Optoma BG-BC100B, 3D-RF Emitter Compatable glasses? - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 50 Old 10-23-2013, 06:39 PM
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I too have ordered a estar combo to use with my older Optoma glassess but while the emmitter works well the glassess wont come on at all ,could the be defective or is there something besides just pushing the button to get them on??? Couldn't get the optoma emittere to stay "flipped" sync wise,estar stays fine but I also couldn't get the estar software to load on the emmitters,vip software loaded fine back to the Optoma emitter
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post #32 of 50 Old 10-23-2013, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by hardvark View Post

I too have ordered a estar combo to use with my older Optoma glassess but while the emmitter works well the glassess wont come on at all ,could the be defective or is there something besides just pushing the button to get them on??? Couldn't get the optoma emittere to stay "flipped" sync wise,estar stays fine but I also couldn't get the estar software to load on the emmitters,vip software loaded fine back to the Optoma emitter

Sorry you are having so much trouble. Taking this one piece at a time....

It sound like you have at least one working emitter, so that's not broken, let's not fix it. Correct me if you don't have at least one emitter that can hold five bars. No signal = nothing for the glasses to do = they look dead, Jim.

About the dead glasses... let them charge for at least 15 minutes and try again. You can even watch them while they are still charging.

There's a first for everything and - Murphy's Law - it happen to you - but everything returned as defective so far has been either working, obviously smashed, or just had a completely empty battery and was fine after 15 minutes of charging.

Here's another possible failure mode - in the emitter setup process your glasses have been paired to another emitter, or an emitter that has since been upgraded. An upgrade preserves the IEEE ID but gives the emitter a new Zigbee ID - it is no longer the emitter those glasses married and the glasses need to be returned to factory defaults, which makes them, uh, back on the market and eligible to work with any emitter or get married again.

To restore a pair of glasses to factory defaults, start with the glasses turned off.
 Press and hold down the button
 The LED will go on solid after 1 second; keep holding down the button
 After about 10 more seconds the LED will start pulsing indicating that the glasses are ready to pair; keep holding down the button.
 After about 20 more seconds the LED will start blinking rapidly. Release the button now. The glasses will restore the factory default settings and firmware. This can take several seconds. After the process is complete, the glasses will resume normal operation.
If you do not release the button within 20 seconds after the LED begins rapidly blinking, the glasses will power off.

It's easier than it sounds written out step-by-step. This is from page 5 of the manual here:
http://www.estaramerica.com/assets/esa-bc6000_user-s_guide.pdf

Also note that if you are mixing old glasses and a new emitter, (it sounds like you are not but you may have some older glasses) then after a factory reset the glasses are rolled back to their factory firmware, so they may need some time (almost a minute) after startup to get an over-the-air firmware upgrade from the emitter. Pro Tip: The OTA upgrade takes longer if the emitter is also sending out a 3D signal.

I hope that helps.

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post #33 of 50 Old 10-23-2013, 08:20 PM
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Yes haven't tried to upgrade the estar emitter, just the Optoma and a Monster one I have. The glasses give a blue led when charging but once unhooked they won't give a light at all when the button is pushed
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post #34 of 50 Old 11-04-2013, 05:06 PM
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I received a replacement set of the estar glassess and they work VERY well !!:DThey were very responsive and even checked them out before shipping to make sure the second set worked well before they were sent! I am extremlly pleased with them and the service I recieved
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post #35 of 50 Old 11-16-2013, 06:39 PM
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I bought the most recent version of the estar products and I can't seem to fix the terrible ghosting / crosstalk.

Anyone having this issue? And I have the latest firmware as well.

I have a Mitsubishi HC8000D.

EDIT: Well, the problem is strongly accentuated by PowerDVD13. I used Stereoscopic Player and it is definitely reduced. Still slightly noticeable though.

Thanks!
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post #36 of 50 Old 11-17-2013, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoryW View Post

I bought the most recent version of the estar products and I can't seem to fix the terrible ghosting / crosstalk.

Anyone having this issue? And I have the latest firmware as well.

I have a Mitsubishi HC8000D.

