Samsung HW-C450 / HW-C451 "AudioBars" - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 205 Old 08-10-2010, 02:24 PM
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I just got one of these HW-451 soundbars with a broken capacitor. I need to replace it. Here is a photo:
http://www.n-mod.com/ebay/DCIM/P8105903.JPG
They are both the same. Is it 330uF. I am not sure what else I can get from it. I would prefer to order from mouser. Does anybody know what one on that site would work?
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post #62 of 205 Old 08-10-2010, 05:38 PM
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Alright well I am thinking of buying these:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...-EEE-HAJ331UAP

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...UUR2A3R3MCL1GS

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...ey555-RVO-6V33

Does anybody know which ones are right if any? I really need these quickly.

Thanks
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post #63 of 205 Old 08-10-2010, 07:32 PM
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Hey n-mod or anybody else but you seem pretty smart if you're talking about fixing capacitors and stuff I have the C-450 and I have my WDTV live and DVR hooked up to my TV through Optical cables is there anyway I can hook my XBOX Elite up to it? There are only 2 optical plugins on the back of the soundbar am I forced to unplug my WDTV Live's optical cable and plug it in to my XBOX every time or is there an easier way?

thanks, I am obviously an av noob.


Also cannot get it to power down and stay off with the WDTV Live, it keeps turning itself back on even when the WDTV Live is off.
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post #64 of 205 Old 08-11-2010, 07:42 PM
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If you have a newer TV it should have a optical out on the back that you can connect into. That way you can have all your sound going into your TV and your TV will output it through one optical channel. I am pretty sure that should work.
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post #65 of 205 Old 08-11-2010, 09:04 PM
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but the tv will only pass-thru audio in 2.1 format
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post #66 of 205 Old 08-11-2010, 09:07 PM
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Are you sure about that? Also isn't the soundbar only 2.1 anyway? I am not really sure I just got one of these and haven't looked into the specs yet.
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post #67 of 205 Old 08-11-2010, 09:09 PM
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I just checked samsung's website Here and it says 2.1 sound system.
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post #68 of 205 Old 08-12-2010, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n-mod View Post

If you have a newer TV it should have a optical out on the back that you can connect into. That way you can have all your sound going into your TV and your TV will output it through one optical channel. I am pretty sure that should work.

But I believe others have said that connecting directly to a DVR or to your other electronic device produces better sound quality than connecting it just to your TV.
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post #69 of 205 Old 08-12-2010, 07:11 AM
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Oh alright well you should probably listen to them. I am not that smart at all this audio stuff.
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post #70 of 205 Old 08-12-2010, 10:08 AM
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I am not able to use the TV Remote (Comcast).....had to purchase a Universal remote. On my Samsung LCD, if you turn off the internal speakers, the volume control is disabled. Frustrating......but no other option.

I have a Harmony remote that now controls everything......
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post #71 of 205 Old 08-12-2010, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fitz0527 View Post

But I believe others have said that connecting directly to a DVR or to your other electronic device produces better sound quality than connecting it just to your TV.

The soundbar is 2.1 and your TV can only output 2.1 from sources connected digitally (HDMI) due to DRM issues.

I have not owned or tried the Samsung, but have owned three other soundbars (Yamaha / Sony / Vizio). I tested each with direct feeds from the TV as well as direct feeds from DVD and Blu-Ray players. My ears are 59 years old and certainly not golden these days if they ever were. But neither I, nor my wife, nor my son (25) nor his wife could hear any differences that were verifiable when switching between the two for any of the soundbars.

However, if you look at the JVC-BA1 thread, Daveyo says that there a vast difference when feeding the JVC bitstream (5.1) audio direct over the 2.1 coming when all of his components are connected through the TV.

If you can adjust the input (or output) levels to match and can hear a true difference, I say go with connecting the Blu-Ray direct. Otherwise, make your life less complicated and allow your television to be your video/audio switcher.

David Freeman
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post #72 of 205 Old 08-12-2010, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mengle View Post

I am not able to use the TV Remote (Comcast).....had to purchase a Universal remote. On my Samsung LCD, if you turn off the internal speakers, the volume control is disabled. Frustrating......but no other option.

I have a Harmony remote that now controls everything......

The longer you own and use the Harmony, the more you will wonder how you ever lived without it. I have been using one for four years and I think my wife would get rid of me before I took her harmony away.

