Official Monster Vision Max 3D Thread - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 1059 Old 09-23-2011, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by wardhealer View Post

The manual is terrible. It must have been written, at best, by someone who never bothered to use the glasses or, at worst, by a complete idiot.
The VIP glasses are the same as the MonsterVision glasses. The VIP website has downloads of the software, installation and user manuals. They are much better than the MonsterVision manual. The VIP website is a bit funky and the download links are not normal links. You can't simply download the pdf files. You can only open them in the browser then save them to your HDD. I've never seen that type of setup before.

There is something wrong with your setup as Adobe Acrobat opens the VIP files fine, don't have to view them through the browser.

Try opening the browser, goto Tools/InternetOptions/Programs/Manage Addons and disable Adobe link. That should allow Acrobat to open the file.
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post #182 of 1059 Old 09-23-2011, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by wardhealer View Post

where can download the BC5100 users manual?

http://www.monstercable.com/productd...?pin=5938#null

Open the manuals tab and download the manual or any firmware updates.

Looks like they redid the manual and no longer use the BC5100 version.

Monstervision, Optoma and VIP3D are all rebranded Bit Cauldron 5000 series RF shutter glasses.

http://www.bitcauldron.com/index.php...d=98&Itemid=66
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post #183 of 1059 Old 09-24-2011, 03:11 PM
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Hi all - thanks for the great thread. With all this info I went out and got the Monstervision glasses. I have a few questions please:

1) I am very confused about how the charging light works... I understand how to read the blinks on power up to determine the current charge, but not sure how the lights are supposed to work during charging.

When I first got the glasses I pushed the power button and nothing happened at all. No lights. I figured the batter way dead, which it was. Same thing with a second pair I bought.

Anyway, I put in the USB to charge it and then it came back and powered on.

But here's my main question - how can I tell when the glasses are FULLY CHARGED and I can take them off the usb charging?

While I am charging the LED is out. Then after a while I saw it blinking slowly and steadily. Then it stops doing that (apparently after 5 min or so) and then the light it out again. Does the light come on solid or something when it is done charging?

2) Am I right to assume I can use the Optoma BG-3DRF glasses with the Monstervision RF transmitter? The Optoma glasses are MUCH cheaper but I can't find the Optoma BG-3DRFSYSTEM base station any where.

3) Does anyone have some tips on what type of material, scenes, patterns etc can be best used to tune settings of the glasses? Is there a certain technique or things to look for in determining what settings to use? And do the settings apply to all glasses or you have to do it for each pair? They are working great with my Samsung C80000 but if I can tune them that's even better.

4) Can the tuning be done using the joystick or must it be done with the PC software?

5) My transmitter came with firmware version 1.05.004 installed. After I updated it, the firmware still said it was that version. Is this the latest version? Even though I just got the glasses today I would be a bit surprised if it already had the latest on it.

6) Is there a way to force a pair of glasses to update the firmware by communicating with the transmitter to redownload it? With my first pair I specifically say the rapidly blinking lights while it updated itself. But on my second pair I didn't see this - so want to make sure it has the latest.

7) How do you turn the glasses OFF? I know where the power button is, but whether I push it and let go, or push and old - either way they stay on. Scenario: 2 people watching 3D, 1 person leaves the room - if they don't turn the glasses off they will stay in sync and drain the battery. So certainly there should be a way to turn them off?

8) How many charges do you think the battery is good for? I know each charge lasts 40+ hours so that's good. But I figure eventually (perhaps years) the battery will hold less and less of a charge. Does anyone know if the battery is replaceable at that point?

Thanks!
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post #184 of 1059 Old 09-24-2011, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Hampton View Post

Exchange them. Defective stuff isn't worth having.

I was hoping for something a little more informative. How can we tell if we have a bad unit? I've had them for about 6 months, but used them very infrequently, but I suspect they don't hold charge as well as they should. This is probably outside the return window for the retailer (Vanns), so do I need to get an RMA from Monster? Is there a way to test how long they keep a charge without wearing them until they wear out? I've kept up with this thread since it started, and don't recall this issue coming up before, and then it's just casually mentioned like it's common knowledge. Is there more info on it somewhere? Thanks for any guidance.
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post #185 of 1059 Old 09-24-2011, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Hi all - thanks for the great thread. With all this info I went out and got the Monstervision glasses. I have a few questions please:

1) I am very confused about how the charging light works... I understand how to read the blinks on power up to determine the current charge, but not sure how the lights are supposed to work during charging.

When I first got the glasses I pushed the power button and nothing happened at all. No lights. I figured the batter way dead, which it was. Same thing with a second pair I bought.

