Ultra-Clear DLP Glasses for Under $60 - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 593 Old 01-05-2011, 08:58 PM
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Uhhmmm, something is still wrong. I can use mine with 6 flourescent ceiling lamps and one compact spiral flourescent bulb lamp on with zero problems. Are you sure there is not another problem? I even have a ceiling fan going between me and the TV that I suspected would scatter the DLP link and yet no issues. The last thing for me to test is full daylight with sunshine streaming in.

You may want to play with your TV settings a bit. I could not be happier than I am with mine except for the rainbow thing.

EDIT: try switching the TV and Panny to SBS and see if the problem persists. Maybe you need to turn off the IR signal in that TV though I am not familiar with your unit. I am just saying that based on my experience you got a lot for your money and if you decide to ditch them, PM me and I will gladly take them from you for a fair price. I would rather you get the same performance I do out of mine. Good luck and stay with it.
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post #182 of 593 Old 01-05-2011, 09:18 PM
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The 60738 unlike previous Mits models forces a choice between IR and DLP Link in the 3D menu. Currently I have it set to checkerboard, reversed, and DLP Link.

Tomorrow I will have to try side by side though as you suggested and see if that provides any difference.
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post #183 of 593 Old 01-05-2011, 10:38 PM
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I just got a pair of these this week an spent some time last night directly comparing them with my optomas that are also dlp link.

I have a mitsu 838 model and use a ps3 to play 3D.

I don't know if other people are having the same problem as I am, but when I first try and connect via dlp link, it doesn't work or hold every single time. This is after I put in the disc, turn the tv to automatic, dlplink, reverse, and turn the glasses on at the appropriate time.

BUT this problem is easily solved if I change to a different input for 2 seconds and then back to the ps3. It works every time and the dlp link holds after that without dropping. I wonder if others have this same issue and the same fix would help them.

Once this is all done, I can play 3d with both sets in pretty much a bright room (though why i would i don't know). i didn't have any issue with losing sync on the clears (or the optomas). They are VERY light and I think more comfortable than the optomas. I looked for rainbows (on despicable me) and didn't see any. also no drops with turning head unless I turn completely around.

The plastic is pretty flimsy and i wonder how they'll hold up the first time my child sits on them. On that note, they were small enough that my 5 and 8 year old children could wear them. They do cover glasses as well but not with as much room as the optomas. Because of their smaller size, I noticed the overhead lights more when on than I did with the optomas so if you plan on watching/playing games in bright overhead much these may not be the glasses for you.

Picture quality..... brilliant and clear and seems to be true to color. I had the impression that possibly the optomas were slightly brighter/crisp in color but couldn't say positively. I went back and forth many many times on different scenes and in the end I decided it was close enough that it didn't matter.

I went ahead and ordered 2 more pair. Will still want to try out the new xpand 104s maybe when they come out (if not too expensive), and am tempted to splurge on a pair of those crystaleyes, but I don't think I need to.

In the end, I feel like these may be the monoprice of glasses and show how much we are getting ripped on other brands. I'll post again if I have problems with the other sets when they get in.
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post #184 of 593 Old 01-05-2011, 10:49 PM
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I like mine too... IR type WD73838. After a day or so with them, i actually like the Mits ones better though... They are a bit brighter and I actually like the no frame part on the bottom. The glasses with the bottom frames make it look like im looking through a frame, or as my wife puts it a "tunnel"

We also noticed after we decided this, that our regular everyday shades don't have that bottom frame either..So i guess its just our personal preference. Again though, these Ultra Clear (IR) do darken the display up and on that alone I prefer the Mits. I was thinking about ordering the CrystalEyes, yet they have that bottom frame also.... So I think im going to order the "Samsung SSG-P2100T 3D Starter Kit" so I can get 2 more glasses and save the UC's for guests.

I love this new tech..Yet this Glasses stuff...Trial and error is truly for the Birds...
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post #185 of 593 Old 01-06-2011, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoangelo View Post

The 60738 unlike previous Mits models forces a choice between IR and DLP Link in the 3D menu.

