Official Monster Vision Max 3D Thread - Page 18 - AVS Forum
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post #511 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtVideo View Post

Yes I have on all threads, and I've replied enough on this subject on the last several pages of this thread on this subject. I am not rewriting everything again just for you. Nice succinct lack of appreciation and effort on your part.

I actually read backwards to post #391 before posting the question and the search term "battery" revealed nothing of interest.

In your grumpiness, you probably forgot that the ONLY post where you mention how long a charge lasts does NOT have the word "battery" anywhere in it? Perhaps read your own idiocy before haranguing someone else?

Quote:
Originally Posted by coolplazma View Post

Did you observe the LED status at the end of your charging cycle? ...

"The LED will flash in a slow heart beat indicating full charge"

Yes, I got the 'slow heart beat', which I assume is the pulsing LED that dims and brightens gradually over a cycle a little faster than 70 beats per minute?

Still doesn't stay charged after letting it sit for a couple of weeks.

I guess it must be REALLY difficult for folks to post one-liners like
"Mine stay charged for weeks and are still usable"
or
"Mine are still usable after sitting for a month"


Max
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post #512 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djbluemax1 View Post

Nice succinct reply that is of absolutely no use whatsoever. Have you tried doing what you so glibly recommended? I did search before posting and that search pretty much revealed nothing of use.

There is mention of a potential problem with some glasses never fully charging, it pulls up complaints from some other folks about dying batteries. A few posts musing that the glasses might not be turning off for some reason. Nothing whatsoever about average battery life for the average owner.

So what are folks seeing on average for battery life? How many hours of use do you get on average with a full charge? If you fully charge the glasses and watch one movie, how long have you waited before using the glasses again and still had them last a whole movie without needing to be recharged first?

I've had 2 pairs of these (Monster rebranded) and they both will be dead (won't even turn on) if I charge them overnight, watch 1 movie, then let them sit for 2 weeks before trying to watch another.


Max

I have four pair of these glasses and three hold a charge for over two months even with 10+ hours of use on them. One pair behaves differently. I use two different cell phone chargers on these and one is rated at 700ma and the other 850ma. The higher current charger doesn't charge as well surprisingly. The glasses die more quickly and that one pair that is weaker just doesn't want to charge with the higher current charger. That one pair are the glasses sold by VIP and I am wondering if I have a pair with the wrong resistors installed.

It will still charge with the lower current charger and last 5 plus weeks though. The other 3 pair I just recharged but it had been about 2 months. Charged before Christmas. They were still going strong too. The 700ma charger is the best at charging these yet. Charger is from an old LG cell phone.

Ron
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post #513 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djbluemax1 View Post

I actually read backwards to post #391 before posting the question and the search term "battery" revealed nothing of interest.

In your grumpiness, you probably forgot that the ONLY post where you mention how long a charge lasts does NOT have the word "battery" anywhere in it? Perhaps read your own idiocy before haranguing someone else?



Yes, I got the 'slow heart beat', which I assume is the pulsing LED that dims and brightens gradually over a cycle a little faster than 70 beats per minute?

Still doesn't stay charged after letting it sit for a couple of weeks.

I guess it must be REALLY difficult for folks to post one-liners like
"Mine stay charged for weeks and are still usable"
or
"Mine are still usable after sitting for a month"


Max


I did the battery search myself before even referring you in that direction and there was enough information in there to help get you started. The bulk of it was in the February threads in this group.

I worked with the manufacturer last summer on this problem and submitted the test and measurement results to them and it was discovered an incorrect charge resistor was installed in a limited group of glasses. Figure it out for yourself if you have one of those.

Since I am an idiot, I will let those most qualified point you in the direction you need to go.
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post #514 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 01:43 PM
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If someone can shed more light on the issue without being snarky, I'm def interested. Might explain what's been happening with my pair.

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post #515 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bd2003 View Post

If someone can shed more light on the issue without being snarky, I'm def interested. Might explain what's been happening with my pair.

