The Official JVC TH-BA1 Owners Thread - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 379 Old 08-22-2011, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by davyo View Post

I dont have a PS3 so Im not 100% sure of what the fix to the problem might be.

But yes, bitstream is best (I own the JVC BA1) since you dont have the bitstream option on your PS3 I would say only use the Dolbly 5.1 and the DTS and do not enable anything else (dont use the PCM's) and dont send the JVC a downmixed signal,, just send the JVC raw Dolby and DTS and let the JVC mix the raw signal.

Cheers
Davyo

I won't let me unselect the PCMs though.
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post #362 of 379 Old 08-28-2011, 02:48 AM
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Hi there all, I was kindly referred over to this thread by POSSUMGIRL who valiantly tried to answer my question in another thread but unfortunately I'm still abit lost and need more help. I'm going to go ahead and re-post my original question with some updated additional details along with her response. Just after that I'll ask my new questions and hopefully be able to finally resolve this conundrum (I think I'm starting to sound like a character in David Lynch's Dune movie, inner-monologue and all.. "Questions within questions within questions"..hehe..). +10 bonus points to those who got that reference, although I don't actually know what one could use the points for..haha.. And away..we..go:

Please bear with me as I'm fairly new to this great site and no advanced techie, I just know how to hook up an HDTV to my cable box & videogame consoles w/ HDMI cables and sync my wireless devices to the wireless router..hehe..

*Please note that I haven't received the TV & BD Player as yet but will within the week; I just wanted to get things in order beforehand and have a plan so that I don't have to go micky-mucking about later on*
Individual products, which I'll hereafter refer to as "Components", that will be included:

-an LG INFINIA 55LW5600 55" Full 3D 1080p HDTV LED LCD Television w/ Web Browser and Internet Apps; here's the Input/Outputs:
Side - USB 2.0 x2 & HDMI/HDCP Input x4
Rear Panel - RF In (Antenna/Cable) x1, AV In x2, Component Video In (Y, Pb, Pr) + Audio x2, Digital Audio Out (Optical) x1, RGB In (D-Sub 15pin) - PC x1, PC Audio Input x1, LAN x1, RS-232c In (Control/Service) x1, Headphone Out x1 & Wireless Control x1

-an LG BD670 3D Wireless Network Blu-ray Disc Player w/ Smart TV; here's the Input/Outputs:
Digital Optical Out x1, Audio L/R Out x1, HDMI Out x1, Composite Video Out x1, Component Video Out x1, Digital Coaxial Out x1 & LAN Port (RJ-45) x1

-a JVC TH-BA1 Soundbar system w/ 4.1 channel & Dolby Digital/DTS/Dolby Pro Logic II Decoders, 2 Digital Optical Audio-In ports, 2.4GHz Wireless Subwoofer and an accompanying Mediabridge Toslink Digital Optical Audio Cable (which I'll abbreviate to DOA)

-An Iogear 4-port HDMI Switch Box, the only one I found that also has a remote which comes in very handy, connected to the rear panel of my current HDTV via a single HDMI cable. The switch-box is currently supporting the following 4 components via individual HDMI cables:
-a Comcast 3D-ready HD-DVR
-3 separate gaming consoles: my PS3, Xbox 360 and Nintendo Wii; normally the Wii has no HDMI compatibility but I purchased a 3rd-party VDIGI VD-W3 Upscaler that allows me to use one.

Ok, so here's the scoop: I now know from reading the forums here that the soundbar itself doesn't support an HDMI cable, only the 2 Digital Optical Audio-In ports. As I haven't received the new LG TV & BD Player yet, I'm currently using my soundbar w/ my older TV a Vizio VP504F, which the new LG 3DHDTV will replace. It's connected to the Vizio via the Mediabridge Toslink Optical Digital Audio Cable I bought alongside the soundbar back in Feb '10.

With that in mind, does anyone know if I'll encounter problems connecting the TH-BA1 directly to the new LG set via the optical digital audio cable? Will I lose any sound fidelity? Does the 3D BD Player come into play and make the setup more complicated? If there are potential problems could someone please suggest any work-arounds? I don't want to have to look for a newer soundbar and shell out more $.

POSSUMGIRL's kind response: "Hi Kurt. As you know from reading this thread, the TV will only output 2 ch. stereo from components connected to it. With some soundbars that doesn't matter much, but the TH-BA1 is a true 4.1 soundbar that can process DD5.1 and DTS. There is a dedicated thread here for it and Davyo is our resident expert. He always recommends connecting audio via optical directly to the soundbar so you're only using the video portion of your HDMI connection on the panel.

