3D formats explained ( and help of choosing a 3d TV - active/passive ) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 08-06-2012, 04:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Hello,



I am thinking of venturing in the 3d real, as there is some content I'd like to experience in 3D ( mostly documentaries but also movies ).


My biggest confusion: How do Bluray discs come nowadays ( Side By Side or Anaglyph or etc. )?

I am thinking about getting a Panasonic active 3d plasma ( VT 50 or GT 50 ). I don't mind heavier glasses, as I wouldn't be watching 3D more than 3-4 hours a week.

The reason I'd like to get an Active 3D is because of the better 3D image quality compared to passive. Now there is some stuff unclear here:

1) Side By Side means 540p per eye. I know how this format looks ( screen split in half and compressed together ).

2) What is the other version of 3D? I went to a local Best Buy and it was playing 3D scenes from Hugo ( it was NOT SIDE by SIDE ). Image looked "blurry" without glasses ( anaglyph like ). Seemed to be in full resolution. However it looked rather blurry and fuzzy with the glasses on ( I supposed non-animated movies don't look so good in 3D ). It's like I was watching a SD movie not HD. I did not get the chance to see an animated movie in 3D ( Chance of Meatballs, Tangled, Avatar, etc. ) This was an LG 55" LM7600.


3) Do 3d Blurays come in Side By Side , or would that a different "format"?



I'm looking at some 3D Torrents, they all seem to be Side by Side.



When watching a Side By Side movie, on an active 3d TV, the image will look the same as passive? I mean it's 540p.
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post #2 of 13 Old 08-06-2012, 07:22 AM
 
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3D BDs use Frame Packed. Two 1920x1080 images (one per eye) per "master frame" with 24 "master frames" per second.

With active shutter glasses, you will see full 1080P per eye.
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post #3 of 13 Old 08-06-2012, 11:24 AM
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The LG set you looked at was a passive set. Should not have been blury but maybe a little jaged if you were too close. Hugo Blu-ray is frame packed but a passive set only is 580 per eye ( big debate here I think they look as good as Active). you should look at an active set but most store displays are setup poorly and are not a good example of what these sets can do ( not the stores fault but the manufacters that setup and calibrate the displays).

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post #4 of 13 Old 08-06-2012, 04:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies.


1) So can a passive set play frame packed ( master frames ) bluray 3d?

and

2) Can an active set play side by side blurays?



Problem with local shop was, that only the LG worked. The other demos were broken or were playing different content ( not Hugo ), so I was unable to compare.
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post #5 of 13 Old 08-06-2012, 05:07 PM
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Both can play both. Most side by side (top bottom) content comes from cable/Sat or HTPC with internet content. All blu-ray true 3D is frame seq

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post #6 of 13 Old 08-07-2012, 10:33 AM
 
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Frame Packed 3D BD:

Blu-ray-3D-signal420.jpg

SbS 3D - usually 1080i

410comin3d_talk.jpg

Top/Bottom 3D - usually 720P

Topbottom.jpg
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post #7 of 13 Old 08-10-2012, 07:32 PM
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Passive and Active are the same in terms of compatibility with content. They both support the most common formats. Except that passive can also do interlaced 3D, which is supported by PC software like Youtube, Stereoscopic Player and StereoPhoto Maker. With Active, you normally have to put the TV in side-by-side mode and put the Youtube video in fullscreen side-by-side. With passive you can obviously do the same, or you can tell supported software to play interlaced, which makes it possible to display the 3D in a window or fullscreen, without distorting your desktop. It also gets you around the requirement of having to activating and deactivating 3D mode on the TV menu- just put the glasses on and take them off, it's as effortless as anaglyph glasses.

The main differences between Active and Passive are in the glasses tech and the display panel and how they affect picture quality, eye health, and thickness of your wallet. Passive is not as sharp in terms of screen resolution and the TV needs to be at eye level to reduce crosstalk.

I prefer Passive to Active Shutter though, because Passive glasses have zero flicker, block less light, typically weigh less, cost 1/100th of what Active costs, and they're just easier to operate. Oh, and you can get clip-ons for people who already wear glasses.

