Mits 3DA-1 stopped working on my Samsung - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 243 Old 09-08-2011, 07:52 AM
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That's certainly a possibility. I'll check when I get home from work if someone doesn't beat me to it. Does it feel loose?
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post #182 of 243 Old 09-08-2011, 11:21 AM
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The hole in the 3da-1 that the plug goes into looks a bit larger than the outer barrel, but it could be by design. I have no idea if it is making contact. I measured the barrel that I have and it is 5.5mm outer and 2.1mm inner. Seems to fit the hole, but it looks like the outer dimension of the hole is a lot larger than the outside dimension of the barrel plug.
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post #183 of 243 Old 09-14-2011, 10:52 AM
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Is it verified that the unlock reset doesn't work with the March version?
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post #184 of 243 Old 09-16-2011, 08:55 AM
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Sneakking posted a few pages back that his March 2011 did not work.
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post #185 of 243 Old 09-23-2011, 07:11 PM
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bought the 3da-1 on advice from a member before reading the manufacture date problem. I have it hooked up to my hl67a750. As soon as it comes on I get 'not compatible' even though I did the reset and got 1 blink. The man. date is march 2011 which I thought was ok, did I miss something ?

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post #186 of 243 Old 09-23-2011, 07:22 PM
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Back on page 2 or 3 we started talking about dates and May 2011 did not work. We also know that Dec 2010 does.
Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy!

Another post
I read this forum and immediately set out to get a used 3DC-1000 from eBay, manufacture date January 2011 (last known working date on 3da-1

2 post back from yours they said March Doesn't work.
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post #187 of 243 Old 09-24-2011, 07:32 AM
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I see that now, might have even read it, but didn't sink in.
I was so jazzed to get this working.

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post #188 of 243 Old 10-21-2011, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrylwill View Post

Back on page 2 or 3 we started talking about dates and May 2011 did not work. We also know that Dec 2010 does.
Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy!

Another post
I read this forum and immediately set out to get a used 3DC-1000 from eBay, manufacture date January 2011 (last known working date on 3da-1

2 post back from yours they said March Doesn't work.

You mention last known working date of adapter 3DA-1 is January 2011 (to have two flashing modes: 1st blink for Mits / 2nd blink for Samsung). That figures since that is the month Samsung and Mitsubishi told me there was going to be an adapter for the Samsungs (3DA-100S). So, they probably discontinued the two-flashing-mode 3DA-1 just after that time.
This is my guess:
Up to January 2011
3DA-1 with the two modes (1st blink allows use with Samsung TV).
After January 2011
3DA-1 with one mode for Mitsubishi.
3DA-100S with one mode for Samsung.
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post #189 of 243 Old 10-22-2011, 06:59 PM
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Anyone with a Samsung DLP + "reset" adapter + PS3 experiencing issues with the PS3 at times not "finding" a 3D compatible TV?

Recently bought a 3DA-1 "August 2010", performed the reset trick, and hooked it all up. The PS3 had a hard time recognizing the TV as 3d. I then redid the "reset" with the PS3 powered-on/connected to the adapter and it managed to recognize the 3D TV after a restart. Today it "can't find" a 3D TV again.

Could this have something to do with the "reset" adapter not having the correct EID info?
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post #190 of 243 Old 10-23-2011, 08:48 AM
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The only time I've seen that kind of behavior was when I had an HDMI cable with some connector issues. I thought the reset removed the ID check completely, rather than switched it to something other than Mitsubishi, so I don't think doing the reset while it's connected with PS3 on is doing what you think. I know I did the reset (successfully) with the 3da-1 completely isolated. Are you running through a switch or receiver?
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post #191 of 243 Old 10-23-2011, 09:16 AM
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PS3 is going straight to the adapter then to TV. I don't know why but doing the reset with PS3 on and then running the "auto detect" TV again in PS menu, re-detects it as 3d compatible. I'm ordering some new cables from Monoprice and see how that works out. I'll keep an eye on things in the meantime.

I want to add that, before re-doing the reset (after originally working), PS was unable to detect 3d compatibility.
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post #192 of 243 Old 10-24-2011, 09:03 AM
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When you connect the PS3 and especially after updating the software of the PS3, doing the PS3 HDMI setup screens again is often required. This is a PS3 thing not a TV or adapter thing.
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post #193 of 243 Old 11-02-2011, 10:39 PM
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hi Do I need the 3da-1 to display 3d with dlp link glasses? i think somes saying it works without the adapter. im confused.

thanks
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post #194 of 243 Old 11-03-2011, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmeq View Post

hi Do I need the 3da-1 to display 3d with dlp link glasses? i think somes saying it works without the adapter. im confused.

thanks

Depends on your TV set. For older "3D ready" sets that only display checkboard material, YES. For newer sets that support other formats, probably not. So, what is your TV?

