with them for quite a while, they kept losing sync so often that I couldnt even watch the movie. It happened during dark scenes, light scenes, it didnt matter. I called RealD and I am going to send them back and go with the Crystaleyes 4 and use an emitter. I also spoke to a tech and he said there have been a lot of people with these older DLP TV's who are having sync-ing issues. While some of the models work great, others dont. I am hopeful that the emitter will solve my problems. Once I get it, Ill update the thread.
dougaldy is offline  
post #460 of 517 Old 12-15-2010, 07:14 PM
Senior Member
 
jjknatl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 306
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougaldy View Post

Hey guys, I just happen to stumble on to this thread and found it very interesting as I am having the same issues. I have a Samsung HLT6187S ....

Do you see a teal or red haze on the screen, especially where it should be black, when viewed without wearing the glasses when you turn on 3D mode? As you may know, that is a result of the DLP Link flash. If you do see it and I would be surprised if you don't, you may have a problem with that haze when using emitter based glasses.

If you do see the haze without glasses, I'll be very interested to hear if the haze goes away when using the CE4s or if you still see it. The emitter glasses from Mits and Samsung do not block it and I suspect the CE4 will not block it either. If the CE4s do not block it, then I wonder if using the CE4 is any better than just using the Mits/Sammy glasses (which can be found much cheaper and are pretty lightweight)

I just bought the CE5s and they do a nice job of blocking the flash and restoring blacks as well as eliminating the rainbow but I haven't used them enough yet to determine if I have a sync issue.
jjknatl is offline  
post #461 of 517 Old 12-15-2010, 07:21 PM
Member
 
dougaldy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I will take a look tomorrow morning and see if I see that haze. I looked for rainbows and ghosting but not the haze.
dougaldy is offline  
post #462 of 517 Old 12-15-2010, 07:26 PM
Senior Member
 
hceuterpe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 491
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrod View Post

Yeah, I don't have cancer either. I can't imagine what all those folks that do are complaining about.

Hey guess what?? My mom had cancer less than 3 years ago and managed to survive. Your comment was total BS.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jjknatl View Post

Do you see a teal or red haze on the screen, especially where it should be black, when viewed without wearing the glasses when you turn on 3D mode? As you may know, that is a result of the DLP Link flash. If you do see it and I would be surprised if you don't, you may have a problem with that haze when using emitter based glasses.

If you do see the haze without glasses, I'll be very interested to hear if the haze goes away when using the CE4s or if you still see it. The emitter glasses from Mits and Samsung do not block it and I suspect the CE4 will not block it either. If the CE4s do not block it, then I wonder if using the CE4 is any better than just using the Mits/Sammy glasses (which can be found much cheaper and are pretty lightweight)

I just bought the CE5s and they do a nice job of blocking the flash and restoring blacks as well as eliminating the rainbow but I haven't used them enough yet to determine if I have a sync issue.

Why does everyone insist on saying Samsung and Mitsubishi TVs must function the same way? Even though they both have TI chips, that doesn't mean they are identical. If Justin-Dawson doesn't see the tint, then they doesn't see the tint. Why are you questioning what he see on his own TV? You're obviously not standing in front of his TV to rebut his statement. Are you implying he's color blind?
The same rationale like above made people believe a particular pair of working DLP Link glasses in a particular instance would mean they work perfectly fine regardless of the 3D capable DLP TV, which by now is obviously not true.

For those with Samsung DLP TVs, who also have IR glasses, and yet have DLP Link glasses laying around, possibly because they didn't work due to syncing issues: If you install your emitter for the IR glasses (perhaps regardless of TV mode even, both standard/inverse), do your DLP Link glasses even still work?
hceuterpe is offline  
post #463 of 517 Old 12-15-2010, 07:41 PM
Member
 
EricUtah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by hceuterpe View Post

For those with Samsung DLP TVs, who also have IR glasses, and yet have DLP Link glasses laying around, possibly because they didn't work due to syncing issues: If you install your emitter for the IR glasses (perhaps regardless of TV mode even, both standard/inverse), do your DLP Link glasses even still work?

