Need help making 3D DLP-Link work on Optoma HD66 projector - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 09-14-2012, 12:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi AVS-ers. I decided to ask you after two days of searching and experimentation.

Sony BDV-E570 Blu-ray Player (source, audio) is connected via new category 2 HDMI cable to Optoma HD66 projector (video only). I have new DLP-Link active shutter glasses with 120Hz and new 144Hz capability. For content, I have a) YouTube 1080p clips in 3D side-by-side (example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmV4ieSpk4k), and b) I downloaded LG 3D TV demo AVI that I can play from my USB drive plugged into Sony player.

When I play 3D side-by-side content to projector, I see the side-by-side image on the wall. Video is playing in 1080p and 60Hz. It is confirmed by player and by projector independently, so I am sure about these numbers.

It seems I cannot make projector turn on the DLP-Link 3D mode, which will convert the side-by-side image into alternating properly stretched frames. If I go to projector settings, the 3D setting is set to "Off" and it is grayed out so I cannot change it.

What is the issue? I have a suspicion that projector is expecting a 120Hz signal before it enables 3D, and it is getting only 60Hz. If so, then it is unclear to me how to make Sony BR BDV-E570 player transmit my digital content in 120Hz mode, since there is no setting for Hz. I do not even find specs to confirm if Sony player is capable to do so.

Do you have ideas for me to explore?


EDIT: I just found a footnote in Optoma HD66 user manual ""3D" is supported at 1280x720 resolution maximum." I changed Sony BR to always feed 720p. Restarted everything just in case after change. Now I can confirm on Sony and on Optoma that image is 720p 60Hz. But in projector setup the 3D is still "Off" and grayed out.
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post #2 of 12 Old 09-14-2012, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is Optoma HD66 user manual, and the 3D setting that I cannot turn ON is shown on page 28.
http://optomausa.com/webresources/files/support/e8a6c3d0f4734e09990fde002a232750.pdf
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post #3 of 12 Old 09-16-2012, 11:17 PM
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I also own an Optoma HD66 and am quite happy with it, although I admit that I'd love to upgrade to a 1080P 3D projector. (Maybe next year.)

Your problem is that the HD66 is not HDMI 1.4 compliant, i.e. it is 1.3 compliant or "3D-Ready" and does not directly recognize the standardized output formats of 3D Blu-ray players (such as side-by-side or frame-packing). You must connect your 3D Blu-ray player to a converter that takes the HDMI 1.4 output from the player and downconverts it to a 720P HDMI 1.3 frame sequential signal. An example of such a converter is the Optoma 3D-XL, which is the converter that I use.

There are other converters that are available at a lower price than the 3D-XL. The Viewsonic 3D HD Video Processor (VP3D1) is slightly less expensive and its internals are probably the same as the 3D-XL. I do not recommend other, less expensive converters (such as the Monoprice 3D Creator and its imitators) since they require side-by-side format which has half the horizontal resolution of the frame-packed format. The Optoma and Viewsonic converters accept either side-by-side (cable or satellite) or frame-packed (Blu-ray 3D) format.

Be sure to set your 3D Blu-ray player output to 1080P since that is the signal that the converter is designed to recognize and downconvert. The 3D converter will not pass through a 720P signal. When the HD66 gets the appropriate 720P frame sequential input signal that is output from the converter, its grayed-out 3D options will become accessible.
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post #4 of 12 Old 09-17-2012, 11:10 AM - Thread Starter
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fxrh, thank you for the breakdown. I further researched 3D-XL and the mis-leading "3D-ready" aspect of HD66. I now understand the situation with my setup. I am a bit disappointed in the HD66 capability.

Could you extend your advice? I will not be buying 3D-XL or another converter, since I am thinking of upgrading from Optoma in near future. My question is... If not BR player as a source, can I use a computer or some other media player to feed digital content to Optoma HD66 and use DLP-Link? What can mimic the output of 3D-XL converter assuming I do not have to play BR disks. I want to play digital files only.
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post #5 of 12 Old 09-17-2012, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilyae View Post

Could you extend your advice? I will not be buying 3D-XL or another converter, since I am thinking of upgrading from Optoma in near future. My question is... If not BR player as a source, can I use a computer or some other media player to feed digital content to Optoma HD66 and use DLP-Link? What can mimic the output of 3D-XL converter assuming I do not have to play BR disks. I want to play digital files only.

You should be able to use a home theater PC as a source for HDMI 1.3 content if it has an nVidia video card that supports 3D with its associated nVidia 3D Vision software. However, I'll warn you that such a setup would be costly (more costly than a converter box) and difficult to configure. For example, even if you intend to use DLP-Link only, you'll be forced to get an nVidia IR emitter -- the video card won't output a 3D signal without an emitter, even if you don't use that emitter for 3D (I don't). I have spent well over 100 hours configuring my home theater PC to support 3D (the only reason I have one). To be fair, that 100 hours has been spread out over two years and three software upgrades.

I built a home theater PC for maximal quality of 2D-to-3D conversion for DVDs and Blu-rays (currently using Cyberlink PowerDVD 12 software). I also have a Samsung 3D Blu-ray player which does 2D-to-3D conversion of DVDs and Blu-rays -- it's not nearly as impressive a conversion as I can get with the Cyberlink software, but it's decent (and hassle-free).