Pretty much explained in this post! http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post21665661
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post #516 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

I have four pair of these glasses and three hold a charge for over two months even with 10+ hours of use on them. One pair behaves differently. I use two different cell phone chargers on these and one is rated at 700ma and the other 850ma. The higher current charger doesn't charge as well surprisingly. The glasses die more quickly and that one pair that is weaker just doesn't want to charge with the higher current charger. That one pair are the glasses sold by VIP and I am wondering if I have a pair with the wrong resistors installed.

It will still charge with the lower current charger and last 5 plus weeks though. The other 3 pair I just recharged but it had been about 2 months. Charged before Christmas. They were still going strong too. The 700ma charger is the best at charging these yet. Charger is from an old LG cell phone.

Ron

Thanks. That's the kind of info I was looking for.

I've really only read about VIP glasses having the incorrect resistors. Haven't really seen too much about Monster glasses specifically with that problem. It makes me wonder how widespread the problem might have been? Potentially just a small batch that went to VIP, or maybe a larger batch that was distributed to several resellers?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtVideo View Post

I did the battery search myself before even referring you in that direction and there was enough information in there to help get you started. The bulk of it was in the February threads in this group.

I worked with the manufacturer last summer on this problem and submitted the test and measurement results to them and it was discovered an incorrect charge resistor was installed in a limited group of glasses. Figure it out for yourself if you have one of those.

Since I am an idiot, I will let those most qualified point you in the direction you need to go.

I wasn't calling you an idiot personally. I was referring to the manner in which you posted. As I specified, searching the term "battery" specifically in this thread returned no mention of what actual owners were seeing as far as battery life goes. There were posts about laptop USB ports potentially not being able to deliver sufficient current, recommendations for other chargers (yours among them) etc. but no specific mention of real world user battery life, and I don't tend to believe manufacturer ratings as they're quite often exaggerated especially when it comes to battery life in particular. That's why I specifically looked for real world user averages, which proved difficult to find, hence, I asked.

After looking specifically through YOUR posts, the one post where you mention your real world charge duration has no mention of the word "battery" in it anywhere, meaning it obviously doesn't show up in a search for posts with that word.


Max
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post #517 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

Pretty much explained in this post! http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post21665661

Thanks. I guess the problem was not restricted to just VIP glasses then.


Max
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post #518 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djbluemax1 View Post

Thanks. I guess the problem was not restricted to just VIP glasses then.


Max

What are you using to charge them?

Its strange...the 850ma charger wouldn't work with that one pair I have but charges with the lower current rated charger. Still doesn't hold the charge as long as my other glasses though. That one pair will never get to a pulsing led state and just never charge with the 850ma charger but charges with the 700ma charger and pulses slowly.

I suppose the voltage level is different too. At some point I plan to check the battery voltage on these after a charge. Does anybody know what resistor value and where?
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post #519 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

What are you using to charge them?

Its strange...the 850ma charger wouldn't work with that one pair I have but charges with the lower current rated charger. Still doesn't hold the charge as long as my other glasses though. That one pair will never get to a pulsing led state and just never charge with the 850ma charger but charges with the 700ma charger and pulses slowly.

I suppose the voltage level is different too. At some point I plan to check the battery voltage on these after a charge. Does anybody know what resistor value and where?

I usually plug the cable into either the front USB port on my Onkyo 5008 (if I have the system on) or to the USB port on the Sony NX810 (which stays on even if the TV is off) since I keep the glasses right there. Either of those gets the glasses from dead to the pulsing LED within a couple of hours.

I'll try my HTC charger (5v, 1A) and see how that works. If not, I may have to contact Monster or Bit Cauldron. Both pairs are Monster rebadged, one was purchased from Vanns, the other from Amazon, approximately 3 weeks apart in the Fall of last year.


Max
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post #520 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

Pretty much explained in this post! http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post21665661

Any foolproof way to know whether or not you're affected by this?

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post #521 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bd2003 View Post

Any foolproof way to know whether or not you're affected by this?

Check the voltage of the battery after they are charged I guess. You can access the battery in the right hand side paddle...opposite side from the power switch. A small jewellers screwdriver and one screw will gain you access.
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post #522 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djbluemax1 View Post

Thanks. That's the kind of info I was looking for.

I've really only read about VIP glasses having the incorrect resistors. Haven't really seen too much about Monster glasses specifically with that problem. It makes me wonder how widespread the problem might have been? Potentially just a small batch that went to VIP, or maybe a larger batch that was distributed to several resellers?



