Official Monster Vision Max 3D Thread - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 1065 Old 06-06-2011, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post
Read something in Widescreen Review that they (bit Cauldron) are working on a fix for JVC LCOS projectors so that the MAX 3D glasses polarization doesn't block as much light using the new JVC 3D projectors. Has anybody heard any news if they have fixed it? The article said they were looking to see if it could be fixed with a firmware change.
that would be interested to hear about. I use them on my RS50 to compare to the Xpand 103's and I prefer the tint color on the 3D vision glasses although they are very fragile compared to the Xpand's imo.

My 2.8HP screen retains no polarization so this won't affect me, but hopefully helps others get away from the expensive JVC branded glasses.


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post #92 of 1065 Old 06-06-2011, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

Read something in Widescreen Review that they (bit Cauldron) are working on a fix for JVC LCOS projectors so that the MAX 3D glasses polarization doesn't block as much light using the new JVC 3D projectors. Has anybody heard any news if they have fixed it? The article said they were looking to see if it could be fixed with a firmware change.

Bit Cauldron responded to my email and told me to adjust the duty cycle for a brighter image. So either they responded with a standard response for everyone with brightness issues because the person on the other end has no clue or they really are not working on it or both.

Maybe they just told Widescreen Review what they wanted to hear.
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post #93 of 1065 Old 06-08-2011, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Mikenificent1 View Post

Has anyone been able to change the polarity of the glasses? I tried following the manual's directions, but the LED's didn't light up the way they say it is suppose to.

hey , just wondering if you were able to get your emitter to change your polarity, every time i try ,i either get the red lights or the orange lights , i am pushing straight down like the instructions says ,but to no avail, the killer part is with my glasses upside down the 3d is in your face , so i know my polarity needs to be switched.
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post #94 of 1065 Old 06-08-2011, 05:46 PM
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From what I can understand, you can use regular ir glasses at the same time as using the if glasses since both signals are available. Does the ir emitter in the Monster kit work with many other glasses? I heard it worked with the Samsungs, but what about something less expensive (my wife hates the idea of one of our grandkids breaking a $130 pair of glasses). I was thinking of adding a few pair of the $40-50 options.

Another option is to get the 3DTV G2 and use it as the emitter with the Monsters. Possible?

I'll be using a Mits 73738/Sony BDP 570
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post #95 of 1065 Old 06-08-2011, 06:17 PM
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I guess I can use any emitter, so the smartest thing to do is get one compatible with the "guest" glasses I plan to buy.
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post #96 of 1065 Old 06-09-2011, 05:14 AM
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I just read through the thread and noticed someone looking for a cheap IR emitter.

My local Sears and Best Buy has the Sony IR emitter on sale for $49. I'm not sure about it's compatibility but it's a cheap IR emitter that I've seen around.

-Brian
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post #97 of 1065 Old 06-09-2011, 07:53 AM
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Anyone know where to stick the IR end on a VT30?
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post #98 of 1065 Old 06-15-2011, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lee-1 View Post

hey , just wondering if you were able to get your emitter to change your polarity, every time i try ,i either get the red lights or the orange lights , i am pushing straight down like the instructions says ,but to no avail, the killer part is with my glasses upside down the 3d is in your face , so i know my polarity needs to be switched.

I have the JVC X3 projector and turned the glasses upside down and the picture had tons more depth so my polarity was not correct. I was having the same issue as you with only getting the red and orange lights until I finally was able to to see the 2 red lights for standard and 3 red lights for reverse polarity. I found that lightly pressing straight down and releasing quickly I was able to get the polarity switched. I now have the transmitter switched to the three red lights and everything is so much better.
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post #99 of 1065 Old 06-17-2011, 05:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lee-1 View Post

hey , just wondering if you were able to get your emitter to change your polarity, every time i try ,i either get the red lights or the orange lights , i am pushing straight down like the instructions says ,but to no avail, the killer part is with my glasses upside down the 3d is in your face , so i know my polarity needs to be switched.

Try this alternate method for polarity change:

This technique allows you to change polarity using "Duty Cycle".

