Official Monster Vision Max 3D Thread - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 1065 Old 01-16-2012, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Thanks for the input. When you say to buy a charger, im confused by that. I thought these would be able to charge via the provided usb cable? Is there an actual charger for these?

I use an old cell phone charger for my glasses. I know some USB ports don't have or can't supply the DC current required to use as a charging device.
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post #362 of 1065 Old 01-16-2012, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Thanks for the input. When you say to buy a charger, im confused by that. I thought these would be able to charge via the provided usb cable? Is there an actual charger for these?

Also my glasses were dead when I first got them.
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post #363 of 1065 Old 01-16-2012, 08:21 PM
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I use an old cell phone charger for my glasses. I know some USB ports don't have or can't supply the DC current required to use as a charging device.

Well I have a bluetooth headset that has a charger that plugs into the wall. I tried connecting my glasses into that via usb and still nothing. This doesnt make sense......

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post #364 of 1065 Old 01-16-2012, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Well I have a bluetooth headset that has a charger that plugs into the wall. I tried connecting my glasses into that via usb and still nothing. This doesnt make sense......

My old LG charger can supply 700ma of current. With it plugged into your Bluetooth charger press hard on the power button and hold it down until it turns on. It should turn on with power supplied.
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post #365 of 1065 Old 01-17-2012, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

My old LG charger can supply 700ma of current. With it plugged into your Bluetooth charger press hard on the power button and hold it down until it turns on. It should turn on with power supplied.

Tried it. Still nothing......... Neither pair will turn on. However, I had one of them plugged into my laptop and after multiple attempts at unplugging and plugging back in, I finally had a blinking red light. After about 5 mintues, I unplugged them, held the power button down and nothing. I tried hooking it back up to the laptop and no light anymore. I'm very confused as to how I could end up with two bad pairs of these glasses....

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post #366 of 1065 Old 01-17-2012, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Tried it. Still nothing......... Neither pair will turn on. However, I had one of them plugged into my laptop and after multiple attempts at unplugging and plugging back in, I finally had a blinking red light. After about 5 mintues, I unplugged them, held the power button down and nothing. I tried hooking it back up to the laptop and no light anymore. I'm very confused as to how I could end up with two bad pairs of these glasses....

The recommended initial charge time on these is several hours (four, IIRC). You won't get any response from them after only a few minutes.

...Royce...

"I never drink...wine."
Bela Lugosi, DRACULA, 1931
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post #367 of 1065 Old 01-17-2012, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post

The recommended initial charge time on these is several hours (four, IIRC). You won't get any response from them after only a few minutes.

But isn't the LED light supposed to be on while they're charging??

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post #368 of 1065 Old 01-17-2012, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

But isn't the LED light supposed to be on while they're charging??

No not on while charging. Fully charged it will pluse slowly. Blinking means they are on looking for a sync from the emitter. The blinking stops after 5 minutes because they turn off. They are still charging after it stops blinking.
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post #369 of 1065 Old 01-17-2012, 10:19 AM
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Got tired of waiting for the x104s, and found out they weren't the only ones on the block with tunable glasses. Saw these in the double digits at amazon and figured what the hell, why not?

Im using a Samsung PN50C8000 plasma. The stock glasses are ok, but there is just way too much crosstalk in games. I'm hoping this can rectify some of that - and even if they're not better out of the box, hopefully I can tune it to my liking, sacrificing brightness for less crosstalk. Should have them in a few days.

Steam/PSN/Xbox Live: Darius510
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post #370 of 1065 Old 01-17-2012, 11:14 AM
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I keep wanting to pull the trigger on these but they keep going down in price. I don't wait to long though and eventually they sell out. Did monster reveal new glasses at ces or something?
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post #371 of 1065 Old 01-17-2012, 09:09 PM
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Ok. So I finally got the glasses charged and working. Thanks everyone for the input. Once I got everything setup, i decided to test out the glasses with my Sony 55HX820 LED. To my surprise, not only did these glasses not improve the crosstalk or ghosting, somehow it actually got worse! What the heck is up with that? I thought that was the whole point about these glasses. So looks like Im asking for help again if anyone has suggestions. Thanks!