I wasn't calling you an idiot personally. I was referring to the manner in which you posted. As I specified, searching the term "battery" specifically in this thread returned no mention of what actual owners were seeing as far as battery life goes. There were posts about laptop USB ports potentially not being able to deliver sufficient current, recommendations for other chargers (yours among them) etc. but no specific mention of real world user battery life, and I don't tend to believe manufacturer ratings as they're quite often exaggerated especially when it comes to battery life in particular. That's why I specifically looked for real world user averages, which proved difficult to find, hence, I asked.

After looking specifically through YOUR posts, the one post where you mention your real world charge duration has no mention of the word "battery" in it anywhere, meaning it obviously doesn't show up in a search for posts with that word.


Max

Unfortunately Max at that time I didn't have the time to answer in depth, so I did a quick search in this group and most of my comments on that subject were listed. I was going to come back later and see if you turned up anything and work from there. Your follow up response caught me wrong at that moment as it had a sarcastic element to it so I ended up giving you a curt response myself.

In any event hopefully we can get past all of that and concentrate on whether the charge issue is source related, battery or defect in the charge controller circuitry in the glasses. 100% full charge should approximately be in the 3.75-3.8 range. If I remember correctly, 0%=2.72VDC but by then the glasses go into shutdown. Most of the stuff is over in the VIP3D Theater and Displayer forums.
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post #523 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 06:41 PM
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What is the latest firmware version? What version are most people using?
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post #524 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 10:09 PM
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I grabbed the latest update less than a week ago, and it was v1.05.004 at that time.
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post #525 of 1059 Old 03-02-2012, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtVideo View Post

Unfortunately Max at that time I didn't have the time to answer in depth, so I did a quick search in this group and most of my comments on that subject were listed. I was going to come back later and see if you turned up anything and work from there. Your follow up response caught me wrong at that moment as it had a sarcastic element to it so I ended up giving you a curt response myself.

In any event hopefully we can get past all of that and concentrate on whether the charge issue is source related, battery or defect in the charge controller circuitry in the glasses. 100% full charge should approximately be in the 3.75-3.8 range. If I remember correctly, 0%=2.72VDC but by then the glasses go into shutdown. Most of the stuff is over in the VIP3D Theater and Displayer forums.

Thanks for the detailed info. I'll check the battery after charging to see if it ever fully charges with mine.

It appears that the LED blink sequence is an unreliable indicator of battery life and I really have to wonder how difficult it would have been for Bit Cauldron to
a) use a 'clicky' type switch for the glasses (I really dislike the switch on these)
b) allow the switch to turn the glasses off the way all the other glasses do


Max
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post #526 of 1059 Old 03-03-2012, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djbluemax1 View Post

Thanks for the detailed info. I'll check the battery after charging to see if it ever fully charges with mine.

It appears that the LED blink sequence is an unreliable indicator of battery life and I really have to wonder how difficult it would have been for Bit Cauldron to
a) use a 'clicky' type switch for the glasses (I really dislike the switch on these)
b) allow the switch to turn the glasses off the way all the other glasses do


Max

Make sure the test leads you are using are the almost needle sharp type, it is a difficult connection to make, if you short that Li-Po battery you might need to have good eye protection. The RC airplane folks know how explosive they can be. The ribbon cable is delicate as well.

A good set of glasses after finishing their charge cycle should measure around 3.78-3.82vdc.
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post #527 of 1059 Old 03-03-2012, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djbluemax1 View Post

Thanks for the detailed info. I'll check the battery after charging to see if it ever fully charges with mine.

It appears that the LED blink sequence is an unreliable indicator of battery life and I really have to wonder how difficult it would have been for Bit Cauldron to
a) use a 'clicky' type switch for the glasses (I really dislike the switch on these)
b) allow the switch to turn the glasses off the way all the other glasses do

Max

I have a couple pair of these glasses, 1-MV and 1-Optoma. Both are operating fine, turning off as they should and charge lasting for multiple uses. The first pair of Optoma I got from Amazon were duds which failed to turn on for the second usage cycle after the initial first charge and use.

