Originally Posted by danpritts
I'm having a hard time figuring out the pluses and minuses of DLP link vs. IR. Lots of conflicting information out there.
Especially since Augerhandle mentions that the $50 IR ultraclear rechargeables are the same glasses as the $70 true depth dlp link.
I've got the mitsubishi 60738, which supposedly can handle 3d with a firmware update. My viewing room does not have a lot of outside light, it's in a half-basement and the shades are good.
Anyone have a pointer to a good plus/minus document?
The $50 IR Ultraclears are not the same as the $70 True Depths. They may use the same frame and look the same, but the tech is different. Basically Pre-2010 DLP TV's need DLP-Link Glasses, and 2010+ DLP TV's can use either.
The reason you can ONLY use DLP-Link Glasses with Pre-2010 DLP's is because the TV's that were made in 07-09 do not have the option to turn the DLP-Link off, and the DLP-Link causes a white flash that give the viewing through IR glasses a very washed out look with very poor blacks. I know this first hand, the picture was unwatchable. However, they work perfectly with DLP-Link Glasses.
2010+ DLP Televisions have the option to turn off the DLP-Link, so you can use IR or DLP-Link. Just know that you cannot use both at the same time, so pick one. I can tell you that both technologies work very well.
You might have some more options with IR. If you decide to go the DLP-Link route, there are ONLY TWO OPTIONS: the Rechargeable True Depth DLP-Link Glasses, or the Optoma ZD201 Glasses. You can get the True Depth's off Amazon, and the Optoma's you can get off Ebay or Expansys-USA.
I'm not 100% sure about your TV, but I believe you have a 2010 model. Just to make sure, go to your menu, and check under the 3D menu if you have the option to turn off DLP-Link. If you don't have the option to turn it off, then remember, you can ONLY use DLP-Link in that option.