You can change the polarity via the Dongle on the transmitter. When you are in the Duty Cycle (UP & DOWN red lights)... imagine that the five lights are split in two equal halves of L and R. When you go left of the 2.5 settings with the RED lights, you are now configuring a different polarity than if you are extending the red lights to the right beyond the middle point.

Remember you are working with RED lights that change with UP and DOWN movement on the dongle!




L C R

Depending on where you find your best picture setting, you can always find the same setting either to the left of the centre or the right of the centre (c) with the correct polarity. This is the easist and the fastest way to change the polarity without having to go through the utility or without having to find the Midas touch on the dongle to get the centre push right.
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post #100 of 1065 Old 06-18-2011, 04:13 AM
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Hi,

I got the RF Glasses from VIP which are the same glasses as the Monster Vision Max 3D. (Both are branded Bit Cauldrin glasses.)

The above post about changing the polarity made zero sense to me the first 8 times I read it but once you "get" it... it's the way to go. It helped me understand the manual adjustments.

-Brian
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post #101 of 1065 Old 06-18-2011, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtVideo View Post

Try this alternate method for polarity change:

This technique allows you to change polarity using "Duty Cycle".

You can change the polarity via the Dongle on the transmitter. When you are in the Duty Cycle (UP & DOWN red lights)... imagine that the five lights are split in two equal halves of L and R. When you go left of the 2.5 settings with the RED lights, you are now configuring a different polarity than if you are extending the red lights to the right beyond the middle point.

Remember you are working with RED lights that change with UP and DOWN movement on the dongle!



L C R

Depending on where you find your best picture setting, you can always find the same setting either to the left of the centre or the right of the centre (c) with the correct polarity. This is the easist and the fastest way to change the polarity without having to go through the utility or without having to find the “Midas touch” on the dongle to get the centre push right.

The delay setting will change polarity not the duty cycle. Duty cycle reduces the amout of time the shutters stay open.
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post #102 of 1065 Old 06-19-2011, 03:41 AM
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I'm still learning but the delay seems to be the most important adjustment in my setup. I can reduce the duty cycle a bit and then tune out the ghosting using the delay.

If the resulting delay only flips in polarity then I think I'm going to learn how to adjust the polarity so I don't have to tune each time.

(I have noticed the polarity does need to be changed from one 3D Blu to another.)
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post #103 of 1065 Old 06-19-2011, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

The delay setting will change polarity not the duty cycle. Duty cycle reduces the amout of time the shutters stay open.

I'm just posting the instructions sent from VIP. If that's wrong we will let them know.

I haven't seen a polarity problem with any of the content I've viewed as yet.
I'm wondering if some of the video settings folks use in their AVRs are somehow reversing polarity. Or, are there settings in projectors that can invert signals that can be adjusted.

I tried to force a polarity change using the press down dongle movement, but I guess you have to be a surgeon to find the spot that works.
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post #104 of 1065 Old 06-19-2011, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtVideo View Post

I tried to force a polarity change using the press down dongle movement, but I guess you have to be a surgeon to find the spot that works.

Its hard to get it to work plus you end up screwing up delay and duty cycle in the process.

The PC utility is the best way to adjust the glasses.

I haven't seen many polarity shifts. I did once with my PS3. Stop and restart worked.
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post #105 of 1065 Old 06-19-2011, 10:01 AM
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PC utility sounds nice.

Will try to find that.

-Brian
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post #106 of 1065 Old 06-19-2011, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Hampton View Post

PC utility sounds nice.

Will try to find that.

-Brian

Not home right now but can send it to you tonight. VIP can send it too. Email Jonathan.
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post #107 of 1065 Old 06-20-2011, 08:43 PM
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Do you guys know if there is a way to use the 3D Vision glasses with the Acer 5360 3D DLP? I use an HTPC with PDVD10 and TMT5 for 3D on the Acer (using the Nvidia IR/Glasses set up) and also the JVC RS50 using the same software, but have the RF transmitter hooked up to the 3 Pin vesa port on the JVC.

It would be nice to use the glasses with the HTPC since the Monster vision setup has a USB port on the RF tranmitter. Perhaps some drivers that would eliminate the Nvidia setup.

