Mitsubishi 3D mode color wash - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 12:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone know how to correct this? When I enable the 3D mode on my WD-65C9, it washes out the colors horribly, casts a nasty green tint over the entire screen, crushes black levels, and just severely dulls the overall picture quality. Does anyone know how to compensate for this? I have my TV very nicely calibrated for normal 2D viewing via the "ADV" picture mode, but it just looks horrible when in 3D mode (even when not watching 3D material). Does anyone know how to fix this? I've heard something about DLP Link glasses fixing the problem? (I currently use IR glasses). Basically, I guess I just need to calibrate my 3D mode to accommodate for both the color wash as well as the tint of the glasses themselves. Any help much appreciated.

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post #2 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 05:48 AM
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I have a 2009 65735 and just got my TrueDepth DLP glasses last night and watched several scenes of Captain America. The PQ looked great, but I'll have to check it out more in depth (no pun intended!) on the color quality and what not.
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post #3 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 07:16 AM
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With my Sony, i up the color saturation and brightness a bit as well as play other settings.
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post #4 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 07:46 AM
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I'm not sure what is going on here.....

Most but not all Mitsubishi's have an option to turn off DLP Link. That alone could solve the issue. If there is no option to turn off DLP link? Then I think your only option is going to be get DLP link glasses.

I have had HDMI issues produce horrid green tint as well. I use DLP Link glasses thus far and have not seen this issue. I am also unclear as to exactly which model number my 65" is as I sit here at work.
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post #5 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 08:11 AM
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The tint is the DLP Link signal. If you can't turn it off you need to get DLP Link glasses which block the flash and correct the problems. This is why you don't use IR glasses on sets where you can't disable the DLP Link signal.
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post #6 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 09:16 AM
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If you decide to go with DLP Link glasses, I've found that the "Brilliant" setting provides rich colors and excellent contrast.
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post #7 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

The tint is the DLP Link signal. If you can't turn it off you need to get DLP Link glasses which block the flash and correct the problems. This is why you don't use IR glasses on sets where you can't disable the DLP Link signal.

Interesting. I wonder why the 3D kit specifically for this line of TVs comes with IR glasses then. Perhaps because they're cheaper? Don't get me wrong, the 3D quality as far as depth is nothing short of amazing, I just cant seem to get the colors right.

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post #8 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 09:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy1 View Post

If you decide to go with DLP Link glasses, I've found that the "Brilliant" setting provides rich colors and excellent contrast.

I'll have to try this then. Obviously in 2D mode, brilliant mode is certainly mitsubishi's torch mode, which is obviously way off. Do you agree with this? (Just trying to make sure we're on the same page here). I have the ADV picture mode fine tuned very nicely, I just used Katzmeier's settings from CNET and it seems to be very accurate (in a darkened room), but swapping it into 3D mode just creates a-whole-nother story. ADV is way too dark, brilliant is more like it as far as the brightness goes but colors are way blown out of the water, and everything in between just isn't right. I think I'm going to use calibration disc tonight and calibrate it in 3D mode while wearing the active 3D glasses.

There's no obvious way to disable "DLP Link" on my TV set.

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post #9 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocko1290 View Post

Interesting. I wonder why the 3D kit specifically for this line of TVs comes with IR glasses then. Perhaps because they're cheaper? Don't get me wrong, the 3D quality as far as depth is nothing short of amazing, I just cant seem to get the colors right.

My set is old but it is also DLP Link enabled (which can't be disabled) and the only official set of glasses for it were IR glasses. Go figure? They suck compared to DLP link glasses. The Ultra Clears made my blacks go fully black and completely removed the red tint on my set. The official IR glasses... not so much.
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post #10 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 10:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

My set is old but it is also DLP Link enabled (which can't be disabled) and the only official set of glasses for it were IR glasses. Go figure? They suck compared to DLP link glasses. The Ultra Clears made my blacks go fully black and completely removed the red tint on my set. The official IR glasses... not so much.

Really?! That's great to hear. I figured there was just going to have to be a tradeoff for the 3D depth, and that is sacrificing black levels and colors. Guess not! What are the best DLP link glasses? Are specific glasses better for different sets? Now it seems like my only problem is going to be the damn lag I'm getting . Anyone else experiencing this with the 3DA-1 Mitsubishi 3d adapter?