Anyway, I put in the USB to charge it and then it came back and powered on.

But here's my main question - how can I tell when the glasses are FULLY CHARGED and I can take them off the usb charging?

While I am charging the LED is out. Then after a while I saw it blinking slowly and steadily. Then it stops doing that (apparently after 5 min or so) and then the light it out again. Does the light come on solid or something when it is done charging?

Unplug the glasses from the charging cable and power them on. TWO LONG BLINKS on power on means the battery is 50% or more charged.

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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

2) Am I right to assume I can use the Optoma BG-3DRF glasses with the Monstervision RF transmitter? The Optoma glasses are MUCH cheaper but I can't find the Optoma BG-3DRFSYSTEM base station any where.

The Optoma and the Monster RF glasses are both rebranded Bit Cauldron glasses. You should be able to use them interchangeably.

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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

3) Does anyone have some tips on what type of material, scenes, patterns etc can be best used to tune settings of the glasses? Is there a certain technique or things to look for in determining what settings to use? And do the settings apply to all glasses or you have to do it for each pair? They are working great with my Samsung C80000 but if I can tune them that's even better.

One of my favorites is Disney's Tangled. The content is bright and there are quite a few scenes set against open sky, so you can easliy check for ghosting, etc.; there is also a full color pallette so you can tell if you're over-adjusting.

I usually start by pausing on a scene and tuning the delay/duty cycle until there is zero ghosting; then I put the scene in motion and pull back until the flicker on my 60hz setup is negligible.

Another movie that works well for evaluating flicker if you have a 60hz display Tron Legacy (the bright white scenes at Flynn's house off the grid).

You could also try one of the 3d crosstalk tests posted here.

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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

4) Can the tuning be done using the joystick or must it be done with the PC software?

It can be done using the joystick; procedure is outlined in the manual. However, you may find the pc utility to be easier.

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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

5) My transmitter came with firmware version 1.05.004 installed. After I updated it, the firmware still said it was that version. Is this the latest version? Even though I just got the glasses today I would be a bit surprised if it already had the latest on it.

6) Is there a way to force a pair of glasses to update the firmware by communicating with the transmitter to redownload it? With my first pair I specifically say the rapidly blinking lights while it updated itself. But on my second pair I didn't see this - so want to make sure it has the latest.

Not certain about the firmware (Monster doesn't specify the latest version on their download page!), but I think 1.05.004 is indeed the latest version; I'm still running the one it came with, and it works fine.

One way you can check for the latest firmware is to try adjusting the polarity with the joystick; the latest firmware has a different method.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

7) How do you turn the glasses OFF? I know where the power button is, but whether I push it and let go, or push and old - either way they stay on. Scenario: 2 people watching 3D, 1 person leaves the room - if they don't turn the glasses off they will stay in sync and drain the battery. So certainly there should be a way to turn them off?

The glasses turn off automatically after not detecting the emitter for five minutes. There is no way to force them off (although I suppose you could move them out of range of the emitter and let them power off automatically).

Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

8) How many charges do you think the battery is good for? I know each charge lasts 40+ hours so that's good. But I figure eventually (perhaps years) the battery will hold less and less of a charge. Does anyone know if the battery is replaceable at that point?

No idea.

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Thanks!

You're welcome!
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post #186 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

it's a shame there is no way to adjust in real time, but it is nice they put in the switch left/right lense for those having issues.

I am using these on my Sony HW30 projector and have been able to tune ghosting to nearly non-existence.


Jason,

They do adjust in real time. In your picture you are not connected (Device Not Found).

Here is a pic connected and as I move the sliders it adjusts in real time.

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post #187 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

....8) How many charges do you think the battery is good for? I know each charge lasts 40+ hours so that's good. But I figure eventually (perhaps years) the battery will hold less and less of a charge. Does anyone know if the battery is replaceable at that point?

Thanks!

Standard Lithium-Ion rules apply. Abut 500 full cycle charges or 10 years. *Frequent "top off" charges best (don't run to dead). Run completely dead about 4 times a year to calibrate charging circuits.

Batt. grow crystals in dead cells (this is why you should charge often and keep them charged) so capacity diminishes over time.

Not user replaceable but even if you only get 5 or 6 years of service do you really think you will still be using theses?

*Doesn't count as a full cycle charge.
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post #188 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 05:01 AM
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How is everyone dealing with the controller when watching 2D. The flashing red LED's are distracting and bright. I tried hiding behind my HTPC but still can see them. Are you unplugging the controller after each 3D viewing?
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post #189 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William View Post

Standard Lithium-Ion rules apply. Abut 500 full cycle charges or 10 years. *Frequent "top off" charges best (don't run to dead). Run completely dead about 4 times a year to calibrate charging circuits.