I think it was mentioned by someone else around post #368, but I also have an emitter + IOD glasses, and a Viewsonic (DLPlink) set that works fine together with my Sammy HL67A750. No color/tint issues with either one. The Viewsonic has somewhat better light/contrast pass-through. I've never had sync issues with the DLPLink; it seems those problems may be associated with earlier model DLPs.
EricUtah is offline  
post #464 of 517 Old 12-15-2010, 09:35 PM
Member
 
jkim5453's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricUtah View Post

I think it was mentioned by someone else around post #368, but I also have an emitter + IOD glasses, and a Viewsonic (DLPlink) set that works fine together with my Sammy HL67A750. No color/tint issues with either one. The Viewsonic has somewhat better light/contrast pass-through. I've never had sync issues with the DLPLink; it seems those problems may be associated with earlier model DLPs.

Just adding to EricUtah's comment.

I also have a HL67A750. Here's a quick snapshot of it with 3D mode off. Please ignore the reflections - the background is as black as my TV gets when seen in person (also, you can see the 3DC-1000's emitter near the top):



That solid black becomes red when 3D mode is on as seen next:



It's the same with the actual content while it's playing. So, at least for some of us, that's what we have with our Samsung models.

As Eric said, when seen through my Viewsonics in sync, the red blacks become almost 100% black again (if you tilt your head, the blacks turn brownish). Using the Mitsubishi/Samsung IR-sync glasses, however, the blacks stay red-tinted but darker, and it really ruins the picture quality. I gave them to my sister who has a Samsung plasma.

I recently tried the "Samsung-compatible" I-O Display glasses. These are the newer parts that work with the built-in emitters of Samsung LCD and Plasma TVs, and they work with my emitter from the Mitsubishi kit. They're much, much dimmer than the Viewsonics and Samsung/Mitsubishi glasses, and the blacks stay red-tinted. One upside is that they're narrow enough in size to fit my 6-year old niece and nephew - and they don't seem to be too picky about picture quality, so I'm keeping them.

Of the 3 brands I tried, Viewsonics are clearly the best performers with my TV, so I'm keeping 6 pairs. I've never lost sync with any of the 3 brands while facing the screen. The entire right side of my viewing area is the kitchen flooded with 160W of fluorescent light, so I don't seem to have problems with that. I'm also gambling a bit that affordable 3-D 1080p DLP front projectors will become available, and DLP-Link will stay compatible with these glasses when that happens (fingers crossed.)

Also - I didn't see it documented anywhere - the Viewsonics power-off automatically about 3 minutes after losing 3D sync, just like the Samsung/Mitsubishi glasses. Found this out accidentally and confirmed it through a few trials.

My friends and family own Samsung 3D plasmas, so I'm looking for some IR glasses that can be shared AND offset the red blacks on my TV. I'm not counting on Samsung to issue a firmware update to turn off the red tint in 3D mode. So, if you're trying Samsung-compatible IR glasses (Ultraclears, etc.) with Samsung DLPs, and if your TV has the red-tinted blacks as mine, I'd love to know how they perform in terms of removing the red-tint from blacks.

joe
jkim5453 is offline  
post #465 of 517 Old 12-15-2010, 09:40 PM
Senior Member
 
jjknatl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 306
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by hceuterpe View Post

Why does everyone insist on saying Samsung and Mitsubishi TVs must function the same way?

Wow, I detect some angst. I wasn't responding to Justin but to dougaldy. Also, see the post above from jkim which shows the red haze on a Samsung. Please overlook my comments if you think they are insulting. Just trying to ask for useful information.
jjknatl is offline  
post #466 of 517 Old 12-15-2010, 10:12 PM
Member
 
EricUtah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkim5453 View Post

Just adding to EricUtah's comment.