David Freeman
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post #73 of 205 Old 08-12-2010, 07:14 PM
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I have the Samsung HW-C450 connected via an optical cable to a Samsung 6300 LED/LCD with the Auto Power Link function turned on.

I noticed a few posters state that their soundbars power on and power off with their TV's. Although my soundbar powers on with the TV, it does not power off with it. I have read through the manual and it only states that the soundbar is automatically turned on when the power of a TV or any device connected to it with the optical cable is powered on.

The only situation that the soundbar powers off, and it's stated in the manual, is when the TV or other device is (turned) off and there is no digital input, the soundbar is powered off after 20 minutes. This to me is more of a failsafe for the soundbar rather than a simultaneous function. Otherwise, I need to manually power off the soundbar.

If someone's soundbar powers off simultaneously with their TV, please explain how it's done.

On another function, can someone expound on the DRC function for me? I understand the concept but the manual is lacking in explaining what appropriate settings to use, i.e., for low volume at night. I have played around with the MIN, STANDARD, and MAX settings, but I can't discern any difference from one setting to the other.

Thanks
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post #74 of 205 Old 08-13-2010, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fitz0527 View Post

But I believe others have said that connecting directly to a DVR or to your other electronic device produces better sound quality than connecting it just to your TV.

There's a reason for that.

This soundbar accepts Dolby Digital and DTS bitstreams and processes them internally. As I understand it, it will not even attempt its "Virtual Surround" imaging otherwise. While the HW-C450 is physically a 2.1 system, when a DVR/BD player/console/whatever is connected via optical it can utilize all the information from a 5.1 stream. If you hook up said devices to a TV (via HDMI or otherwise) and route the sound from the TV to the soundbar, the audio gets flattened and the soundbar has relatively little to work with. I'd have to question the fidelity of most TV outputs as well.

If you look at the C450's display when a toslink device starts to push audio to it, it'll say either PCM, D.D, or DTS depending on the bitstream. D.D and DTS are generally not going to happen through a TV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandpd View Post

On another function, can someone expound on the DRC function for me? I understand the concept but the manual is lacking in explaining what appropriate settings to use, i.e., for low volume at night. I have played around with the MIN, STANDARD, and MAX settings, but I can't discern any difference from one setting to the other.

DRC stands for "Dynamic Range Control." I don't understand it fully myself so somebody please correct me if I'm wrong, but DRC is specific to Dolby. If you are listening to music and press that button, it is not going to make any difference as it only matters with Dolby Digital bitstreams. It essentially has the same purpose as "Smart Sound" but lets you pick between different dynamic range profiles set by the content creator. Though... I'm not 100% sure and I haven't messed around with it too much quite yet.

--

Now I just received this soundbar yesterday and haven't had much chance to mess around with it yet after setting it up, but there's a minor, yet really annoying issue with the PS3.

Let's get a few things out of the way, first:
-PS3 is connected to the TV via HDMI and to the HW-C450 via optical.
-PS3 settings are set to output video and audio to the respective hookups.
-"Key Tone" set to "On"
-Key Tone is the click sound the PS3 makes when you move between items and lists within the XMB.
-The issue in question only happens with optical going into the Samsung unit.

When I play music or hover over game icons, run blu-rays or just about anything else within the PS3, audio plays as one would expect. The only exception is that the Key Tone isn't heard.

Despite the setting being "on," the clicks aren't audible on the soundbar unless:
-Sound is already playing, like when hovering over a game with it's splash music playing. The Key Tone is audible when moving off of it.
-I'm scrolling very fast through a very long list to the point where it zips along into a constant sound.

Also, when moving between items within the PSN store, those clicks (different from the XMB's key tones) are actually audible, but I only hear the latter half of that sound on individual clicks. If I move quickly between items, the first click sounds very different (and muffled) from the rest.

After some searching, I found posts on the Playstation forums of people having similar issues with the PS3's optical out to their audio systems. It seems that some audio systems are too slow to respond to short sound bites. I noticed that the HW-C450 fades in and out with every new sound change in shift in audio settings. It's possible the Key Tone brief enough where it starts and ends before the Samsung unit even thinks about playing it.