Glasses can be turned off via either:
1. No RF signal give 5 minutes of LED flashing, then they auto off.
2. Hold the power button down for some 20-30 seconds. Refer to the manual which states this will shutoff the glasses. Confirmed this works.

---

SgtVideo:
"Most of the time you can get by with a 500ma usb source but I was informed by one of the BC engineers if the SOC "state of charge" reaches a certain point the charge controller circuitry could demand up to 750ma. If your souce can't meet that demand then they will remain undercharged."

There are a lot of weaker USB ports/hubs out there and many that will not provide 750ma. AFAIK the "normal" USB port spec provided a maximum of 500ma per port. However there is also a "charger" specification that allows for up to 1.5A. (I believe you can see this type of power draw on IPads, etc). I dug up the following blurbs about the USB specs...

Quote:
The USB specification provides a 5 V (volts) supply on a single wire from which connected USB devices may draw power. The specification provides for no more than 5.25 V and no less than 4.75 V (5 V±5%) between the positive and negative bus power lines.[11] Initially, a device is only allowed to draw 100 mA. It may request more current from the upstream device in units of 2 mA up to a maximum of 500 mA.

Quote:
On-The-Go and Battery Charging Specification both add new powering modes to the USB specification. The latter specification allows USB devices to draw up to 1.5 A from hubs and hosts that follow the Battery Charging Specification.


So, although a "normal" USB port may provide normal power usage, it could be that these glasses charge better with ports that can provide the higher "Battery Charging" power limits.

I have not measured my 7 port USB 2.0 hub output, but the power adapter is rated at 2.6A, which is on the stronger side when comparing to many other hub supplies. I typically charge 2-4 glasses of various brands at the same time without problem. This hub was < $20 from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details and now showing a higher price. Many people rated this well with good success connecting a wide variety of power hungry devices. I only use this for charging USB devices and never for data.

Coolplazma's HT Den project. Early project info. Needs update with final results.
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post #528 of 1059 Old 03-03-2012, 02:43 PM
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I originally had two Monster brand glasses. I would charge them fully until the LED pulsated. They would only last about 5 hours or so before giving me the 6 blinking lights. I returned these glasses and got 4 pairs of the Optoma, which as I understand it is identical just the name. With these glasses I can go about 20 hours or so before 6 blinking lights. Seems to me the pair of Monster's I had originally did not hold a charge like they were supposed to.
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post #529 of 1059 Old 03-04-2012, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zkidz View Post

I grabbed the latest update less than a week ago, and it was v1.05.004 at that time.

Is there a way to restore the previous firmware version?
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post #530 of 1059 Old 03-04-2012, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captainmorgan View Post

Is there a way to restore the previous firmware version?

That was the version Monstervision transmitters shipped with in 2011. Most people downloaded it thinking they were getting an update when in reality you were really only getting the RF glasses Management Utility which allowed tuning adjustments via PC. If they flashed their transmitter with it then they were basically just reflashing. The firmware and Management Utility were packaged in the same download.

The v1.05.010 was written for VIP3D RF glasses and transmitter which are the same but added an easier method of changing Polarity. If you already have a copy of the v1.05.004 update & manager then yes you can flash back unless your transmitter hangs up during the update process and doesn't complete.

This is what can happen:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post21633688
#441

The version .010 firmware and instructions are located here and keep in mind this firmware doesn't come with Optoma and Monstervision's blessing. But it works unless you have a bad transmitter.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27776
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post #531 of 1059 Old 03-04-2012, 10:08 AM
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Actually the MV3D branded set I got had older firmware installed than 1.05.004. I didn't note which version, but the 1.05.004 was an upgrade.

It's really sloppy of all these AV vendors to not keep archives available for downgrade, but that just seems to be the way they do things these days: "Good luck if an update breaks your kit"
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post #532 of 1059 Old 03-04-2012, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zkidz View Post

Actually the MV3D branded set I got had older firmware installed than 1.05.004. I didn't note which version, but the 1.05.004 was an upgrade.

^^^ same here and flashing with 1.05.004 greatly improved the default settings to the point where it almost eliminated the need for adjusting them for both Epson and Sony projectors.