I also have a HL67A750.
...
That solid black becomes red when 3D mode is on as seen next:


That's looks pretty red. It's hard to tell because it's a photo, but I'm not sure my display is putting out that much red in the 3D mode. I don't see it through the either of the glasses. Movie mode, 100 contrast, 45 bright.

Edit: I just threw on the IOD glasses to make sure - I see the red through them when they're not synced, but as soon as soon as they sync (maybe two seconds) it's gone. Not even the slightest hint. I'm curious where the difference is.... Also: I agree about the Viewsonics. More light passthru & a lot more comfy than IODs. They're great.
EricUtah is offline  
post #467 of 517 Old 12-15-2010, 11:41 PM
Senior Member
 
jjknatl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 306
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricUtah View Post

Edit: I just threw on the IOD glasses to make sure - I see the red through them when they're not synced, but as soon as soon as they sync (maybe two seconds) it's gone. Not even the slightest hint. I'm curious where the difference is.... Also: I agree about the Viewsonics. More light passthru & a lot more comfy than IODs. They're great.

Eric, as I recall you have the IOD glasses that use the IOD emitter (as opposed to the Samsung compatible model)? Have you tried the Mits emitter and Mits/Sammy glasses to determine if the red tint disappears when synced?

It may be that the IOD version you have briefly has both shutters closed when switching from right to left and back whereas the Samsung compatible IOD version may not shut both at the same time.
jjknatl is offline  
post #468 of 517 Old 12-16-2010, 09:24 AM
Senior Member
 
Justin-Dawson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 406
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
[quote=jkim5453;19656071]


That solid black becomes red when 3D mode is on as seen next:



It's the same with the actual content while it's playing. So, at least for some of us, that's what we have with our Samsung models.

QUOTE]

Just saw these pictures and I almost couldn't believe my eyes. I thought people complaining about the red/teal issues were probably overly concerning themselves with minute details of their PQ... i never thought it was anywhere near this bad. I can confirm that I do not see this issue at all - glasses on or off (not even the faintest red tint).

Here's the interesting part though, I couldn't get DLP Link glasses to stay sync'd for more than 30 seconds or so... maybe I just got lucky and have a TV with a very "poor" performing DLP Link flash...
Justin-Dawson is offline  
post #469 of 517 Old 12-16-2010, 10:03 AM
Member
 
jkim5453's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricUtah View Post

That's looks pretty red. It's hard to tell because it's a photo, but I'm not sure my display is putting out that much red in the 3D mode. I don't see it through the either of the glasses. Movie mode, 100 contrast, 45 bright.

Edit: I just threw on the IOD glasses to make sure - I see the red through them when they're not synced, but as soon as soon as they sync (maybe two seconds) it's gone. Not even the slightest hint. I'm curious where the difference is.... Also: I agree about the Viewsonics. More light passthru & a lot more comfy than IODs. They're great.

Brightness of the red is exaggerated in that quick photo I took. In reality, its a darker hue than what's shown in the picture. However, dark red or bright red, it's still a very definite red rather than black. My TV's also in Movie mode, contrast 100, brightness 44, input name "PC" (amazing how that gets rid of the red/blue ghosting), "Wide TV" picture size.

BTW: the TV's "HDMI black level" setting sticks from before you change the input name to "PC", which can really trip you if you're not aware of it. I have 3 sources that can play 3-D material connected to the HDMI3 input through a 3x1 switch: PS3, Boxee Box (mostly half SBS short clips I found here and there), and U-Verse STB (so far, only saw top-and-bottom format). PS3 and Boxee Box can adjust the black level output between PC RGB and video RGB, but the U-Verse STB can't. To accommodate the black level output of all 3, I set the TV's HDMI black level to "Low" before changing the input name to "PC", then set the PS3 and Boxee Box to output video RGB range (e.g "RGB limited" on PS3), and the same contrast/brightess values work well for all 3.