You didn't mention if you have other components besides the new BD player. Like a cable/sat receiver? You need to use one optical from the TV for your internet streaming apps. So....

Connect the BD player via HDMI to TV, disable HDMI audio-out on the player, and connect optical from player to bar.

If you happen to watch TV OTA, just connect optical from TV to the other optical in on the bar and you're good to go. If however, you have a receiver you've got a choice. Connect it to the TV and settle for 2 ch. stereo out, or consider getting an optical switch to connect both the receiver and TV to the bar."

OK, here's my new list of questions that I hope you'll be able to help me with:
-First off it seems as though I should purchase at least one additional Toslink DOA Cable, right?

-IN GENERAL: What would be the best way to setup my new layout in regards to where all the HDMI and DOA cables should go in order for me to be able to watch TV via the cable box, BD's via the Wireless player and switch between my 3 game consoles via the 4-port HDMI switch?

FYI: If I have to take a hit and lose the option of using a DOA cable on any of my components because there's just not enough connection options for them all to be able go through the soundbar and I'm limited to just the 2 that's built into it, I'd prefer one connected directly to the TV set and the other I'd connect to either the BD Player or the single game console I use the most. When answering please do so with a layman's knowledge in mind and a step-by-step walkthrough would be fantastic, thanks.

-SPECIFIC Q's:
-Since the new BD Player is Wireless and I assume if I can link it to the TV as such without having to use either an HDMI or DOA cable, does it still factor into the mix? Or should I be using a 2nd DOA cable irregardless to link it to one of the 2 available DOA-In ports on the soundbar to get the best sound quality?

-POSSUMGIRL mentioned an option of getting an optical switch - how does it work, where would I connect it to and how would it affect my setup? How many switches can you use at a time, e.g. daisy-chain them somehow, or do they come with a variable amount of ports? I'm assuming since it's a "switch" it works like my HDMI switch-box, possibly sans remote, or am I not conceptualizing it correctly? If when using the switch is it something I'd have to swap/select between manually each time I wanted/needed to change it, depending on which component I'm using at the time?

-On the soundbar's remote I see there's 2 Input buttons, DIGITAL 1 and DIGITAL 2. Since I haven't used a 2nd DOA cable before, does this mean if I have 2 components, say the TV and BD Player w/ each one using its own DOA cable in the soundbar's available DOA Inputs, that I would use those DIGITAL 1-2 Input buttons to be able to use the soundbar in conjunction with whatever particular component I'm using at the moment? Also, what's the DRC button used for on the remote?

I know I'm asking alot of very verbose questions & details and may be repeating myself in some of them, but there just seems to be so many possible options in hooking all my stuff up together and wanting to get the best use of the soundbar with each individual one, if possible. I'm most likely over-analyzing this whole thing but I'm just silly that way. It's a wonder I haven't fried all my brain cells just writing this whole epic saga...hehe... At any rate, any help I can get would be very much appreciated and would like to thank you in advance for the time spent on answering.

Very best,

Kurt
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post #363 of 379 Old 08-28-2011, 04:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Kurt

Wow, that was a long post,, so many questions I got kinda lost,,, not your fault,, my fault,, I have a short attention span.

I will give a quickie reply in hopes of answering some of your questions.

Yes,,, it way better to hook your BD player directly to the BA1 via optical and set your BD player to output a un-mixed "bitstream" feed,, use the other optical input on the BA1 for the next most important'est audio source, then hook the rest of your stuff to your panel any way you can or want and just use the RCA out from your panel to the RCA input of the BA1.

I think (but Im not 100% sure) that might be of some help.

Sorry if that was of no help though,,,,, Im sure others on here have a longer attention span than I,,,,

Cheers
Davyo
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post #364 of 379 Old 08-28-2011, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VermithraxDagon View Post

I'm most likely over-analyzing this whole thing ..........

Glad to see you found your way over to this thread. IMHO you are over-thinking it a bit.

I wouldn't have suggested an optical switch if you'd mentioned the HDMI switch that you already use. Just connect it to the new TV exactly like you use it now with Toslink from TV to soundbar. It's going to sound exactly the same as what you've been hearing. Plus you have audio out for your net apps if you use them on the TV rather than on the BD player.

