Samsung 7100 and SBS - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 5 Old 11-04-2012, 01:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Just got a Samsung UN46ES7100F 3D TV. It is Active or OU. I am able to play OU movies fine. Comcast is my ISP but I am not getting anything but Internet from them. I do not have a Blue Ray player. I can play digital (Active) movies from my computer using AllShare Play with no problems but I put everything on a memory stick to simplify troubleshooting.

The only Passive (SBS) movie I have access to is an Avatar digital download that comes with a all-in-one set for $30. DVD, 3D, digital download. If I can't put it on a storage device I have no interest in owning it.
I have three other OU movies stored on the same USB stick that work fine. Can't seem to find a OU version of Avatar. I wear glasses.

Turn on TV, use AllShare Play to browse to USB stick and start the movie. Turn on glasses. TV says linked up. Looking at computer monitor I can see flicker that demonstrated glasses are working.
Two clear pictures appear side-by-side (as expected). Turn on 3D with the remote and select SBS, 2 pictures becomes one (as expected). I now see 2 images slightly offset both with and without the 3D glasses. As movie plays the areas that you would expect to be with depth (3D) are very fuzzy.

Tried changing 3D setting to Active, Now get 4 side-by side images. Change back to Passive.

I cannot find any settings that allow me to change things like aspect ratio, default 3D settings, or anything else that might have the ability to affect this problem.

Anyone know of a method/fix to be able to play Passive content on this TV? Maybe get some passive 3D glasses? Should I take it back and get a Passive only TV?

Thanks for your input.

Ralph
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post #2 of 5 Old 11-06-2012, 02:33 PM
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I think you are confusing some terms. Over and Under (OU) and Side By Side (SBS) are two formats that mostly non-blu-ray 3d movies are stored on your computer/memory stick in. Active and Passive refers to the method the glasses you wear use to make a watchable 3D image. If you have an Active 3D system you will most likely have active shutter LCD glasses needed to send the correct view to each eye. The TV powers an emitter which opens each eye in succession so that each eye gets the correct view. The glasses open and close each eye in sync with the emitter from the display device.

If you have a Passive 3D TV, the signal is polarized different for each eye and would use polarized glasses to view. Nothing moves in the polarized glasses which is why they are called "passive."

I don't really know anything about Allshare Play, but I believe you should be changing the settings between active and passive dependent on what format your TV uses to display a 3D image.
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post #3 of 5 Old 11-07-2012, 03:46 PM
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Billqs is correct a signal from any source is neither active or passive. The TV is either active or passive and it is active or passive for all types of "compatible" 3D signals, not active or some and passive for others. It more likely your Side-by-side is not compatible in resoultion or frame rate with the TV's 3D processor.
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post #4 of 5 Old 11-08-2012, 10:11 AM
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Page 274 of the user manual:
Quote:
3D Mode
Select the 3D input format.

If you want to experience the 3D
effect fully, put the 3D Active Glasses
on first, and then select the 3D Mode
from the list below that provides the
best 3D viewing experience.

Of Off : Turns the 3D function off.
*Icon of 2D->3D*: Changes a 2D image to 3D.
*Icon of over/under*: Displays two images next to each
other.
*Icon of left/right*: Displays one image above another.

Looks like your set supports L/R, T/B, and Frame Packed 3D input formats.
Quote:
To watch in 3D, you must wear 3D
Active Glasses and turn the glasses on
by pressing the power button.
1. Go to the 3D screen. (Picture → 3D)
2. Select the 3D Mode. The 3D Mode
screen appears.
3. Select the 3D Mode option for the
image you want to view. The screen
goes blank for a moment, and then
reappears in the 3D mode you
selected.
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post #5 of 5 Old 11-09-2012, 01:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone. Start with my obvious lack of knowledge then add in the many (often competing) standards, options, different connectors/cables, computers, smart TV's, and everything else and I was overwhelmed. This is how I tied everything together in a very flexible package.

I went with PowerDVD 12 from Cyberlink. Effectively "threw money" at the problem.

I wanted to run my Asus monitor at 1440 and the Samsung TV at 1920 but the resolution and primary monitors would keep changing when I would drag the PowerDVD display from the monitor to the TV (using extended displays rather than clone). It became too much of a hassle changing back to the settings I want so now I am using Clone mode (at 1920 resolution) so everything appears exactly the same on both the computer and TV. When I want to watch a show I turn on the TV, get PowerDVD going, turn on 3D (or 2D to 3D), turn off the monitor and sit back. Shows everything I want and only takes seconds.

One of the reasons I am so adamant about using the computer to display everything is so I have a progress bar that I can click on with the mouse to instantly jump to any spot in the show. You just can't do that using the clumsy, linear VCR type controls that come with a "smart" TV.
I am just beginning to explore the extra capabilities that the CyberLink package give me vs being forced into the highly restrictive menu system of a TV, even if it is "smart". I mean really, who is going to watch YouTube or surf the web on a TV? With my setup it's a snap.

I wanted a flexible USB storage system, and to be able to access the storage device with both the computer (to add/delete items) and the TV. Both are located right next to each other so doing this over a distance was not a consideration.
USB ports are always hidden away on the back of both the computer and TV and I did not want the hassle of frequently reaching around, in dark areas, fumbling with connectors trying to get them aligned and inserted whenever I wanted to add a movie.

This actually turned out to be the easiest problem to solve. I got an A/B USB switch to tie the TV and computer together and a powered hard drive enclosure, slapped a 2 TB hard drive in, partition, format, ready.
With one press of the A/B switch the drive can be accessed by either the TV or the computer. Since USB is hot swap friendly neither the computer or TV are bothered by the USB drive showing up or going away "on the fly".
The kids (and dad) can easily switch the USB drive to TV access without needing access to the computer. If you are familiar with the horrid (and slow) menu system of a smart TV trying to drill down to a network shared drive you will appreciate the simplicity and quickness of simply choosing a USB drive over a computer share.
When the USB drive is connected to the computer your entire library or music/movies/TV shows are available to everyone on your home network.
You might also appreciate that this setup is completely portable for LAN parties or family reunions (huge collection of children movies and cartoons).

3D TV $1500 (no 3D removes $1000)
Blue Ray burner for computer $ 60
A/B USB switch $ 20
USB Hard Drive enclosure $ 28
SATA 3 hard drive $ 109
Cyberlink software $ 65
And a computer. Any older desktop system will most likely be adequate.
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