I dug through just about every setting I could and I was only able to make it slightly better. I used the Video section in the XMB since I have a bunch of files there; scrolling top to bottom I was originally only able to hear a single click at the very end. My IPS panel on my TV doesn't noticeably lag so I'm able to get away with setting the soundbar's AV SYNC setting to 0ms. In that case I was able to hear a bunch of clicks right before the very end of that same Video list. The default AV SYNC was 50ms and I found it odd that setting it to 0ms not only changed the delay, but also how much sound gets cropped.

I bet if there was some way to remove the fade-in feature of this audio bar, I'd actually be able to hear the key tones. It may sound trite to many, but I like the key tones and I really do appreciate the feedback it gives while navigating.

I don't suppose any PS3 owners have got this working? Please tell me I missed something.
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post #75 of 205 Old 08-13-2010, 06:38 PM
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To fix the problem with not enough inputs you could always get a optical splitter or switch.
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post #76 of 205 Old 08-16-2010, 06:07 PM
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So I just heard back from Sony support about that silent key tone issue over optical and this is what they told me:

Quote:
Originally Posted by a Sony Rep View Post

The absence of audio when scrolling slowly through the XMB(TM) menu is happening because your Digital Receiver is set to pick the input and audio format automatically. It is taking longer to recognize the audio signal than the length of the sound itself. Manually set your receiver to its input and audio format and the issue will be resolved.

That actually makes complete sense. The problem is that this Sammy soundbar cannot be set manually. You can only manually choose the physical input, not the format an optical input is willing to accept. In other words, there's no way to fix this.

For simple setups, I figured a workaround. Route the TV's RCA output to the HW-C450's analog input, which I've done anyway for stereo sources, and enable the PS3's "Audio Multi-Output." 2ch PCM over analog sounds nearly identical in my case, but I'll switch it to optical for movies and games to allow the unit to process the D.D and/or DTS signals (as they do contain much more information).

Slightly annoying, but not any worse than manually selecting codecs, really. Still odd since my HTPC does not exhibit this problem at all.
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post #77 of 205 Old 08-16-2010, 07:41 PM
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Thanks Foxeh for your reply.

Yes, I know that DRC stands for "Dynamic Range Control." Your replies to fitz0527:

"If you look at the C450's display when a toslink device starts to push audio to it, it'll say either PCM, D.D, or DTS depending on the bitstream. D.D and DTS are generally not going to happen through a TV."

and to me:

"I don't understand it fully myself so somebody please correct me if I'm wrong, but DRC is specific to Dolby. If you are listening to music and press that button, it is not going to make any difference as it only matters with Dolby Digital bitstreams."

answer my question regarding the DRC settings and why I haven't been able to hear any difference. If what you said is accurate, then DRC is not really a viable function, if at all, when the audio is connected from the tv to the soundbar.
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post #78 of 205 Old 08-18-2010, 06:24 PM
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Yeah, I noticed that when I had the optical plugged directly into the TV it would say I believe PCM? But now that I have it hooked up to the Set Top Box (DVR) it says D.D. I guess that must mean Dolby Digital? I don't know that there is a noticeable difference in sound quality but at least the sound doesn't occasionally "skip" like it did before I think it would change the mode by itself before.
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post #79 of 205 Old 08-18-2010, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctteg View Post

I noticed when NOT in smart sound mode, there's a noticeable "skip" in the sound about every 15 or 30 minutes. Not sure if this happens every time the TV is on, but I do notice it sometimes. I have a Panasonic HDTV connected to the soundbar with the optical cable.

When I get the sound skip issue, the display briefly switches from "DIGI 1" to "PCM" before switching back.

Relatedly, I think, are definite sound volume jumps when the smart sound is turned on - when not going to commercial. It's really annoying - so much so, that after 30 minutes, I turn off smart sound. For example, I'll be watching the news, and the announcers voice will suddenly drop down a notch. Not completely, but enough to notice.

Anybody have these issues?

-> UPDATE: I hooked up the optical cable directly from the DirecTV box to the soundbar and this - so far - has solves the issue.

I believe this is the same issue I was referring to with the sound skipping and I resolved it by plugging the optical straight into the DVR.
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post #80 of 205 Old 08-26-2010, 06:24 PM
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warning, dumb questions ahead:

1) if the soundbar is connected to the TV via optical, the soundbar will turn on automatically if it sense the TV is turned on automatically. Does the TV remote control the volume too, or does that somehow only work on Samsung TVs and no other brands?