Ronomy - if you could post the USB software, please let us know. I'd rather adjust the settings from the PC. thanks!


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post #108 of 1065 Old 06-21-2011, 07:32 AM
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AFAIK the Nvidia emitter will only work if connected to a PC and it is then enabled by the Nvidia software.
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post #109 of 1065 Old 06-21-2011, 09:13 AM
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Do you guys know if there is a way to use the 3D Vision glasses with the Acer 5360 3D DLP? I use an HTPC with PDVD10 and TMT5 for 3D on the Acer (using the Nvidia IR/Glasses set up) and also the JVC RS50 using the same software, but have the RF transmitter hooked up to the 3 Pin vesa port on the JVC.

It would be nice to use the glasses with the HTPC since the Monster vision setup has a USB port on the RF tranmitter. Perhaps some drivers that would eliminate the Nvidia setup.

Ronomy - if you could post the USB software, please let us know. I'd rather adjust the settings from the PC. thanks!

The only problem with the PC software was for me it wouldn't tell me my current settings from using the dongle. I could make adjustments but you couldn't see what they look like in real time because you have to unplug the transmitter and put it back into the system every time.

When I plugged it in and ran the utility it gave me the firmware version and but indicated all my settings were set at zero. I had 1.5 LEDS of delay and 2.5 LEDS for duty cycle but it could not extract those settings.

So basically from what I've seen you can only use the sliders to set the adjustments but you have to already know what those numbers are before saving them to the device.

The lense phase shift button did help one user get his stubborn phase shift problem resolved.

The other function in the software gives us firmware updating whenever that is ever made available.

Other than that you're better off using the dongle. There is no method of saving multiple settings as a file and reloading them into the transmitter.

If the audience has discovered that please let me know because I sure don't see it.
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post #110 of 1065 Old 06-21-2011, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtVideo View Post

The only problem with the PC software was for me it wouldn't tell me my current settings from using the dongle. I could make adjustments but you couldn't see what they look like in real time because you have to unplug the transmitter and put it back into the system every time.

When I plugged it in and ran the utility it gave me the firmware version and but indicated all my settings were set at zero. I had 1.5 LEDS of delay and 2.5 LEDS for duty cycle but it could not extract those settings.

So basically from what I've seen you can only use the sliders to set the adjustments but you have to already know what those numbers are before saving them to the device.

The lense phase shift button did help one user get his stubborn phase shift problem resolved.

The other function in the software gives us firmware updating whenever that is ever made available.

Other than that you're better off using the dongle. There is no method of saving multiple settings as a file and reloading them into the transmitter.

If the audience has discovered that please let me know because I sure don't see it.

With my PC I get feed back from the emitter which tells me what the settings are. If I want to update the screen to see what they are set to on the emitter I close the PC utility and reload it. Reads the saved settings every time.

I found it odd that when you run a reset of the emitter using the joystick and check the settings using the utility it says 105% duty cycle. However that seems to work the best with a DLP projector. If I try lowering it to 100% I see some color shifting when i tilt my head from the screen. If I lower it even more like 95% the colors begin to screw up. Skin tone turns orange in some scenes. The default delay and duty cycle are perfect setting for a DLP projector. I suppose lowering duty cycle you start reducing one of the colors from the color wheel which is in sync with the frame rate. Thus the colors start to shift because we are blocking part of one color. So don't change duty cycle with a DLP projector. Leave it at 105%.

I have not had to touch delay either. Factory reset and all is perfect. Although I did have to change polarity.

Ron
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post #111 of 1065 Old 06-21-2011, 10:31 AM
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What Romony saws from what I have seen is true. Phase is the only issue with DLP 120 Hz. The IR glasses except for line of sight issues worked fine with the Acer with only polarity having to be changed.
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post #112 of 1065 Old 06-22-2011, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

With my PC I get feed back from the emitter which tells me what the settings are. If I want to update the screen to see what they are set to on the emitter I close the PC utility and reload it. Reads the saved settings every time.

