Originally Posted by lovingdvd
Well guys its been a frustrating morning trying to tune work with the fine tuning.
First I used the laptop sliders blindly just to try it (because I cannot adjust in real-time as noted in post above). And of course this made a mess of the picture.
So then I went into the utility to try and reset them back to factory defaults, but there is no such option. I don't know if sliders all the way down are even the defaults! But at any rate, the lowest the sliders will go are something like 20 and 10, whereas before I changed them there were no values in those fields at all (and couldn't get it back to that state).
OK so next I decided to just use the instructions in the manual to reset the IR receiver/transmitter back to the factory settings. I am pretty darn sure I am following the instructions properly (having tried it dozens of times!) but it doesn't appear to be resetting.
The manual states this:
This however doesn't work as described. When I perform step 1, after about 7 seconds all lights turn off. Then as I continue to hold indefinitely, nothing happens. All lights do not turn green as it says, and no leds flash really fast.
I'd really like to reset back to the factory to clear the tuning parameters because the manual does state that resetting to factory resets those - and that's what I'm after.
OK so next I decide I will try to tune it using using the joystick. The directions say to "Press & Hold the joystick until the first 2 LEDs illuminate GREEN.". But once again, same thing - after I hold the joystick left all lights turn off and that's it. I then noticed if I press the joystick left again and hold it, the lights start scrolling up. If I stop at the second light it then seems to be in the tuning mode. However once in there, I can't figure out how to get to the default settings.
Great product, but either the documentation is wrong and in need of correction, or I am just doing something really dumb. Frustrating either way.
Personally I don't bother using a laptop to adjust the tuning, it is just faster and more convenient for me using the jstick.
As far as doing a default reset to clear tuning settings it doesn't really matter, any tuning adjustment overwrites the previous. That's why when folks have multiple displays they have to retune because their old settings were overwritten each time.
Another thing we need to keep in mind that "intermittent" ghosting is not necessarily a fault of the glasses or tuning. Some 3D content has flaws that are already documented by other viewers. This has been noted in such movies as Tron3D. So don't let 3D content make you think you equipment is at fault. Occasionally the frame-lock may momentarily break sync in the video display or shutter glasses and a brief moment of ghosting may occur.
As long as the picture normalizes in short order it doesn't matter at this stage as there are still some bugs for this industry to work out.
A few transmitters can have a glitch in their firmware and sometimes refreshing the firmware clears up issues such as sliders not functioning.
Using the updated firmware that was developed for VIP3D gives a better method of polarity adjustment than what is demonstrated in the Monster manual. Most people could not make the jstick position itself to go into that mode properly.
The updated firmware is compatible with the Monstervision glasses, of course updating firmware comes with it's risk if done improperly. I do not know if Monster would honor a transmitter failure if one messed it up. Personally, since Bit Cauldron developed it I don't see why they wouldn't but you never know.
This firmware update is posted on the Curt Palme VIP3D forum site and my instructions for it's use are there as well.http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27776
Back to your attempts to enter tuning mode:
1. Assuming the transmitter is in normal operation. Press and hold jstick UP until the 2nd LED appears and quickly release.
2. Now when you press the jstick UP/DOWN the RED LEDS will increase/decrease this is Delay Tuning. It has the greatest effect for minimizing ghosting.
3. When you press the jstick LEFT/RIGHT the AMBER LEDS will increase/decrease, this is Duty Cycle and has the greatest effect on brightness levels through the RF glasses. Balancing back and forth between the two adjustments provides the optimum to reduce ghosting and brightness levels that provide the best picture. For me it only takes a couple minutes and once it's done for THAT display you shouldn't need to later.
4. After about a 2 minute interval of none adjustment then the settings are saved and overwrite the previous settings. You may briefly see a glitch as the glasses resync after the save function completes.
Anyway, try the previous before doing any firmware updating and see if it makes better sense as the manual has it's weaknesses.
I expect changes in the next group of RF glasses but we are all using generation Uno for now.
As a second thought in regards to using the VIP3D update, if your transmitter is unresponsive to the RF glasses utility, then you should work that out with Monstervision support. Using a rebranded firmware may not come with Monsters blessing and perhaps they should have Bit Cauldron provide a version of that update to them. Even though I Beta tested the firmware change for VIP3D and Bit Cauldron I don't want to get in between the two manufacturers if a support issue develops by using it for Monster branded glasses.