EDIT: Well, the problem is strongly accentuated by PowerDVD13. I used Stereoscopic Player and it is definitely reduced. Still slightly noticeable though.

Here are a few guesses at what the problem might be:

1. Delay settings in the emitter are wrong. Finding the right ones can be tricky. Post #20 in this thread covers this topic as it relates to a Mitsu TV.

2. This Mitsu projector uses different delay settings than their TVs and we have to find the new settings.

3. Complete format mismatch. If your source is vertical line interleaved and your display is decoding it as horizontal line interleaved, well, that problem would trump everything else.

4. PowerDVD --> you are using a PC --> whole new set of problems that are not possible with a BRD player. Likely example: Some Mitsu displays really like checkerboard 3D. The FireGL 7700 on Win7, for example, when attached to PowerDVD and a Mitsu TV will send 3D checkerboard but OVERSCAN it, and with OVERSCAN on you are scaled out of the checkerboard pixels lining up and completely hozed. The OVERSCAN setting is a checkbox buried deep in the AMD setup utility.

I hope that helps.

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post #37 of 50 Old 11-17-2013, 10:17 PM
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Thank you so much.

I am indeed using the checkerboard 3d and I have the ATI setting perfect. Overscan set to 0%.

Format seems fine.

I see the problem on frame packed and SBS.

I used the settings here:
http://www.cine4home.de/tests/projektoren/Mitsubishi_HC7800/Brillen/HC7800%20Brillen.htm

And I've tweaked for hours but the above values seem to be the best I can get.

I'm about to send these Estars back to Amazon and try the Optoma. So frustrating.

Thanks!
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post #38 of 50 Old 11-18-2013, 04:02 AM
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Sorry you are having so much trouble. I promise that the Optoma emitter and glasses will behave the exact same way. The Optoma support for your Mitsu projector may be harder to find. Something else is wrong.

Let's try a few more things.

1. Can you tune it so that the ghosting is in only in one eye? (This means the lens in the other eye is broken -- can hard to notice depending in whether the dominant eye has the broken lens.)

2. Are you at an exact frequency and resolution specified in the manual? "29.97 Hz v 30 Hz." etc.

3. Does it work with a hardware BRD player or DirecTV box?

4. Have you tried pairing the glasses to the emitter? Is it possible you have a neighbor with an emitter and the glasses are pairing to the wrong emitter? This can look wrong in a variety of ways.

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post #39 of 50 Old 11-18-2013, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipSosie View Post

Sorry you are having so much trouble. I promise that the Optoma emitter and glasses will behave the exact same way. The Optoma support for your Mitsu projector may be harder to find. Something else is wrong.

Let's try a few more things.

1. Can you tune it so that the ghosting is in only in one eye? (This means the lens in the other eye is broken -- can hard to notice depending in whether the dominant eye has the broken lens.)

2. Are you at an exact frequency and resolution specified in the manual? "29.97 Hz v 30 Hz." etc.

3. Does it work with a hardware BRD player or DirecTV box?

4. Have you tried pairing the glasses to the emitter? Is it possible you have a neighbor with an emitter and the glasses are pairing to the wrong emitter? This can look wrong in a variety of ways.

1. No I cannot. And I tested another pair of glasses as I purchased extra.
2. I thought you are supposed to match the frequency of the source film? I am running at 24 Hz. I have the BC6000 glasses and their manual states:

100/120/144Hz (50/60/72Hz per eye)
Plus arbitrary frequencies from 50-240 Hz

Thoughts? Another issue is that all 3D software players that work properly (besides the ghosting) automatically change the refresh rate so I can't keep it at 60 Hz even if I need to.

3. Can't test this currently. Like I said everything looks incredible except for the crosstalk / ghosting. I also tried again dialing in the delay for the best image possible and color accuracy possible. But I'm left with terrible ghosting.

Thanks!
Cory
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post #40 of 50 Old 11-19-2013, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoryW View Post

2. I thought you are supposed to match the frequency of the source film? I am running at 24 Hz. I have the BC6000 glasses and their manual states:

100/120/144Hz (50/60/72Hz per eye)
Plus arbitrary frequencies from 50-240 Hz

Thoughts? Another issue is that all 3D software players that work properly (besides the ghosting) automatically change the refresh rate so I can't keep it at 60 Hz even if I need to.