Batt. grow crystals in dead cells (this is why you should charge often and keep them charged) so capacity diminishes over time.

Not user replaceable but even if you only get 5 or 6 years of service do you really think you will still be using theses?

*Doesn't count as a full cycle charge.

Thanks William! That's really helpful. Regarding the "top off" charges - am I correct to assume that the number of these is much higher than the 500 full cycle charge count? So maybe top it off say when it gets to 50%?
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post #190 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William View Post

Jason,

They do adjust in real time. In your picture you are not connected (Device Not Found).

Great to know! This will make adjusting much easier. I'll bring my laptop into the room and adjust on the fly.

The MonsterVision manual states that when using the IR receiver the default settings for these adjustments should already be ideal. Therefore I am curious if anyone has actually seen any benefits to changing these parameters when using the IR receiver? I'll be testing this today and will let you guys know.

I haven't played with the settings yet and have done only a very limited amount of viewing, but so far the glasses look fantastic with my Samsung PN63C8000.

I've only seen one noticeable instance of ghosting and that was with the opening of Despicable Me when the big giant "Despicable Me" letters stick out. Very significant ghosting on both the left and right sides (same with my non Monstervision glasses). So I'll see if these settings will help with this. Its also possible that this is not ghosting and just the way the image is created.
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post #191 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 06:55 AM
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To answer one of my own original questions - it seems that when the glasses become fully charged while connected to the charging cable that the LED glows red almost solidly but with little blips (so its not a solid glow, but pretty close).

So far there are only two things I do not like about the glasses.

1) The power button is difficult to press especially for young kids, with practically not tactile feedback.

2) I really do not like that there is no way (apparently) to turn the glasses off. Yes its great that they turn off after 5 minutes with no 3D signal. However there are two scenarios that I can see happening:

a) 5 people sit down to watch 3D. After a bit 3 of the people decide they don't want to watch anymore (you know how young kids can be) so they run off, while the others watch for 3 hours.

Normally you'd turn their glasses off when the 3 people leave - but with these you can't. So now 3 pairs of glasses will be using power for 3 hours. This will contribute of course to draining the battery and increasing the PITA factor of having to charge these.

Further, I can see a scenario where the TV is left on in 2D->3D conversion mode for 8 hours while people are in and out of the room (mostly out!). The glasses will stay on all day and drain quickly. Usually folks are pretty good about turning off the glasses, but with these they'll just stay on until eventually the TV is turned off. This isn't a deal breaker but far from ideal.

How hard would it be for them to just let you push and hold the power button for a couple seconds to have them turn off??
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post #192 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William View Post

How is everyone dealing with the controller when watching 2D. The flashing red LED's are distracting and bright. I tried hiding behind my HTPC but still can see them. Are you unplugging the controller after each 3D viewing?

There are a couple ways I plan to handle this. One is to mask the lights with electric tape. I would still be able to look under the tape (from the side) to check the lights if need be. Or alternatively I may wrap the end of the transmitter (where the lights are of course) in something like an ace flexible bandage (like you use to wrap your wrist). That's easy to unwrap to check the lights.

Or yet another way I may build a little cardboard box and put it in there, or even try putting the whole thing in like an eyeglass case or something. Should be pretty easy to solve.
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post #193 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 07:11 AM
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It would be great if they provided more levels of feedback on the charge state of the glasses. Currently its just > 50%, > 10% and < 10%. However I'd also like to know when it was > 75%, as well as > 20%.

For example, I'd probably want to top off the charge whenever it fell to below 75%. With their current approach, I'd have to wait until it fell below 50%. I know this isn't that big of a deal, but it probably would have only added about 5 minutes to development time for them to add this extra granularity in the charge state feedback.

Yea they were probably just trying to keep the instructions as simple as possible (only 3 states of the lights/blinks for feedback). But adding one or two more levels of feedback here wouldn't have made a big difference in that regard.

Also - the instruction manuals say that two blinks mean > 50%, and the next step from there are 6 blinks. However I get THREE blinks, not two, when the glasses are well charged. Anyone else seeing this? I wonder if it is just a typo in the manual and they meant to put 3 blinks where they wrote 2?
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post #194 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 07:13 AM
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Does anyone have a link where the instruction manual for the Optoma or VIP kit/glasses can be obtained? I have the link for the Monstervision manuals, but I'd like to cross reference some information in the other vendor manuals to see if there are any differences that may better explain some things such as the charging and charge state lights. Thanks.
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post #195 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Thanks William! That's really helpful. Regarding the "top off" charges - am I correct to assume that the number of these is much higher than the 500 full cycle charge count? So maybe top it off say when it gets to 50%?