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post #372 of 1065 Old 01-17-2012, 09:32 PM
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Oh, another update. Now, i get a message on my tv saying that i need to disconnect the usb device because its drawing too much current. WTF!!

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post #373 of 1065 Old 01-17-2012, 10:04 PM
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Well if your emitter is plugged in the USB and your getting that message that could be why you have bad crosstalk. Weak signal from not getting enough power. If you have any apple product trying using the USB power adapter in an outlet close enough to allow you to still place it where it needs to be for your glasses. Someone on here earlier stated they used their Xbox USB because the tv gave that same message.
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post #374 of 1065 Old 01-17-2012, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by brahby View Post

Well if your emitter is plugged in the USB and your getting that message that could be why you have bad crosstalk. Weak signal from not getting enough power. If you have any apple product trying using the USB power adapter in an outlet close enough to allow you to still place it where it needs to be for your glasses. Someone on here earlier stated they used their Xbox USB because the tv gave that same message.

Thanks for the tip on the power adapter. Unfortunately, the crosstalk and ghosting are still just as bad. Btw, ive got all the green lights on my emitter.

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post #375 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Thanks for the tip on the power adapter. Unfortunately, the crosstalk and ghosting are still just as bad. Btw, ive got all the green lights on my emitter.

You probably need to adjust duty cycle and shutter lens timing to match your TV's panels. Do you have the PC utility so you can make these adjustments? You can also use the joystick but I find that hard to use.
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post #376 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

You probably need to adjust duty cycle and shutter lens timing to match your TV's panels. Do you have the PC utility so you can make these adjustments? You can also use the joystick but I find that hard to use.

could you point me in the direction of the pc utility? i was able to make adjustments with the joystick but it was next to impossible
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post #377 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by oleus View Post

could you point me in the direction of the pc utility? i was able to make adjustments with the joystick but it was next to impossible

It's on the bottom of this page. The adjustment software is in the "firmware" download.

http://www.monstercable.com/max3d/default.asp
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post #378 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Ok. So I finally got the glasses charged and working. Thanks everyone for the input. Once I got everything setup, i decided to test out the glasses with my Sony 55HX820 LED. To my surprise, not only did these glasses not improve the crosstalk or ghosting, somehow it actually got worse! What the heck is up with that? I thought that was the whole point about these glasses. So looks like Im asking for help again if anyone has suggestions. Thanks!

I guess you didn't read my post about my experience with the glasses. I have Sony NX810. They did not improve crosstalk and you can't use TV usb port to power the IR dongle. I used Xbox to plug the USB cable and made a mess of my setup with wire hanging from top of TV where I keep the IR transmitter. I also played around with shutter speed and delay, none of it eliminate crosstalk or did anything. I finally gave up and return them.
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post #379 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 03:32 PM
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I guess you didn't read my post about my experience with the glasses. I have Sony NX810. They did not improve crosstalk and you can't use TV usb port to power the IR dongle. I used Xbox to plug the USB cable and made a mess of my setup with wire hanging from top of TV where I keep the IR transmitter. I also played around with shutter speed and delay, none of it eliminate crosstalk or did anything. I finally gave up and return them.

No, I actually didnt read your post about your experience with them. I wish I would have. The only reason I found out about these is due to someone elses post on the HX820 forum. He claimed that it eliminated 90% of his ghosting and crosstalk and that they were amazing. So, based off that, i felt like i had to try them. So you're saying that none of the adjustments helped at all??

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post #380 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 03:49 PM
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Dang.. All I can say is blessed be thyne DLP displays for 3D.

I'll have to look at the model of my friends Sony 3D setup. I have watched some 3D on it and did not notice ghosting or crosstalk. Only the one time did I get to watch 3D on it. We usually do 3D at my house. 110" theater setup at my house.
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post #381 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by JOHNnDENVER View Post

Dang.. All I can say is blessed be thyne DLP displays for 3D.