As already suggested, connect the new BD player via HDMI to the panel and also connect it via Toslink to the soundbar. On the player, disable HDMI audio-out and enable bitstream output.

Over in the blu-ray players section of AVS there's a master thread for the LG BD6xx players. Not trying to get rid of you , but that would be a good place to get answers regarding player connections.
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post #365 of 379 Old 08-29-2011, 01:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Possumgirl View Post

Glad to see you found your way over to this thread. IMHO you are over-thinking it a bit.

I wouldn't have suggested an optical switch if you'd mentioned the HDMI switch that you already use. Just connect it to the new TV exactly like you use it now with Toslink from TV to soundbar. It's going to sound exactly the same as what you've been hearing. Plus you have audio out for your net apps if you use them on the TV rather than on the BD player.

As already suggested, connect the new BD player via HDMI to the panel and also connect it via Toslink to the soundbar. On the player, disable HDMI audio-out and enable bitstream output.

Over in the blu-ray players section of AVS there's a master thread for the LG BD6xx players. Not trying to get rid of you , but that would be a good place to get answers regarding player connections.

Thank you both for the great info, it did help me alot! Here's an update: When I went over to Monoprice.com to get another TOSlink cable and did alot of reading customer reviews which led me to re-think my original plan and get some extra upgraded purchases that I hope will work out better. Lemme know whatcha think:

1) a 4x2 TOSlink Selector Switch w/ Remote (got that from Amazon because I couldn't find a comparable one on Monoprice)
2) a 4X1 HDMI 1.3b Certified Selector Switch w/ TOSlink & Digital Coaxial Port (Rev.2) w/ 3D support (replaces the inferior IOGear version)
3) 10' Premium Optical TOSLink Cables x5
4) 8' 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cables w/ Net Jacket x6
5) TOSlink Audio Adapter for my Xbox 360 Elite (Slim) (I read that the newer versions of the 360 won't play nice w/ reg TOSlink cables)

So basically the new audio plan is to be able to use the TOSlink Selector to connect the corresponding cables to each of my devices individually (PS3, Xbox 360 Elite, the LG 3D Wireless BD Player & 3D TV, all routed now through the JVC Soundbar via the selector ports). This way I figure I can now get the best sound out of all of them, using the selector to switch between them depending on what I'm using at the time. At least that's what I'm hoping for..hehe..

Then for video I'll also connect each one (except for the Wireless BD Player) via the HDMI cables to the other new HDMI Selector. And voila! I have my optimum setup. Well, at least I think it will solve my issues - unless I messed up by not thinking the whole thing through correctly (which I'm hoping you'd be able to let me know if I did). I know I may ultimately end up with an extra cable or two, but I'd rather have them than finding out I'd have to buy more.

Any feedback for my new uber-plan would be great and again, I appreciate all the help!!
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post #366 of 379 Old 08-29-2011, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by VermithraxDagon View Post

Any feedback for my new uber-plan would be great and again, I appreciate all the help!!

Did you stay up all night figuring that out? I had to read through it a couple times to keep track of all the connections.

Quote:


So basically the new audio plan is to be able to use the TOSlink Selector to connect the corresponding cables to each of my devices individually (PS3, Xbox 360 Elite, the LG 3D Wireless BD Player & 3D TV, all routed now through the JVC Soundbar via the selector ports).

If (and that's a big if) I followed your plan, you don't intend to have an audio connection out from the TV because where you said "3D TV" I assume you meant your Comcast receiver? Won't be an issue if you only use internet apps from the BD player and not from the TV.

My bigger question though is where are you connecting the VIDEO for the BD player? I get the impression you think it doesn't need a physical connection to the HDTV. It does. Since you don't have the player yet, you could download the owner's manual in PDF and brush up on the connections and capabilities.

Good luck keeping track of all your connections/switches. I'm glad it's you, not me.

EDIT: Thought about this some more and looked up the new switches you'll be using. Since you're okay with using two switches, here's one possible connection scheme that's pretty close to what you outlined.

To the HDMI switch, connect Comcast box, BD player, PS3 & Xbox, then HDMI-out to your HDTV. From each of those four components, connect optical out to the optical switch. This assumes that the audio settings for each component gives you the option of directing audio to optical out. Then connect optical from one of the switch's outputs to one of the optical inputs on the JVC bar. This still leaves you with one available optical input on the JVC. Connect optical from your HDTV to that input. If you're still going to use the Wii, connect it to the HDTV either by your HDMI thingy, or the usual component+L/R. You'll have audio from the Wii and from the TV's net apps going to the JVC.