Yes, in general for instance if you use a little over 25% and top of charge this is about = to 1/4 charge. The more often you charge the more life/capacity you will have.
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post #196 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 07:29 AM
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Yes, in general for instance if you use about 25% and top of charge this is about = to 1/4 charge. The more often you charge the more life/capacity you will have.

Wouldn't that just work out to the same? For example, if you drained to 75% 4 times then you used 1/4 charges 4 times = 1 full cycle charge. Compared if if just let it drain to 0% then you had the same usage out of it (100% versus 25% 4 times) and still one full cycle charge, no?
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post #197 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 08:04 AM
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William - you posted above screen shots and said you can adjust them in real-time. That was encouraging. However I am trying this and its not working, because the IR receiver/transmitter shows flashing red lights when connected to the laptop.

Here are the details...

I have the IR receiver plugged into the USB on the TV. When I turn on 3D, the red flashing LEDs turn to 5 green lights right away, and everything works fine.

However when I plug the IR receiver into the laptop, the light only flash like they are searching for the IR signal (no green). I can then remove it from the laptop, plug back into the TV's USB, and all green lights come right back.

It does not matter if the Monstervision 3D application is running on not on the laptop - same results (will not turn to green when powered by the laptop).

As a side note, the application does allow me to connect to the IR receiver and reads it just fine, showing me the firmware in the status bar instead of "device not found" so I know that aspect of it is working. So it seems I cannot adjust in real-time like you can. What do you think the difference could be??
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post #198 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

It would be great if they provided more levels of feedback on the charge state of the glasses. Currently its just > 50%, > 10% and < 10%. However I'd also like to know when it was > 75%, as well as > 20%.

For example, I'd probably want to top off the charge whenever it fell to below 75%. With their current approach, I'd have to wait until it fell below 50%. I know this isn't that big of a deal, but it probably would have only added about 5 minutes to development time for them to add this extra granularity in the charge state feedback.

Yea they were probably just trying to keep the instructions as simple as possible (only 3 states of the lights/blinks for feedback). But adding one or two more levels of feedback here wouldn't have made a big difference in that regard.

Also - the instruction manuals say that two blinks mean > 50%, and the next step from there are 6 blinks. However I get THREE blinks, not two, when the glasses are well charged. Anyone else seeing this? I wonder if it is just a typo in the manual and they meant to put 3 blinks where they wrote 2?

The manual is incorrect. The avsforumite Sgtvideo has already noted that 3 blinks is correct and I confirm my glasses also blink thrice
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post #199 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Wouldn't that just work out to the same? For example, if you drained to 75% 4 times then you used 1/4 charges 4 times = 1 full cycle charge. Compared if if just let it drain to 0% then you had the same usage out of it (100% versus 25% 4 times) and still one full cycle charge, no?

Yes but the dead cells grow crystals so you increase the life by limiting the time/amount of dead cells. So doing full cycle drains will give you a lower life with quicker diminished capacity. For instance by doing frequent top off charges you may have 600 charge cycles instead of 500. Also you may have 10% more capacity in a year then if you do full cycle discharges each time.
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post #200 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

William - you posted above screen shots and said you can adjust them in real-time. That was encouraging. However I am trying this and its not working, because the IR receiver/transmitter shows flashing red lights when connected to the laptop.

Here are the details...

I have the IR receiver plugged into the USB on the TV. When I turn on 3D, the red flashing LEDs turn to 5 green lights right away, and everything works fine.

However when I plug the IR receiver into the laptop, the light only flash like they are searching for the IR signal (no green). I can then remove it from the laptop, plug back into the TV's USB, and all green lights come right back.

It does not matter if the Monstervision 3D application is running on not on the laptop - same results (will not turn to green when powered by the laptop).

As a side note, the application does allow me to connect to the IR receiver and reads it just fine, showing me the firmware in the status bar instead of "device not found" so I know that aspect of it is working. So it seems I cannot adjust in real-time like you can. What do you think the difference could be??

Is it possible your laptop's USB is not outputting enough amperage. I think the Monster is a monster power draw on USB. I did get a warning about this on my Mac.
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post #201 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 09:29 AM
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Well guys its been a frustrating morning trying to tune work with the fine tuning.

First I used the laptop sliders blindly just to try it (because I cannot adjust in real-time as noted in post above). And of course this made a mess of the picture.

