Passive and Active are the same in terms of compatibility with content. They both support the most common formats. Except that passive can also do interlaced 3D, which is supported by PC software like Youtube, Stereoscopic Player and StereoPhoto Maker. With Active, you normally have to put the TV in side-by-side mode and put the Youtube video in fullscreen side-by-side. With passive you can obviously do the same, or you can tell supported software to play interlaced, which makes it possible to display the 3D in a window or fullscreen, without distorting your desktop. It also gets you around the requirement of having to activating and deactivating 3D mode on the TV menu- just put the glasses on and take them off, it's as effortless as anaglyph glasses.
The main differences between Active and Passive are in the glasses tech and the display panel and how they affect picture quality, eye health, and thickness of your wallet. Passive is not as sharp in terms of screen resolution and the TV needs to be at eye level to reduce crosstalk.
I prefer Passive to Active Shutter though, because Passive glasses have zero flicker, block less light, typically weigh less, cost 1/100th of what Active costs, and they're just easier to operate. Oh, and you can get clip-ons for people who already wear glasses.
Go take a couple trips to stores and look for the downsides of each tech. Remember though that the "pop" factor varies with the content, so don't judge the 3D volume. If you do suspect something else at play, enter the 3D settings and make sure the depth or focus slider is at default. This affects depth/pop and people go into stores and mess with this setting without understanding its impact.
Hope I've been of some help to you