I found it odd that when you run a reset of the emitter using the joystick and check the settings using the utility it says 105% duty cycle. However that seems to work the best with a DLP projector. If I try lowering it to 100% I see some color shifting when i tilt my head from the screen. If I lower it even more like 95% the colors begin to screw up. Skin tone turns orange in some scenes. The default delay and duty cycle are perfect setting for a DLP projector. I suppose lowering duty cycle you start reducing one of the colors from the color wheel which is in sync with the frame rate. Thus the colors start to shift because we are blocking part of one color. So don't change duty cycle with a DLP projector. Leave it at 105%.

I have not had to touch delay either. Factory reset and all is perfect. Although I did have to change polarity.

Ron

"I found it odd that when you run a reset of the emitter using the joystick and check the settings using the utility it says 105% duty cycle. "

No, I don't remember indicating that. If for example I'm satisfied using the dongle with 1.5LED Delay and 2.5LED Duty Cycle. When I remove the transmitter and read the stored settings with the Utility, it reports that both my settings are "zero", which I know is incorrect.

Unfortunately I am shipping my transmitter back to VIP for testing, as I believe it has developed frequency shift for lack of a better term.

When trying to watch Resident Evil, made acceptable adjustments, after watching about 3 minutes all facial tones and background began color shifting.
The whole movie turned into a 3D anaglyph comic book appearance.

Went back and retuned everything to normal, sat down within minutes drifting back to garbage again. Remove glasses but the video display has none of this occurring only when wearing glasses.

So I decided no more adjustments and just watch to see what would happen long term. The video image would wander back in forth from proper settting to color distortion almost like clockwork. Gave up when one of the new glasses died in 55 minutes from fresh charge. Gads!! to put it kindly.

The transmitter operates in a consumer band somewhere in the 2.2-2.5ghz range. Garage door openers, cordless phones, security systems are also in that spectrum as well. But I don't believe that such interference was occurring to cause the above.

If the glasses and transmitter cannot maintain their sync then the adjustments become meaningless. To my knowledge I'm the only one that's had this type of transmitter problem. Although I have now received 3 defective glasses out of four.

It is odd when you read the Monstervision glasses threads you don't see anything about battery charging issues or status blinks and such. Only in our rebranded glasses made by the same entity.
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post #113 of 1065 Old 06-22-2011, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtVideo View Post

"I found it odd that when you run a reset of the emitter using the joystick and check the settings using the utility it says 105% duty cycle. "

No, I don't remember indicating that. If for example I'm satisfied using the dongle with 1.5LED Delay and 2.5LED Duty Cycle. When I remove the transmitter and read the stored settings with the Utility, it reports that both my settings are "zero", which I know is incorrect.

Unfortunately I am shipping my transmitter back to VIP for testing, as I believe it has developed frequency shift for lack of a better term.

When trying to watch Resident Evil, made acceptable adjustments, after watching about 3 minutes all facial tones and background began color shifting.
The whole movie turned into a 3D anaglyph comic book appearance.

Went back and retuned everything to normal, sat down within minutes drifting back to garbage again. Remove glasses but the video display has none of this occurring only when wearing glasses.

So I decided no more adjustments and just watch to see what would happen long term. The video image would wander back in forth from proper settting to color distortion almost like clockwork. Gave up when one of the new glasses died in 55 minutes from fresh charge. Gads!! to put it kindly.

The transmitter operates in a consumer band somewhere in the 2.2-2.5ghz range. Garage door openers, cordless phones, security systems are also in that spectrum as well. But I don't believe that such interference was occurring to cause the above.

If the glasses and transmitter cannot maintain their sync then the adjustments become meaningless. To my knowledge I'm the only one that's had this type of transmitter problem. Although I have now received 3 defective glasses out of four.

It is odd when you read the Monstervision glasses threads you don't see anything about battery charging issues or status blinks and such. Only in our rebranded glasses made by the same entity.

I had some wierd things happen with my 60Hz displays but with my DLP 3D ready its perfect. No problems with the emitter or glasses I have.

With a DLP duty cycle needs to be 100%-105% like the factory default or else you get wierd color shifting.

I also had wierd color shifting with my Sony XBR6 32 inch TV. My RS1 projector didn't have color issues but drifted in and out of sync with the glasses.