So then I went into the utility to try and reset them back to factory defaults, but there is no such option. I don't know if sliders all the way down are even the defaults! But at any rate, the lowest the sliders will go are something like 20 and 10, whereas before I changed them there were no values in those fields at all (and couldn't get it back to that state).

OK so next I decided to just use the instructions in the manual to reset the IR receiver/transmitter back to the factory settings. I am pretty darn sure I am following the instructions properly (having tried it dozens of times!) but it doesn't appear to be resetting.

The manual states this:
Quote:


1. Press & Hold the Joystick to the left for 10 Seconds
2. All LEDs should illuminate GREEN, Hold until this occurs
3. The factory Reset is complete when all LEDs flash really fast

This however doesn't work as described. When I perform step 1, after about 7 seconds all lights turn off. Then as I continue to hold indefinitely, nothing happens. All lights do not turn green as it says, and no leds flash really fast.

I'd really like to reset back to the factory to clear the tuning parameters because the manual does state that resetting to factory resets those - and that's what I'm after.

OK so next I decide I will try to tune it using using the joystick. The directions say to "Press & Hold the joystick until the first 2 LEDs illuminate GREEN.". But once again, same thing - after I hold the joystick left all lights turn off and that's it. I then noticed if I press the joystick left again and hold it, the lights start scrolling up. If I stop at the second light it then seems to be in the tuning mode. However once in there, I can't figure out how to get to the default settings.

Great product, but either the documentation is wrong and in need of correction, or I am just doing something really dumb. Frustrating either way.

Thanks!
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post #202 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William View Post

Is it possible your laptop's USB is not outputting enough amperage. I think the Monster is a monster power draw on USB. I did get a warning about this on my Mac.

Yes, it is quite possible. Bummer.
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post #203 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 02:32 PM
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Yes, it is quite possible. Bummer.

You might try a powered USB hub.
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post #204 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by William View Post

You might try a powered USB hub.

Good point. Although after finding it (seemingly) impossible to reset the sliders back to their factory default positions I've pretty much given up on trying to configure it with the laptop.

Instead I'm poking around with the joystick. Adjusting the duty cycle seems pretty straight forward and I found a sweet spot for reducing ghosting.

Although I do not see how to properly set the delay parameter... I've tried going from one extreme to the other and do not see any benefit (just a worsening in every position). Is there a good trick for finding the sweet spot on that?

Also would be great to get your thoughts on my post above about how to reset fine tuning settings to factory defaults if you have any info or experience on that. Thanks.
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post #205 of 1059 Old 09-25-2011, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Good point. Although after finding it (seemingly) impossible to reset the sliders back to their factory default positions I've pretty much given up on trying to configure it with the laptop.

Instead I'm poking around with the joystick. Adjusting the duty cycle seems pretty straight forward and I found a sweet spot for reducing ghosting.

Although I do not see how to properly set the delay parameter... I've tried going from one extreme to the other and do not see any benefit (just a worsening in every position). Is there a good trick for finding the sweet spot on that?

Also would be great to get your thoughts on my post above about how to reset fine tuning settings to factory defaults if you have any info or experience on that. Thanks.

If you have a Sony HW30ES projector I can tell you what values you need but....

I have never used the joystick to set. I'm actually new (just got them Friday) and have yet to actually watch a 3D movie with them (I'm watching Star Wars and have Ep. VI to go but going to watch Football tonight).

I had a corrupt firmware update on the first try and had to reset. I had a HELL of a time getting them reset and spent over an hour. Unfortunately I tried so many things that I can't remember what worked.

Try unplugging then hold the joystick to the left and plug in while holding. Then release and press and hold again for 10 seconds and se if you can get the 4 green LED's to show.

Also try with the Management Utility closed.
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post #206 of 1059 Old 09-26-2011, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Well guys its been a frustrating morning trying to tune work with the fine tuning.

First I used the laptop sliders blindly just to try it (because I cannot adjust in real-time as noted in post above). And of course this made a mess of the picture.

So then I went into the utility to try and reset them back to factory defaults, but there is no such option. I don't know if sliders all the way down are even the defaults! But at any rate, the lowest the sliders will go are something like 20 and 10, whereas before I changed them there were no values in those fields at all (and couldn't get it back to that state).

OK so next I decided to just use the instructions in the manual to reset the IR receiver/transmitter back to the factory settings. I am pretty darn sure I am following the instructions properly (having tried it dozens of times!) but it doesn't appear to be resetting.

The manual states this:


This however doesn't work as described. When I perform step 1, after about 7 seconds all lights turn off. Then as I continue to hold indefinitely, nothing happens. All lights do not turn green as it says, and no leds flash really fast.