My home theater PC and my Samsung player output an HDMI 1.4a compliant signal to my 3D-XL converter box for output to my projector. In other words, my configuration differs from the configuration you seek in that I am set up for 1.4a output from two different sources, whereas you want 1.3 output via a single source, namely, a PC with the nVidia card.

My advice to you is: 1) If you're a techie, consider going the PC route, but be aware of the likely headaches awaiting you. 2) If you want to take a less painful route, either get a converter box (for around $200) or sell your Optoma HD66 for an HD33 or some other HDMI 1.4a-compliant projector.
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post #6 of 12 Old 09-17-2012, 08:30 PM
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nvidia can be used with a simple software hack. amd can be used for free. if you don;t mind kludging around with htpc.. its the cheapest way to get 3d bluray to a 3d "ready" projector, especially if you alreay have compatible hardware.
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post #7 of 12 Old 09-21-2012, 12:32 AM
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Hi fxrh -

I am looking at the Optoma HD66 for my modest HT - a white screen on the wall, a coffee table ( for now), and a couple of sofas.As you mentioned upgrading - maybe I should pass up the HD66 for something newer but not much pricier. What are you looking onto as an upgrade from the HD66? I just bought the VP3D1 converter and 3DTV dlp-link pair of glasses for my Qumi2. But I am unhappy with the small screen size we use in low ambient light and I know 3D requires more lumens. My last full size projector was a Benq mp610 - nice and bright, but lamps crashed easily with voltage swings in my town (Brazil). The lamps died even with a UPS - but it burnt caps as well, so not going that route next time. Thanks in advance.

Qumi2,
DIY screen,
Samsung E5500 3D BD player,
ViewSonic VP3D1 3D adapter,
3DTV Corp glasses (D+D3G Hi-Shock DLP-Pro),
old Philips 5.1 HT system for sound.
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post #8 of 12 Old 09-21-2012, 10:05 AM
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I think the best upgrade for the budget-conscious would be the Acer H9500BD. There's a lengthy thread on this forum singing its praises, but at $1500 (when discounted) it's still roughly twice the cost of the HD66 plus a converter box. As I mentioned earlier, I'm happy with the HD66 for now and will hold off (now that I'm retired with little disposable income) until the Acer gets closer to $1000 or so (probably a good long wait).

When you consider the costs of flat-screen 3D HDTVs, your current Optoma/converter box combination is a terrific bargain. I have about 50 3D Blu-rays and just love watching 'em.
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post #9 of 12 Old 09-21-2012, 10:15 AM
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-22-2012, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is an update form me since I started this post:

Following good advice above, I looked at converter boxes versus new hardware. I came across and ordered, and yesterday received Vivitek D512-3D ($419) projector. I chose this model due to a) having highest reviews on Amazon of all Vivitek projectors, b) 3D capabilities without converters, c) 2D to 3D, d) very economical price for my low budget HT setup, e) Vivtek US office being located in the city where I live (accidental). But it does have a rather low-level SVGA (maybe now I wish I went one level higher to XGA? Maybe I will.). First, I compared it side-by-side with my Optoma HD66 viewing DVD menus and various pictures. Small difference I could live with. The new Vivitek out of box produced darker blacks. I figured I can tune it further when time permits.

I tried 2D to 3D feature. This is the first time in weeks I was able to test-drive my glasses. 2D to 3D was descent, I could see 3D if I told myself that I was watching 3D. I do not know yet if I'll be using this feature, but I will try next time I watch some action movie.

I was quite amazed then I switched to 3D content available form my Sony BR streaming. I have no 3D disks yet. Projector automatically switched to 3D mode, and X-Games action looked impressive. My wife tried watching it, and said WOW quite a few times.

I was unable to stream a 1080p side-by-side AVI file (my main goal). Projector would not allow me to turn on the 3D feature. Either the AVI/MKV file does not contain 120Hz, or my Sony player cannot send 120Hz signal from USB-connected media. (If you have ideas about this, please let me know how to set it up???)

For my occasional use, I will be selling Optoma HD66 and staying with Vivitek. I suspect I will be watching more 2D movies, and trying 3D when media permits.
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post #11 of 12 Old 01-20-2013, 09:14 PM
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I just purchased a Pro350w off of Slickdealz after having my HD70 quit on me so i'm going to be one of probably many people asking the same question.

I have a Pro350w now, which is the same thing as an HD66, I have an HTPC and can get 3D movies from the internet, what do I need in the way of software and glasses to make it all work.

Can I buy the Monoprice DLPLink glasses? I currently use XBMC and Media Player Classic Home Cinema, do I need to switch to something else?

Also, in the Slim profile video card world, is AMD or nVidia preferable? I'm not really interested in overpaying for nVidia glasses, i'd rather buy cheap generic DLP-Link ones.
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post #12 of 12 Old 01-20-2013, 10:08 PM
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I have an Onkyo SR-606 receiver which is not 3D compatible, so I know that i'm going to have to bypass my receiver at least for the HTPC, but what about DirecTV?

Lets suppose that I dont care about the "Lossless" audio part of the argument, and just want to have a convenient way to operate my HTPC and DirecTV in 3D mode. Can I just run those two sources through a 3D compatible HDMI splitter on the way to my Projector and use Optical/Coax for audio to my A/V receiver?

Is it possible that my SR-606 may be able to pass 720p 3D since i'm going to be using an AMD 6570 video card and will be able to "Force" the matter? Guess there's only one way to find out.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=6259&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=6415&seq=1&format=2
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