Originally Posted by Ostrogoth
I'm coming up to speed, learning about the various 3D models out there between 2010-present.
How does Mitsubishi DLP fit into all the above statements?
The do a checkerboard approach.
What type of 3D glasses should I be looking for?
I see many for sale on ebay and such, that say works with x, y, and z, company sets, but is Mitsubishi the only one with the checkerboard scenario?
If so, don't you need 'Mitsubish only' glasses?
Passive and active are not "formats". They are just different ways of viewing the SAME content. A 3D Blu-Ray will work with either TV type.
Passive blocks half the light to each eye (by virtue of the filters blocking half
the lines to each eye all
the time), and active also blocks half the light (by virtue of blocking all
of the light to each eye half
Because of it's fast pixel response time, DLP is known for NOT blurring or "ghosting", which is when some of one eye's view leaks into the other eye's view (the slow pixel response of LCD/LED, and long phosphor delay of plasma is usually blamed for this).
DLP uses checkerboard to separate left and right views, which while technically using half the pixels, is not half the resolution, due to it still showing the original 1920 x 1080 LINES (think of them as dotted lines). Passive uses half the pixels for each eye but does this on a line by line basis, showing only half the original lines (think of these as NOT dotted) to each eye, so it is truly half resolution.
Assumptions and arguments about resolution aside, many swear passive is just fine. The glasses are cheaper, so it also appeals to bargain hunters and people with large audiences (kids).
Passive owners will recommend passive,
and active owners will recommend active.
Each works best for THEIR particular priority. Weigh your own priorities, and decide for yourself.