I'd really like to reset back to the factory to clear the tuning parameters because the manual does state that resetting to factory resets those - and that's what I'm after.

OK so next I decide I will try to tune it using using the joystick. The directions say to "Press & Hold the joystick until the first 2 LEDs illuminate GREEN.". But once again, same thing - after I hold the joystick left all lights turn off and that's it. I then noticed if I press the joystick left again and hold it, the lights start scrolling up. If I stop at the second light it then seems to be in the tuning mode. However once in there, I can't figure out how to get to the default settings.

Great product, but either the documentation is wrong and in need of correction, or I am just doing something really dumb. Frustrating either way.

Thanks!

Personally I don't bother using a laptop to adjust the tuning, it is just faster and more convenient for me using the jstick.

As far as doing a default reset to clear tuning settings it doesn't really matter, any tuning adjustment overwrites the previous. That's why when folks have multiple displays they have to retune because their old settings were overwritten each time.

Another thing we need to keep in mind that "intermittent" ghosting is not necessarily a fault of the glasses or tuning. Some 3D content has flaws that are already documented by other viewers. This has been noted in such movies as Tron3D. So don't let 3D content make you think you equipment is at fault. Occasionally the frame-lock may momentarily break sync in the video display or shutter glasses and a brief moment of ghosting may occur.

As long as the picture normalizes in short order it doesn't matter at this stage as there are still some bugs for this industry to work out.

A few transmitters can have a glitch in their firmware and sometimes refreshing the firmware clears up issues such as sliders not functioning.

Using the updated firmware that was developed for VIP3D gives a better method of polarity adjustment than what is demonstrated in the Monster manual. Most people could not make the jstick position itself to go into that mode properly.

The updated firmware is compatible with the Monstervision glasses, of course updating firmware comes with it's risk if done improperly. I do not know if Monster would honor a transmitter failure if one messed it up. Personally, since Bit Cauldron developed it I don't see why they wouldn't but you never know.

This firmware update is posted on the Curt Palme VIP3D forum site and my instructions for it's use are there as well.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27776


Back to your attempts to enter tuning mode:

1. Assuming the transmitter is in normal operation. Press and hold jstick UP until the 2nd LED appears and quickly release.

2. Now when you press the jstick UP/DOWN the RED LEDS will increase/decrease this is Delay Tuning. It has the greatest effect for minimizing ghosting.

3. When you press the jstick LEFT/RIGHT the AMBER LEDS will increase/decrease, this is Duty Cycle and has the greatest effect on brightness levels through the RF glasses. Balancing back and forth between the two adjustments provides the optimum to reduce ghosting and brightness levels that provide the best picture. For me it only takes a couple minutes and once it's done for THAT display you shouldn't need to later.

4. After about a 2 minute interval of none adjustment then the settings are saved and overwrite the previous settings. You may briefly see a glitch as the glasses resync after the save function completes.


Anyway, try the previous before doing any firmware updating and see if it makes better sense as the manual has it's weaknesses.

I expect changes in the next group of RF glasses but we are all using generation Uno for now.


=============

As a second thought in regards to using the VIP3D update, if your transmitter is unresponsive to the RF glasses utility, then you should work that out with Monstervision support. Using a rebranded firmware may not come with Monsters blessing and perhaps they should have Bit Cauldron provide a version of that update to them. Even though I Beta tested the firmware change for VIP3D and Bit Cauldron I don't want to get in between the two manufacturers if a support issue develops by using it for Monster branded glasses.
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post #207 of 1059 Old 09-26-2011, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by William View Post

If you have a Sony HW30ES projector I can tell you what values you need but....

I have never used the joystick to set. I'm actually new (just got them Friday) and have yet to actually watch a 3D movie with them (I'm watching Star Wars and have Ep. VI to go but going to watch Football tonight).

I had a corrupt firmware update on the first try and had to reset. I had a HELL of a time getting them reset and spent over an hour. Unfortunately I tried so many things that I can't remember what worked.

Try unplugging then hold the joystick to the left and plug in while holding. Then release and press and hold again for 10 seconds and se if you can get the 4 green LED's to show.

Also try with the Management Utility closed.


when you were trying to do a fimware update, did the progress bar complete or abort?

If it completed, the LEDS should have begun strobing normally.

IF it failed before completion then only the #2 LED will be lit and that indicates the transmitter is stuck in update mode.

There is a fix for that if that's the case which I won't get in on here for now.