I'll have to look at the model of my friends Sony 3D setup. I have watched some 3D on it and did not notice ghosting or crosstalk. Only the one time did I get to watch 3D on it. We usually do 3D at my house. 110" theater setup at my house.

110" theater setup?? Thats awesome! My friend has the Mits 65738 dlp and the 3d on that is phenomenal! Wish i could say the same for my sony

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post #382 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dojoman View Post


I guess you didn't read my post about my experience with the glasses. I have Sony NX810. They did not improve crosstalk and you can't use TV usb port to power the IR dongle. I used Xbox to plug the USB cable and made a mess of my setup with wire hanging from top of TV where I keep the IR transmitter. I also played around with shutter speed and delay, none of it eliminate crosstalk or did anything. I finally gave up and return them.

That's strange. I have a NX810 and the USB power works fine. Never got an error and the 3d appears better than it was before.
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post #383 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

No, I actually didnt read your post about your experience with them. I wish I would have. The only reason I found out about these is due to someone elses post on the HX820 forum. He claimed that it eliminated 90% of his ghosting and crosstalk and that they were amazing. So, based off that, i felt like i had to try them. So you're saying that none of the adjustments helped at all??

Well they didn't help me at all. Adjusting the shutter delay just makes the image darker but I can still see crosstalk. It's pretty common with LED TV in general and we all have different visions so some do see more than others. The only time I did see crosstalk almost eliminated and I found this by accident. It may sound weird but during hot summer day the crosstalk seem to decrease significantly, especially during 90 deg weather. I confirmed this many times by re watching or playing 3D PS3 games where I saw too much crosstalk and indeed hot weather improves it. I wasn't sure why but I'm guess the circuit board seems to work a lot better when it's hot?
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post #384 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 04:38 PM
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That's strange. I have a NX810 and the USB power works fine. Never got an error and the 3d appears better than it was before.

Which size TV do you have? That is strange. When I plugged in the message pops on the TV and doesn't go away. I have 46".
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post #385 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 04:47 PM
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Which size TV do you have? That is strange. When I plugged in the message pops on the TV and doesn't go away. I have 46".

I have a 55. Its plugged into the USB port marked PC.
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post #386 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 05:10 PM
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Ok. So even though it prolly won't help with the ghosting and crosstalk on my Sony 55HX820, can I get some help on adjusting the duty cycle and delay for my glasses. Are you just supposed to blindly change the settings, hook up to your tv and see how it affects the pic or is there some kind of method to this madness? Thanks

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post #387 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Ok. So even though it prolly won't help with the ghosting and crosstalk on my Sony 55HX820, can I get some help on adjusting the duty cycle and delay for my glasses. Are you just supposed to blindly change the settings, hook up to your tv and see how it affects the pic or is there some kind of method to this madness? Thanks

When i was using my jvc for 3D I would pause on a scene with depth and or some image that pops out at you. Close one eye and adjust the timing until the double image goes away. Start with a lower duty cycle like 60 before changing the timing. Then when the double image goes away you increase duty cycle until you start seeing a double image again. Then adjust timing. If you then can't reduce the double image you reduce duty cycle. At some point you will get the best brightness and least amount of ghosting.

Ron
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post #388 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post


When i was using my jvc for 3D I would pause on a scene with depth and or some image that pops out at you. Close one eye and adjust the timing until the double image goes away. Start with a lower duty cycle like 60 before changing the timing. Then when the double image goes away you increase duty cycle until you start seeing a double image again. Then adjust timing. If you then can't reduce the double image you reduce duty cycle. At some point you will get the best brightness and least amount of ghosting.

Ron

I had to read it a few times but that actually makes sense. I'll give that a try. So did u adjust from a computer or did you use the joystick on the emitter?

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post #389 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

I had to read it a few times but that actually makes sense. I'll give that a try. So did u adjust from a computer or did you use the joystick on the emitter?

Used a laptop. The joystick is to touchy and impossible to fine tune.
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post #390 of 1065 Old 01-18-2012, 06:45 PM
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Used a laptop. The joystick is to touchy and impossible to fine tune.

Well, I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how it turns out.

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