I questioned the emitter and glasses myself until I got the 3D ready DLP projector. Now it is rock solid!

I think you might have a problem with your emitter though. You should be able to see what the emitter is set to when you load the utility software on the PC.

I did get one emtter early on that was dead out of the box. Would not turn on.

Ron
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post #114 of 1065 Old 06-22-2011, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
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Went back and retuned everything to normal, sat down within minutes drifting back to garbage again. Remove glasses but the video display has none of this occurring only when wearing glasses.

So I decided no more adjustments and just watch to see what would happen long term. The video image would wander back in forth from proper settting to color distortion almost like clockwork. Gave up when one of the new glasses died in 55 minutes from fresh charge. Gads!! to put it kindly.

The transmitter operates in a consumer band somewhere in the 2.2-2.5ghz range. Garage door openers, cordless phones, security systems are also in that spectrum as well. But I don't believe that such interference was occurring to cause the above.

If the glasses and transmitter cannot maintain their sync then the adjustments become meaningless. To my knowledge I'm the only one that's had this type of transmitter problem. Although I have now received 3 defective glasses out of four.

It is odd when you read the Monstervision glasses threads you don't see anything about battery charging issues or status blinks and such. Only in our rebranded glasses made by the same entity.

Have you paired the glasses to the transmitter? If not, there could be another ZigBee device (even another transmitter) somewhere nearby that could be conflicting with the transmitter.
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post #115 of 1065 Old 06-22-2011, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtVideo View Post

It is odd when you read the Monstervision glasses threads you don't see anything about battery charging issues or status blinks and such. Only in our rebranded glasses made by the same entity.

I doubt this is the case, but I wonder if the Monster-branded items are cherry-picked or receive more stringent QC before shipping, either at BitCauldron or at Monster.

HokeySmoke made a good point about glasses pairing. Perhaps it'll help.

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post #116 of 1065 Old 06-22-2011, 11:25 AM
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I am very glad I don't have the battery problems with my BC glasses (branded VIP)
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post #117 of 1065 Old 06-22-2011, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
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Have you paired the glasses to the transmitter? If not, there could be another ZigBee device (even another transmitter) somewhere nearby that could be conflicting with the transmitter.

+1

This capability is outline in the manual, but not advertised loudly, & hasn't been needed by users in this forum yet. Certainly worth a try.
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post #118 of 1065 Old 06-22-2011, 12:30 PM
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+1

This capability is outline in the manual, but not advertised loudly, & hasn't been needed by users in this forum yet. Certainly worth a try.

I can certainly retry it again.

They default to the original transmitter unless a new transmitter is added then repairing is necessary.
They can operate in unpaired mode when visiting another users home.

My older functional glasses have been paired all along and they exhibit the same random color distortions.

But alas, just remembered my transmitter is out of town to VIP and when the replacement comes repairing will be required.
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post #119 of 1065 Old 07-18-2011, 09:52 PM
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After performing a firmware update on the transmitter, it is stuck with only the center red light on. When I plug it back into the vesa port on my MITS 60738, noting happens...no lights, even when the TV is put into 3D mode. I tried the procedure for returning the transmitter to factory defaults but still no lights. I plugged the transmitter back into the PC but WinXP kept giving the message that the USB device not recognized. I plugged the transmitter in again, this time with the toggle pushed down and to the left. The transmitter responded by displaying a single red light in the center. I tried the update procedure again but got a failure message. I tried again with the button held down and to the left and the message said the update was successful, but I'm still back to square one with the transmitter displaying only a single red light. Plugged into the TV it displays no light until I press the toggle button. Then it displays that single red light only and the 3D does not work.
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I apologize for over describing the situation. If I understood the situation better, perhaps I could have described the problem in a simpler, more concise manner.
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Can anyone help me? Please.
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post #120 of 1065 Old 07-20-2011, 11:47 AM
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Can you reverse the sync on these glasses so that they can be used at the same time as DLP link glasses? Regular IR glasses tend to use the reversed sync from DLP. I figured perhaps the Monster RF adapter has a switch to reverse the sync. Samsung 67A750 DLP.

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