To my knowledge there is no new firmware for the Monster RF glasses as currently shipped. They are all on Vxxxx.004 if I remember but you can still use the same utility to adjust the sliders. The utility should report the current version that is in the transmitter.
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post #208 of 1059 Old 09-26-2011, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by SgtVideo View Post

Personally I don't bother using a laptop to adjust the tuning, it is just faster and more convenient for me using the jstick.

As far as doing a default reset to clear tuning settings it doesn't really matter, any tuning adjustment overwrites the previous. That's why when folks have multiple displays they have to retune because their old settings were overwritten each time.

Another thing we need to keep in mind that "intermittent" ghosting is not necessarily a fault of the glasses or tuning. Some 3D content has flaws that are already documented by other viewers. This has been noted in such movies as Tron3D. So don't let 3D content make you think you equipment is at fault. Occasionally the frame-lock may momentarily break sync in the video display or shutter glasses and a brief moment of ghosting may occur.

As long as the picture normalizes in short order it doesn't matter at this stage as there are still some bugs for this industry to work out.

A few transmitters can have a glitch in their firmware and sometimes refreshing the firmware clears up issues such as sliders not functioning.

Using the updated firmware that was developed for VIP3D gives a better method of polarity adjustment than what is demonstrated in the Monster manual. Most people could not make the jstick position itself to go into that mode properly.

The updated firmware is compatible with the Monstervision glasses, of course updating firmware comes with it's risk if done improperly. I do not know if Monster would honor a transmitter failure if one messed it up. Personally, since Bit Cauldron developed it I don't see why they wouldn't but you never know.

This firmware update is posted on the Curt Palme VIP3D forum site and my instructions for it's use are there as well.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27776


Back to your attempts to enter tuning mode:

1. Assuming the transmitter is in normal operation. Press and hold jstick UP until the 2nd LED appears and quickly release.

2. Now when you press the jstick UP/DOWN the RED LEDS will increase/decrease this is Delay Tuning. It has the greatest effect for minimizing ghosting.

3. When you press the jstick LEFT/RIGHT the AMBER LEDS will increase/decrease, this is Duty Cycle and has the greatest effect on brightness levels through the RF glasses. Balancing back and forth between the two adjustments provides the optimum to reduce ghosting and brightness levels that provide the best picture. For me it only takes a couple minutes and once it's done for THAT display you shouldn't need to later.

4. After about a 2 minute interval of none adjustment then the settings are saved and overwrite the previous settings. You may briefly see a glitch as the glasses resync after the save function completes.


Anyway, try the previous before doing any firmware updating and see if it makes better sense as the manual has it's weaknesses.

I expect changes in the next group of RF glasses but we are all using generation Uno for now.


=============

As a second thought in regards to using the VIP3D update, if your transmitter is unresponsive to the RF glasses utility, then you should work that out with Monstervision support. Using a rebranded firmware may not come with Monsters blessing and perhaps they should have Bit Cauldron provide a version of that update to them. Even though I Beta tested the firmware change for VIP3D and Bit Cauldron I don't want to get in between the two manufacturers if a support issue develops by using it for Monster branded glasses.

Thanks! Could you kindly describe in detail the process you use to perform the fine tuning? Like maybe provide a specific scene/frame from Tangled or Cloudy with a chance of Meatballs that I should pause and use as the reference? And then how to know which control to try and what to look for before reversing etc?

Here's what I've done so far... I got it into Fine Tuning mode and by default the Duty (amber) lights were almost maxed out - the last light was just a tad dimmer. Things look very good in this situation, but I figured, hey I'm a calibrator so why not try to tweak it?

So then I took the Duty all the way up so it was as bright as it went. I noticed some ghosting on a particular scene and compared it to my NXG glasses which did not ghost.

So then I lowered the Duty by 4 clicks to the left. At that point just about all the ghosting was gone. Technically it should be more like 6 or 7 clicks, but I decided to run it a little "hot" just to make the tradeoff that I'd take a little ghosting here and there in exchange for a brighter image.

Anyway, it was pretty clear how to adjust the Duty. But for the Delay, I really didn't how what to look for or how this would interact with the Duty setting. Initially instead of dropping Duty 4 clicks I tried changing Delay up/down a bit but that didn't make a difference. Just seems like delay throws off color. Is there a clearer way to know whether a Delay adjustment is needed or would be helpful?

Thanks!
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post #209 of 1059 Old 09-26-2011, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Thanks! Could you kindly describe in detail the process you use to perform the fine tuning? Like maybe provide a specific scene/frame from Tangled or Cloudy with a chance of Meatballs that I should pause and use as the reference? And then how to know which control to try and what to look for before reversing etc?

