DLP link or Ir emitter 3d glasses ,which is better - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 01-06-2011, 04:59 PM - Thread Starter
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I would like to hear other opinions,which is better dlp link or ir emitters.Iam going to be getting a Mits WD60638 in a couple of months.Not sure which glasses to get.
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post #2 of 18 Old 01-06-2011, 05:56 PM
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Which make/model of DLP-Link glasses are you considering?
Which make/modlel ot IR emitter and compatible glasses are you considering?
Since your are considerinmg a xx638 model instead of a xx738 or xx838 model your options are more limited since depending on the 3D progranm source you are planning on you most likely have to purchase the Mits 3d adapter at a minimum.
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post #3 of 18 Old 01-06-2011, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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I was thinking of getting the Mitsubishi 3DA-1 starter pack with the 2 ir emitter glasses.I have heard good things about these glasses.Once i get the adapter my options are wide open on my glasses decision.Just not sure on the dlp link.I Have watched a movie use ir emitter glasses for about 15 mins.Was impressed,alot better than i thought it would be.
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post #4 of 18 Old 01-07-2011, 08:40 AM
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With the Mits 3D DLP TV you will have some issues to solve if you try and Mix DLP-Link and the Mts glasses.
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post #5 of 18 Old 01-07-2011, 03:23 PM
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I have a pair of X102s (DLP-Link) that work perfectly with my Samsung DLP, but they lose sync constantly with my parents new Mits DLP (73738).

Currently testing 3D with Sammy DLP, shutter glasses, and HTPC
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post #6 of 18 Old 01-08-2011, 07:09 AM
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I'm debating the same thing. I have 73738 and I'm not sure if I want to go the IT Emitter route or use DLP Sync.

Any other advice?

Cheapest option?
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post #7 of 18 Old 01-08-2011, 07:30 AM
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When I went to the showroom to buy a WD73838 they had both options available for viewing. In the end, i liked the IR better. The DLP lost sync allot if I turned my head for a second which got annoying to say the least. The IR on the other hand didn't and to me looked a bit better and cleaner on the visuals. They had running there that Meatball movie.

So that is the route i went when i got my system home. I now own 4 IR Mitsu glasses and 2 IR Ultra clears for guests.
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post #8 of 18 Old 01-08-2011, 08:10 AM
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Any idea where to get the best deal on the IR emitter and some glasses?

Thanks
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post #9 of 18 Old 01-14-2011, 10:29 PM
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I just purchased both the Ultra Clear 3d Glasses ($59) and the Mitsubishi starter kit. I played several movies include the Disney 3d sample disk. I have to say I differ on the opinion of some others about them. Out of the 3 of us we all thought the Mitsubishi glasses were better. I wouldn't say it was night and day better but for sure a little better picture. I did notice a little flicker in the frames of the Ultra Clear 3d glasses at certain points in the movies. Would I go to the store and purchase $130 Mitsubishi 3d glasses if I could find them over these Utlra Clear 3d Glasses, no. The different isn't worth $70 more a pair for the Mitsubishi 3d glasses.

For the Ultra Clear 3d glasses I used the IR emitter from Mistubishi, but they do sell a DLP version but I can't tell you if they are any good. Still you can buy 2 pair of Ultra Clear's for less then the price of 1 Mistubishi pair or Samsung. In the end we all thought with either pair of 3d glasses it was a much better experience then going to the movies and watching 3d.
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post #10 of 18 Old 01-15-2011, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelchristphr View Post

I just purchased both the Ultra Clear 3d Glasses ($59) and the Mitsubishi starter kit. I played several movies include the Disney 3d sample disk. I have to say I differ on the opinion of some others about them. Out of the 3 of us we all thought the Mitsubishi glasses were better. I wouldn't say it was night and day better but for sure a little better picture. I did notice a little flicker in the frames of the Ultra Clear 3d glasses at certain points in the movies. Would I go to the store and purchase $130 Mitsubishi 3d glasses if I could find them over these Utlra Clear 3d Glasses, no. The different isn't worth $70 more a pair for the Mitsubishi 3d glasses.