Once you have everything hooked up, you better come back and let us know how it's working out!!!
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post #367 of 379 Old 08-31-2011, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Possumgirl View Post

Did you stay up all night figuring that out? I had to read through it a couple times to keep track of all the connections.

EDIT: Thought about this some more and looked up the new switches you'll be using. Since you're okay with using two switches, here's one possible connection scheme that's pretty close to what you outlined.

To the HDMI switch, connect Comcast box, BD player, PS3 & Xbox, then HDMI-out to your HDTV. From each of those four components, connect optical out to the optical switch. This assumes that the audio settings for each component gives you the option of directing audio to optical out. Then connect optical from one of the switch's outputs to one of the optical inputs on the JVC bar. This still leaves you with one available optical input on the JVC. Connect optical from your HDTV to that input. If you're still going to use the Wii, connect it to the HDTV either by your HDMI thingy, or the usual component+L/R. You'll have audio from the Wii and from the TV's net apps going to the JVC.

Once you have everything hooked up, you better come back and let us know how it's working out!!!

Hi Possumgirl, your edit is pretty much exactly the way I was envisioning my new setup (sans the new Wireless 3D Blu-Ray player). In regards to connecting the BD player physically via an HDMI cable, I think you're right. I wasn't really thinking it required one since the player was featured as being "Wireless". I thought that I could play my physical BDs (3D or not) and the movie would be wirelessly transmitted directly to the new internet/wi-fi ready HDTV. After viewing your very helpful reply, I re-read the BD player's bullet-points (here's the link: http://www.lg.com/us/tv-audio-video/...ayer-BD670.jsp ) under the "Features" & "Specifications" tabs and realized it does require a physical HDMI connection, whether it's connected directly to the HDMI ports found on the HDTV or a selector box.

I realized it when I read on the Features tab the bullet-point "Wi-FiĀ® Capable - Less clutter. More possibilities. Cut loose from messy wires. Integrated Wi-Fi Connectivity allows you take advantage of Internet Entertainment Access from any available Wi-Fi connection, anywhere in its range." In particular I noted the "...allows you take advantage of Internet Entertainment Access from any available Wi-Fi connection..." and realized that it really referred to playing apps like Netflix, etc. wirelessly but NOT actual BDs. No question I'm still keeping the BD player, I just thought it worked abit differently than I imagined... silly wabbit!

No biggie, it only means I have just 1 more hook-up added to the list and I'll probably end up using one of the HDTV's 4 HDMI ports to connect it to the BD player (w/ the Xbox, PS3, Wii and Comcast cable box hooked through the HDMI selector). That'll still leave me with 2 free HDMI ports on the HDTV for any other wacky new-fangled contraption I need to connect. Hmmm, why does it seem as though I'm playing a game of Mouse Trap: HDTV Version?..hehe..

Had to order a new 3D-capable cable box through Comcast to swap out with my current one and it, along w/ the HDTV should be delivered by next week. Thanks again so very much for all the helpful input and I'll be sure to post a follow-up on how it all comes together Best,

Kurt
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post #368 of 379 Old 09-05-2011, 09:09 PM
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OK, this is probably one of those questions where the answer is so simple but I'm still scratching my head on how it works..haha... but here goes...

My remote for the JVC TH-BA1 is out of juice and I'm having so much difficulty trying to open the lithium battery compartment on the lower rear of the remote in order to replace it There's nothing on the owner's instructions re: the remote's compartment lid itself except for a simple & general excerpt under Troubleshooting telling you to change the battery if it's been exhausted.

I try opening the lid by pressing in the spring-loaded grooved part and then, while the grooved section is still pressed, lifting the lid up horizontally. There's also a very small rectangular indented groove on the top of the compartment lid and I've tried using that to open it vertically as well. Both methods just won't work for me... grrrrr And I'm even more frustrated with myself for not being able to accomplish such a seemingly mundane & simple procedure

Any help would be very much appreciated and thanks in advance Best,

Kurt
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post #369 of 379 Old 09-15-2011, 01:40 AM
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just picked up a refurb on eBay for $220 hope thats a good deal, bought solely on the fact that this ONE sound bar has 200+ responses on its thread...
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post #370 of 379 Old 09-15-2011, 06:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilovegoodnugz View Post

just picked up a refurb on eBay for $220 hope thats a good deal, bought solely on the fact that this ONE sound bar has 200+ responses on its thread...