RE: IOD glasses. My guess is that the Samsung-compatible IOD glasses I tried may have different optical properties than the older parts with their own emitter, perhaps to better accommodate the newer Samsung plasma and LCD models.

joe
jkim5453 is offline  
post #470 of 517 Old 12-16-2010, 11:05 AM
Member
 
EricUtah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjknatl View Post

Eric, as I recall you have the IOD glasses that use the IOD emitter (as opposed to the Samsung compatible model)? Have you tried the Mits emitter and Mits/Sammy glasses to determine if the red tint disappears when synced?

It may be that the IOD version you have briefly has both shutters closed when switching from right to left and back whereas the Samsung compatible IOD version may not shut both at the same time.

That's got to be it. I haven't seen any Mits/Sammy glasses so can't speak as to how those would work. I'm pretty surprised that the "Samsung" labeled glasses at IOD are performing worse (at least with the red bleedthru) than the generic DLP+emitter based ones.
EricUtah is offline  
post #471 of 517 Old 12-16-2010, 11:08 AM
Member
 
EricUtah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkim5453 View Post

RE: IOD glasses. My guess is that the Samsung-compatible IOD glasses I tried may have different optical properties than the older parts with their own emitter, perhaps to better accommodate the newer Samsung plasma and LCD models.

I think you're right; I'm guessing it's probably something the timing/electronics or material itself.

Edit: I just checked the IOD website to take quick look at my pair vs the Samsung labeled one and remembered why I chose the generic DLP+emitter set: The "Samsung Compatible" description did not include DLP TVs. "These glasses work with all US Samsung 3D enabled LED, LCD, and plasma displays."

I guess as a warning to other folks it might be wise to avoid the "Samsung Compatible" pair with Sammy HL**A750 DLP sets. In any case, I'd recommend the Viewsonics anyway since they're close in price but better in most regards.
EricUtah is offline  
post #472 of 517 Old 12-16-2010, 11:38 AM
Senior Member
 
jjknatl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 306
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Eric, is your set using a bulb or LEDs? The advice of DLP Link glasses vs emitter glasses may depend on a bulb vs LED based DLP TV.

Certainly for pre-2010 Mits TVs which use a bulb, DLP Link seems to be the way to go (preferably a type that doesn't produce polarization rainbows), unless one prefers the IOD + generic emitter which is the first emitter based glasses I've heard about that block the flash. Hoping the CE4 blocks the flash as well as it might be the ideal choice for some.
jjknatl is offline  
post #473 of 517 Old 12-16-2010, 11:58 AM
Member
 
EricUtah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjknatl View Post

Eric, is your set using a bulb or LEDs? The advice of DLP Link glasses vs emitter glasses may depend on a bulb vs LED based DLP TV.

Certainly for pre-2010 Mits TVs which use a bulb, DLP Link seems to be the way to go (preferably a type that doesn't produce polarization rainbows), unless one prefers the IOD + generic emitter which is the first emitter based glasses I've heard about that block the flash. Hoping the CE4 blocks the flash as well as it might be the ideal choice for some.

The HL61A750 & 67A750 are LED backlit DLP, no bulb. Updated the post above to narrow the advice to the two similar backlit LED models.

Hopefully we can get some more reviews in this thread with enough data to create a sticky post with known good configurations.
EricUtah is offline  
post #474 of 517 Old 12-16-2010, 09:10 PM
Member
 
jkim5453's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricUtah View Post

The HL61A750 & 67A750 are LED backlit DLP, no bulb. Updated the post above to narrow the advice to the two similar backlit LED models.

Hopefully we can get some more reviews in this thread with enough data to create a sticky post with known good configurations.

I think A650 models (bulb) are also affected:

http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=89318

joe
jkim5453 is offline  
post #475 of 517 Old 12-16-2010, 09:41 PM
Senior Member
 
jjknatl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 306
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkim5453 View Post

I think A650 models (bulb) are also affected:

http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=89318

Very interesting. I noticed that an nVidia tech opened a new thread to solicit comments. In the new thread people say that nVidia made a change, apparently via a new driver v1.07 around April of 2009, and the red tint went away while wearing the synced nVidia glasses. My guess is that they altered the emitter signals in some way to shutter both lenses during the DLP Link flash.
jjknatl is offline  
post #476 of 517 Old 12-17-2010, 09:50 AM
Senior Member
 
jjknatl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 306
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjknatl View Post

I just bought the CE5s and they do a nice job of blocking the flash and restoring blacks as well as eliminating the rainbow but I haven't used them enough yet to determine if I have a sync issue.