Coolplazma's HT Den project. Early project info. Needs update with final results.
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post #533 of 1059 Old 03-06-2012, 05:02 AM
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Hi,

After a search didn't give me the answers I am looking for I quickly flipped through every page here without success. I have a Sony VW90ES UK model. I would appreciate any info to help me decide if I should purchase some MonsterVision glasses.

I get quite a lot of crosstalk on Sky 3d sources and varying levels from Blu Ray ranging from annoyingly obvious to not annoying but still there. It seems worse at the bottom of the screen. I have just watched some content on my brother in laws new Panasonic 50" tv and I didn't see any crosstalk at all, and I was deliberately looking for it.

I tried xPand x103's after favourable reviews but for me they were worse than the Sonys.

1. Has anyone here used the Monsters with the VW90 if so what is your opinion?

2. Do filters have to be fitted, if so do the glasses come with them or do you have to fit Sonys own?

3. I understand that adjusting the duty cycle will reduce crosstalk but at what expense to brightness. Can I get less crosstalk with better brightness than the Sony glasses? (I don't want to sacrifice brightness just to get less crosstalk, if that's the case I will stick with the Sonys)

4. Will I need any extra adapters to use the Monster glasses and the Sonys together, how does the Monster transmitter connect?

5. I have the original BR100 glasses. We find these quite uncomfortable, especially the weight on your nose. What is the comfort like between the Monsters, BR100's and BR 250's ?

6. Will the Monsters work ok with UK frequencies?


Thanks for any advice

Graham
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post #534 of 1059 Old 03-06-2012, 10:00 AM
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3. It depends on the exact cause of your ghosting and the quality of the Sony factory glasses. If for some reason the Sony factory glasses are out of phase, definitely. If the Sony glasses have high transient or intrinsic leakage, yes. If the ghosting with the Sony glasses is mostly due to failure to chop a fading tail-end on the signal, and that tail end bleeds into the next frame, then no, you have to sacrifice some brightness.

The other thing to watch out for is anti-ghosting filters in the firmware. On my Samsung set, there is no way to turn them off, so you get anti-ghosts (black shadows where you would normally expect a white ghost) if you use glasses with less leakage and faster transients. This is still better than not reducing the ghosting at all, mind you.

4. As long as the Monsters support that IR protocol, you can run with the IR dongle and it does not need to be mounted directly against the emitter leds, just close by, so it does not get in the way of the IR signal for other glasses. Note only the Monster branded kits come with the IR dongle.

You'll only know if you try, basically.
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post #535 of 1059 Old 03-06-2012, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham N View Post

Hi,

After a search didn't give me the answers I am looking for I quickly flipped through every page here without success. I have a Sony VW90ES UK model. I would appreciate any info to help me decide if I should purchase some MonsterVision glasses.

I get quite a lot of crosstalk on Sky 3d sources and varying levels from Blu Ray ranging from annoyingly obvious to not annoying but still there. It seems worse at the bottom of the screen. I have just watched some content on my brother in laws new Panasonic 50" tv and I didn't see any crosstalk at all, and I was deliberately looking for it.

I tried xPand x103's after favourable reviews but for me they were worse than the Sonys.

1. Has anyone here used the Monsters with the VW90 if so what is your opinion?

2. Do filters have to be fitted, if so do the glasses come with them or do you have to fit Sonys own?

3. I understand that adjusting the duty cycle will reduce crosstalk but at what expense to brightness. Can I get less crosstalk with better brightness than the Sony glasses? (I don't want to sacrifice brightness just to get less crosstalk, if that's the case I will stick with the Sonys)

4. Will I need any extra adapters to use the Monster glasses and the Sonys together, how does the Monster transmitter connect?

5. I have the original BR100 glasses. We find these quite uncomfortable, especially the weight on your nose. What is the comfort like between the Monsters, BR100's and BR 250's ?

6. Will the Monsters work ok with UK frequencies?


Thanks for any advice

Graham

I have the Sony HW30 instead of the VW90, but the Monsters work the same regardless. The 90 is known to ghost more than the newer pj models, so it is not surprising that you are seeing ghosting.