FYI - the glasses have nothing to do with the 3DA-1. The 3DA-1 simply converts other 3D formats like side-by-side, top-bottom, and frame packed 3D signals into checkerboard format for older sets. If you have an older set with a blu-ray player that outputs checkerboard, then all you'll need is the glasses for 3D.

Make sense?
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post #195 of 243 Old 11-03-2011, 06:12 AM
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The adapter is only needed if your TV does not support the current 3d signals. It is used to convert those signals to checkerboard 3d. Nothing to do with the glasses.

Edit: nickels55 beat me to it :-)
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post #196 of 243 Old 11-03-2011, 10:14 AM
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Can anyone help me in finding the 3DA-1 with a Jan 2011 build date or sooner? eBay seems to be dry and there is one at Vanns but it seems like it was a return which makes me think it was probably an adapter that didn't work.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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post #197 of 243 Old 11-07-2011, 11:48 PM
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I'm really hoping someone here can help me.

I'm having an issue with my 3DA-1 and my mitsubishi TV.

I've had the setup working before, and recently moved and hooked everything back up.

I can not get my ps3 to give ANY display going through the adapter. Other sources will passthrough such as my cable box. If I hook the ps3 up directly to the TV or my receiver it works fine.

I've tried the reset trick in the event that would help, but nothing.

I'm positive all the connections are correct as I've spent a good 4 hours messing with this.

Anyone seen anything like this or can tell my why I'm not getting any signal to the TV? The adapter does turn on when I turn on the PS3, so it is at least getting some kind of signal via HDMI.

Any help is appreciated.



Edit for more info: TV is a WD-60C10. I upgraded the firmware to 12.02 on the TV. PS3 is fully updated. I'm at a loss.
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post #198 of 243 Old 11-09-2011, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

Depends on your TV set. For older "3D ready" sets that only display checkboard material, YES. For newer sets that support other formats, probably not. So, what is your TV?

FYI - the glasses have nothing to do with the 3DA-1. The 3DA-1 simply converts other 3D formats like side-by-side, top-bottom, and frame packed 3D signals into checkerboard format for older sets. If you have an older set with a blu-ray player that outputs checkerboard, then all you'll need is the glasses for 3D.

Make sense?


2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP so i huess i need one because mine only checkboard. thanks for the info
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post #199 of 243 Old 11-09-2011, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmeq View Post

2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP so i huess i need one because mine only checkboard. thanks for the info

Technically no, you don't "NEED" the 3DA-1 adapter if you only want to view 3D from a blu-ray player. There are a few models that output checkboard format, so all you would need is the right blu-ray player, a 3D movie, and a pair of DLP link glasses.

If you want to watch anything else in 3D (tv shows in side-by-side or top/bottom, PS3 games, or any other format besides checkerboard) then you'll need the 3dA-1 adapter.

PS - I have the 2007 model before yours, the HLT-6187s - 3D is fantastic on these sets!
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post #200 of 243 Old 11-12-2011, 07:16 PM
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Just posting to confirm that another Mitsubishi 3DA-1 with a build date of January 2011 works with this trick on my 61A650. I bought it off of eBay and asked the seller for the build date before purchasing. It was right on the edge of confirmed working build dates, so I was a little nervous, but I would have turned around and sold it back on eBay if it didn't work. I think somebody else bidding on the 3DA-1 knew that it should work with a Samsung DLP set since it was bid up well above retail value of the box, which you can purchase new on Amazon. Of course, Amazon probably has newer stock and you don't know what you're going to get, so it is worth more than retail for Samsung DLP owners.

Thank you for this forum and this thread for saving me at least $130. I'm very happy that the 3D ready set that I bought nearly 4 years ago is finally capable of playing 3D content from my PS3! I'm using the Ultimate3DHeaven Ultra-Clear DLP Link glasses by the way, which are working well for me!
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post #201 of 243 Old 12-09-2011, 11:35 AM
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^

I have the same set. Is the reason to go with the 3DC-1000 over the 3DA-1 because it comes with the glasses or the emitter?

I have a set of Sony Bravia 3d glasses with emitter. Can I use them with a 3DA-1?

The only reason I ask is because I have 4 pairs of those Sony Glasses.
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post #202 of 243 Old 12-09-2011, 11:40 AM
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If you want the adatper with glasses, I would suggest the 3DC-100S as there is no needed for the trick setting.