For the Ultra Clear 3d glasses I used the IR emitter from Mistubishi, but they do sell a DLP version but I can't tell you if they are any good. Still you can buy 2 pair of Ultra Clear's for less then the price of 1 Mistubishi pair or Samsung. In the end we all thought with either pair of 3d glasses it was a much better experience then going to the movies and watching 3d.

I agree... I liked the Mits better also. Although they don't fit my melon as nice as the UC's do, the overall appearance when watching a 3D flick is quite a few grades up with the mits. I now have 4 mits glasses and 2 UC's for guests .
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post #11 of 18 Old 01-19-2011, 08:40 PM
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Can someone please explain to me the mitsubishi 65738 model 3D!!!!? Let me explain; i just purchased the new mitsu wd-65738 model and am currently waiting for it to arrive. I have a ps3 and absolutly love blu ray and am wondering if my tv is going to support all the future ps3 3d gaming (Killzone 3 etc...) and blu ray 3d technology. I read that the ps3 games use a different format of 3d other than checkerboard which is what my dlp supports. am i going to be able to play present/future ps3 3d games and 3d blu rays withiut a problem or am i out of luck because i will take back the 65738 model and pony up another thousand to get an led lcd 3d tv, although i want to keep the dlp (it will be my first dlp, i also own a 42' RCA LCD 1080p full hdtv!) someone please explain this to me because im freaking out!!!!!!!!!
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post #12 of 18 Old 01-19-2011, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soccersweeper8 View Post

Can someone please explain to me the mitsubishi 65738 model 3D!!!!? Let me explain; i just purchased the new mitsu wd-65738 model and am currently waiting for it to arrive. I have a ps3 and absolutly love blu ray and am wondering if my tv is going to support all the future ps3 3d gaming (Killzone 3 etc...) and blu ray 3d technology. I read that the ps3 games use a different format of 3d other than checkerboard which is what my dlp supports. am i going to be able to play present/future ps3 3d games and 3d blu rays withiut a problem or am i out of luck because i will take back the 65738 model and pony up another thousand to get an led lcd 3d tv, although i want to keep the dlp (it will be my first dlp, i also own a 42' RCA LCD 1080p full hdtv!) someone please explain this to me because im freaking out!!!!!!!!!

Your Good to go. Just get the newest firmware update for your Mits and make sure you running High Speed HDMI cables. You can do IR or DLP, depending on which way you want to go.

EDIT - Looks like you got you got your second follow up question answered here

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post19861774

No need to double post ... Congrats on your new set.
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post #13 of 18 Old 01-20-2011, 07:20 AM
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I'm another one in the same boat trying to decide between Emitter based glasses or DLP-Link glasses. I have the Mits WD82-738 with updated firmware and I have watched 3D using an Emitter I borrowed and it does look good although I do notice the picture goes slightly darker as soon as I go into 3D mode, not sure if this is normal or not. Maybe someone can answer that as well.
If I have to buy emitter then was thinking of buying the universal one sold by 3dtv-corp on ebay (LINK) .

I would really like to hear from people who have also tried DLP-Link glasses with the Mits tv and are able to compare to the IR glasses and which they find "better".
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post #14 of 18 Old 01-20-2011, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_jbloggs View Post

I'm another one in the same boat trying to decide between Emitter based glasses or DLP-Link glasses. I have the Mits WD82-738 with updated firmware and I have watched 3D using an Emitter I borrowed and it does look good although I do notice the picture goes slightly darker as soon as I go into 3D mode, not sure if this is normal or not. Maybe someone can answer that as well.
If I have to buy emitter then was thinking of buying the universal one sold by 3dtv-corp on ebay (LINK) .

I would really like to hear from people who have also tried DLP-Link glasses with the Mits tv and are able to compare to the IR glasses and which they find "better".

i use the Mits glasses in IR.... They do darken up the screen some, yet not as much as the UC's do. I did try DLP at the showroom floor to compare and I liked the IR better. They were darker than the mits...and the biggest thing was they lost sync when i turned my head away for a second or too. With Kids running around and a life around me, its not possible to just peg my eyes on the screen and not turn from time to time.