Go take a couple trips to stores and look for the downsides of each tech. Remember though that the "pop" factor varies with the content, so don't judge the 3D volume. If you do suspect something else at play, enter the 3D settings and make sure the depth or focus slider is at default. This affects depth/pop and people go into stores and mess with this setting without understanding its impact.

Hope I've been of some help to you smile.gif
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post #8 of 13 Old 12-03-2014, 10:31 AM
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I'm coming up to speed, learning about the various 3D models out there between 2010-present.

How does Mitsubishi DLP fit into all the above statements?

The do a checkerboard approach.
What type of 3D glasses should I be looking for?
I see many for sale on ebay and such, that say works with x, y, and z, company sets, but is Mitsubishi the only one with the checkerboard scenario?
If so, don't you need 'Mitsubish only' glasses?

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post #9 of 13 Old 12-03-2014, 10:53 AM
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I think I just answered a few questions.

It appears there are 4 historical formats?
And they all work in HDMI 1.4a or newer, correct?

Formats:
checkerboard
side-by-side
top-bottom (ESPN 3D)
frame packing (Blu-ray 3D)

Now, I'm not sure how this fits into active vs passive.
Are all 4 formats working in both active and passive situations?

Early sets from Mits couldn't do the last 2 formats until firmware updates around 2010 on a few of their earlier 3D sets.

The thing is....some recordings on Blu-Ray for 3D have changed over time, and are in various formats too, yes?
FHD3D is the modern one that's getting used now, but a few years ago, there were some Blu-Ray discs that didn't have it on this disc in this format?

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post #10 of 13 Old 12-03-2014, 10:59 AM
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There's some info from 2010 here also:
http://hdguru.com/3d-hdtv-and-hdmi-explained/1336/

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post #11 of 13 Unread Today, 04:30 AM
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thanks
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post #12 of 13 Unread Today, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ostrogoth View Post
I'm coming up to speed, learning about the various 3D models out there between 2010-present.

How does Mitsubishi DLP fit into all the above statements?

The do a checkerboard approach.
What type of 3D glasses should I be looking for?
I see many for sale on ebay and such, that say works with x, y, and z, company sets, but is Mitsubishi the only one with the checkerboard scenario?
If so, don't you need 'Mitsubish only' glasses?
Passive and active are not "formats". They are just different ways of viewing the SAME content. A 3D Blu-Ray will work with either TV type.

Passive blocks half the light to each eye (by virtue of the filters blocking half the lines to each eye all the time), and active also blocks half the light (by virtue of blocking all of the light to each eye half the time).


Because of it's fast pixel response time, DLP is known for NOT blurring or "ghosting", which is when some of one eye's view leaks into the other eye's view (the slow pixel response of LCD/LED, and long phosphor delay of plasma is usually blamed for this).

DLP uses checkerboard to separate left and right views, which while technically using half the pixels, is not half the resolution, due to it still showing the original 1920 x 1080 LINES (think of them as dotted lines). Passive uses half the pixels for each eye but does this on a line by line basis, showing only half the original lines (think of these as NOT dotted) to each eye, so it is truly half resolution.

Assumptions and arguments about resolution aside, many swear passive is just fine. The glasses are cheaper, so it also appeals to bargain hunters and people with large audiences (kids).

Passive owners will recommend passive, and active owners will recommend active. Each works best for THEIR particular priority. Weigh your own priorities, and decide for yourself.

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
 

Last edited by Augerhandle; Today at 03:07 PM.
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post #13 of 13 Unread Today, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ostrogoth View Post
There's some info from 2010 here also:
http://hdguru.com/3d-hdtv-and-hdmi-explained/1336/
That article is wrong concening DLP, and assumes 960 x 1080 resolution per eye. It is not 960 x 1080 pixels, let alone 960 x 1080 lines.

It is actually 960 distinct column pairs and 540 distinct row pairs of diamonds, which overlap to form pixels. It is technically still 1920 by 1080 lines of resolution per eye due to the diamond shaped mirrors overlapping into all of the lines. See the link in my signature for more detail.

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Last edited by Augerhandle; Today at 03:15 PM.
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