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post #11 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 10:55 AM
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Your issue is with the RGB setting on your source. The Mits adapter expects RGB = Limited... and it sounds like you have it set to Full.

RGB = Full changes what number your color levels start at => which turns your "blacks" to "greys".
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post #12 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 01:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin-Dawson View Post

Your issue is with the RGB setting on your source. The Mits adapter expects RGB = Limited... and it sounds like you have it set to Full.

RGB = Full changes what number your color levels start at => which turns your "blacks" to "greys".

You're saying its not a result of the "DLP Link flash" as everyone else has said?

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post #13 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 03:00 PM
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The DLP link flash is partly to blame - it causes the greenish tint to an extent. The blacks getting crushed is definitely the result of the RGB = Full setting though. Switch your source to Limited and it'll improve the picture 10 fold.
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post #14 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 03:16 PM
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If you're using a PS3, use these settings:

Settings> Video Settings> BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)> RGB

Settings> Display Settings> RGB Full Range (HDMI)> Limited

More about it here. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post20462332

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post #15 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 03:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin-Dawson View Post

The DLP link flash is partly to blame - it causes the greenish tint to an extent. The blacks getting crushed is definitely the result of the RGB = Full setting though. Switch your source to Limited and it'll improve the picture 10 fold.

It was already on limited..and the blacks are pretty bad..

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post #16 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocko1290 View Post

It was already on limited..and the blacks are pretty bad..

Check this menu, it has to be set on RGB or your Limited setting is bypassed.

Settings> Video Settings> BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)> RGB

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post #17 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 04:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Check this menu, it has to be set on RGB or your Limited setting is bypassed.

Settings> Video Settings> BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)> RGB

Both settings are adjusted according to what you suggested above. The Display setting was already on limited and I'm not sure if the video setting was on RGB already or not. Is it by default? I really didn't notice any difference when I switched it. Does the difference only come when actually watching 3D? Or when the TV is just in 3D mode? Because it is..and the blacks still look weak..

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post #18 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 04:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Check this menu, it has to be set on RGB or your Limited setting is bypassed.

Settings> Video Settings> BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)> RGB

Both settings are adjusted according to what you suggested above. The Display setting was already on limited and I'm not sure if the video setting was on RGB already or not. Is it by default? I really didn't notice any difference when I switched it. Does the difference only come when actually watching 3D? Or when the TV is just in 3D mode? Because it is..and the blacks still look weak..

EDIT*: I see absolutely no difference switching back and forth between the "RGB" and "Y Pb Pr" settings.

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post #19 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 04:57 PM
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The Optoma DLP link glasses cleaned up the 3D image for my daughter's Mits. We bought the Optoma ZD101 DLP glasses and are very pleased with the image. These glasses seem to sync in a way that eliminates the white-wash and are sharper than the IR glasses we were using that came with the original Mits 3D adapter kit.
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post #20 of 35 Old 11-29-2011, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocko1290 View Post

Both settings are adjusted according to what you suggested above. The Display setting was already on limited and I'm not sure if the video setting was on RGB already or not. Is it by default? I really didn't notice any difference when I switched it. Does the difference only come when actually watching 3D? Or when the TV is just in 3D mode? Because it is..and the blacks still look weak..

EDIT*: I see absolutely no difference switching back and forth between the "RGB" and "Y Pb Pr" settings.

Screen up a PLUGE test pattern with black and grey bars.

If the blacks are crushed, the darkest three or four bars will appear as the same shade of black, no matter where you set the Brightness control. If you don't have a test disc, any THX DVD will have the bars in the video calibration section.

I'm sure you'll see the difference then.

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post #21 of 35 Old 11-30-2011, 08:15 AM
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I'm fairly sure his issue is the DLP link washing out the picture. That is common.

FYI - I do not recommend the Optoma ZD 101s - clunky design, tight on my head, and very uncomfortable. I hear the 201s are fantastic though.
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post #22 of 35 Old 11-30-2011, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

I'm fairly sure his issue is the DLP link washing out the picture. That is common.

Yeah, me too, judging by his responses.