3. Can't test this currently. Like I said everything looks incredible except for the crosstalk / ghosting. I also tried again dialing in the delay for the best image possible and color accuracy possible. But I'm left with terrible ghosting.

Cory, you can't match the 24 Hz of the source. If you tried to do that, with shutter glasses triggering each eye alternately, flicker would be unbearable and the picture would be unwatchable. Instead, any display that can accept a 24 Hz signal will multiply that to a higher frequency before sending it to the imaging part of the display. It's the case even in 2D.

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post #41 of 50 Old 11-19-2013, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post

Cory, you can't match the 24 Hz of the source. If you tried to do that, with shutter glasses triggering each eye alternately, flicker would be unbearable and the picture would be unwatchable. Instead, any display that can accept a 24 Hz signal will multiply that to a higher frequency before sending it to the imaging part of the display. It's the case even in 2D.

Yes of course. I forgot about that. I have my projector set to take it up to 120 Hz.

Still no solution to this ghosting issue? I don't want to return this kit and glasses but I'm all out of ideas.

Once again, the settings here produces the best possible image:
http://www.cine4home.de/tests/projektoren/Mitsubishi_HC7800/Brillen/HC7800%20Brillen.htm

Can the cable I hacked and put together cause issues? I have everything lined up perfectly as outlined in the above link. Just wondering if that could be an issue.

Thanks!
Cory
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post #42 of 50 Old 11-19-2013, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoryW View Post

Yes of course. I forgot about that. I have my projector set to take it up to 120 Hz.

Still no solution to this ghosting issue? I don't want to return this kit and glasses but I'm all out of ideas.

Once again, the settings here produces the best possible image:
http://www.cine4home.de/tests/projektoren/Mitsubishi_HC7800/Brillen/HC7800%20Brillen.htm

Can the cable I hacked and put together cause issues? I have everything lined up perfectly as outlined in the above link. Just wondering if that could be an issue.

The cable could very well be your issue. I was reading the PJ's manual online and noted that it has a 5-pin sync port, while the Bit Cauldron emitter uses 3 pins, and your link verified that. If you have an ohmmeter, go back and check for continuity between pin pairs. Also make sure you have no bridging or shorting between pins that aren't supposed to be connected..

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post #43 of 50 Old 11-21-2013, 07:30 AM
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Well, I've given up. I'm returning the products. Going to just spring for the stock emitter and glasses for the HC8000D. I am 100% confident that the ghosting cannot be fixed. My custom-made connector is flawless and perfectly soldered just as specified in the Cine4home tutorial. I just think it could be an HTPC issue or I am less tolerant of any ghosting effect. I did get it down to where it only shows on certain scenes, but it definitely shows quite frequently.

Thanks for all your help!

Thanks!
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post #44 of 50 Old 11-21-2013, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoryW View Post

Well, I've given up. I'm returning the products. Going to just spring for the stock emitter and glasses for the HC8000D. I am 100% confident that the ghosting cannot be fixed. My custom-made connector is flawless and perfectly soldered just as specified in the Cine4home tutorial. I just think it could be an HTPC issue or I am less tolerant of any ghosting effect. I did get it down to where it only shows on certain scenes, but it definitely shows quite frequently.

Thanks for all your help!

Sorry to hear that. Please let us know how it goes with the Mits emitter and glasses when you get them. If you still have ghosting, then you'll have to troubleshoot your source.

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post #45 of 50 Old 11-21-2013, 09:08 PM
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Oh my goodness, can't believe I never considered reducing the duty cycle. This super useful post fixed the problem!!
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1379900/owners-thread-for-mitsubishi-hc7800/300#post_23979772

I just got so hung up on duty cycle... wow. It looks perfect with no ghosting at all!

Thanks!
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post #46 of 50 Old 11-24-2013, 09:18 AM
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Guys, I'm new to the projector world, and I just purchased an Optoma HD131Xe, which I still haven't received ..