It's not a choice. It just will also turn Dlp link on or off. IR will still output. I did this in the store and on my folks 73738 to see the Dlp link flash using mitsubishi glasses to compare it to my 65736. The Dlp link flash is more grayish on the 738 compared to greenish on my 736.
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post #186 of 593 Old 01-06-2011, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltDoc View Post

Picture quality..... brilliant and clear and seems to be true to color. I had the impression that possibly the optomas were slightly brighter/crisp in color but couldn't say positively. I went back and forth many many times on different scenes and in the end I decided it was close enough that it didn't matter.

Thank you for the comparison. I was undecided between these and the Viewsonics (same as Optomas except with polarity switch) and need to reverse L/R so your impression helps. Are rainbows more noticeable with one vs the other, or also pretty much the same?
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post #187 of 593 Old 01-06-2011, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoodily View Post

It's not a choice. It just will also turn Dlp link on or off. IR will still output. I did this in the store and on my folks 73738 to see the Dlp link flash using mitsubishi glasses to compare it to my 65736. The Dlp link flash is more grayish on the 738 compared to greenish on my 736.

I see. I don't have an IR emitter to be able to test this but I had heard that it could possibly be the case that the IR emitter wouldn't be turned off regardless of selection. Good to know.
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post #188 of 593 Old 01-06-2011, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoangelo View Post

I have a Mit 60738 DLP and a Panasonic DMP-BDT100.

3D is set as checkerboard.

The glasses try to sync up but are never able to for longer then about five seconds.

Guys help me out here. Why are we setting the Mits TV to checkerboard? doesn't the TV convert whatever the 3D format is to checkerboard? I thought the selction of 3D formats ie. side by side, top/bottom, etc had to do with the source format. For example, some broadcast content is top/bottom...therefore you would select top/bottom on the TV and the TV converts it to checkerboard. 3D blu ray disks are not checkerboard format unless there is an option to choose format from the disk (to the best of my knowledge)...so therefore the TV should be set to Automatic?

Is my logic flawed?
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post #189 of 593 Old 01-06-2011, 08:52 AM
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On the Mits 60738 unless I am mistaken there is no option for automatic. When I select the 3D Mode menu I am given the options:

3D Mode - on, off
Source Format - Checkerboard, Side by Side
Glasses L/R - Standard, Reverse
Glasses Control - IR Emitter, DLP Link

My understanding (admittedly limited) is that I need to set both my Panasonic blu ray and tv to the same format. Because the Mits 60738 originally supported only checkerboard (until the recent firmware update) I selected that option on both my player and tv. The UC glasses require reverse to be selected on my tv in order to correctly display the 3D effect. l

The glasses control is a bit misleading, because as has been stated selecting DLP Link does turn on the Link functionality but does not turn off the IR Emitter. (Which causes me to wonder why they didn't just provide the option to either enable or disable DLP Link instead of implying that it was a selection between the two...).
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post #190 of 593 Old 01-06-2011, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jadocs View Post


Guys help me out here. Why are we setting the Mits TV to checkerboard? doesn't the TV convert whatever the 3D format is to checkerboard? I thought the selction of 3D formats ie. side by side, top/bottom, etc had to do with the source format. For example, some broadcast content is top/bottom...therefore you would select top/bottom on the TV and the TV converts it to checkerboard. 3D blu ray disks are not checkerboard format unless there is an option to choose format from the disk (to the best of my knowledge)...so therefore the TV should be set to Automatic?

Is my logic flawed?

You are correct. When you select a format in the TV's menu you are telling it what format the source device is outputting. Automatic will work for a HDMI 1.4 device, such as a 3D blu-ray player. Some devices (such as the PS3) that have an older HDMI version are able to function as 1.4 (in terms of 3D) through a firmware update. Sometimes you may need to manually set the format such as when playing a side by side clip from a PC.
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post #191 of 593 Old 01-06-2011, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoangelo View Post

On the Mits 60738 unless I am mistaken there is no option for automatic. When I select the 3D Mode menu I am given the options:

3D Mode - on, off
Source Format - Checkerboard, Side by Side
Glasses L/R - Standard, Reverse
Glasses Control - IR Emitter, DLP Link

My understanding (admittedly limited) is that I need to set both my Panasonic blu ray and tv to the same format. Because the Mits 60738 originally supported only checkerboard (until the recent firmware update) I selected that option on both my player and tv. The UC glasses require reverse to be selected on my tv in order to correctly display the 3D effect. l

The glasses control is a bit misleading, because as has been stated selecting DLP Link does turn on the Link functionality but does not turn off the IR Emitter. (Which causes me to wonder why they didn't just provide the option to either enable or disable DLP Link instead of implying that it was a selection between the two...).