As you know, the MonsterVision glasses (made by Bit Cauldron, are also branded as Optoma and 3D-VIP) have good flexibility in adjustments. However, if the pj is performing poorly there is only so much a set of glasses can do to eliminate artifacts. Likely with your pj you will be closing down the duty cycle to attempt cutting off the image overlap.

The MonsterVision Kit includes one pair of glasses and an IR capture dongle plus the RF emitter. The IR dongle hangs in front of your existing IR emitter and sends that sync signal to the MV RF device. With this setup you can use both your IR and RF glasses at the same time.

All the Bit Cauldron RF re-branded glasses are interchangable, which opens up the options for purchasing additional glasses (ie: Optoma sell for less than MV).

MV is the only vendor that provides the IR capture dongle. Apparently MV does not sell their kit in Europe, so your purchase options may be limited. I suggest calling AVS sales, as some people have reported they can help ship this kit from the US.

As far as these working in the UK, there are many Euro users posting in the various Sony pj threads that are using these glasses. Some of the people create a direct connect cable and eliminate the IR capture altogether. If you go that route, you don't need the MV Kit and can just purchase a package from any vendor that includes just the RF emitter.

Oh, the Bit Cauldron RF glasses do not have any extra filters to add. AFAIK, filters are only needed for using the BR series glasses with the Sony projectors. In fact, if those are the only glasses you have, you may want to try a pair of Sony's newer IR glasses listed with any of the HWAES models, or the Playstation 3 3D IR glasses which also work great.

Coolplazma's HT Den project. Early project info. Needs update with final results.
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post #536 of 1059 Old 03-06-2012, 02:20 PM
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Thanks for both replies. I can get the MV glasses from Amazon for £98 included taxes and delivery and the Sony BR250 glasses here for £44. You have both given me something to think about and I will do so before deciding what to do.

Thanks again,

Graham
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post #537 of 1059 Old 03-08-2012, 04:53 AM
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Has anyone replaced the battery on-board? I just bought a new pair online from Amazon and only one of them power on. The other being charged for 2 days straight doesn't even flash or activate.

I can't return these as it was a hassle having to ship them to Buffalo since I live in Ontario, Canada and Monster hasn't responded to my e-mail in over 4 days now.

I'd rather just crack them open and replace whatever battery is inside if its possible.
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post #538 of 1059 Old 03-08-2012, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZoomBoy View Post

Has anyone replaced the battery on-board? I just bought a new pair online from Amazon and only one of them power on. The other being charged for 2 days straight doesn't even flash or activate.

I can't return these as it was a hassle having to ship them to Buffalo since I live in Ontario, Canada and Monster hasn't responded to my e-mail in over 4 days now.

I'd rather just crack them open and replace whatever battery is inside if its possible.

It may not be the battery actually. I've had 2 Monsters and 4 Optomas (which are identical to the Monsters just OEMed/branded differently). One of my Optoma pairs did not turn on and their support said it could just be an issue with the circuitry. They sent me an advance replacement within a day and I returned the other one at no charge. Maybe try giving Monster a call, although from what I remember it can be a bit tricky getting to the right department.
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post #539 of 1059 Old 03-09-2012, 07:23 AM
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I find manufacturers always figure out a way to slip away from refunding/repairing units. I just spent 30 mins on the phone with Monster and was one step away from having my defective pair RMA'd until they noticed that the vendor I purchased the glasses from wasn't an authorized dealer, even though they were purchased via Amazon.com

So obviously they basically told me to hit the road. What does it matter who sells these units, it is Monster's product - does it matter if I bought them from Wal-Mart of Mom & Pop Co? Lame.. so now I have to deal with this Amazon dealer and pray they can fix my issue or I'm out $100+.
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post #540 of 1059 Old 03-09-2012, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZoomBoy View Post

Has anyone replaced the battery on-board? I just bought a new pair online from Amazon and only one of them power on. The other being charged for 2 days straight doesn't even flash or activate.

I can't return these as it was a hassle having to ship them to Buffalo since I live in Ontario, Canada and Monster hasn't responded to my e-mail in over 4 days now.

I'd rather just crack them open and replace whatever battery is inside if its possible.

I was able to source this battery last but not this year. Here is the battery # for the RF glasses:

Battery# 402040P 3.7v, Lithium Polymer.
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