2) I have a FiOS DVR, PS3, and TV. Currently the DVR and PS3 are connected to TV via HDMI. Am I right in assuming it is best to connect the DVR/PS3 separately to the soundbar via optical, rather than just connecting the soundbar to the TV optical?

thanks
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post #81 of 205 Old 08-27-2010, 12:55 PM
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Not sure about question one.

Question two - try the PS3 hooked up directly to the soundbar after you have had it connected directly to the TV. If the sounds improve dramatically, leave it connected to the soundbar. If little or no difference, would leave the PS3 connected to the TV and only the optical out from TV to soundbar. Simplicity and less settings to fool with unless you are using a good univeral remote like the Logitech.

David Freeman
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post #82 of 205 Old 09-01-2010, 07:15 AM
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thanks

can someone who has this soundbar let me know where the IR receiver for the remote is located on the soundbar? i.e. is it at the top of the soundbar, bottom of the soundbar, in the middle, near the touch buttons, etc.

i will be placing it in an area where part of the soundbar may be covered slightly and i hope not to cover the remote receiver. thanks
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post #83 of 205 Old 09-01-2010, 08:55 AM
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What is everyone's opinion of the c450?
Has anyone compared it to other in the same class (JVC TH-BA1, Sony CT150 etc)

How are the faux surround effects on the soundbar?
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post #84 of 205 Old 09-04-2010, 06:05 PM
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I have been using this soundbar for a couple days with good results. Much better than the stock TV sound, but of course not close to a real 5.1 system.
Sub is decent, a little muddy and it won't blow your head off, but it shakes my small living room and is loud enough to hear from our upstairs bedroom. Really wish it had a couple more optical inputs, other than that its a huge improvement over the TV. And it helps that the bar its self is beautiful.





Quote:
Originally Posted by JCaelum View Post

thanks

can someone who has this soundbar let me know where the IR receiver for the remote is located on the soundbar? i.e. is it at the top of the soundbar, bottom of the soundbar, in the middle, near the touch buttons, etc.

i will be placing it in an area where part of the soundbar may be covered slightly and i hope not to cover the remote receiver. thanks

I have the bar tucked into a cabinet with a small portion of the top covered and the remote still works. Hope that helps?






Quote:


1) if the soundbar is connected to the TV via optical, the soundbar will turn on automatically if it sense the TV is turned on automatically. Does the TV remote control the volume too, or does that somehow only work on Samsung TVs and no other brands?

Yes, the soundbar will auto turn on and off based off the input. I have a Samsung TV and the TV remote controls the volume. Not sure about a different brand of TV though.
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post #85 of 205 Old 09-06-2010, 11:27 AM
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I have tried everything to get the Tivo remote to control the soundbar volume. Tivo says ask Samsung, Samsung says ask Tivo

Any help?
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post #86 of 205 Old 09-07-2010, 09:52 AM
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I have this sound bar on order. If I have 3 HDMI's plugged into the tv, wouldit be better to run an optical fromthe tv to the C450, or should I run an optical from the HD Cable DVR and PS3 Directly into the soundbar and then my other much less use devices from RCA to the soundbar?

Is there a noticible difference when running all from tv via optical then directly from device into the soundbar?
I've read Davyo's explanation saying he's heard a slight difference on other devices, but for the people that have the C450, have you heard a difference?
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post #87 of 205 Old 09-07-2010, 02:39 PM
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"O",

I have all devices (HDMI) connected to my Samsung TV, then run the optical out to the bar. I did try and run directly to the bar to test, but could not hear any differences.

BTW, on another note, I run everything w/ my Harmony remote and it is great....
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post #88 of 205 Old 09-17-2010, 04:33 PM
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Just picked up a Samsung 40" C6300 for the bedroom and I think I'm going to pick up the C450 to compliment it. I read through this thread and for the most part the all the owners seem to be happy with it. Hopefully i'll have one before the end of the weekend!
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post #89 of 205 Old 09-17-2010, 05:06 PM
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just to give you a very interesting info:

one of the top high tech sites in France just reviewed this bar.....if you don't speak french, let me make it short: they say it sucks !!

http://www.lesnumeriques.com/samsung...2_9579_36.html
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post #90 of 205 Old 09-17-2010, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nenito2k View Post

just to give you a very interesting info:

one of the top high tech sites in France just reviewed this bar.....if you don't speak french, let me make it short: they say it sucks !!

http://www.lesnumeriques.com/samsung...2_9579_36.html

What was there reasoning?
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