There is a firmware update for your TV that will add the automatic setting. Check Mitsubishi's website for installation instructions.
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post #192 of 593 Old 01-06-2011, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcterp View Post

There is a firmware update for your TV that will add the automatic setting. Check Mitsubishi's website for installation instructions.

* Removed prior post because I found the method from Mitsubishi's website.
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post #193 of 593 Old 01-06-2011, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcterp View Post

You are correct. When you select a format in the TV's menu you are telling it what format the source device is outputting. Automatic will work for a HDMI 1.4 device, such as a 3D blu-ray player. Some devices (such as the PS3) that have an older HDMI version are able to function as 1.4 (in terms of 3D) through a firmware update. Sometimes you may need to manually set the format such as when playing a side by side clip from a PC.

Playing games on the 360 for 3D you need to do that also... Black ops for instance, when I tell is 3D in game..i have to manually change my Mits to side by side as automatic wont work. Hopefully MS will get this fixed. Ive also had to do this a few times with some VOD content from Direct TV too... Most of the time it will auto set it correctly.

Mist WD73838
PS3
360
BDT-100
RX-A1000
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post #194 of 593 Old 01-06-2011, 01:01 PM
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My buddy's kid brought over her PS3 last night when they came to watch Resident Evil Afterlife in 3D on my Samsung DLP with my Mitsubishi 3DA1 format adapter (TV's HDMI EDID hacked) from my Sony BDP-S570 3D BD Player and I hadn't turned off the TV's 3D mode when switching from the BDP to the PS3, and as I connected the PS3 it switched itself from the analog composite mode she normally uses over to HDMI automatically (her PS3's TV at their house is an old SD CRT) and then when I put the CoD Black Ops game disc in it didn't even ask, it threw up a splash screen about being 3D and that if you feel sick or otherwise uncomfortable remove the glasses and seek medical attention and then up came the game in 3D without any user interaction required... and it was pretty damn awesome! I LOVED the view through the scope on the big-ass rifle she had, so damn realistic!
Occasionally for DirecTV's n3D-VOD 3D content on my HR23 HD-DVR Receiver, depending on whether I choose to play an already downloaded program from the "My Playlist" menu or the VOD channel's program list determines whether the Mitsu 3DA1 automatically fires up 3D mode and chooses SBS or if I have to manually grab its' remote and set it up for 3D. From the VOD channel it does everything automatically and gets it right every time, but from the "My Playlist" menu it totally doesn't...

Just to stay somewhat on-topic though, when they came over last nigh his daughter and I ended up using my 2 pairs of Mitsu/Samsung SSG-2100 glasses and her dad used a pair of my IR Ultra Clear's because he came over by himself the night before and we watched 3D Avatar with the SSG's and he wanted to compare the two different brands of glasses for use through a whole movie this time. He also asked her to try the IR UC's for a minute as the Resident Evil movie began and then choose which pair she liked better and she said the IR UC's looked good but the SSG's weren't as dark so she asked to use the SSG's and her dad obliged her.
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post #195 of 593 Old 01-06-2011, 01:09 PM
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Side note that's directly related to this thread...

I wish the title of this thread actually said "DLP-Link" instead of just DLP since Ultra-Clear also offers an identical looking IR version of these glasses for the same price that works on DLP sets (and works very well too!) if you get an IR Emitter and many people/noobs don't know or understand that there's more than one sync system and that IR is available on most 3D HDTV's (although it's not quite "universal/standardized" yet) while DLP-Link is specific to DLP tv's, or that the IR and DLP-Link version of these same glasses perform differently from each other and each have different types of little issues and can encounter different problems depending on the TV room's lighting conditions and TV you're trying to use them with, among other things...
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post #196 of 593 Old 01-07-2011, 09:13 AM
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Just received my 2nd order of 2 more pairs of UC DLP Links's, packaged good awesome as expected.