As I mentioned in the CE5 thread, I have now spent more time using these and the sync with my 65C9 is flawless in both 3D mode and dual view mode and the DLP Link flash is also properly blocked in both of those modes. No rainbows either. Couldn't be happier with them at this time and will plan to buy more of them once I sell my Mits glasses. I'll probably hang onto the Mits emitter so my daughter can continue to use her Samsung kids glasses (would be nice if there was a kids version to the CE5 although the CE5 may already fit kids anyway, haven't tried it).
jjknatl is offline  
post #477 of 517 Old 12-17-2010, 12:22 PM
Member
 
dougaldy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Jkim,

Thats intersting that your changes to the picture settings stay when you swith it to PC. Mine stay but as soon as I put it in 3D mode it automatically changes to Dynamic and the only settings I can play with are the brightness and contrast.
dougaldy is offline  
post #478 of 517 Old 12-17-2010, 02:33 PM
Member
 
jkim5453's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougaldy View Post

Jkim,

Thats intersting that your changes to the picture settings stay when you swith it to PC. Mine stay but as soon as I put it in 3D mode it automatically changes to Dynamic and the only settings I can play with are the brightness and contrast.

With the input named "PC", most options are greyed out in 3D mode, but I can still change among "Movie", "Standard", and "Dynamic" modes and change the brightness/contrast settings - but that's about it (i.e. can't change, tint, color, sharpness, etc.)

The important point I wanted to make was the "HDMI Black Level" setting. With input named "PC", this is also not accessible to change. On my TV (HL67A750), whatever value you had it set before naming the input to "PC" is what's in effect after you change the name to "PC" even if the greyed value shown may indicate otherwise.

With my Viewsonics, I started experimenting with viewing in "Dynamic" mode with brightness increased to 50 (contrast still at 100) to offset the overall dimming effect and improve the shadow detail a bit (above 50 the blacks definitely wash out for me). I wish the LEDs were at least 50% brighter (I run it at "Max"). To my untrained eyes, it looks like the shift to the much cooler color temperature isn't that apparent through the glasses, but I'll have to look at some different material. I think "Grand Canyon Adventures" might be a good one to see just how cool the colors get when viewing in "Dynamic" mode.

joe
jkim5453 is offline  
post #479 of 517 Old 12-17-2010, 08:33 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Bob7145's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Dollars, Taxes
Posts: 2,105
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 31
Just watched Dr. Strangelove (black and white) 2D to 3D conversion using PDVD10 Ultra and absolutely no hint of color. Viewsonic PGD-150 DLP glasses. I love these glasses. The power switch (doubles as inverter switch) is probably immune to accidental presses. Easy to do on other glasses if you are left handed.
Light weight. Comfortable.
Watched: Imax Deep Sea 3D, Color 2D to 3D conversion movie and a Black and White 2D to 3D conversion movie. All looked great.
Glad I waited for them to get back in stock.
Bob7145 is offline  
post #480 of 517 Old 12-18-2010, 04:54 PM
Advanced Member
 
BioSehnsucht's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 721
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just spent several hours playing Call of Duty: Black Ops on my HL61A750 (reprogrammed the EDID and using a Mitsubishi 3DA-1 since CoD:BO only supports side-by-side output) with a pair of ViewSonic PGD150's - never lost sync once. I also ran through some downloaded 3D content via my computer, don't have any 3D Blu-Rays yet even though my Panasonic DMP-BDT100 came in as well. I didn't want to invest any further than I had to before knowing the glasses and all would work - time to order a second PGD-150 and a movie or two!
BioSehnsucht is offline  
Reply 3D Tech Talk

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off