Any thoughts or limitations I may be missing with this unit? do I have to get a special hdmi cable or is my hd 66 incompatible with 1.4 cables...its my understanding they are the same just thicker gauge wires? I believe mine is 26 or 24 gauge. I plan on using a panny bdt210 for bluray and upconverting both these and cable if possible depending on content.
heres a link with more info.
For $100 they appear to have more options than the monoprice unit and support 120hz output at 720p... I have tracked mine and it should arrive either today or tomorrow... I already received two of the four pairs of shutter glasses... won an auction for two pair for $21 shipped which I couldnt pass up and have a couple pair of the newer Sainsonics coming from china. also purchased A 35ft 1.4 24awg hdmi cable since mine wont pass 120hz thru my pc and is about 10 years old now (dvi-hdmi) I plan on mounting the converter box near the projector so the new cable may not be needed but I have issues with 1080p at 60hz as well ever since I went from the hd 70 to my old HD65 and now HD66... I think the hdmi ports are somehow weaker because I never had and sparkly or dropout issues with my HD70...
fyi is very small but heavy for its size... only about 3x5
The overall picture brightness is effected enough to were I'd say you need a truly dark room for viewing.
The unit is very compact and well built it seems. the remote surprisingly works very well. my Sony reciever has no issues playing the HD audio and only passing the video to the HD66 and this is with my 10year old 35ft ebay 26awg dvi to hdmi cable. (I'm glade I didnt spend the extra $100 on the panny BDT310 with dual hdmi output. all together with the cost of the 3d bluray player, receiver, 3D converter unit and four pairs of shudder glasses I'm looking at just under $400 bucks for the 3d upgrade. and I got a better sounding 7.1 receiver and better performing bluray player to boot.... I'm a happy camper.
However this device was limited to outputting 720p @120hz.... with 1080p it kept dropping the signal which I was expecting since that isnt supported by it in 3d mode.
I think I'm going to use the converter and dlp -link system for an outdoor theater setup at a campground I belong too...the kids should love it there..
meanwhile I will upgrade to the estar RF setup for the hd131xe for the better contrast without the white flashes.
interesting enought the power supply and the remote that came with this unit were made by the same companies as the darbee darlets remote and power supply that I have...I guess thats a good thing for this unit because the quality isnt bad at all but not so great in another respect because both are made in china and the darbee has a huge made in the usa logo on it..... I guess thats just for that part of the unit..
Can i ask what software and what settings you were using with this?
I have just got one for my HD65, im using it with a Nvidia 660GTX via HDMI the projector is getting the signal fine using PowerDVD12 but for some reason my glasses (all 4 of them) are not syncing with the screen regardless of what settings i use to get the 3D effect.
Never mind, box works fine, dab nab it lol, just figure out what the issue is. anyway for those who wish to know.
HD65 projector settings
Projector 3D DLP-Link enabled.
Sync invert off.
Im using the HD75 inf for the projector drivers, this is so the PC recognizes the HD65 as being able to accept a 120mhz signal, something optoma seemed to of skipped.
Power DVD12 settings. 3D button pressed (so its just the 3D logo, rather than a 3D in a box) In the cog setting "general tab" swap eye view, is on left channel, Source format, is set to auto, "Display device" is also set to Auto, but check this setting as sometimes it likes to switch to red / blue glasses, you can manually set it to its correct option for the HD65 which is 720p @60mhz (120mhz split between both eyes is 60mhz)
The 3D is amazing from this little box of tricks
The v3d-p settings.
HSBS to DLP button pressed, it squashes powerdvd player so both halves are ontop of each other so looks like a scrambled mess, but does work fine.
Have fun guys.
Oh and the issue? cheap chinese DLP-link glasses lol they turn on, only when im looking at the kitchen strip light doh! which means i gotta turn them on looking at a bulb then run to the living-room before they auto turn off with no signal lol
they have an on button, but for some reason the shutters dont activate unless im looking at the light in the kitchen, could be a dodgy wire in them so when you tilt your head at the light it turns on, but ive tried that and still doesnt work, needs the light from the kitchen to "activate" them
If you had a 3D compatible AMD card (HD 5xxx and up), or an Nvision emitter (there used to be a software emulator out there in the 'nets), you can skip the converter and feed the projector a 120Hz frame-sequential directly, as I do with my GT720.