Update on my first pair after further testing.

PROS: No ghosting, no rainbows, image clear/crisp, comfortable, lightweight, fits children (6years old, notmy 4 year old... but can use a band to hold on)

CONS: Cannot find a single CON, except i paid $24 shipping because i'min canada so the CON is.. i wish Ultra Clears were located in Canada so save me on shipping LOL
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post #197 of 593 Old 01-07-2011, 09:51 AM
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Got to try mine out last night after receiving my 5360 back from an RMA. They wouldn't hold synch with either some video files or a 3d BD disc I have. They'd be ok for a few minutes and then everything would look green and washed out and then they'd clear up again. I had no lights on and had the nVidia emitter plugged in but semi hidden.

Do I need to unplug the emitter after starting the UC glasses?
I'll try again tonight after dark, but so far not to impressed.
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post #198 of 593 Old 01-07-2011, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy3d View Post

Got to try mine out last night after receiving my 5360 back from an RMA. They wouldn't hold synch with either some video files or a 3d BD disc I have. They'd be ok for a few minutes and then everything would look green and washed out and then they'd clear up again. I had no lights on and had the nVidia emitter plugged in but semi hidden.

Do I need to unplug the emitter after starting the UC glasses?
I'll try again tonight after dark, but so far not to impressed.

Did you switch the projector to DLP link mode? You will lose sync if youre not in DLP link mode (at least I did) I have the same setup and never had to unplug the emitter. No sync problems with the UC glasses. I have viewsonics as well and notice the UC glasses have a little bit more greenish tinge compared to the viewsonics. Also notice the tint change when moving my head up and down as someone else previously posted. Overall I think the glasses are good if you need extras for guests.
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post #199 of 593 Old 01-07-2011, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Wutang View Post
Did you switch the projector to DLP link mode? You will lose sync if youre not in DLP link mode (at least I did) I have the same setup and never had to unplug the emitter. No sync problems with the UC glasses. I have viewsonics as well and notice the UC glasses have a little bit more greenish tinge compared to the viewsonics. Also notice the tint change when moving my head up and down as someone else previously posted. Overall I think the glasses are good if you need extras for guests.
I had the pj in the correct mode, but I don't think I had the emitter hidden well enough. Put it under a little box tonite and tried again and everything worked perfect!! Think I'll pick up a couple more pair
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post #200 of 593 Old 01-08-2011, 01:04 PM
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I got to test all 4 sets of UC DLP-LINK glasses on Sammy HL67A750 with Panny BDT300. In dimmed lighting, it was hard to make these glasses lose sync/flicker from about 12ft away. During the day light, it was much easier to lose sync just by turning my head for a second, but not when aimed directly to the screen. This is good news. These UC glasses work very well in our home even during the day.

Only question I do have is that I have heard these glasses do show lighter or brighter picture compared to the other brands. If I were to mix match other brands in the future it would definitely impact 3D PQ. In 3d mode, I did have to adjust the brightness of the screen -10 from the normal calibrated setting to get the blacks back to acceptable level. If the other brands are darker, this would require different brightness settings for optimal PQ for individual brands.

Is this the problem you experience for those using UC DLP LINK with other brands?
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post #201 of 593 Old 01-09-2011, 08:57 AM
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This was posted in a UC glasses thread.

"Add a couple of Ultra Clear DLP Link glasses for $60 each (check great reviews on AVS forum) and you won't need an emitter."

I have the panny 100 ,UC glasses and mits 2009 set. I think I will still need to but a mits emitter.
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post #202 of 593 Old 01-09-2011, 12:16 PM
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You only need a Mits IR emitter if you have Mits or Samsung IR glasses. Use of DLP-Link glasses requires no separate emitter since the The DLP-Link white flash on the screen between the frames emits the signal to the DLP-Link glasses.
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post #203 of 593 Old 01-09-2011, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by walford View Post

You only need a Mits IR emitter if you have Mits or Samsung IR glasses. Use of DLP-Link glasses requires no separate emitter since the The DLP-Link white flash on the screen between the frames emits the signal to the DLP-Link glasses.