Here's what I've done so far... I got it into Fine Tuning mode and by default the Duty (amber) lights were almost maxed out - the last light was just a tad dimmer. Things look very good in this situation, but I figured, hey I'm a calibrator so why not try to tweak it?

So then I took the Duty all the way up so it was as bright as it went. I noticed some ghosting on a particular scene and compared it to my NXG glasses which did not ghost.

So then I lowered the Duty by 4 clicks to the left. At that point just about all the ghosting was gone. Technically it should be more like 6 or 7 clicks, but I decided to run it a little "hot" just to make the tradeoff that I'd take a little ghosting here and there in exchange for a brighter image.

Anyway, it was pretty clear how to adjust the Duty. But for the Delay, I really didn't how what to look for or how this would interact with the Duty setting. Initially instead of dropping Duty 4 clicks I tried changing Delay up/down a bit but that didn't make a difference. Just seems like delay throws off color. Is there a clearer way to know whether a Delay adjustment is needed or would be helpful?

Thanks!

My method of fine tuning is quite simple. I wait until the disk loads up the Options menu for the movie, which I hope is also in 3D of course. Reason I prefer it, I use the text matter to adjust out ghosting. Usually text is best depending on what colors they chose is highly contrasty with it's background; i.e. white letters against black background.

Once I've minimized the text ghosting with DELAY, I don't really care what the scene background looks like except for it's brightness level which is then tweaked with DUTY. If the Duty cycle brings back the ghost you might try tweak Delay again but then you might just determine your better off just backing the brightness down instead.

The reason I said in the 2nd paragraph I don't care much what the scene background looks like is because of the possibility of imperfections in the scene. So it's not worth trying to tune against a source that may have it's own set of flaws.

One thing that gets overlooked is when Delay is maxed out is the possiblity of inadvertently reversing Polarity; unless of course you want to.

In your case, it is best to start over, unless of course your are satisfied, and enter tuning mode and zero out all the LEDS. Start for instance with just 1 AMBER Duty cycle LED and then adjust out any ghosting with Delay. If good then gradually up Duty (brightness).

The clearest way you know Delay is properly set is by image sharpness, no ghost.

I've mentioned in the past that once these adjustments are made you are done. Well that is only true if the source display is not changed, the same playback device is used. If for instance you got things adjusted for your Blu-Ray and then decided to watch cable 3D then you might have to retune.

Also some 3D Blu-Rays may have reversed polarity but since my collection is small at this point, I haven't experienced it as yet.
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post #210 of 1059 Old 09-26-2011, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
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My method of fine tuning is quite simple. I wait until the disk loads up the Options menu for the movie, which I hope is also in 3D of course. Reason I prefer it, I use the text matter to adjust out ghosting. Usually text is best depending on what colors they chose is highly contrasty with it's background; i.e. white letters against black background.

Once I've minimized the text ghosting with DELAY, I don't really care what the scene background looks like except for it's brightness level which is then tweaked with DUTY. If the Duty cycle brings back the ghost you might try tweak Delay again but then you might just determine your better off just backing the brightness down instead.

The reason I said in the 2nd paragraph I don't care much what the scene background looks like is because of the possibility of imperfections in the scene. So it's not worth trying to tune against a source that may have it's own set of flaws.

One thing that gets overlooked is when Delay is maxed out is the possiblity of inadvertently reversing Polarity; unless of course you want to.

In your case, it is best to start over, unless of course your are satisfied, and enter tuning mode and zero out all the LEDS. Start for instance with just 1 AMBER Duty cycle LED and then adjust out any ghosting with Delay. If good then gradually up Duty (brightness).

The clearest way you know Delay is properly set is by image sharpness, no ghost.

I've mentioned in the past that once these adjustments are made you are done. Well that is only true if the source display is not changed, the same playback device is used. If for instance you got things adjusted for your Blu-Ray and then decided to watch cable 3D then you might have to retune.

Also some 3D Blu-Rays may have reversed polarity but since my collection is small at this point, I haven't experienced it as yet.

Thanks. When I did some testing yesterday I tried moving the DELAY in each direction. Didn't seem to affect ghosting AT ALL but it did make the colors get out of whack and also made things look grainy.

I'm curious about your technique - it seems to be based on using DELAY as the primary control, and DUTY as the secondary control for fine tuning from there.

However I would think it would be reversed, because ultimately don't we want to find the brightest possible setting (highest DUTY) that we can run without introducing ghosting? So I would think ideally we'd adjust DUTY until ghosting first appears, then use DELAY to try and fine tune that so we could have the highest duty without ghosting, no?
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