The BA1 gets alot of well deserved love.

Make sure to set your BluRay to output "bitstream audio".

Cheers
Davyo
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post #371 of 379 Old 09-19-2011, 04:15 PM
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So I have a question, I have the following XBOX 360 with optical adapter, XBMC HTPC w/optical and HDMI, Comcast DCT-3400 DVR, and a Wii with a Sharp 60LE830U. What is the most efficient way to connect these to the two optical and one analogue connection on the BA1. I know if I do Optical out from TV there will only be 2 channels so I am looking for the best 2 optical connections to connect to the soundbar and the rest will be analogue.

I am thinking HTPC, XBOX 360 direct to BA1 and DVR/Wii to TV to BA1 analogue. Does the comcast sound like crap passing through a TV, I use it the most but I would want the most awesome sound coming from movies watched on HTPC and games on the XBOX 360.

Also if I have all "legally" ripped Blu-Rays that are not DRM encoded couldn't XBMC passthrough the 5.1 through the TV? If so then I could connect it VIA HDMI to TV and then optical it through the TV.
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post #372 of 379 Old 09-26-2011, 11:41 AM
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I noticed that JVC no longer sells this item directly and most stores have it listed as "discontinued." Basically I can only find it on Fry's or Amazon marketplace resellers. I like the idea of the ability to adjust the center channel myself like I would on a 5.1 system.

I also like that this one reviewed well for music as well, which I noticed many other bars have not.

Two things have me hesitant. One is the fact that this is discontinued. Second, is the heigh of the bar at 4.9 inches. I am worried that may block my tv sensor. I have a Sharp 37" Aquos LCD that is on a stand, not mounted.

Does nayone have any input? Thanks.
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post #373 of 379 Old 02-04-2012, 10:36 PM
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I bought this unit a while ago and my past post was to complain about hearing sound from only three of the speakers in the bar.

Well, I got that fixed. Local shop disassembled the unit and found that one of the speakers was not connected, i.e, wire to that driver was not connected. So, for those who posted they thought they weren't hearing all four speakers...check it out.

Now I've purchased a Sony S380 BD player, but it doesn't have an optical out, only analog and digital coax.

Currently, my BD is conncted via HDMI to the TV and then TV to BA-1 via optical.

Would I hear a difference in sound if I bought a digital coax to optical converter like this?
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post #374 of 379 Old 12-05-2012, 10:29 PM
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Hello everyone. Newbie here.
i recently discovered this forum and must say that i'm impressed.
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post #375 of 379 Old 12-05-2012, 10:29 PM
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Hello everyone. Newbie here.
i recently discovered this forum and must say that i'm impressed.
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post #376 of 379 Old 12-05-2012, 10:29 PM
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Hello everyone. Newbie here.
i recently discovered this forum and must say that i'm impressed.
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post #377 of 379 Old 12-05-2012, 11:04 PM
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Sorry for the repeated posts everyone, Operator error
.
After considerable study of this site for the past couple of days i decided on the JVC TH BA1 only to discover its no longer available.
Then i found the BA10 on the JVC website and compared it with the BA1. Apparently, they are the same 4 channel bars except for that the BA10 has no sub or sub out. BUMMER!!! My plan B was to use the BA10 with a Velvodyne 10" sub i still have around from a previous system.
I'm trying to achieve as close to surround sound as possible with a sound bar. The BA1 was a stretch budjet wise but it sounded so good.

Anyone have any suggestions? T
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post #378 of 379 Old 12-06-2012, 02:39 PM
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Recently purchase a Panasonic soundbar (their cheapest) and have been impressed with the surround effects. It is 2.1 (like almost everything else currently available).

Took a couple of days to trim this in correctly as the sub level was set way too high from the factory. Nowhere nearly as tight and fast in the bass regions as the JVC, but dialog and even music are quite good. Currently my JVC is in a corner in the bedroom as I mull over all of the pluses and minuses for each.

David Freeman
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post #379 of 379 Old 12-08-2012, 11:25 AM
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I just got my JVC-BA1 hooked it up and I love it. And check this out I picked it up on ebay for 50 bucks total including shipping. awesome deal.
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