Anyways that's the route I took thus far is with IR.... i wish the Mits glasses didn't make the screen go a couple shades darker, yet as said, they are the best ones Ive tried thus far.
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post #15 of 18 Old 01-20-2011, 10:26 AM
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Want to echo the advise given already, that mixing DLPLink and emitter glasses can bring unsatisfactory results. The DLP flash doesn't help the emitter glasses experience, and getting both kinds of glasses to synchronize together correctly can be a challenge.

I see the OP was not talking about even trying to mix emitter with DLPLink glasses, and that would be a good reason to research out which way to go before investing in either.

I personally don't know which would be better with that particular TV, but with front projection, emitter glasses do have one advantage over DLP Link, and that is that the left eye first sync is consistently correct with emitter systems, but with DLP Link and front projectors the viewer has to determine whether the left eye view is being sent to the left eye as intended, and then manually switch the orientation to correct if it is not. That happens exactly half the time every time you start up the player for a new viewing session when you are using a projector. Not such a problem for me, but a nuisance that emitter glasses do not impose.

On the other hand, with my projector and screen, the DLP Link glasses maintain their sync well no matter where I walk around in the room, while the emitter glasses are more sensitive to cut on and off when I move or turn away from the emitter. Lets face it, my screen is an 8 ft. wide emitter - kind of hard to lose contact with it. That would not be as much of an issue with a smaller screen, with a more robust emitter, or with an emitter set closer to the viewers than mine is. Both kinds of glasses always regain their sync and return to correct functioning quickly enough once I turn back facing the picture.

After all this rambling, I would say either system is plenty fine, and the main consideration would be to standardize on the one you can stick with, and whichever costs less.
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post #16 of 18 Old 01-20-2011, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrickMcKaha View Post

Want to echo the advise given already, that mixing DLPLink and emitter glasses can bring unsatisfactory results. The DLP flash doesn't help the emitter glasses experience, and getting both kinds of glasses to synchronize together correctly can be a challenge.

I see the OP was not talking about even trying to mix emitter with DLPLink glasses, and that would be a good reason to research out which way to go before investing in either.

I personally don't know which would be better with that particular TV, but with front projection, emitter glasses do have one advantage over DLP Link, and that is that the left eye first sync is consistently correct with emitter systems, but with DLP Link and front projectors the viewer has to determine whether the left eye view is being sent to the left eye as intended, and then manually switch the orientation to correct if it is not. That happens exactly half the time every time you start up the player for a new viewing session when you are using a projector. Not such a problem for me, but a nuisance that emitter glasses do not impose.

On the other hand, with my projector and screen, the DLP Link glasses maintain their sync well no matter where I walk around in the room, while the emitter glasses are more sensitive to cut on and off when I move or turn away from the emitter. Lets face it, my screen is an 8 ft. wide emitter - kind of hard to lose contact with it. That would not be as much of an issue with a smaller screen, with a more robust emitter, or with an emitter set closer to the viewers than mine is. Both kinds of glasses always regain their sync and return to correct functioning quickly enough once I turn back facing the picture.

After all this rambling, I would say either system is plenty fine, and the main consideration would be to standardize on the one you can stick with, and whichever costs less.

If you step away long enough for the DLP-link glasses to auto shut off, what would happen when you turn it back on? Is the syn still fine?

My system is entirely IR (I have 3 DLP-link glasses coming) and so far I am very happy with it.
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post #17 of 18 Old 01-20-2011, 01:42 PM
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Yes, the sync on DLP Link glasses (both from Optoma and from Viewsonic) stays synced so long as your projector keeps playing (or even pauses) the movie or video, whether you walk out of the room or turn off the glasses and then later turn them back on. I'm not sure how DLP Link does this, but I tested it many times with 3 different pair of glasses, and it worked this way 100%.

Even more, if you have several pair of DLP Link glasses and start watching a video with one pair correctly synced, you can turn on another pair at any time and they will be correctly synced 100% also.

I tested this out at some length using a video with clearly different R and L eye views. I was reading some controversy about DLP Link sync and wanted to be sure what is and what isn't.
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post #18 of 18 Old 01-21-2011, 08:46 AM
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The DLP-Link White Flash betweem frames from the TV screen has encoded in it which lens eye to turn and which lens eye to turn off.
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