Can someone please summarize for me regarding which emitter and glasses I need to get for the best value ?

I see the Optoma branded emitter is for $39.95, the EStar 3D Starter Kit is for $64, and a single Estar 3D eyewear is for $54 ... So which option gives the better performance here ?

Also, are these emitters compatible with the Samsung SSG-5100GB 3D Glasses ? Because there much cheaper !
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post #47 of 50 Old 11-24-2013, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahmadka View Post

Guys, I'm new to the projector world, and I just purchased an Optoma HD131Xe, which I still haven't received ..

Can someone please summarize for me regarding which emitter and glasses I need to get for the best value ?

I see the Optoma branded emitter is for $39.95, the EStar 3D Starter Kit is for $64, and a single Estar 3D eyewear is for $54 ... So which option gives the better performance here ?

Also, are these emitters compatible with the Samsung SSG-5100GB 3D Glasses ? Because there much cheaper !

The Optoma emitter is just that: an emitter ONLY. You'd still need glasses. The EStar starter kit is the emitter (same as Optoma's) and 1 pair of glasses. And the EStar eyewear is glasses-only. You still would need an emitter.

The Optoma/EStar gear is NOT compatible with the Samsung glasses. Although they are both listed as RF, the Optoma/EStar set use a wireless system known as Zigbee, while the Samsungs use Bluetooth.

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post #48 of 50 Old 11-24-2013, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post

The Optoma emitter is just that: an emitter ONLY. You'd still need glasses. The EStar starter kit is the emitter (same as Optoma's) and 1 pair of glasses. And the EStar eyewear is glasses-only. You still would need an emitter.

The Optoma/EStar gear is NOT compatible with the Samsung glasses. Although they are both listed as RF, the Optoma/EStar set use a wireless system known as Zigbee, while the Samsungs use Bluetooth.

Okay, thanks for clarifying .. Between the Optoma and EStar emitters, which is better ? I ask because previously in this thread you guys were discussing things like version numbers, sync issues (having to press the power button everytime it goes out of sync), etc ... So which emitter is the best currently available ? I don't want to face that manual sync/resync issue because from what I read, it seems to be annoying ..

Also, are there any alternative cheaper glasses which can also work with the Optoma HD131Xe ?

I asked about the Samsung SSG-5100GB because I'll probably get a bunch of those to go with my JVC RS-46 ..
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post #49 of 50 Old 11-25-2013, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahmadka View Post

Okay, thanks for clarifying .. Between the Optoma and EStar emitters, which is better ? I ask because previously in this thread you guys were discussing things like version numbers, sync issues (having to press the power button everytime it goes out of sync), etc ... So which emitter is the best currently available ? I don't want to face that manual sync/resync issue because from what I read, it seems to be annoying ..

Also, are there any alternative cheaper glasses which can also work with the Optoma HD131Xe ?

I asked about the Samsung SSG-5100GB because I'll probably get a bunch of those to go with my JVC RS-46 ..

If I were starting out, I'd go with the EStar. For one thing, the Optomas and EStars come from the same original design company, Bit Cauldron. There's likely no real difference In their basic performance. The firmware differences essentially are details in how the newer glasses use their power button. EStar uses the button as an on/off switch, while VIP, another company that sells these glasses and emitters, uses the power button to do quick polarity changes. I haven't used the newer Optomas, so I can't speak to their detail differences.

A real plus to the EStars, IMHO, is that Philip Sosie from EStar is a member here and has been active in assisting people who have questions.

Sorry, but I have no experience with other types of 3D glasses.

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post #50 of 50 Old 02-18-2014, 07:53 PM
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I just got three sets of Estar rf glasses paired with an Optoma HD131xe. For the most part they work great, my only gripe is that it has a slight yellowish tint that messes up the colors, I mostly see this during daylight scenes, I can't get white to look purely white. It always has a yellowish haze. With other 3d blurays that are mostly set at night such as Pacific Rim it looks gorgeous. Is there a fix for this? I'm using 3d blurays on a bluray player.
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