If you want to use DLP Link glasses then you only need the 3DA-1

The Sony emitter does not use a standard VESA connector so it cannot plug into the TV or the adatper. Why Sony chose something non-standard is beond me.
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post #203 of 243 Old 12-09-2011, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

If you want the adatper with glasses, I would suggest the 3DC-100S as there is no needed for the trick setting.

If you want to use DLP Link glasses then you only need the 3DA-1

The Sony emitter does not use a standard VESA connector so it cannot plug into the TV or the adatper. Why Sony chose something non-standard is beond me.

Thanks for the reply on the glasses, I think the reason we are looking at this over the 3dc-100s is because the price of the edc-100s is nuts unless something has changed.
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post #204 of 243 Old 01-03-2012, 03:31 AM
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got an offer to exchange my Nov 2010 for a 2011 model from my retailer, any thoughts??
i do for a few seconds with my dune d1 get mode errors switching video settings.
my 67a750 has the updated hdmi port 3 and everything is working fine.

thanks for the time
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post #205 of 243 Old 01-18-2012, 08:22 PM
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Forgive me if I overlooked this, but It's been awhile and I am picking back up getting glasses and such for my old sammy led dlp a750's. Doesnt this kit have the 3da-1 adapter in it. If so, then if you get one with a date on/before Jan 2011 you should be golden right? The 3dc-1000 kit is still cheaper than the 100s. I am looking on ebay for 3da-1'a, but it is slim pickins.. The kit is still sold in a lot of places so you could maybe find an 'older' one. TIA.

My Stuff:
Sam HL67A750 and Pan BDT-350 / HL61A750 and BDT-210
Viewsonic PGD-150 / IO system glasses & IR emitter / 3DTVcorp Gen2 emiter / x102 blue. *SSG1000
IR and DLP Link together :)
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post #206 of 243 Old 01-19-2012, 06:28 AM
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The 3DC-1000 comes with the adapter, an emitter, and 2 pairs of glasses. Knowing your set has DLP Link always on, I'd stay away from this kit. Just get the 3DA-1000 adapter and some DLP link glasses. If you can only get the kit than I'd sell the emitter and glasses that come in the kit.
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post #207 of 243 Old 01-19-2012, 08:39 AM
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TYVM nickels55!! I see some kits that have the glasses and/or emitter out in ebay. So this route would still be cheaper than the 100s or kit thru tru3d. And if I do get the whole kit I still find them way cheaper than the 100s and then as you said I can sell the emitter and glasses for some extra $$ relatively speaking of course

My Stuff:
Sam HL67A750 and Pan BDT-350 / HL61A750 and BDT-210
Viewsonic PGD-150 / IO system glasses & IR emitter / 3DTVcorp Gen2 emiter / x102 blue. *SSG1000
IR and DLP Link together :)
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post #208 of 243 Old 01-19-2012, 10:22 AM
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I posted this in another thread, but it looks like it is being overlooked. So I'm also posting here.

Have a Tru3D 3D TV Adapter KIT for Samsung 3D DLP HDTV on the way. I have a DirecTV HR22/100 DVR and a PS3 as the main 3D sources.

I currently have each of these connected via HDMI to my Sony STR-DG820 AVR then HDMI out to HDMI1 on my Samsung HL61A750. All works perfectly for 2D.

My goal is to get the best audio quality possible with my current set up while viewing 3D without having to maually connect and disconnect HDMI cables. I am wondering if the Monoprice 4X2 Matrix switcher (model #6415) will be the solution -see diagram attached for how it will be connected.

I realize the PS3 is going to be limited to at most 5.1 surround while viewing 3D content. Will it be reduced to 2.0 with the introduction of this switch?

Is where I have the switch going to introduce problems when trying to get the 3D signal to the TV (that is the adapter is unable to detect 3D content from the source)?

 

HomeTheater Set up.pdf 101.201171875k . file
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post #209 of 243 Old 03-02-2012, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDholic View Post

Anyone with a Samsung DLP + "reset" adapter + PS3 experiencing issues with the PS3 at times not "finding" a 3D compatible TV?

I'm having that very problem right now. After initially 'unlocking' my 3DC-100S everything was working great. Then for absolutely no reason whatsoever, the PS3 has decided it can't see a 3D TV any more. The adapter powers on with the PS3, I can switch between 3D modes with no problem (normal, left/right, top/bottom), but the PS3 refuses to enable 3D. No amount of resetting the adapter or the PS3 has worked so far.

I'm going to try hooking the adapter directly to the tv to see if that helps. Here's my setup btw, PS3 --> 3DC-100S --> Onkyo TX-SR705 --> Samsung HLT-5687S.
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post #210 of 243 Old 03-02-2012, 02:20 PM
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The Mits adapter should be between the receiver and the TV.
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