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post #23 of 35 Old 11-30-2011, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocko1290 View Post

I'll have to try this then. Obviously in 2D mode, brilliant mode is certainly mitsubishi's torch mode, which is obviously way off. Do you agree with this? (Just trying to make sure we're on the same page here). I have the ADV picture mode fine tuned very nicely, I just used Katzmeier's settings from CNET and it seems to be very accurate (in a darkened room), but swapping it into 3D mode just creates a-whole-nother story. ADV is way too dark, brilliant is more like it as far as the brightness goes but colors are way blown out of the water, and everything in between just isn't right. I think I'm going to use calibration disc tonight and calibrate it in 3D mode while wearing the active 3D glasses.

There's no obvious way to disable "DLP Link" on my TV set.

I also found the ADV mode much too dark for 3D. The Brilliant mode (which I agree is definitely Mitsubishi's torch mode) works best for me when viewing 3D content. BTW, I'm using the Optoma ZD101 DLP Link glasses which many find uncomfortable to wear (on me they're a bit heavy and too large). I had tried to find the ZD201's but could not; supposedly they were never released officially for sale in the US but I understand some people have found them on eBay.
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post #24 of 35 Old 11-30-2011, 04:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy1 View Post

I also found the ADV mode much too dark for 3D. The Brilliant mode (which I agree is definitely Mitsubishi's torch mode) works best for me when viewing 3D content. BTW, I'm using the Optoma ZD101 DLP Link glasses which many find uncomfortable to wear (on me they're a bit heavy and too large). I had tried to find the ZD201's but could not; supposedly they were never released officially for sale in the US but I understand some people have found them on eBay.

Do you not think that the colors are way too over-saturated in brilliant mode? I assumed ADV mode would become a little more suitable when wearing DLP Link instead of IR glasses.

I wonder how we can perfectly calibrate the TV for optimal closest to the D65 standard while watching 3D. I'd assume it's not simply a matter of turning up the brightness to compensate for the tinted lenses of the glasses (assuming you're using DLP Link to correct the "flash").

When you are viewing 3D with DLP Link glasses, do they accommodate for the flash so well that the colors are the same as the were prior to engaging 3D mode? Or is it just a little better than with IR glasses?

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post #25 of 35 Old 11-30-2011, 07:04 PM
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From what I've read, it appears that the DLP-Link glasses swap eyes during the DLP-Link flash, so you never get a chance to see the wash out effect.

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post #26 of 35 Old 11-30-2011, 07:39 PM
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I have a Mitsubishi 73838 and when I use DLP Link the image looks pretty poor, similar to how you are describing. When I use the IR emitter the image looks amazing. I just assume DLP Link washes out the colors a bit. This is on both the Samsung/Mitsubishi glasses and the Ultra-Clears.
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post #27 of 35 Old 12-01-2011, 12:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickoakdl View Post

I have a Mitsubishi 73838 and when I use DLP Link the image looks pretty poor, similar to how you are describing. When I use the IR emitter the image looks amazing. I just assume DLP Link washes out the colors a bit. This is on both the Samsung/Mitsubishi glasses and the Ultra-Clears.

Strange. Do you have the latest firmware?

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post #28 of 35 Old 12-01-2011, 12:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

From what I've read, it appears that the DLP-Link glasses swap eyes during the DLP-Link flash, so you never get a chance to see the wash out effect.

what? the flash doesn't alternate..it's always there

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post #29 of 35 Old 12-01-2011, 07:11 AM
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I have a short video on youtube showing how the Ultra Clears convert the red tinted blacks to fully black:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7iItYJK_3os

Of course my set is a Samsung, but I believe the effect is the same on a Mitts set just with a different tint.
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post #30 of 35 Old 12-01-2011, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocko1290 View Post

Do you not think that the colors are way too over-saturated in brilliant mode? I assumed ADV mode would become a little more suitable when wearing DLP Link instead of IR glasses.

I wonder how we can perfectly calibrate the TV for optimal closest to the D65 standard while watching 3D. I'd assume it's not simply a matter of turning up the brightness to compensate for the tinted lenses of the glasses (assuming you're using DLP Link to correct the "flash").

When you are viewing 3D with DLP Link glasses, do they accommodate for the flash so well that the colors are the same as the were prior to engaging 3D mode? Or is it just a little better than with IR glasses?

I don't find the colors over-saturated in Brilliant mode while watching 3D content, but I do for 2D programs. In my experience, the DLP Link glasses make the 3D images look as good as the 2D images using the calibrated ADV setting.
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