Thanks Walford!
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post #204 of 593 Old 01-09-2011, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j007m View Post

This was posted in a UC glasses thread.

"Add a couple of Ultra Clear DLP Link glasses for $60 each (check great reviews on AVS forum) and you won't need an emitter."

I have the panny 100 ,UC glasses and mits 2009 set. I think I will still need to but a mits emitter.

If you have those items you should be viewing 3d material. That is all I have except my TV is a Sammy 61a750 DLP and I am good to go. BTW, mode 2 is the one that works with my UC DLPs for my TV. Your TV may be different, so check it out if you do not feel the 3d is satisfactory.

Now if you are looking to go further such as 3d content from dish or other provider other than 3d blu ray, or PC output that handles checkerboard, you may need additional hardware.
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post #205 of 593 Old 01-09-2011, 09:11 PM
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I got 2 pairs of these earlier this week and they are working great. I'm using them with my Mitsu 65C10 and couldn't ask for a better picture.

I purchased the 3DA-1 and am using the PS3 for gaming and videos and have directv sending me a new DVR as I have an older model (HR20).

They sync fine, all I had to do was have my TV swith the left/right orientation. At first the default way was wrong and I wasn't to impressed watching Despicable Me and then I switched the left/right to reverse and Wow.

I have always said 3D is more of a gimmick but it was to difficult to not try it out for the price these glasses are selling for and a gift card I used to partially get the 3DA-1. I'm glad their is an option like this out their for more affordable glasses that are the real deal.
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post #206 of 593 Old 01-10-2011, 08:22 AM
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Thanks for posting guys. My first 3d experience is about to happen today..... Step up 3d is out for usps delivery.
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post #207 of 593 Old 01-10-2011, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j007m
Thanks for posting guys. My first 3d experience is about to happen today..... Step up 3d is out for usps delivery.
That movie was pretty tight. Wait til you see the asian girl in black & red during the battle scene and the weird robotic guy.
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post #208 of 593 Old 01-10-2011, 10:35 AM
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That movie was pretty tight. Wait til you see the asian girl in black & red during the battle scene and the weird robotic guy.

Do you have the time for those? I have a 2D version and would love to forward to that scene to check it out on the disk. I didn't have time to watch the entire movie yet.

Thanks.

I am compiling a list of 3D "demo" to show off the setup.
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post #209 of 593 Old 01-10-2011, 11:33 AM
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Woohoo! My UC DLP glasses just came in today, and my Fiance can already tell a difference between these and the Xpand 102s. Can't wait to check 'em out after work.
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post #210 of 593 Old 01-10-2011, 12:26 PM
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Well, I watched my second 3d movie yesterday. The first was MBV and it looked good but had some rainbow. The second was RE Afterlife which has some good 3d ( had no clue about the storyline of previous movies, just wanted something to watch) and I have to report that the UC DLP Link glasses worked great. No ghosting or stutter/flicker. However this movie had me and my son looking for the old pot of gold at the bottom of each side of the screen because there was a lot more rainbow evident in this title than MBV.

So this was a bit disappointing but did not kill the movie. Not always there but more so due to more light scenes. So to get rid of this I could go IR but I cannot turn off the DLP link so that will have a negative impact on those units. I could also get the high end CE DLP units which reportedly eliminate rainbow but are pricey.

I have decided to do nothing since I do not watch 3d that much and the experience is sufficient enough for me at present. I am going to wait and watch this technology evolve and see if some other manufacturer solves the rainbow at a cheaper price. I mean it is 45* folks. I tilt my head 45* and most of the rainbow disappears. Geeez.

Anyway, that is my observation of the UC DLPs to date. Hope this helps with people researching. For me, Panny 100 and two UC DLP glasses @ $275 total and nothing else. I am enjoying 3d albeit with slight quality hit on certain bright scenes. Color, contrast and clarity along with 3d depth effect is great except that annoying rainbow.

OH, almost forgot. I have the cheapy glasses version of MBV also and compared the two. The cheapy has no rainbow obviously but has other issues such as it is not in any kind of HD in that format. Fair 3d effect but lots of ghosting and becomes an eyestrain after a while with those cardboard glasses. Watchable though. The UC glasses version is much better obviously.
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